Here are some of my favorite places to eat in Paris. This is not an exhaustive list, and I've mentioned many of my other top picks here on the site, so you can use the search engine to find them. And there's others on My Paris page here as well.
I don't normally write up restaurants that I eat at here on the site since, to be honest, when I go out, I'd rather just enjoy the experience and not think about what I'm going to write about as I'm eating, setting up a tripod and taking pictures, and they giving you a play-by-play retelling of what-course-came-after-what-course.
(Actually, the truth is, we're all usually having too much wine and too much fun to remember much, other than if I had a good time or not. I'd make a lousy restaurant reviewer.)
Several of these are also not fancy places. Sure, many people come to Paris for fine-dining, and you can find many of those addresses floating around guidebooks and online. But sometimes you just want a big plate of vegetable salads instead of half a carrot garnished by a shredded basil leaf with a dot of saffron sauce. I've included a few stand-by, reliably decent restaurants in case you happen to be in Paris on a Sunday, when many places are closed.
If you have some favorite places that you'd like to share, I'd love to hear about them since I'm always looking for new places to try and I'm sure others would too.
Feel free to leave your dining suggestions in the Comment area.
Before you start, here's a few tips when dining in Paris:
- It's always a good idea to reserve a table. Even if you arrive and the place is virtually empty, they like to know you're coming and you'll get a warmer welcome. Unlike the US, often you can call most restaurants that afternoon and get in easily. Hot restaurants, or ones that are fancier, you should call about a week in advance, or longer. Don't bother using email links on most restaurant's websites here since you're unlikely to get a response.
- Don't be embarrased to order wine or water by the carafe. You probably think you'll feel like a cheapskate...but get over it. If you look around, most of the Parisians are doing the same thing. And yes, the water is safe to drink in Paris. Why do people keep asking that?
- Adding a tip is not required, but in spite of what you hear, most people leave a little extra for good service. If the check is 28€, you could leave 30€ if you were pleased. Or if your meal is 95€, you could leave 100€. But remember that it's not required and if they don't bring you back your change, request it. I've had a few places pull that one (in Paris and in the US.) It's rude and presumptuous.
- LIke anywhere in France, always say Bonjour or Bonsoir when entering a restaurant, and when you leave, say Merci. Preferably add a Monseiur or Madame along with it.
- Many restaurants have 'deals' at lunch, or fix-price menus that are often a bargain. Some have them at dinner as well, and they're generally a good value.
- Please, do not bring out your hand sanitizer at the table. Do your grooming in the bathroom.
- No one has doggie bags, so don't even ask. (Although a friend of mine showed some cleavage and got one. Once.)
- No one has ice, so don't even ask. (Ok, well, you might get one or two. Wear something low-cut if you plan to ask.)
Rôtisserie Beaujolais 19 quai des Tournelles, tel 01 43 54 17 47. Grilled and spit roasted meats, and typical French fare. In the 5th. Avoid seats just next to the opening to the oven...it's très hot and they like to stick out-of-towners there, who they think won't complain. But I do since they invariably lead me to it. Open Sunday night.
Chez René 14, blvd St. Germain. Tel 01 43 54 30 23. Great French classics. The best Coq au Vin in town, with a sauce as smooth as velvet. If you don't order the fix-priced menu, be prepared for a lot of food. It's quite an experience and the cheese plate(s) is/are insane. Dinner menu, approximately 40€. In the 5th. You didn't hear it from me, but there's a clear brandy digestive hidden behind the bar...with a snake in it!
Cuisine de Bar 8, rue Cherche-Midi (M: Sevres-Babylon), tel 01 45 48 45 69, in the 6th. Open-faced tartines, or sandwiches, served on pain Poilâne, the famed bakery next door. Order the 12€ formule with a salad, tartine (I like the one with sardines and flakes of sea salt, or poulet with anchovies), a glass of wine or bottle of water, café and a spiced cookie. Very casual yet chic. And friendly. No reservations...lunch only. If the wait it long, they'll often pour you a welcome glass of wine.
L'As du Falafel On 34, rue des Rosiers in the Marais (M: St. Paul), closed Friday night and Saturday for the Jewish holidays. The best falafel anywhere! Join the crowd clamoring at the window. A dive & definitely a must...decent frites as well. One dining room is non-smoking. No reservations.
