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David Lebovitz Archives: Cookbook Reviews

Favorite Baking Books of 2007

It's that time of the year, folks, when everyone's thoughts turn to baking. Coincidentally it's when the new crop of baking books are released, just in time for the sweet surge. This has been a pretty interesting year for cookbooks as the trends seem to be returning to books geared towards home bakers and cooks. Thankfully in my opinion.

Although some of these books were written by pastry chefs, all are geared towards the home cook. I've been making notes in each of them which desserts I plan to try in the upcoming months and I hope to share them with you as well.

The long-awaited book from pastry chef Elizabeth Falkner, Demolition Desserts show how this very talented San Francisco baker breaks down classic desserts, and reconstructions them into whimsical, yet sophisticated presentations.

Although at first glance these look complicated, I envision many of these recipes being adaptable and great on their own. Tapioca with Concord Grapes is one winning combination I'm eyeing.

But there's also simple Citizen Cake bakery classics: Chocolate Chip Cookies, Sticky Toffee Cupcakes, and puffy marshmallows which get dipped in a thin layer of dark chocolate at her bakery. If you're not afraid to tackle some projects in the kitchen—and many recipes aren't all that complicated—Elizabeth's book is a wild, wacky ride through the world of modern baking.

When Alice Medrich releases a new book, it's always a special event. And I've never made a recipe of hers that didn't go instantly into my 'winner' category.

Continue reading "Favorite Baking Books of 2007" »

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Chez Panisse Gingersnap Recipe

During my interview at Chez Panisse, as I sat across the table from Alice Waters in the main dining room at the restaurant, she asked me, "What do you eat at home?"

Since I'm not exactly convincing when lying, I told her.

"I eat popcorn, mostly." And continued, "I'm a restaurant cook. I don't have time to eat at home."

(Although I did conveniently omit the fact that it was microwave popcorn...)

In spite of that, or because of my chutzpah, I got hired and worked at Chez Panisse for a long time. What nailed it for me and endeared me to Alice, years later, wasn't her politics or her philosophy on cooking. It was when I told her, "I really like to drink coffee leftover from the morning, with milk in it, that's been sitting on the counter all day."

And she said, "Me too."

Continue reading "Chez Panisse Gingersnap Recipe" »

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Socca, v1.0...v1.6...v1.9...

A reader recently inquired that her and her husband were planning to visit France and since he couldn't tolerate any gluten, is there anything that I could recommend? She had attached a list of words in French for acceptable grains, like oatmeal and barley,

So I flipped through my French dictionary and looked under Special Dietary Needs, but there was a blank space. I didn't know what to tell them. I was (almost) defeated. I finally recommended that they rent an apartment so they could do much of their own cooking and more importantly, they should frequent the same restaurants over and over so that staff got to know them.

Not many people, no matter where they're from, are aware of which products have gluten. Even me.

For example, I didn't know that most soy sauces had gluten, as well as many bottled salad dressings, malt vinegar, various mustards, processed meats, and even some toothpastes and lipstick. (I could certainly give up one, but not the other.) And apparently I'm not the only one unaware gluten-free lifestyles: Even my local health food store stocks their gluten-free bread, unwrapped, on the same shelves with the regular bread, crumbs mingling and all.

Continue reading "Socca, v1.0...v1.6...v1.9..." »

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A Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipe with Two Secrets

I've had a hankering to try Heidi's recipe for Chocolate Chip Cookies with her secret ingredient—mesquite flour—for the longest time. But although the mesquite flour I eventually found encompasses several continents, like I do, it's not available in the one I live in. So when I went to Texas, which I figured would be the epicenter of mesquite last June, I wandered the well-stocked aisles at Central Market in search of it. And lo and behold, there is was.

But looking at the label, I was surprised to find that it was imported...from Argentina. By a California company.

And there I was in a supermarket in Texas buying it.

Which I then brought back to France.

And for that, I'm certain to have my locavore card revoked.

Continue reading "A Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipe with Two Secrets" »

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And Here's To You, Mrs. Roberts Son

When Adam asked me to host him on his book tour through cyberspace, the first thing that went through my mind was—"Adam Roberts? Who cares about him?"

