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Pistachio Aillade

Inspired by The Zuni Café Cookbook by Judy Rodgers
Be sure to use very fresh pistachios. They go off quickly, so give them a look-see before using them. If you don’t have pistachios, or want to use another nut, you could use walnuts or hazelnuts. For those with a nut allergy, pumpkin seeds might make a good substitute. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, this can be made in a food processor. Just be sure to stop the machine a few times to scrape down the sides to make sure everything is getting incorporated properly. Although pistachio aillade is a terrific condiment with meat, poultry, fish (such as salmon or halibut), it’s also nice served with grilled or blanched vegetables, fresh tomatoes, tossed with pasta, and swirled into soup or a bowl of beans. As an appetizer, it can be smeared on toasts spread with fresh goat cheese.
  • 2/3 cup (110g) shelled pistachios, unsalted
  • 3-4 medium cloves of garlic, peeled, green germ removed, and coarsely chopped
  • 1/4 teaspoon of salt
  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 6-8 tablespoons (90-125ml) olive oil
  • kirsch, eau-de-vie, or brandy
  • 1 orange or tangerine, preferably unsprayed
  • Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180º).
  • Spread the pistachios on a small baking sheet and put in the oven for 3 minutes, just long enough to warm them through. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes, then coarsely chop them.
  • In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with the salt until the garlic has become a paste. Use 3 cloves of garlic if you want it mildly garlicky, 4 cloves if you want it stronger. (If not sure, add one now then add more later.)
  • Add the pistachios and pound them in the mortar and pestle until they are very well smashed up into little pieces. Because they have a lot of oil, you may need to scrape down the sides of the mortar with a rubber spatula and stir it a few times, then continue pounding.
  • Add the water, stir a few times to mix it with the nuts, then add the 6 tablespoons (90ml) of oil, one tablespoon at a time. Add a splash of kirsch, eau-de-vie, or brandy, and a few swipes of orange or tangerine zest, zested right into the aillade. If the aillade is too thick (it should be thick, but still runny), add an additional tablespoon or two of olive oil. Taste, and add more salt if necessary.

Notes

Storage: Aillade is best made at least a few hours before you plan to serve it. It will keep for about a week in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving. It will likely thicken up as it sits and can be thinned with a little more olive oil or warm water.