For something vegetable-oriented, Chez Marianne in the Marais at 2, rue des Hospitalieres St. Gervais, tel 01 42 72 18 86. Come here for decent Mediterranean salads. You choose a combination plate of 4, 5, or 6 salads. This is a good address to know about if you're craving something without a lot of meat. Perfect with a bottle of house rosé. Approximately 20€. Reserve, or wait for eternity. Can be a bit smoky, but open every day and night.
Chez Omar is one of my favorite restaurants in town. Specialties are couscous and they have excellent steak and French fries as well, but I always have the roasted lamb, or méchoui d'agneau. Very lively, no reservations. Open daily for lunch and dinner, as well as Sundays. If you go for dinner, be prepared for a wait after 8:30pm. Don't let any Parisians cut in front of you! A simple shove with your shoulder, followed by a very apologetic "Oops! Pardon" is usually all it take to get them to recede. Do it firm enough and you'll only need to do it once. Trust me. Moderate prices, which do seem to keep climbing each time I go. In the 3rd, at 47 rue de Bretagne. (M: Temple or Arts and Metiers)
Another great couscous place that's less-hectic is L'Atlas, with fine Moroccan food. Feathery light couscous and savory tagines. Skip the first courses. Not fancy nor too pricey considering the fine food and gracious service. DIne in the lovely tiled dining room, or outside in fine weather. Located at 12, St. Germaine des Pres. Vegetarians will love the large selection of seafood tagines. Tel 01 44 07 23 66 (M: Maubert-Mutualité), in the 5th.
Bistrot Paul Bert 18, rue Paul Bert, tel 01 43 72 24 01 (M: Faidherbe-Chaligny) Out of the way, but definately worth going to. I love this restaurant. Some of the best desserts in Paris too. Offers a 3-course fixed menu for 32€. In the 12th.
Les Papilles 30 rue Gay-Lussac, tel 01 43 25 20 79. Wine bar and light, 'market-fresh' food. Menu approximately 30€. In the 5th. Small portions, but cheerful staff. (Update: Follow link...I stand corrected about portion sizes!)
Your ice comment reminds me of a (now) funny story. When M and I were on our honeymoon, she tripped and fell in the Metro as we transferred from Gare Montparnasse (I think) to Gare de Lyon. We got to Gare de Lyon, and I went to look for ice. I spied a restaurant, and went up there. All in French I said, "My new wife (playing up the sympathy angle) has fallen in the Metro and hurt her foot. Do you have any... any... when you have water, and it's very cold, and makes a little shape (finger illustration)." For the life of me, I couldn't remember the word for ice in French.
So no worries about me asking for some!
David, this in no way would make a best restaurants list, but best dish list, yessiree. The restaurant was OK, but the warm lentil salad was one of the best things I ever ate. It was at L'Ambassade d'Auvergne near where we stayed at Arts et Metier.
(I hated their famous potatoes and friend ordered pot au feu (sp) which of course really has to be in the kitchen of some maman.) The portion was a potful, which I shared with all my common-table mates-- all French, thank goodness.
One of my favorite places to eat is Le Bar a Soupes.
It's reasonably priced, friendly, and very inventive with their menu (it changes daily). They serve only soups - both hot and chilled, as well as dessert soups.
33 rue de Charonne 75011 Paris
Tel. 01 43 57 53 79
Metro - Ledru-Rollin or Bastille
http://www.lebarasoupes.com
Bistrot Melac is another restaurant very dear to me. They serve Aveyron cuisine (Southwestern France), and it's true country cooking. The menu changes daily (it's written on the wall), and I've never had a more pleasant meal in Paris. The staff, as well as Jacques, are friendly and extremely funny -- representing the Bacchanal-like atmosphere of the place. They are passionate about the wine and the food, and it shows. You walk in and you know you're about to have a very special evening -- the restaurant's many regulars know the same thing too.
42 rue Léon Frot 75011 Paris
tél. 01 43 70 59 27
Metro - Charonne
http://www.melac.fr
Hi david!
I'm Julia, (15), and live in Holland. At least one time a day I check your site curiously, in case you have a new adventure already, and I always read your stories with much pleasure and appreciation.