Especially when his mom pals around with the big boys...

My goodness, if Adam pops up one more time in my RSS feeder, I'm going to bop him in that big old schnozola of his. Well, that's not true. One of the highlights of my days (and nights) is when Adam posts to his fabulous blog, The Amateur Gourmet.

And for those of us who can't get enough of him popping up in our In boxes and blog feeders, he just released his first book: The Amateur Gourmet: How to Shop, Chop, and Table Hop like a Pro (Almost), so you can keep Adam in your kitchen, bring him into your bedroom and even take him in the loo with you.

But until I get a restraining order, I'm going to remain his mom, Mrs. Roberts, biggest fan. And I'm so in awe of her that she was featured in The Perfect Scoop (page 73).

Ben had to go shave before leaving to meet his pal Matt, but Mrs. Roberts agreed to stick around and answer my questions. Believe me, even without Ben around, I felt like I'd died and gone to nice-Jewish boy heaven...oy gevalt!

Q: When Adam tossed aside his promising career as a lawyer and came out to you, as a budding gourmand, what was your first reaction?

Mrs. Roberts: "WHAT?!"

That as my first reaction. But then my reaction was that I thought it was great. He's very creative, a very creative person, and he likes to write. He found an avenue to write and be creative so I was happy.

Q: Boy, my mother was ready to brain me when I tossed aside my promising career as a neurosurgeon to bake cookies. No wonder all those celebrities want to be seen with you.

Continue reading "And Here's To You, Mrs. Roberts Son" »

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Clotilde's Very Chocolate Cookies

I'm glad I'm not the only one around here who experiences what I call "Only in France" moments.

Recently I met up with Clotilde, who writes the popular Chocolate & Zucchini blog, for a drink one afternoon. I ordered a glass of wine and she, a mineral water. Although there was a large, unopened bottle of Badoit sparkling water standing prominently behind the bar, ripe for the taking, the serveuse told us they didn't have any bottled water.

Of course, neither one of us questioned that. But when she left to fetch our drinks, we both looked at each other, wrinkled up our perplexed faces, then shrugged it off. It's nice to know the locals find things as curious around here as I do.

Speaking of curious French things, if you're a regular reader of Chocolate & Zucchini, you're privy to her charming stories about her life in Paris accompanied by recipes. And you unless you've been hiding like a bottle of Badoit behind the bar, you've likely heard of her new book: Chocolate & Zucchini: Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen.

Turning the pages and reading about her life in Montmarte is like spending the day with une vraie Parisienne, which seem to be an endless quest of finding the best markets and sourcing ingredients then taking them home and making them into fabulous dinners to share with friends and her lucky neighbors.

Before I met Clotilde, I was certain she was some burly truck-driver from Wisconsin pulling a fast one over on us all.

Continue reading "Clotilde's Very Chocolate Cookies" »

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Mediterranean Summer

In spite of my reputation for serving guests only the finest cuisine I can muster up, I invited a friend for lunch yesterday and thought I could foist my can of salade Niçoise off on her, and I would be efficient and multitask with trying a recipe from a book I just finished.

Her visit, and my can of...um...salad?....presented me the opportunity to try The Spreadable Tuna Mousse from Mediterranean Summer by David Shalleck.

But then I opened the tin, took a look inside, and..."bleech!"

Ever the optimist, I dumped my fancy feast in my mortar and pestle anyways.

But the bottom looked even worse than the top—which you'll just have to trust me on since I felt uneasy subjecting you to photos of both. It was a real Mediterranean bummer and certainly not Nice...or even niçoise-ian by any definition (unless Nice is full of stinky fish sludge, with chunks of greasy vegetables mixed in.)

Continue reading "Mediterranean Summer" »

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The River Cottage Meat Book

I was at my publisher's office in Berkeley recently (handing out ice cream and sauce to everyone, if you want to know) and on my way out, the main editor handed me a copy of The River Cottage Meat Book.

