¡Hola, Mil Amores Tortilleria!

tortillas with french butter

So we’ve had the first bean-to-bar chocolate maker open in Paris. And now we have homemade tortillas. Or as I call them, “Two more reasons to stay put.” Which also means I can give the valuable luggage space I was devoting to lugging corn tortillas back from the states to something else – like pecans and memory foam slippers.

tortillas at Mil Amores tortilla chips

Opened by a team that includes Luis Rendon who makes that great Mexican fare at Candelaria, they’ve pieced together what they told me was the first (and only) tortilla maker in Europe*. And now, Mil Amores Tortilleria is running at full speed, filling orders for those of us who have been patiently waiting ever since they started sending cryptic notes about their opening.

Heading over there on a Saturday afternoon, I’ll admit when I walked in, that I got more than a little excited when I saw the tortillas cut into triangles. (And wondered how fast I could race home and pound out a batch of guacamole.) I asked if they were going to sell them already fried, and they told me that people actually preferred to get them uncooked and do it themselves. I’m not big on deep-frying at home, so am hoping they’ll share the names of some of the restaurants that do. Or that someone will step forward with a deep-fryer and have a chips and salsa (and margarita) fiesta en casa.

Mil Amores

If you’ve ever scratched your head over some of the less-than-authentic Mexican food in Paris, you’ll be happy to hear they’ve already had a ton of restaurants putting in orders. But anyone can order fresh tortillas, no matter who you are. Even if it’s just one of you. If you live in Paris, you can pick them up on Saturday afternoon, or they’ll sous-vide them and express mail tortillas to other parts of the city and metropolitan France.

tortillas at Mil Amores tortillas at Mil Amores

They are rolling out fresh corn tortillas in two sizes (14 and 16 cm, for €10/kg), and you can choose from either white or yellow corn tortillas. (Blue will be coming.) They’re gluten-free, so for folks who can’t eat bread, perhaps we’ll be seeing warm tortillas being offered in lieu of bread baskets around town? And I can certainly imagine some grated Mimolette or Comté cheese being melted over the top for a little afternoon goûter at home.

tortillas at Mil Amores

I asked about their capacity and they said they can pump out 22 kilos (48 pounds) of tortillas an hour and each kilo makes 50 tortillas, so I’m getting ready to test that with my next order. And on my way out, they gave me paper-wrapped stack of tortillas, which I had a little trouble getting home. It wasn’t because they weren’t wrapped well enough, but I really was looking forward to racing home to try one.

tortillas at Mil Amores

Once inside, I heated up my cast-iron skillet and give them a quick once over on each side, then dropped a few pats of French salted butter on top. I waited a moment for them to start melting, then I dug in. It was a pretty great combination and I hope the partnership is long and fruitful.

…Coq au vin enchiladas? …Duck confit tacos? …Quesadillas de poulet rôti ?

tortillas at Mil Amores

Mil Amores Tortilleria



Related Links and Recipes

Mexican Restaurants in Paris

Paris Tacos y Burritos

Mexican Hot Chocolate

Atole

Carnitas

Chili with Chocolate



*UPDATE: A few European readers mentioned tortilla-makers in a couple of other European countries, which you can find by scrolling down in the comments.

87 comments

  • Nothing is better than fresh-fried tortilla chips made from fresh tortillas. Literally, nothing. You’ve got me hungry just looking at the pics :)

  • cassoulet enchiladas!

  • This might be the best news I’ve heard all year! Thank you! Oh, and I happen to have a deep-fryer…

  • Oh man! Hot, fresh corn tortillas and a pat of salted butter? Nothing could be finer! I’d hate to live near that place because I’m sure the smell is unbearable, in a totally wonderful way. And David, can’t you bake the uncooked tortilla chips? Perhaps with a different (less wonderful) outcome than deep frying, but in a pinch?

  • Oh how I longed for this while living back in Paris in 2002/2004 I kept saying, someone would make a killing if they opened up a real Mexican joint in Paris, and the first step was making these tortillas. Happy for those that are there and are missing their tortillas :)

  • We felt like we were entering a speakeasy when we went to pick up our tortillas in person, but Erika and Co are super-friendly and the tortillas were terrific. They have a Facebook page now, and take advance orders via their website. We’ll definitely be ordering from them again!

