Located a few blocks north of the Place des Vosges, steps away from the hubbub of tourists clogging the sidewalks, is Café des Musées, which is a great new dining address in Paris.
Chef François Chenel makes his own pâtes and smokes his own organic salmon, which arrives with a spoonful of crème fraîche, chives, and toasted levain bread. Both are also available, plus pre-cooked lobes of foie gras to take home even if you're not dining there. (Menu here.)
We split an order of grouse. One of the great things about living in France is in the winter (which this summer felt like), restaurants often feature game like partridge, wild pigeon, and other fowl. The grouse was dark meaty-red, just as ordered. Alongside were triangles of braised celery root, a pile of dressed watercress and quetsches, Italian prune plums that were cooked until jam-like but as unctuous and sweet as I would have liked: I would've added a shot of port in the deglazing.
Other menu options are a well-crusted Entrecôte steak, served with perhaps the best French fries I've had in Paris (we were smart and double-ordered right from the start), cochon noir de Bigorre (which looks like a licorice pig), a do-it-yourself steak tartare and a cocotte of seasonal vegetables for those wanting something lighter or vegetarian.
For dessert, we shared a raspberry Dacquoise; a slightly-crisp almond meringue which had a nice cake-like chew. It was served with excellent, dark cherry-red raspberries which were so sweet they were syrupy.
For those on a budget, both lunch and dinner offer a prix-fixe option. Last night it was vichyssoise and foie de veau, veal liver, with dessert for just 19€. The prix-fix at lunch is currently just 12€.
The service a bit scattered, but that to me is the charm of eating in a neighborhood-type restaurant where people just go for good food but are welcome to linger. It's the kind of place where the tables are pushed close together so you're rubbing shoulders with your neighbors and perhaps sharing a basket of good bread. That's one of the pleasures of dining in lesser-known Parisian restaurants and cafés.
I was, however, disappointed that when I went back the next day to see if I could take a picture to share. But they wouldn't let me.
(C'est comme ça...but quelle dommage...)
My friends and I shared a bottle—ok, two bottles—of fruity gamay from the Touraine which went very nicely with everything from the charcuterie to the game and through the dessert. And afterwards as well.
Café des Musées (Map)
49, rue de Turenne (3rd)
Tél: 01 42 72 96 17
Maybe the mean French lady told them not to let you take a photo!
...ha ha...that gave me a good chuckle!...
I've been vegetarian for over a decade, and rarely miss eating meat. But descriptions of French food often make me question my commitment...
Thank you for the mouth-watering start to my day, and for the recommendation. This looks like an address worth filing away
Mallow: Well, if you do decide to make the switch, you'd better get here quick: I just brought home another 5# of pork shoulder for more carnitas.
Ay carumba!
This little bisro detailed review is FUN!
Like being there...
I love the shot you got!
Forget about the restaurant...is that Willy Wonka riding by on a bicycle?! o_0
I am soooooo moving to Paris!
Perfect timing! I'm headed to Paris this week, it'll be fun to check out a new spot ... Thanks for the tip David - any leftover carnitas?? ;-) Amy
MadCarlotta: Well, if that was indeed Johnny Depp—do you think I'd be taking pictures of the front of some corner café...or sharing pics of Monsieur Depp with my deserving readers?
Depp? Gene Wilder is the true Wonka