At the time, I didn't quite know why he pressed a copy in my hand since it's not particularly a subject I'm always trying to learn more about. And when I felt the heft of the damn thing, I silently cursed his altruism—It weighed nearly five pounds, which translated to a full 5% of my entire luggage allowance.

But when I opened the cover, I quickly got over the fact he didn't hand me a baking book and understood why he chose to give me this one instead.

In the opening pages, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's Meat Manifesto contains the most sensible words about how to buy and why we cook meat that I've ever read. The design of the book lends itself to the subject, too. Presented like a textbook, The River Cottage Meat Book tells you everything you want to know about every possible kind of meat and poultry. And not only does it tell you, but shows you as well. Eschewing the typical nicely-styled look of most cookbooks, the natural, and sometimes disturbing photos that accompany the text include everything from cows grazing in the fields, to one on its way to meet its maker. And then some.

Instead of being horrified, I was drawn into the subject like I didn't think I could be. If you're going to eat meat, you should take responsibility for what you're doing and Fearnley-Whittingstall presents a rational case for finding a reputable butcher, buying close to home and using what you buy wisely and with purpose.

Although there's plenty of recipes, the real star of this book is the accompanying text. I'm devouring it for its comprehensive, rational treatise on all aspects of meat preparation and eating. It's written with care and concern and is the most thorough exploration of the subject I've read and I share the chef/author's well-presented opinions and have been engrossed in it ever since I got it.

In fact, the more I read, the more I realize that it's well-worth the weight.

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Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking

I love whole grains and I love chocolate.

So when I saw this curious Muzzi chocolate bar in a terrific Italian traiteur and grocer, Au Village Italien, I had to add it to my shopping basket. Inside the bar was little bits of puffed farro, or spelt as one would say in English.

(It's épautre in French, dinkel in German and for the brainiacs out there, it's triticum dicoccum in Latin.)

I was curious to taste how the dark Italian chocolate would meet up with the earthy, crispy little bits of whole grains and I was not disappointed. Boy...I took one bite of this and stopped in my tracks.

What a great bar of chocolate!

Speaking of not being disappointed, did you ever correspond with someone online, then meet up with them to find out they're nothing like you think?

Okay, you don't need to admit to that.
But I will.

Continue reading "Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking" »

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Friendship Bars: Dried Fruit Bar Recipe

Maybe this happens to you.

Maybe it doesn't.

You're invited to a party and as a nice gesture, you bring something along. Being a baker you decide, naturally, to bake something.

So you get to the party, you're wining and dining, loosening up and enjoying yourself. But when people find out you've brought a dessert, they all of the sudden get very interested in you, and what you've brought, what's it called, how you've made it, what's in it, what's the recipe, etc..etc...

The most difficult was when I brought a Bûche de Noël to a Christmas party, which is a fairly complicated affair involving spongecake, chocolate buttercream, soaking syrup, and lots of crackly meringue mushrooms for decoration. Some nutty woman followed me around all night with a pen and note pad, prodding me for recipe details and I spent the whole night trying to avoid her.

But let's say you've been working on recipes all day, or adding recipes to your blog. So you go to a party and maybe you'd rather just not talk about what you've made: After all, don't they know you have a food blog and a couple of cookbooks where they can get all that information?

(And no, I don't have a recipe for Bûche de Noël. But thanks for asking...)

So my technique for throwing 'em off the scent is to make up names for things I've baked that mean nothing, something innocuous that no one can possibly question. I've brought to parties Chocolate Surprise Cake, Mystery Spice Cake and Baked Summertime Fruit Dessert. But you need to be careful since if you pick the wrong name, something like Chocolate Emergency Cake, you'll have to explain the story behind the moniker 'emergency'.
And we can't have that, can we?

Then there's Friendship Bars...

Continue reading "Friendship Bars: Dried Fruit Bar Recipe" »

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Pastry Chef Sherry Yard

With all due respects, the first time I met Sherry Yard, I was squirming in my seat. I was sitting in the originally Spago, in West Hollywood, overlooking the city of Los Angeles. The room was filled with celebrities, but I remember getting special treatment.

