Recipe: Pains D'Amande

(Adapted from Sweet Miniatures by Flo Braker, Chronicle Books, 2000)

Way too many years ago when I was working at Chez Panisse, the restaurant was in the process of organizing a fund raiser to fight to AIDS epidemic in the Bay Area. Over 1000 guests were expected for the event, and everyone at Chez Panisse, including Alice Waters, wanted the event to be as special as possible. Of course, Alice looked to the pastry department for inspiration and Lindsey Shere, owner and pastry chef, suggested that we make individual boxes of candies for each of the guests to take home.

Making, packaging, and wrapping over 1000 boxes of candies was a huge project and we needed outside help. Someone told me that Flo Braker was coming to help and that I would absolutely love her. That day, in walked this unassuming woman who rolled up her sleeves and started helping us with the daunting task of creating bejeweled candy boxes for the masses.

Later as we started to get a little punchy from the work at hand, we started playing 'dessert hangman' on the blackboard, and from that moment on we were instant friends.

Flo knows just about everything about baking, and what's most wonderful about her, is that she just loves to share her knowledge and enthusiasm.

When I was writing Room For Dessert, I wrote a line about not liking tiny cookies, since I feel that a cookie should be big enough for several delicious bites. Then I thought about Flo, and even though her cookies and pastries are sometimes diminutive in size, they are really bursting with big flavor and both bold and subtle textures. So I agonized how to word my sentiments in Room For Dessert, and I decided that I didn't like cookies that were "puny", which to me suggests underwhelming and insubstantial, not at all what Flo does. Everything she produces is flawless, but not in a contrived sense; Flo just knows how to make everything taste and look incredible.

So finally her latest book has been reissued. Sweet Miniatures was published and those lucky enough to get a copy were fortunate indeed, and the price of the book skyrocketed in used cookbook circles. Last year Flo decided to revise and expand Sweet Miniatures and release it again, with additional recipes and stunning photography by Michael Lamotte, who photographed Room For Dessert. I urge to get a copy of this book. It's full of so many wonderful recipes and I have so many favorites. But I would have to say her recipe for Pains D'Amande would be a favorite. It is such a delicious cookie that it was adapted for the Chez Panisse Café Cookbook, since it is a favorite amongst the diners at the café also.

Pains D'Amande
(Adapted from Sweet Miniatures by Flo Braker, Chronicle Books, 2000)

2 1/3 cups flour

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into quarters

1 1/3 cups Hawaiian washed sugar, see note

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/3 cup water

1 cup (3 ounces) sliced almonds

1. Sift together the flour and baking soda. Set aside.

2. In a 1 1/2-quart saucepan over low heat, combine butter, sugar, cinnamon, and water. Stir until the butter melts, but don't allow to boil. (Don't be concerned if some of the sugar hasn't dissolved). Remove from heat and stir in the almonds. Pour the mixture into a 3-quart mixing bowl and set aside until lukewarm.

3. Stir in the dry ingredients all at once until thoroughly blended.

4. Press the soft dough into a 8 1/2" by 4 1/2" loaf pan. Cover and refrigerate until firm. (you can keep them for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or freeze them for up to 1 month.

5. To bake, adjust the lower rack to the third of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

6. Remove the dough from the pan and cut in half crosswise, then cut the halves lengthwise into thirds. Using a sharp knife, cut each bar into 1/8th-inch or thinner slices, and space them 1/4-inch apart on the baking sheet.

7. Bake each sheet at a time for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the undersides are light golden. Flip each cookie and bake for an additional 8-10 minutes until crisp and honey-colored.

8. Store cookies in and airtight containers for up to 10 days.

Note: Hawaiian washed sugar is available in supermarkets under the C & H brand name. It is very coarse crystals, light brown in color. If you can't get it, substitute turbinado sugar crystals.