  • One more reason to come stay for another extended period. I can imagine the most delicious quesadillas. You should seek out some Armenian string cheese to replace Quesillo. Other amazing options could be a nice Beaufort or a Cantal for that perfect enchilada taste.

  • This makes me so happy.

  • I lugged a tortilla press here and bribe people to bring me maseca….OMG, they will ship these all over France … can’t wait to test that out…miam miam miam

  • Duck confit tacos are actually pretty awesome!

    More than a tortilleria, I wish we could buy fresh masa here in Boston as I’ve always wanted to make them at home. Allegedly ones made with masa harina (which I have done many times) aren’t even in the same ballpark, but I wouldn’t know living in that hotbed of Mexican cuisine that is New England.

  • There is a wonderful mexican restaurant just outside of LA in Eagle Rock called Cacao Mexicatessen that does a super yummy duck confit taco. Greasy and delicious!

  • Hooray!!! Best news of the week and boy do they look delicious!

  • Oh oh oh will they ship to the uk? I buy masa hariña and make my own, but would like to avoid spending hours (literally) like I did the other week making 50 odd for a dinner party! And London is *nearer* to Paris than a lot of metropolitan France!

  • Oh how I wish they would make chips. And salsa. Please, Mil Amores Tortilleria! I really don’t like frying in house.

  • How about quickly sautéed tortillas in some olive oil (just till they get crispy) and then sprinkled with granulated sugar and cinnamon? Yum!

  • Growing up in Mexico City, there was a tortilleria down the street from where we lived and one of my favorite memories as a child is my mom arriving with a stack of piping hot tortillas wrapped in paper – she would take one, slather it with butter and a sprinkling of salt, roll it up, and give it to us as we waited for lunch to be ready.

  • These are amazing news!!! They look really good that I would fly there to try theme! I’m mexican and that looks like an authentical tortilla. I can even smell them! LOL. Really, if you are in Paris, go and eat some 3 kilos of tortilla with arrachera o home made pastor!

    This is the NEW BIG THING in Paris for mexicans and mexican food lovers!

  • Mario: I love them too. The ones I ate (at the top) I heated and ate with butter, and they were so good! But I usually just pop them on top of the gas burner, warm them on both sides and do the butter and salt thing – although salted butter multitasks here!

    Hazel: At present, they are only shipping to France but check their website as perhaps that will change. I have a hunch they are probably going to expand but, as you know, shipping charges are often substantial so that is often a roadblock. They send everything Colissimo in France which has fixed charges, so folks can calculate the price easily.

    Claire: I probably could bake some, and will. But I was just so excited to get these that I ate them as shown. I do think deep-fried are the best, though ; )

    Denise: Unfortunately there are a number of complications with deep-frying (and cooking) in Paris as a business and they likely have to comply with a number of tricky laws, paperwork, etc. so I don’t know if the have plans to do that in the future. But wouldn’t that be nice?

  • This may be the best news of 2013. I make my own flour ones at home (and smuggle uncooked corn ones whenever I go home to the US) but this is great for last minute when you don’t feel like rolling our 50 of them for a taco party.

  • Oh my, there is nothing like a fresh corn tortilla, love your buttery version. Growing up we used to visit a ranch in a remote section of Mexico. Every morning the neighbor would bring us a basket of warm, homemade corn tortillas… they were ethereal with their sweet corn goodness and there was always a thin separate layer that I presume came when they puffed up a bit during cooking… I can still smell them!!

  • I live in CA, where good Mexican cuisine is in abundance and I still prefer to home fry my own chips from tortillas. And I have never used a deep fryer to do it – just a deep pan with a few inches of peanut oil in it works just fine (although you do have to work in batches – it is worth it!).

  • Not to be a wet blanket here, but that price! $5.85 per pound?!? ¡Dios mio!