Although I really love to bake and have a quite big collection cookbooks and torn out recipes already, (all with the intention of making someday...) I don't make a lot of food creations.
...until I read your french macaron story. - I myself went a few weeks before that post to Paris for my birthday, and had at the boulangerie Paul's - on Boulevard Hausmann's - my first macaron. H E A V E N! I didn't know before that what a macaron was, but I was instantly hooked. I recommend everyone to go to PAUL's for a lovely breakfast or brunch for example, you can sit above the shop very nice. (I'll not share more info, otherwise, I 'm still busy tomorrow...)
Anyhow, when I came back I became really depressed, missing the exciting Paris, whishing I was there instead of this ****** country, and went almost directly to the kitchen, armed with your recipe. I made the macarons. They turned out quite well, but I couldn't of course compare them with the one I had at Paul's... :( (but nothing can, I'm afraid...)
The real reason for this email was to tell everyone what a great place LADUREE is. I absolutely fell 100% in love with this place. the beautiful, classic ambiance, with al the mint green and gold. I had such a wonderful time. We lunched at Laduree in the Printemps, and I had a Laduree club sandwich. the most beautiful little (brioch-isch) toasted bread came with absolutely everything between it I love; some mozzarella, sundried tomatoes, home made pesto, grilled aubergine and courgette, and even some more. Some salad was served on the side with a terrific simple olive-oil an f a n t a s t i c homemade salty patatochips(!) yam yam yam! - I still dream of this lunch!! - and another thing (i promise, after that I'll stop honouring...) it was exactly enough! (no overwhelming monster which will frighten you only by looking at it (the famous Mount-Everest effect on a plate...)
so ahum... after this short comment, in short, everyone: go to LADUREE, (and to PAULs, but if you have to choose - LADUREE; the restaurant on the Champs de Lysee is in my opinion the BEST place where you can eat. Everyone always tells about there take out - pattiserie/boulangerie but the rest is also so heavenly!
aaahh..I wish I lived in Paris!! :(
All good info -- except for the "wear something lowcut" suggestion which, frankly, is WAY too ordinary a suggestion for someone with your obvious level of intelligence.
I'm shocked, shocked, I tell you! Small portions at Les Papilles? I recall a tureen of soup left on the table for second helpings and the plat arriving in a casserole containing more than enough for second helpings as well. Please don't tell me that's no longer true.
It reminded me of some little provincial restaurant with a generous and creative chef. Although I can't remember dessert so maybe that portion was small. And the place itself is small and suffers from my pet restaurant peeve, the unfortunate Parisian habit of overheating. But I'm going back anyway.
In Paris last December, my husband and I ate at Le Florimond twice. It's a lovely neighborhood restaurant, full of warmth and with some excellent home-style cooking. The dinner prix-fixe is 33.50€ for three courses. The savory dishes we tried were uniformly good, but the desserts were so-so. We were happy to give them a pass on this because everything else was so nice.
Le Florimond, 19, avenue de la Motte-Picquet, Paris (7th), 01 45 55 40 38
We also had lunch at L'Avant Goût. The food was superb and imaginative. The lunch menu was about 30€ for three courses, but they also had a 14€ menu served as is (no choices). If you like what's on it, you're getting an excellent deal.
L’Avant Goût, 26, rue Bobbillot, Paris (13th), 01 53 80 24 00
A lot of really great sounding dishes. Thanks for the post and the adivce.
Maybe people are concerned about the drinking water because of French water recycling. I guess how safe you think the water is depends on who you think the water passed through before it got to you!
Oh, to have a falafel at L'As du Falafel... *sigh*. Sitting at the tiny tables all scrunched up and watching everyone else smoke and chat. The roasted eggplant one is my favorite.
When you go to Dijon, you must try Restaurant Jean-Pierre Billoux. The pastry chef there, Nicolas, makes the best desserts in all of France, I'm convinced.
David, thank you so much for this list. I was wondering if you or any of your readers could tell me if most of these restaurants are child-friendly. My husband and I will be in Paris for the first time in Sept. and will have my 18-month old son with us. So that cuts out any fine dining, I'm assuming, but do most of the neighborhood restaurants and bistros welcome toddlers and provide high chairs?
