September 2007 archives

French Butter

Bordier Butter

Although you can get a good amount of excellent food in the US, the one thing that I haven’t found an equal to is French butter. In my life, I’m probably responsible for a couple of tons of butter being baked, melted, sautéed, rolled, crumbled, cubed, smeared and creamed.

When I arrived in NY late last evening, I made a beeline to Whole Foods to stock up on provisions for the week since they’re open late (I love America!) But after a search that involved engaging the entire cheese department in a discussion of butter, the conclusion was that they only had regular American butter and fancy European imports.

And I didn’t come all the way back to the states to eat French butter.

It wasn’t until I moved to France and tasted the sunshine-yellow butter that’s easily available at most fromagers and even in the supermarket, that I noticed a remarkable difference. And I’ve become rather picky and for eating on my morning toast or melted over vegetables—I’m at the point now where I’ll only let the butter from Jean-Yves Bordier cross my lips. I know I sounds like an insufferable snob (more than I normally do), but like chocolate, if you’re going to eat it, you may as well eat the best since the good stuff has the same amount of calories as the crappy stuff.

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The Man-Purse

A French friend asked me recently, “David, do I look gay?”

Le Man Purse

Without a second of hesitation, I replied, “Yes, absolutely.”

“Why?” he said.

“Well, for one thing,” I told him, “You’re French—which makes you suspect. Another is that you’re wearing a pink polo shirt. You also answer your emails quickly and you spend an inordinate amount of time worrying about your hair.”

“And you have a nice butt,” I added for good measure, perhaps because he’s a rugby player.

So how does one tell the difference between a man who’s European or one who’s gay?

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Banana Bread, or Banana Cake

Banana Bread/Banana Cake

Can someone could explain to me what the difference between Banana Bread and Banana Cake is? I’ve been wracking my brain trying to come up with an explanation, any explanation…and I just can’t think of one. If you presume that because Banana ‘Bread’ is made in a loaf pan, whereas a cake is usually baked in a round pan—by that same logic, Pound Cake would be Pound Bread, which doesn’t sound quite as inviting. So you’re going to have to try harder.

Take muffins, for example. It’s funny when people eat a muffin thinking they’re being so ‘healthy’. The word ‘muffin’ is just the Latin derivative of ‘deceptive baked-good’. (Go ahead…look it up.) Swapping oil for butter, which often happens in muffins is fine, but you’re not fooling anyone, folks.

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Salonenque Olives

Olives

Flavored with crushed branches of fennel, these avocado-green olives are harvested very early and only available for an extremely short time. I’ve been anticipating them ever since Jacques, my favorite olive merchant, started getting excited when he told me about their arrival a few weeks back. So I knew they’d be special.

(If someone who’s been selling olives for twenty-plus years is still excited about a specific olive, believe me, I pay attention.)

Les olives Salonenques are very fresh with a firm, meaty texture and a whiff of aromatic fennel. But these Provencal olives don’t last long, which is why you won’t likely find them outside of France. Jacques will ladle some into a sack, weight them, then add extra liquid to guard against them discoloring, which they do quickly because of their freshness.

You’ll need to eat them relatively soon after you buy them. So get ‘em while you can.

And since I can get ‘em, believe me, I’m eating as many as I can before they’re gone.

Le Soleil Provencal
Richard Lenoir/Bastille Market
Thursday and Sunday
Jacques’ stand is at the center, on the east side, near Le Préau café

(He’s often at the Maubert-Mutualité market in Paris as well.)

Get-Together at City Bakery in New York City

Next week I’ll be in New York City and there’s going to be a get-together and booksigning at The City Bakery, home of the fabulous pretzel croissant. It’ll be a chance to meet and greet. So if you live in the area, or feel like you need an excuse to visit New York next weekend, stop by for a visit!

2005_01_food_city_bakery.jpg

The event will be next Sunday, September 30th, from 3-4:30pm.

The kind folks at Baileys have offered sippin’ samples as well.
(While it lasts…better get there before I do…)

This will be my only US visit this fall so if you’ve been waiting for your chance to meet up or get your book signed, come visit me upstairs at The City Bakery next weekend.