    BTW, the best way to end-run the need for deep-frying corn tortillas is to spray them with flavorless veg oil spray (grapeseed is by far the best, if you can find it – steer clear of canola, as it takes on a fishy taste in this application) on both sides, cut into the desired number of pieces, and bake on a lined sheet (I use foil, but Silpat works great, of course) at 450F for about 20 minutes, tossing occasionally. Bake at a lower temp for a shorter period of time for superlative soft taco shells – I use 350F for four-five minutes on each side. ¡Buen provecho!

    • I buy cornmeal at my local natural foods store and I think it’s about €2-3 per 500g (about 1 pound), so I don’t find the prices out of line. Things are a lot more expensive in Paris (rent, social charges, expenses, shipping) which I think accounts for the higher prices in general here. I’ve gotten used to paying more than I used to pay for things in the states, but I’m just happy to have homemade tortillas!

  • To the person asking about tortillas in London, have you tried the ones at Taqueria? (http://www.taqueria.co.uk/) Being from California myself, these are the best I’ve had in Europe. They’re made and sold in the shop, also online (http://www.coolchile.co.uk/products/view/soft-corn-tortillas-x-13) and at some Whole Foods locations here in London. If you haven’t tried the restaurant, do yourself a favour. They make the best chilaquiles and huevos rancheros I’ve had, on par with Mission style Mexican in San Francisco.

  • Wow I always wanted to have fresh homemade tortillas!

  • I worked at an authentic taco cart this summer and I realized how much of a shame it is to eat less than stellar Mexican food. Candelaria was my go to in Paris for authentic tacos with interesting flavors. I’m glad to see they are expanding! After my summer at the taco cart, I can’t get enough tacos.

    The best day was when we worked a festival with a bunch of well, older folks, who were not too interested in tacos. Gave me more time to talk to the customers we did want tacos and also to eat tacos myself. God I love tacos.

    A wonderful combination we found was braised beef tongue with guacamole, red salsa, and onions and cilantro. Perfect.

  • I never tasted fresh tortillas. They seem lighter than the ones we buy in supermarket … I WANT GUACAMOLE RIGHT NOW !!

  • How very exciting! I also don’t like deep-frying, so when I make tacos (I make New Mexico style tacos with ground beef and potatoes), I lightly pan-fry the corn tortillas over medium heat with a touch of oil.

  • Just placed an order for both tortillas and chips! After enough time in Europe I learned to make my own tortillas at home using precooked cornmeal, a rolling pin, and a lot of muscle. If these are any good I might put off importing a tortilla press from the States….

  • I was just wondering if the tortillas were made of non-GMO corn, took a close look at their sticker which specifies “sans OGM”. Bravo! You have a loyal customer! ¡Mil amores a Uds también!

  • Growing up back in Arizona near the border with Mexico, I practically lived off tortillas. When I moved to Colombia and found out they don’t make them in South America I about cried. Now I’m addicted to their version though, an arepa which is thicker and occasionally cut opened and stuffed like pita bread.

  • Strangely i’m in the Mexico City Airport right now and cannot find any tortillas. I’ve been wanting a breakfast burrito all day and apparently that is just not a thing here. There are however a lot of ham and cheese sandwiches and cheesecake. How sad to be lusting over tortillas in France when I’m in the middle of Mexico. Then again I guess airports tend to be poor representations of the national cuisine….

  • Um. With your pork carnita recipe…

  • David – you can bake your chips if you don’t want to deep fry them. They come out crispy and tasty and none of the fry mess. Just spritz a wee bit of oil on them, sprinkle with salt, and bake in the oven until they’re crisp. You can skip the spritz of oil if you don’t care about the chips being salted. With really great corn tortillas, you won’t miss the salt – especially if you have some guacamole to dip the chips into.

    • Thanks – they actually sell perforated sheets for making “microwave chips” in France. I have tried those either but may give baked chips a go as you, and a few others, have mentioned. I ordered another kilo of tortillas for next week!

  • Oops. Just read the comments and saw that mine was redundant.

    Thank you for sharing your excitement about the tortillas. Having grown up in Arizona and living in California, tortillas are an important part of my diet. I totally understand your excitement. Hmmmm, freshly made, warm tortillas are the best.

