Recipe(s): Chocolate Biscotti & Marshmallows

Scharffen Berger Chocolate Company, which is well-known for making great chocolate, has just introduced a new organic cocoa powder.

As you may know, there are two types of cocoa powder; 'natural' and 'Dutch-processed'. Cocoa powder that is 'Dutched' has been treated with a harmless alkalizing solution to reduce acidity and harshness, and to make it darker. Because John and Robert at Scharffen Berger believe their cocoa tastes superior in its 'natural' state, their cocoa is not "Dutched".

Cocoa powder is made after cocoa beans have been roasted and ground into what's called 'chocolate liquor'. Although it's called 'liquor' it's not an alcoholic drink, but merely the mashed cocoa beans which become a dark paste. (What we call unsweetened or bitter chocolate as sold in bars is 'chocolate liquor').

A powerful hydraulic press rams the cocoa bean paste and the cocoa butter is expelled from it. The cocoa butter is very valuable to the cosmetic industry where it's used for lipstick, due to the fact that its melting point is slightly above body temperature. Cocoa powder has a lot less fat than chocolate since most of the cocoa butter (or fat solids) have been removed, so it's often used in low-fat baking instead of chocolate.

Once the cocoa mass has been de-fatted and compressed, it is then pulverized into the powdered form that we know of as cocoa powder. True cocoa powder is always unsweetened, although sometimes you can find in supermarkets sweetened cocoa mix, which should never be substituted in recipes that call for cocoa powder. Although there is some disagreement amongst professionals, you can often substitute 'natural' cocoa powder for 'Dutched' in many recipes-although when either is specified in a recipe, you might want to stick with the recipe writer's advice.

Here's a recipe for Chocolate Biscotti that I came up with using Scharffen Berger natural cocoa powder. It also appears in the package! If you can't get their cocoa, you can substitute any cocoa powder that's available. If you like crisper biscotti, omit the melted butter, although I found while testing the recipe that the small amount of butter improves the flavor.

Chocolate Biscotti
About 50 cookies

2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cups Scharffen Berger Cocoa Powder (or substitute another cocoa powder)

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 1/4 cups almonds, walnuts or hazelnuts (toasted and very coarsely chopped)

1/3 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Adjust the oven rack to the center and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, and pepper.

3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla, and almond extract.

4. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and mix in the eggs, along with the melted butter (or finely ground chocolate). Stir in the nuts.

5. With damp hands, form the dough into two 14-inch logs, spaced evenly on the baking sheet.

6. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from oven and cool 10 minutes. Using a long serrated knife, slice the dough diagonally into 1/2-inch cookies. Arrange cookies, cut side down on a baking sheet and return to oven an additional 20 minutes. If you like extra-crisp biscotti, flip them over midway during baking and bake them a few minutes longer.

7. Cool completely and store in an airtight container.

In some recent classes, I've made marshmallows as part of a tasty Rocky Road that I made using roasted peanuts, bittersweet chocolate and ground cocoa nibs. Although I often demonstrate marshmallows that don't use egg whites, I've decided after a few sleepless nights that I like these fluffy marshmallows the best of all!

This recipe is based on one that I learned while studying confectionary in Paris at the Ecole Lenôtre. In France, 'guimauve' or marshmallows are often tinted with colorings or made with added flavors. I prefer mine white and vanilla-y.

Marshmallows
Depending on how big you cut 'em...this recipe makes a lot!

2 envelopes powdered gelatin

1/2 cup + 1/3 cup cold water

1 cup sugar

1/3 cup light corn syrup

4 egg whites

pinch of salt

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

about 1/2 cup powdered sugar and 1/2 cup cornstarch, sifted together

1. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/2 cup of cold water to dissolve and soften.

2. In a saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, mix the sugar and corn syrup with 1/3 cup of water. Place over medium-to-high heat.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, pour in the egg whites and beat on low speed until frothy. Add the pinch of salt.

4. When the syrup reaches between 210 and 220 degrees, increase the speed of the mixer and beat the whites until they are thick and fluffy (do not overbeat).

5. When the syrup reaches 245 degrees, while the mixer is whipping, pour the syrup into the whites. Pour so that the syrup does not fall on the whip, otherwise much of the syrup will splatter onto the sides of the bowl, not into the egg whites.

6. Scrape the gelatin and water into the pan that you used for the syrup and swirl it to dissolve (it should be hot enough from the syrup to dissolve it). Pour the liquified gelatin into the whites as they are whipping. Add the vanilla and continue to whip for 5 minutes.

7. Dust with a sifter a 11x 17 (approximately) baking sheet evenly and completely with cornstarch mixture. Use a spatula to spread the marshmallows in a layer on the pan. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours or overnight, uncovered.

8. Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the marshmallows into pieces and toss in the powdered sugar and cornstarch mixture. Put the marshmallows in a colander or strainer and shake off the excess cornstarch mixture.

Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

To make Rocky Road;
Toss 3-4 cups of marshmallows and 1 1/2 cups of roasted peanuts in 1 1/4 pounds of tempered chocolate and spread on a baking sheet lined with plastic film. Cool briefly and cut into rectangles.

If you don't want to temper your chocolate, store the Rocky Road in the refrigerator until ready to eat.