Hi David,
My husband and I have gone to Le Dauphin quite a few times and are always delighted. 167, rue Saint Honore, Place Andre Malraux. Southwestern France cuisine, a comfortable, convivial atmosphere, and food just enough of a surprise to keep us going back without over-reaching for trendiness.
My other never-miss stop is Sunday lunch at Au Boeuf Couronne out in La Villette (188 Ave. Jean-Jaures)--but still on the Metro. I love the three generations of French families being seen tofor hours by a single waiter/ress, who does everything from slice the chateuabriand to flame the crepes and cut the cheese. Classic, and just divine beef as well!
Wow, thank you for the tips and restaurant recommendations. I am surely printing this out and taking it with me to Paris!
I also love Rotisserie Beaujolais. I went there for the first time 12 years ago, and now always make sure I go have the lamb whenever i visit Paris. Last summer my husband and I ate at Thomieux based on your reccomendation. We had great cassoulet and duck confit there!
Thanks David for the great Market walk! I ended up going bk for a nice bottle of Rosé & had the formule at L'encre too
Merci
My first recommendation: go to the 19th or 20th arr. and just try something. It's such a pleasure to go to places that have fewer tourists. I lived near Gambetta last fall and there were many interesting places in the neighborhood. Closer in, not far from Chez Omar, the small restuarant of Enfants Rouges on rue de Beauce. Simple, not open every day. Great wine list. Annuaire says: "Une petite adresse très conviviale dans le quartier où l'on déguste à midi des plats simples de la cuisine de ménage, tandis que le soir les plats plus élaborés font le régal des habitués dans une atmosphère de réjouissante bonne humeur. Menu du déjeuner à 13Euro. A la carte comptez autour de 26Euro. Service du soir, uniquement jeudi et vendredi. Très belle carte de vins pour amateurs éclairés." Don't tell anyone about it. Also Clown Bar for lunch.
Hi David-
I enjoy reading your blog. If I can't be in Paris, reading you is the next best thing. I just read your posting on Paris restaurants which got me thinking about one I ate at in the fall of 2004, Chez Elle, Cecile Restaurant, 7, rue des Prouvaires in the 1st arrondisement. I thought it was a great little place, even tho' a woman, who I assume was the owner, threw her hands up and started screaming, NO!, NO!! when we walked in. Altho' I'm certain I oozed that Parisian sensibility in my dress and demeanor (?), my daughter had on a Paris sweatshirt that she bought the night before at the Eiffel Tower, and my sister, whose French shoes without an arch support left her feet sore and swollen, and had nothing else to wear but my daughter's hot pink Converse high tops. We looked like the dreaded Americans. The waiter felt sorry for us and showed us to a table. When I asked if they could make a sandwich for my daughter, he took a deep breath and walked back over to the woman who wasn't particularly happy that we were in her restaurant. After she threw a hissy-fit again, he came back over to our table and shook his head. My daughter said, "that's o.k. I'll have the steak." We had the best meal at that little restaurant, and when I come back this June, I'm going there again. Anyway, I have never seen a thing written about this place. I keep thinking I'll see something mentioned about it sometime. Have you ever eaten there? It's right by the Forum des Halles. I thought it was Great. But it was 2:00 in the afternoon and maybe i was just really, really hungry.
Thanks!
Derrick (and Kelly): Maybe if you wore something low-cut, you wouldn't have had so much difficulty getting ice.
Julia: I love Ladurée too, but I've not eaten lunch there. It's awfully dainty for a rugged guy like me. Only had les macarons to go. Yum!
Carol: Nice meeting you too! Glad you liked the restaurant. It's quite genuine. I love that wine store. I'm not too knowledgeable about wine (except I do know that I love it) and she's so interesting and helpful.
Paul: I like Melac, but that guy who works there is kinda over-the-top in-your-face (re:obnoxious). Their eggs in red wine with liver and bacon is incredible, though, and I'd go back just for that.
Susan: I was passing the Clown Bar one day with a friend who's a concierge at a major hotel in Paris. We asked for cards, since it was between meals. The woman told us we could have just one business card...to split between us. Consequently, I never went back since if they're that skimpy with the cards, I can't imagine what they're like doling out the food! Still, I love the tilework and hear it's good. If only I had a card, I could remember where it was! (just kidding..)