  • Can these tortillas be frozen?

  • Gah! Lucky. We are still waiting in Rome.

  • Same question as @Natasha, wondering about being able to freeze these?

  • Natasha and Marlowe: Yes, tortillas can be frozen. Mil Amores packs them sous-vide from transit by mail, which makes freezing them easier. (They will likely sous-vide for you in-person, if you ask.)

  • Thanks, David.

  • Ordered! Roll on Saturday!

  • I don’t think I’ve ever had a corn tortilla other than those supplied by the Old El Paso company! Do they have plans to open up in London?

    Talking of which, try Marks and Spencer, now they have returned to Paris, for memory-foam slippers! They certainly do them in their UK stores and very comfortable they are, too!

  • Great news, David! My corn tortilla addiction dates back to the early 70′s and living in Honduras has been the pinnacle of expat life for me. I hope to tour the Maseca plant with a neighbor (the Mexican Consul) soon. My friends and coworkers here think I’m nuts, but I can just imagine the corn aroma in that place and walking away with a bag of fresh milled corn meal has me all kinds of giddy.

  • Oh wow, yet another reason to visit Paris. I’ve made fresh tortillas from my own fresh masa cooked from the hominy corn. What a palaver! (http://marmitelover.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/masa-harina-tortillas-from-scratch.ht)
    (At that time I didn’t have use of a vitamix to get the corn really finely ground so I must have another go)
    I remember Mexican food in Paris was a bit dodgy, it’s not much better here in London. I’m always so disappointed when they don’t bother to make their own tortillas, so this is great news.

  • woaw….. photos to die for! Grumbling stomach; as if I hadn’t eaten only a short while ago… grazias!

  • As a “previous- previous- ex- pat- ex-pat” (as I flitter here and yon) I feel your joy! Those chips with the Spicy Chipotle Hummus…

  • Fantastico! And with fresh masa (assuming they will sell it uncooked), you can make real tamales too. Chilaquiles are my weakness, but there’s nothing quite like fresh fried tostadas with guacamole and a cold beer.

    • Am not sure if they plan to sell the masa but you can buy masa harina – and a few other Mexican products – at Boca Mexa on the rue Mouffetard. (Their address is located in the list of Mexican places in Paris, at the end of the post.) They have pretty good burritos – and if you ask for salsa on it, beware as their hottest salsa is very, very hot. I went with an American friend and we both went for it, in spite of their warnings, and we were on fire! : 0

  • Nothing beats hot fresh tortilla. I’m craving for tacos right now. :D

  • Oh dear, I thought I was the only one who put butter on tortillas. When I lived in Mexico, people really frowned on that.

    Meanwhile, back in the Canadian boondocks, it’s tortillas made from dried masa for me. Better than nothing… I guess…

  • I just came from Spain where I ate some average store-bought tortilla chips, and thought to myself wouldn’t it be awesome to be able to buy some great tortilla chips in Paris ?…

    Sometimes the cosmos answers your call when it is desperate enough, in this case you are the cosmos.

    On their website they state that “fried” tortilla chips sell for 11€/kg, apparently it is not available yet on their “orders” page, but it looks as it’s coming pretty soon. (I hope)

    Thanks cosmos.

    • I did notice that but am not sure if those are in their future or not. Since they just opened, they are still working on their site a bit.

      • Thanks for comment on pop-ups, I’ve just never seen it on your blog before.
        We like our corn tortillas with shredded pulled pork shoulder
        (cooked with lots of oregano), shredded raw green cabbage
        and Tx peach salsa. Just gently warm your tortilla in a cast iron
        skillet till pliable. You get sweet, savory, good texture and gentle heat.

  • Oh dear! I think I’ll be going for a visit… maybe this Saturday.

    I have a small tortilla press that I brought when we moved, and I bring back bags of masa harina whenever I make it to the US. But it would be so nice to make enchiladas or tacos without it being a major process.

  • I think they would also make a killing selling fresh masa too. Seriously, there’s nothing like a totally fresh corn tortilla straight from the griddle or comal.

