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« Recipes To Use Up Leftover Egg Whites Clotilde's Very Chocolate Cookies September 10, 2007
Recently I met up with Clotilde, who writes the popular Chocolate & Zucchini blog, for a drink one afternoon. I ordered a glass of wine and she, a mineral water. Although there was a large, unopened bottle of Badoit sparkling water standing prominently behind the bar, ripe for the taking, the serveuse told us they didn't have any bottled water. Of course, neither one of us questioned that. But when she left to fetch our drinks, we both looked at each other, wrinkled up our perplexed faces, then shrugged it off. It's nice to know the locals find things as curious around here as I do. Speaking of curious French things, if you're a regular reader of Chocolate & Zucchini, you're privy to her charming stories about her life in Paris accompanied by recipes. And you unless you've been hiding like a bottle of Badoit behind the bar, you've likely heard of her new book: Chocolate & Zucchini: Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen.
Before I met Clotilde, I was certain she was some burly truck-driver from Wisconsin pulling a fast one over on us all. But when we met face-to-face, she was even more charming if that's possible, than she is on her site. And when she handed me a galley of her book (a rough, pre-publication examplaire of her efforts) and asked me to write a quote, I was delighted to do so. When I got home, I parked myself on the couch and read it cover-to-cover. It was wonderful. For anyone who's skeptical about the direction of French cuisine among the next generation (and I'm not naming any names), Clotilde's recipes are a refreshing breath of sensible air. Her cooking is seasonal, market-fresh and many of her takes on the French classics have just a bit of a personal twist that ushers them deliciously into the next generation. There's lots of recipes that I want to try, and not just the desserts. Aside from the Honey Financiers and her famously-simple Yogurt Cake, as soon as the weather gets cooler, I'm firing up the oven to make her beer-enriched Flemish Carbonades and the Lamb and Prune Meatballs using the super-plump and moist pruneaux d'Agen. I wanted to make her Very Chocolate Cookies for the very longest of times, except I had, like, fourteen batches of chocolate cookie dough in the freezer leftover from some recipe testing I was doing and I didn't want to launch another batch without using up what I had first. But even I can't resist the charms of a young French woman. And soon the temptation became too great; her darned book on my coffee table was staring at me night and day, saying "When are you going to make those Triple Chocolate Cookies?" And really, who could resist the image of the dark-as-nuit chocolate cookie teetering on the edge of a cold glass of milk? So I got out the chocolate and started chopping away.
And because there are some people out there that can't help themselves from we can change recipes and expect them to come out the same (and we definitely know who we are...) I thought I'd make my cookies more American-sized than she does. But when larger, I found they're a bit more chancy to pick up so I would follow Clotilde's instructions and make them smaller. If you want larger cookies, make each one from 1 tablespoon of dough and bake for about 20 minutes. For the cookies, I used Green & Black's 70% organic chocolate and Vahlrona cocoa powder. If you don't have cocoa nibs, you can leave them out but I can't emphasize how really good they are in these cookies. Since I was serving these after a Mexi-Fest, I opted to dust the tops with a soupçon of sel cannelle, a very strong cinnamon salt I like. But you could use any good sea salt, like grains of fleur de sel
1. In a small bowl, sift both flours, cocoa powder and baking soda together. 2. In a clean, dry bowl set over a pan of simmering water (or in a microwave), melt half of the chocolate (2½ oz, 70g), then let cool to room temperature. Mix the other half of the chocolate chunks a bowl with the cocoa nibs. 3. Beat the butter with a standing electric mixer, or by hand, just until smooth. Beat in the sugar, salt and vanilla or chocolate extract. 4. By hand, stir in the melted chocolate, then the flour-cocoa mixture. Then finally the chocolate chunks and nibs. 5. Scoop the dough into rounded teaspoons and place evenly-spaced on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle with cinnamon salt or fleur de sel, if desired, then bake for 10-12 minutes or until the cookies take on a slightly dry sheen to the top. They may feel soft, but don't worry; they're firm up just fine when cool.
** Chocolate extract is an interesting product which I was introduced to after I'd written my first book. I got a letter from Ben Katzenstein who attended the college as I did although we never met, and he mentioned his family had a company that made extracts, Star Kay White. So he offered to send me some samples. I fell in love with their chocolate extract, which is made by steeping cocoa beans in alcohol—it adds another chocolate-flavored dimension to baked goods and ice creams and I find myself adding half-capful or so to most chocolate things I make.