PhillyUKgirl: I know there's a place out there called Le Relais Villette, so I wonder if it's the same place? It sounds the same and I've never been, but my Parisian friends tell me it's great and I'd love it. Kudos on finding it too!
Vivian: I've not seen many high chairs, but I've never looked. In my opininon, French people are quite accomodating the infants since they're family-oriented, and I doubt you'd have any problems. Maybe is other readers leave suggestions here, that's help you more.
TankedUpTaco: I'm more concerned that the water came via the Seine. Ick! (But I still drink it..)
Shelli: You ate all the soup?!? No wonder there was none left when I got there.
Bettina: L'avant Gout is nice, and the fixed-price lunch is an amazing deal, provided that's what you want. Last time I went, we all ordered it, but we seemed to be the only ones.
Peggy: Down to Dijon I will go!
E: I loved your story! I can just see it. But please go back, and bring a videocamera for us all.
Thanks everyone..so far, for your suggestions! I love reading them. -DL
Thanks very much for taking the time to tell us about these restaurants. There's nothing like a good recommendation from a fellow foodie! Now, here's a place that I simply adore:
LIDO (Restaurant Chinois)
1, rue d'Ouessant, Paris 75015
This Chinese restaurant, in the 15th arrondissement, is just a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tower. The food was exquisite and Helene, the proprietress, was so welcoming that I felt as if I was being served at the home of a cherished friend. Even in Paris, I always look for great Chinese restaurants. They are my means of staying in touch with some vegetables in my diet, when I travel! This is my favorite, by far.
The restaurant's website is in French. But, it's easy to navigate and provides a map of its area under PLAN, photos under GALERIE, menu under CARTE.
www.restaurant-lido.com
I love "Les Pipos", a tiny wine bar near the Pantheon, on the charming place de l'Ecole polytechnique. The owners are from Auvergne, they always have the same things on the menu, among which the "pavé de boeuf Charolais sauce au poivre", served with homemade fries, which I HIGHLY recommend. Great ambiance, friends of the owner more often than not. It used to be open only for lunch, but I think they do dinner now. They also have huge "assiettes de fromage" and "assiettes de charcuterie". I used to get lunch there at least once a week when I was a student in the neighborhood. That's where I took the boyfriend who recently became my husband when he first visited me in Paris, and he just fell in love with the place ; now it's the first restaurant we go to when we're in Paris.
You should definitely try it if you don't know it !
And thanks for your tips !
Les Pipos
2, rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique
75005 Paris
Métro Maubert-Mutualité (ligne 10)
01 43 54 11 40
i love l'as du falafel... and i'm definitely going to check out some of these places when i'm in paris next... hopefully in the next month or two.. :)
When we lived in the 15th, our favorite restaurant was on the border between the 15th and 7th, hence the name: le Sept Quinze. French food with very slight Asian or Californian influence, very laid back and unpretentious yet delicious.
When we left the neighborhood to move to the upper Marais we were disappointed by many of the restaurants there, which we often found were a bit too expensive or pretentious for the quality of food they served (I realize this sweeping generalization begs to be challenged, but we didn't go out that often, as we had a newborn baby then...). We lived right near Omar, which we liked but found expensive. (Actually we lived on the rue de Beauce, the street of Les Enfants Rouges mentioned above. This restaurant was not definitely not pretentious, but I don't remember the food too well.)
Despite the many offerings of the Marais we often went all the way back to our old less-cool neighborhood to have dinner at the Sept Quinze.
Le Sept Quinze29 Avenue de Lowendal
75015 Paris
01 43 06 23 06
I do not agree with your choice of Omar. I've been living for fifteen years in this particular street. I've seen it turn from our local couscous to a so-hip-it-hurts restaurant. I am harsh: it's a rip-off.
Chez Omar used to be more fun back when it was funkier, but I still think the food is very good (real French fries!) The lamb mechoui is still great, though while every time I go the prices do seem to have crept up a bit. Still, you can have good couscous for about 22€ and a bottle of rosé.
(Adam, our favoriteAmateur Gourmet, called his Chez Omar dinner one of the best meals of his life.)
In Paris, L'Atlas has very good couscous and Trois Freres used to, up by Maison Rouge, but last time I went it was lame and tasteless.
Any suggestions? Where should I try next?