  • This is fabulous David! Never thought I’d see the day a “real deal” Mexican tortillería would flourish in Paris. Guess that’s one less thing you’ll miss from the Bay Area. Keeping my fingers crossed your next post will be about a Taqueria in Paris that serves carnitas and pastor.
    Know that your appreciation for “beaner fair” is appreciated back in order of magnitude.

  • Hello David and thank you for your terrific blog!
    How about telling us where we may get a terrific Salsa to go with the new Tortillas?
    My daughter will shortly be in Paris with her husband and will definitely be looking to
    try the tortillas and hoping for Salsa.
    Thanks and happy Springtime.

    • I’ve not found good bottled salsa here; most of it is jars of things like Old El Paso, and so forth. Fortunately avocados are abundant and can be found at any market and most produce stores. Boca Mexa, listed in the post about Mexican Restaurants in Paris (at the end of the post) has a few various salsas and I think they sell them to go.

    • Just make your own salsa…tomatoes, onion, cilantro, jalapeño peppers, salt, garlic, and lime juice. Blend in a blender for smooth, or leave chunky. For a more robust flavor, roast the tomatoes and peppers first. Enjoy!

  • Funny to see you sooooo desperate for a state-side product to arrive à Paris—that’s the way I am here in the States when something is rumored to be arriving from Paris!

  • Coming from Tx this excitement just sounds
    odd. The pat of butter on a corn tortilla pic;
    David!
    Btw getting an annoying pop-up on your
    blog now :(,

    • I saw that too, the other day. I contacted the nice folks my ad network because I don’t allow pop-ups on the site and although they’re not supposed to show up, somehow one seems to be slipping through. We’re not sure how to make it not do that but apologies for the ad appearing and I hope they can fix it shortly. Thanks for your patience & apologies (because I don’t like those either.)

  • Great! Another place to add to the 11th.
    Every couple of years I spend 3 months there near your favourite building….such a great area and getting even better by the sound of it.
    I love your site….it keeps me connected between visits.
    Thank you!!

  • it’s a rare day that albuquerque can one up paris, but when it comes to tortillas… we got ya beat, hands down.

  • Hi David – just shallow fry them – my mom had a great low sided cast iron skillet – http://www.lodgemfg.com/seasoned-cast-iron/grill-pans-and-griddles/round-griddle-L9OG3 – and always made homemade chips with Mexican food dinners. Delicious!!

  • I enjoy reading your blog, but I do not like the pop up ads for Amazon Kindle. I have a blocker turned on and they still appear at the bottom of the screen. I hope you are being paid for the ads. They are irritating.

    • There should not be any pop-up ads appearing on the site (because I don’t like them either) – so I have instructed my ad network not to allow them and as mentioned, they are extremely diligent about following up on those. I do apologize again if they are appearing and I am doing my best to follow up with them and make sure they don’t appear. Thanks!

      PS: Perhaps they are showing up on the mobile version? My site is being reconfigured for mobile so that might have something to do with it. Let me know if it is the mobile version that you are seeing those and we’ll look into that.

  • i don’t seem to be getting any popups…that’s some pretty prompt response from your kind folks if it’s been fixed already

    there seems to be a dearth of good mexican food in the uk, or mayb i’m just talking to the wrong people and looking in the wrong places
    sigh, i’ve never had fresh tortillas before and that’s absolutely something i need to sort out- time to add masa harina to my food hunt (on the prowl for those giant white corn kernels too)

    lols not suprised at the heat though. my sis went to mexico last year, and remarked on the very liberal use of chilli powder. it went on everything, including sweets and as even as a condiment to fruits.

  • Happy for you David…and I can bring you a big bag of pecans in a couple of weeks when I come to Paris!

    Emily at Town And Country Shuffle

  • I have always preferred to get fresh tortillas and cook them at home because I bake them. My whole family has wished they could buy baked rather than fried.

  • Mucho buenos

  • I am so jealous. I live in Italy and just finished up the package of corn tortillas that I brought back from the States a few weeks ago. To have them available locally, that would be heaven. When they start shipping beyond the borders of France, I’m in!

