Aux Tonneaux des Halles
[Update: Aux Tonneaux des Halles changed owners in 2016. They no longer feature natural wines and the food on the current menu differs from what is shown and described here.] Every once in a while, it hits me: I need steak-frites. It’s an infrequent indulgence, but when I do have it, I like my steak with a crisp exterior, pan-seared until saignant (medium-rare), with a large…