I arrived in my best; a well-tailored Italian wool suit that I hoped made me fit in a little better with all the glamorous types seated all around me. It was a great meal, and we were having a wonderful time. But the longer I sat in the stylish chairs, the most uncomfortable I was becoming. It wasn't that I felt out of place. It was that my rear-end was starting to itch uncontrollably.

I knew that I shouldn't stand up and engage in an all-out scratch-fest (although nothing would have felt better), but I didn't know what to do. The longer I sat, the more intense it got. The wool in combination with the padded chairs was driving me nuts!

But soon enough, it was time for dessert, the cavalcade started. Sherry starting bringing out all sorts of wonderful things; tastes of hand-dipped dark chocolates, puckery lemon tartlets, and twists of crackly caramel that were so stunning, all these hot-shot celebrities starting looking at me.

But miraculously, as I started to spoon up and savor all these desserts, the itching subsided and each dessert was more delicious than the next. That was the first time we met and I was charmed at what a genuinely lovely and funny person Sherry is.

A few years later, Sherry moved over to Wolfgang Puck's newer Spago restaurant, located a few miles away in swanky Beverly Hills which replaced the original. Since we were pastry-pals, Sherry and I run into each other every now and then over the years; her vivacious personality is infectious and I don't know anyone who's more enthusiastic about what she does than Sherry. And if you talked to her for a few minutes, as I recently did, you'd see what I mean...

David: Every time I talk to you there seems to be something new and fabulous going on in your life. After all, being the pastry chef at Spago in Beverly Hills makes you the pastry chef to the stars. Plus you make the dessert for the big Oscar dinner every year.

Who are some of your favorite celebrities that you've cooked for?

Sherry: I guess you can say them all, from David Lebovitz to Presidents.

David: Thanks for the flattery, but compared to Madonna and Andy Dick (ick!), I'm a rube. But I loved celebrity-watching and Spago is the best. I one stood next to Shaq O'Neill there and his feet were huge! But your boss is a bit of a celebrity too. You've been with Wolfgang Puck for a long time as his executive pastry chef.

How's it been working with him, and what's he like as a boss?

Sherry: At the 2000 Bon Appétit Awards, Barbara Fairchild introduced Wolfgang Puck as my boss. His response, with a chuckle, when he walked up to the mike was "Anyone that knows Sherry knows she is my boss!"

David: He's actually quite funny, and works very hard too, which I think is because he was trained as a chef from a really early age. I also like that he gives ample credit to the chef's in his restaurants, and they tend to stay with him for a long time.

I love the desserts you make. They're always so contemporary, with clean, modern tastes yet grounded in traditional pastry techniques. I remember a Concord Grape Gelée that you made, enrobed in dark chocolate that was exceptionally good.

Continue reading "Pastry Chef Sherry Yard" »

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Interview with Gale Gand

I met Gale Gand a few years back at a culinary conference. I love meeting other bakers since we all share an unspoken bond, and we're generally the nicest people you're likely to meet (if I do say so myself). And I was happy to discover that Gale was no exception.

Gale's the author of four highly-regarded books on baking, Just A Bite, Butter Sugar Flour Eggs, Short & Sweet: Quick Desserts with Eight Ingredients or Less, and her latest, Chocolate & Vanilla, aside from all the other hats she wears.

Gale is also the host of one of the few baking programs on television, Sweet Dreams, and is the Executive Pastry Chef and co-owner of TRU restaurant in Chicago. Gale also (whew!)) won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year in 2001 and she owns a coffee shop...and a soda company!

We've kept in touch over the years, and I was really happy when my copy of Chocolate & Vanilla arrived so I could tackle some of Gale's recipes. (And for regular readers who've followed my problems with getting deliveries, you can imagine I was really, really happy just that it arrived at all!)

But it also gave me an excuse to take a moment to chat with Gale about her career in baking, and everything else that she's involved with...

David: How did you get your own program, Sweet Dreams on Food Network?

Gale: They called ME!

I used to call them when I was going to be in New York to be on Sarah Moulton's show and they'd give me a show date. Then one time I called to get a date and they said they didn't have any for me. I was shocked (and pouting)! Then there was a pause on the phone and then they said, "Because we'd like to offer you your own show!"