  • This is just perfect – I’ve been rambling about why I can’t get a decent tortilla here at home (Copenhagen, Denmark) after living in the US for a while and then returning to the (pardon my French) shitty ones with lots of wheat back home has been almost unbarring. I will now have to buy loads of these when visiting Paris this easter (maybe I’m the one who will test their capacity;)

    Thanks for sharing, such wonderful infos!

    XO C

  • Yes I am getting a pop-up on my iPhone.

    Well it happened yesterday and I let you know. I rechecked today and no pop-up.

    Funny you like pecans, tortillas. If you like
    Tex-Mex, brisket and a independent spirit too
    you may have to visit TX soon.

  • La Tortilla http://www.latortilla.de/en/index.php have been making fresh tortillas on the premises of their shop near Munich for 20 years. Their tortillas are the real thing and they ship all over Europe. They also stock chiles, frijoles, salsas and other Mexican goods.

  • WOW, made my mouth water! I still have my German wheat grinder in my garage that was used to MAKE MY OWN tortillas in Buenos Aires. YES, that is how desperate I was. Found out how to make the darn things from that FAB Cook, Kennedy on Mexican food.

    I started by boiling the white corn in slack lime, drying it, roasting it, grinding it and then making the tortillas. I still have my tortilla press’ that I used to flatten them. It was a lot of work but well worth every bite. We now have those horrid premade things right here in Puerto.

  • Duck confit tacos sound good, but duck chicharron tacos with baby cilantro top that any day. If you are ever in Los Angeles, run don’t walk to Cacao Mexicatessen in Eagle Rock.

  • Las tortillas me gustan! (I hope my Spanish is better than my French).
    David,
    I am using your blog as my “Lonely Planet” for my upcoming, first-ever trip to Paris. I am looking forward to telling the vendors at the various marches that, “Je vais prendre” this and that comme vous. Also, I am preparing myself not to get too offended if someone pushes me aside or tries to cut in line in front of me=)

    Saw your post about Velib, the bicycle system, in Paris. Wondering about bike routes in Paris, though? Is there a good map of them? Can you just take to any road and keep…right, is it? Are arm signals the same there as in North America? Also, do you think the Velib people will refund the deposit you have to give in the beginning, no problem? Or, will it be one of those impossible situations?
    Merci for any info. you can give me.
    Anna

    • There are bike paths as well as dedicated bike lanes on some of the streets in Paris. Others, bikes just travel on the right with traffic. The bikes are a great way to get around Paris but if you are unfamiliar with Paris, it might prove a challenge. I think there are guides with the bikes lanes available but am not sure, and am not sure about the return of the deposit as I haven’t had any experience with that, positive or negative.

      There are guides to the bike lanes of Paris, such as the Michelin Paris à Velib, as well as others (which are expensive to buy outside for France – so I would buy one in Paris, at a bookstore.)

  • Oh my days! These look anaaaazing! I love tortillas but I’ve never had fresh ones like these. Note to self…

  • In Paris masa harina as well as tortilla press is sold at L’épicerie de bruno, 30, rue Tiquetonne 75002 Paris, http://www.lepiceriedebruno.com. They are selling British Cool Chile brand already mentioned in the previous comments.

  • Duck tacos sound amazing… and now Cacao Mexicatessen is on our LA food list.

    Fabulous to see authentic Mexican food in Paris.

  • I am so excited to see this posting. I am moving to Paris in June from Houston, Texas, and I have been fretting about not being able to find good tortillas, or at least good cornmeal to make my own. I have no problem with deep frying to make chips, so I anticpate making lots of chips and guac, and hopefully some salsa as well.

  • These Tortillas look delicious. I can’t wait to try some.

  • As a Texan who has now lived in London 8 years, I have to say the Mexican scene is improving here, even if it could be better. Taqueria (mentioned by another commenter) in Notting Hill does make homemade, good (but only small size) corn tortillas. There are also several taco food trucks floating about these days (can’t remember the names, but Kerb at Kings Cross has them sometimes), Wahaca is OK for some things, and Chilango makes a decent burrito. I used to love Crazy Homies in Notting Hill, but confess I haven’t been in several years, so not sure how good it still is…