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One of the first lessons I learned on my way to becoming un vrai Parisian was to never, ever be on time. I should backtrack and say: One should never to be on time when invited for dinner party. The hosts, who called with my first invitation to a soirée about a week after I arrived in Paris, said “Come at 8pm…But you know, in Paris, that means to come at 8:30pm.”

Subsequently, when I have guests for dinner, I expect them to be around 20 minutes late, although there’s much debate on how late you’re actually supposed to be. But if you’re on time, or early, you might accidentally catch your hosts either in their skivvies.

It’s a tricky balance when you inviting folks for dinner, trying to make sure what dinner’s gonna be hot and well-cooked without having to spend the last 30 minutes trapped in the kitchen while your guests drink up all the rosé. And it’s now become fashionable to be even later, as if to show that you have oh-just-so-much on your agenda, which has made being tardy something of a status symbol. But if your friends show up one hour late, and you’ve made something like Pork Roast, which can dry out in a minute, you’re screwed. Then you’ll only be thankful for them not arriving early and catching you in your petit slip français.

In Paris, with so many Arabic and North African butchers around, it’s easy to find cuts of meat that lend themselves to slow-braising and making North African stews like Tagines. Being a pastry chef since the beginning of time, I was always a little terrified of meat, never quite knowing how to handle it. But I bravely started going into the butcher shops, inspecting the enormous slabs of meat trying to look as if I knew something about them, then I’d make my pick. Conveying how to cut it for me is another story, but most of the time, chopping my hands through the air like Helen Keller doing karate seems to get the point across. My Arabic is terrible, so most of the time, I end up bringing home a lamb shoulder, since it’s inexpensive, not terribly fatty, and most importantly…easy to point to since they keep them right in front of the butcher cases. (Ok, lamb shoulder’s also hard to ruin.)

For some reason, leaner cuts of meat usually taste better in restaurants than when I make them at home. I don’t know why. But stewing cuts of meat, like lamb shoulder, I find I can make taste equally as good, or better, than anything I get when I go out. I’ve been making Tagines for the past few years with great success and once you start with a solid master recipe, like the one below, you can vary it for different kinds of meat or poultry, and you can make them as spicy or aromatic as you want by adjusting the spices. And since most benefit from long, leisurely braise in the oven, they’re perfect when you’re entertaining guests who arrive at various times, leaving you free to assist in the all-important task of making sure you guests have plenty of cool rosé in their glasses. But don’t neglect yours either.

Lamb Tagine

You can substitute chicken for the lamb. Cut it into 8 pieces and reduce the oven time to about 1 to 1½ hours. I also like to add a handful, say about 1/2 cup (75g) toasted, blanched almonds to the stew during the final 30 minutes of braising, or some green olives. Another option is to add prunes or dried California apricots, which add a sublime sweetness. I used to add strips of salty preserved lemons, but I’d always wake up in the middle of the night ravenously thirsty and have to chug a few liters of water, so now I don’t anymore. Often Tagines are served with big hunks of softly-baked bread sprinkled with anise seeds, I prepare cracked wheat or bulgur to serve underneath with a bit of chopped parsley added at the end. I’ve find it preferable to bread of couscous since it’s a whole grain and the fabulously nutty and crunchy grains are really a delightful chew. And so guests can customize their Tagine, I pass little dishes of plumped yellow raisins, homemade sweet shallot marmalade, and chick peas.
  • 1 lamb shoulder, cut into 6 pieces (have the butcher do it)
  • Vegetable oil
  • 1 medium onion, minced
  • 1 1/2 cups (375ml) chicken stock, or water
  • 1 teaspoon dried ground ginger
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt, plus more if necessary
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • freshly-ground black pepper
  • 1 bunch cilantro, rinsed and tied with a string, coriandre
  • 20 threads of saffron
  • juice of 1/2 lemon
  • Up to three days before you plan to make the Tagine, massage the lamb shoulder with the salt and let it sit in the refrigerator before you cook it.
  • To make the Tagine, in a heavy-duty Dutch oven, heat a few tablespoons of oil and sear the lamb pieces very well, turning them only after they’re nicely dark, browned, and crusty (this helps add flavor to the Tagine.) As you cook them, don’t crowd ’em in. If your Dutch oven isn’t big enough to cook them all in a single layer at once, brown the lamb pieces in batches.
  • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (175 C). Once the lamb is browned, add the onions and some of the stock, then scrape the bottom of the pan with a flat wooden spatula to release the flavorful browned bits. Add the remaining stock, then the spices, the bunch of cilantro, and the saffron.
  • Cover the pan and bake in the oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, turning the lamb over in the liquid a few times during the oven-braising. The liquid should just be steaming-hot and simmering gently. If it’s boiling, turn down the heat (some Dutch ovens conduct heat differently.) When the meat starts to fall apart easily, that’s when it’s ready. It’s hard to overcook lamb shoulder, so even an extra hour or so in the oven won’t hurt it.
  • Remove the lid and let the Tagine remain in the oven for another 30 minutes, so the juices reduce, becoming rich and savory.