So I got super lucky. No try outs.

D: It sounds like your appearances on Sara's show were your try outs. So you probably weren't a jangle of nerves.

Speaking of nerves, what's the hardest thing about doing a television program?

G: Leaving my husband and kids for 2 weeks to stay in New York while I film...and leaving my restaurant staff too.

D: Is there anyone on Food Network that you really liked cooking with, and anyone you didn't?

Continue reading "Interview with Gale Gand" »

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My 10 Favorite Books of 2006

Here's a list of 10 books, in no particular order, that I've enjoyed this year.

Since I don't have easy access to English-language books, I chose mine carefully. Although I usually like to read books about food, I got a bit literate and discovered few books about Paris that were truly enlightening...which is really saying something for someone that hasn't lifted the lid on a history book since high school.

In addition to the books I've listed below, I've also enjoyed La Bonne Cuisine de Madame St-Ange, the updated On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee, and Rememberence of Things Paris, some of the greatest food writing from Gourmet magazine from the past sixty years that is still some of the freshest and liveliest food prose happily back in print.

And on a sad note, I've finally given up on La Poste and assumed the two cases of cookbooks I shipped three years ago probably aren't going to ever show up (hope is no longer springing eternal...), so I ordered a fresh, brand-new copy of Julia Child's classic, Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

A few books I'm looking forward to reading in 2007 are The Sweet Life: The Desserts from Chanterelle by pastry chef Kate Zuckerman, and books from my favorite bloggers, including Shauna, Adam's untitled masterwork, Chocolate & Zucchini by Clotilde Dusoulier, and Super Natural Cooking by Heidi Swanson of 101 Cookbooks.

The most talked-about food book of the year, New Yorker writer Bill Buford starts from scratch in the kitchen of Mario Batali, then learns to make pasta by hand from an Italian master, and ends up butchering in Tuscany.

Continue reading "My 10 Favorite Books of 2006" »

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Interview: Baker Nick Malgieri

Since I'm on an Italian fling here, I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to interview Nick Malgieri, whose fabulous recipe for Chewy Oatmeal Raisin Cookies I recently featured on the site. Nick is one of the most knowledgeable bakers in the world, frequently hobnobbing with such luminaries as Pierre Hermé and Dorie Greenspan, swapping recipes and baking techniques. I can't tell you how much I've learned from Nick's books myself, which range from the ultimate treatise on cookies, to one of the most beautiful books on chocolate in my vast collection.

Continue reading "Interview: Baker Nick Malgieri" »

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Nick Malgieri's Chewy Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Recipe

Recently I bought a sack of delightfully-crispy Boskop apples, my favorite of all French apple varieties.

After a quick rinse, I eagerly took a bite, my teeth breaking through the tight skin, anticipatiing the cool, crisp-tart flesh of a just-harvested apple.

But instead I spit it out: the flesh had gone soft and my precious apple was completely inedible.

Now any normal person would have tossed the rest of that apple in the garbage and grabbed another one. But not me. Since I am my mother's son, I can't throw anything away, no matter how trivial. But being quick-witted, I thought I would combine my frugal nature with my amazing generosity and the need to present a recipe here on the site, which is something I haven't been able to do in a while due to my travels and travails.

I've been working on an interview with master baker Nick Malgieri, who just came out with a new book, Perfect Light Desserts: Fabulous Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and More Made with Real Butter, Sugar, Flour, and Eggs, All Under 300 Calories Per Generous Serving (whew!). Look for that interview here, which became so lengthy and interesting that I'm still working on it, and will appear in the next week or so here on the site. I'll talk to Nick about teaching, being the pastry chef at Window's On The World, why he steals recipes from me, and what it's like to write cookbooks.

Because the recipes in his latest book have less-calories than regular desserts, several recipes use applesauce as a base. So like the abnormal person I've become living alone in my Parisian garret, a reclusive phantom of le gâteau Opera, I made The World's Tiniest Batch of Applesauce, but managed to turn it into two baking sheets of Nick's exceptionally chewy, dense, and delicious oatmeal cookies.