I’m looking forward to the get-together!

The City Bakery
3 West 18th Street
Near Union Square
(Map)

(Big thanks to Maury Rubin for offering space for the event and making books available on short notice.)

Why Think, When I Can Link?

I wonder if they do this in any Parisian cafes?

The Masters of Chocolate descend on my city…

…but I am telling you that I am not going.

What the heck is couverture?

Who said cake decorating is boring?

The 5 most expensive chocolates in the world.
(via WTTF)

Marsha, Marsha..ooh..Marshaaaaa…!!

Meet The Meat We Eat.

Holy bikeshorts, Laura!

Step-by-step guide to mastering gorgeous, buttery French tart dough.

My dinner with Heather.
(And what happens when you send food back around here…)

A new museum in Paris to add to my (huge) list.

Sounds like Café Attitude to me.
(Update: A nice apology!)

Good move, Darrell.

As if we need another reason to love Barry Manilow.

Error message requestgranted!

Best bakeries in Paris?

Somehow I don’t think this is gonna catch on in France

Life in Iran, from an American woman’s perspective.

Lorenzo’s yet another reason to buy top-quality Umbrian olive oil.

Fine French butter, available stateside.

The unhappier you are…the more ice cream you get.
(Via AG)

Sounds good to me!

Paris x 3

Parisian Etiquette

When I go back to the states, one of the questions I’m most-commonly asked is—”Aren’t Parisians rude?

I recently got in my elevator and this was posted:

bonjourexcuseznous.jpg

It’s a notice that my neighbor is having her birthday party and to please excuse her in advance of any noise that may be a nuisance. I’ve been told some newcomers see these posted and incorrectly assume that it’s an invitation to all in the building to stop by. So read carefully.

If you’ve ever been on the receiving end of the French ‘stare’ you know that’s because French people talk rather softly in public places and it’s considered rude to impose your conversation on others. Unfortunately that politesse don’t carry over to cigarette smoke. Yet.

But I think letting your neighbors know your having a fête is a nice, not very rude gesture, so you can plan accordingly with an Ambien or whatever.

Continue Reading Paris x 3…

And Here’s To You, Mrs. Roberts Son

When Adam asked me to host him on his book tour through cyberspace, the first thing that went through my mind was—“Adam Roberts? Who cares about him?”

Especially when his mom pals around with the big boys…

momandbenaffleck.jpg
Mrs. Roberts and Ben Affleck

My goodness, if Adam pops up one more time in my RSS feeder, I’m going to bop him in that big old schnozola of his. Well, that’s not true. One of the highlights of my days (and nights) is when Adam posts to his fabulous blog, The Amateur Gourmet.

And for those of us who can’t get enough of him popping up in our In boxes and blog feeders, he just released his first book: The Amateur Gourmet: How to Shop, Chop, and Table Hop like a Pro (Almost), so you can keep Adam in your kitchen, bring him into your bedroom and even take him in the loo with you.

But until I get a restraining order, I’m going to remain his mom, Mrs. Roberts, biggest fan. And I’m so in awe of her that she was featured in The Perfect Scoop (page 73).

Ben had to go shave before leaving to meet his pal Matt, but Mrs. Roberts agreed to stick around and answer my questions. Believe me, even without Ben around, I felt like I’d died and gone to nice-Jewish boy heaven…oy gevalt!

momjlopuff.jpg
…with J. Lo and Puff Daddy…

Q: When Adam tossed aside his promising career as a lawyer and came out to you, as a budding gourmand, what was your first reaction?

Mrs. Roberts: “WHAT?!”

That as my first reaction. But then my reaction was that I thought it was great. He’s very creative, a very creative person, and he likes to write. He found an avenue to write and be creative so I was happy.

Q: Boy, my mother was ready to brain me when I tossed aside my promising career as a neurosurgeon to bake cookies. No wonder all those celebrities want to be seen with you.

Continue Reading And Here’s To You, Mrs. Roberts Son…