To serve, remove the cilantro and discard. Squeeze some lemon juice into the liquid and add more salt if you think it needs it. Serve mounds of cracked wheat underneath the Tagine, with lots of the juices poured over. At the table, make sure you have a tube of harissa handy, the fire-y Moroccan hot sauce, for those of us who like spicy food, as I do.

sorbet.jpgFor dessert, I recommend something fruity and refreshing, like a scoop of Sour Cherry Frozen Yogurt, from my book The Perfect Scoop.

I like it served with a fruity coulis made from red raspberries and cassis (black currants), mixed with sautéed cherries, made from the last cherries of the season, which I’m going to miss terribly.



    • Gail

    ok, we apologize again for being late due to our cell phone. (re: late 2 entries) We didn’t think the pork was that dry!

    • Matt

    I am a lamb fanatic, having grown up on my mom’s tender, flavorful lamb tacos.

    It’s time to break out the tagine and try this. Thanks so much David!

    p.s. I’m habitually and absurdly punctual. The French would be a challenge for me!

    • Alex

    Mmmmmm everything in that post sounds absolutely delightful and delicious and perfect. I’m part Lebanese, so I have a love for Arabic food. I too am very sad to see the cherries go. They dropped out of season here in the Bay Area about three weeks ago, and now all you can get are the Washington ones.

    • Diva

    was just craving Morrocan preserved lemons.. thanks
    your dessert foto is fab! congrats!

    • michèle

    hey, I thought you were president of the Picard fan club? I heard they have to send an extra recycling truck to your neighbourhood just because of all the Picard boxes you discard..

    • Kevin

    I have to echo Matt’s sentiment about being habitualy on time–I’d be a Parisian dork. At least I’d have my pick of the appetizers!

    • Kevin

    I made a chicken tagine this weekend. The olives and ceci are both good ideas.

    • Cathy

    David, I can’t wait to try your recipe — and good timing too since we just bought a tagine last week! And the butchers scare me too, but I just chalked it up to the meat not being cut the same way in France as in the US.

    • brenda

    Do you use whole grain bulgar or the kind used for tabouli ? THANKS, the dish sounds great!

    • noah

    I know this is an old post, but just wanted to tell you that we had a bunch of people over for dinner last night and cooked this. It was really successful! And it’s a great dish for serving guests – like you said, it lets you focus on other things when the people show up.

    • violette kogut

    I have learn how to make a tajine in Morocco, it’s very easy to make and not always to be put into the oven,one can cook it over the stove top.
    By the way I am French and we are on time for an invitation-otherwise it’s very impolite to arrive late.

    • David

    Violette: Yes, many people do make tajine on the stovetop. How fun to learn in Morocco!

    I was always told that in Paris, if you’re invited for dinner, one should respect the l’heure d’apéro, and arrive 15-20 minutes after the invited time. Although that might be a Parisian truc ; )

    • Bobbie Zenebe

    I made the lamb tagine last night and it was fantastic. There are different versions of this recipe and david thanks for simplifying it. I also baked your banana bread recipe a couple of days ago and it was to die for. I’m now getting many requests from friends to make it again. I live in London and we’ve a huge Morrocan community, some of the best Tagine you can find on this side of the channel. So please feel free to drop us a line if you venture out to this side of the channel, and we’d be glad to show you around. Thanks David.

    • Alison Wheatcroft

    I am not a ‘sweet’ person but my son gave me The Perfect Scoop from which I have made numerous ice creams which have been wonderful. So glad to see your savoury recipes. I will try your tajine recipe. Many thanks for your inspired puddings.



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