One of the best restaurants in Paris is one that I have a hard time recommending.
It’s not that the food isn’t consistently very good-to-excellent. Nor is the service anything less than friendly and sincere.
One problem with L’Entredgeu is that it’s way up in the 17th, pretty much away from everything else. That’s relatively minor, though. The big problem for me is the name; it’s almost impossible for me to pronounce—although my French friends have a bit of difficulty with it as well, so I don’t feel quite so lame.
In spite of those two minor flaws, I’ve never not enjoyed myself, and the food, at L’Entredgeu.
A recent meal began with an Assiette de Jambon “des 3 fermes” condiments au vinaigre, which was a plate of nicely-sliced country hams and a little dish of pickles. The Ballontines de caille (quail) au fois gras with a preserved quail leg was nicely-done and almost too refined for such a humble joint. But the best was the Pimentos del piquillos, peppers stuffed with salt cod, which reflected the slight Basque influence of L’Entredgeu.
My main course was a Poule farci aux pieds de cochon et foie gras (two fois gras dishes!) But other menu options were Colvert rôti, roasted wild duck (an added bonus is I always add a few new words to my vocabulary at L’Entredgeu too…’colvert‘ is wild duck, fyi), Filet de canette jus miel, duckling with honey sauce (it must be duck-week here on the blog), and a nice slab of beef, which you see above, served on a disk of creamy macaroni gratin.
All was accompanied by a truly serviceable bottle of Sauternes (23€) that was so crisp and bright that I wished I’d ordered the oysters that most of the other tables were having. Next time.
So in spite of the name, and location, L’Entredgeu seems to be thriving and is always packed. The dining room can be a bit cramped, which is part of the charm. The fixed-price menu at 30€ is a real bargain for food this good, and well-prepared, and L’Entredgeu is far better, in my opinion, than most of the other ‘bargain bistros’ of Paris. And there will be a next time.
83, rue Laugier
Tél: 01 40 54 97 24
M: Porte de Champerret