Here's my adaptation of the recipe from Nick's book. Although he calls for raisins, I didn't have any, so instead of actually leaving my apartment, I dug deep into my valuable expat stash for the benefit of my readers (yeah, right...) and substituted tart, bright-red dried cranberries instead. But you could use any diced dried fruit that you want.
I didn't have any oatmeal on hand either. So I used tofu.

Ok, just kidding (that was for all the 'substitution' people...and you know who you are!)
I used a mixture called cinq céréales, a blend of rolled oats, wheat, rye and other rolled grains that I stock up on at Naturalia, which is Paris' health-food store chain and a great place to explore, and see how 'healthy' Parisians eats. (If you're expecting to see Birkenstocks and draw-string pants, though, you going to be disappointed.) And although I've become un pea Parisian, I guess you can take the boy out of America, you can't take America out of the boy, and I supersized them, making my cookies bigger using about 2 tablespoons of the batter per cookie. I got 16 cookies, which were gone in a flash, since I bribed...uh, I mean...brought them to vendors at my local market who had no idea what an oatmeal cookie was. Needless to say, I got a few more stranger looks than usual yesterday, handing out cookies from a sack, but no one seemed to mind. The French are pushovers for anything delicious, which has made my life a whole lot easier around here, let me tell you.

Unfortunately, though, I ate quite a bit of the dough before it could be baked. How could I resist? It was like the most delicious, yummiest 'bowl of' oatmeal I've ever tasted, all bound together with a touch of French butter and golden brown sugar. And although my tinkering with the size probably screwed up the calorie guidelines, they were delicious and I figure I'll just have one less glass of wine this month to make up for it.
Really.

Chewy Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
About 36 cookies

Adapted from Nick Malgieri's book, Perfect Light Desserts: Fabulous Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and More Made with Real Butter, Sugar, Flour, and Eggs (HarperCollins).

1 cup flour (spoon flour into dry-measure cup and level off)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 large egg
1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/3 cups rolled oats (not instant)
1/2 cup dark raisins (or dried cranberries)

2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper, foil, or silicone mats

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and set the rack on the lower and upper thirds of the oven.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

3. In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter and granulated sugar until smooth. Mix in the brown sugar, then the egg, applesauce, and vanilla.

4. Stir in the dry ingredients, then the oats and raisins.

5. Drop the batter by rounded teaspoons 2-inches apart on the baking sheets and use a fork to gently flatten the dough.

6. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes, or until they "look dull on the surface but are moist and soft", according the Nick. Rotate baking sheets during baking for even heating.

(I made mine bigger, so whatever size you make them, just bake them until they look as directed by Nick.)

Storage: Once cool, store the cookies in an airtight container at room temperature.

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Will Write For Food

I took someone into a fromagerie the other day and he was asking me to describe a perfectly ripe, oozing camembert cheese. "Musty gym socks", "funky undies", and "barnyard-like" don't exactly sound appealing, but were the most accurate descriptions that came to mind at the time (looking back now, however, perhaps next time I need to do some pre-editing in my head). The trick to is to make something as special as a perfectly-ripened wedge of cheese sound so good that you can't believe it will taste better than it smells.
Conveying an exact sensation is the difficulty of food writing. How do you describe something that you think tastes good, and make it sound good enough for someone else to want to taste as well? (and if you think "musty gym socks" or "funky undies" taste good, you're at the wrong web site).

Dianne Jacob, a seasoned culinary journalist and instructor with a long string of success behind her, shares her secrets and suggestions while explaining what food writing is all about: how to succeed, how to get published, and what you can do to make your food writing more evocative and compelling.

Will Write For Food is one of the best and most comprehensive workbooks I've read on this topic and if you've fantasized about writing about food or wanted to know what it was like to write a review restaurant or well-loved cookbook, read the suggestions she culled from experienced food writers like Russ Parsons, Anthony Bourdain, Deborah Madison, and Alice Medrich.
Heck, I'm even in there too!

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Photo courtesy of
Christopher Hirsheimer

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