Comments This recipe reminds me of the best chocolate cookie ever, the Korova cookie, one of Pierre Hermé's best recipe for the only reason that I absolutely adore chocolate with fleur de sel...The cocoa nibs seem like a great addition though ... (seems like those nibs are popping everywhere lately David!!!!) Posted by flavia at September 10, 2007 7:33 AM So now, after finally just buying your book, you have make a good case for why I need to buy Clotilde's book too. Those recipes sound incredible and those cookies look divine. Posted by izzy's mama at September 10, 2007 9:51 AM Yesterday read your piece on egg whites and had to try the chocolate and coconut macarons. They were just a bit of heaven and oooh I ate too many. Interesting...my corner market only had Ghirardelli 60% bittersweet chips...a brand I usually stay away from, preferring Scharffenberger for baking. But the Ghirardelli chips tasted great with the coconut and...oh I ate too many. Thanks Posted by Fred at September 10, 2007 10:36 AM I have all the required ingredients at home! Isn't that a sign that I have to make them today? Thanks for posting this recipe.And I enjoy reading your blog! :) Posted by Mandy at September 10, 2007 12:08 PM Mandy: I made them last night, and today I only have 3 left. So let me know when they come out of the oven—I'll be right over. izzy's mama: Good thing you got my book when you did. I've implanted a secret microchip in each copy and as of next month, only book owners will be have access the super top-secret, well-hidden categories of this blog that contain my deepest-held thoughts which are unavailable to anyone else. Prepare to be shocked, excited, perplexed, anxious and maybe even a bit titillated. Clotilde's book I'm not sure has one, but it's a great read and the recipes, like these cookies, are really enticing. Posted by David at September 10, 2007 12:14 PM "You know those folks who love to find mistakes in recipes?" Well, I don't think I'm one of them, but I did find myself wondering what oven temperature to use for this (delicious-looking) cookie recipe... Posted by George at September 10, 2007 2:47 PM George: It was in there, but you perhaps didn't have the top-secret microchip embedded that allowed access to the oven temperature. As a courtesy, I added it so it's now visible to all. Posted by David at September 10, 2007 2:57 PM hi david--can you tell me where to find cocoa nibs in paris? and can you mix cinnamon and sea salt to make your special cinnamon salt? (where do you get that btw?) thanks in advance... Posted by haapi at September 10, 2007 3:14 PM Clotilde seems so nice, like someone who just "gets it"... Posted by Lesley at September 10, 2007 4:14 PM Reading your blog about Clotilde's cookies made be have another piece of her Chocolate & Zucchini Cake which I made last night. I love her book and agree that her recipes are best if followed exactly. First time I made the cake, I used semi-sweet chocolate chips, because that is what I had on hand. Cake is definitely better with bittersweet chocolate. I've also made the Mustard Chicken Stew which was wonderful, except I didn't quite get what to do with the garlic paste. All and all, a beautiful book. btw, Your blog is wonderful! Posted by Diane at September 10, 2007 8:54 PM David, you are RIGHT ON. First you've been providing regular articles & recipes on gelato & ice cream this season at the height of my interest in eating & making them. For my birthday I received The Perfect Scoop along with the ICE 50BCC. I'm churning! THEN, as I'm tiring of scrambled egg whites with shredded cheddar, you come along with ways-with-egg-whites. And NOW, some GREAT chocolate cookies from a fellow food artist. I just made them - they spread gracefully, are moist/crisp without being chewy or crunchy. Very pleasant texture. And I love how they have some whole wheat in them. Thanks for presenting great food for thought - your own & those of others. I look forward to your entries every day. Posted by Car at September 10, 2007 9:30 PM David, Posted by Lesley at September 11, 2007 9:20 AM What is with that?! I LOVE the Badoit, (though I seem to prefer San Peligrino and love how cheap it is here in France) so what's up with this woman claiming to no longer have any? Were they saving it for some sort of after-hours employee gathering?! I am so annoyed by French shop owners/workers sometimes. It's as if they really enjoy having a sucky economy. :ol Posted by Mlle Smith in France at September 11, 2007 12:40 PM Mlle Smith: It's just one of those quirky things, where the first word is "Non", then you have to talk them into it. But sometimes you just don't question it (like when my bank told me "we don't have any change") and save yourself the frustration and just get a good laugh from it. It was amusing and it's nice to know that French folks find these things as odd as we do. Lesley: I would freeze the uncooked dough. Aside from them tasting better freshly-baked, the cookies are too delicate to last in the freezer. But once you taste one, I doubt they'd make it into the freezer to begin with. haapi: You can get cocoa nibs at G. Detou. They sell them by the kilo, but they're only about 12€, which is a deal. And they last for quite a while (or you can split a bag with someone.) For the salt, you can click on the link to see where in France I get mine. Posted by David at September 11, 2007 1:02 PM "Before I met Clotilde, I was certain she was some burly truck-driver from Wisconsin pulling a fast one over on us all." Why hate on Wisconsin? We have offered so much to the culinary world - fine dairy products (who can resist squeaky cheese curds?), good beers (Leinie's, anyone?), delicious Door County cherries and so much more! We love everyone (well, except people from Illinois) - so show us some love right back! Christy, a Wisconsin girl living in Florida Posted by Christy at September 11, 2007 1:35 PM I have a friend who recently became allergic to chocolate and seeing this post makes me really, really sad for her. These cookies look amazing! That gooey part is staring me in the face... Posted by Hillary at September 11, 2007 3:13 PM I just made these, and let me say...wow!! First of all, a glass of milk is in order during and after preparation...for the dough (so good!) and then for the cookies. Posted by Lesley at September 11, 2007 4:30 PM Christy: Who's got anything against Wisconsin? And who's got anything against big, burly truck drivers? Posted by David at September 11, 2007 5:55 PM Thank you for the comment about the Valrhona cocoa powder. Recipe calls for Dutch process cocoa powder, which is not available in local stores. I have Valrhona in my pantry, and assumed it was not suitable since it was not "Dutch process." So thank you for that little tidbit -- I'm off to make the cookies now! Love love your blog! Posted by Elaine at September 12, 2007 7:14 AM Hi Elaine: All European cocoa powders are Dutched—although there may be some that aren't, I've never seen them. The notation is mostly for those in the US, where Dutched and 'Natural' cocoa powder are available and in some recipes they're not interchangable. In the US, "Dutched' brands include Droste, Valrhona and even Hershey's, which makes a Dutch-process chocolate (that's similar to the black-ish stuff they use for Oreos), and others are available. And natural cocoa powders, brands like ScharffenBerger, regular Hershey's and Nestlé's are the most commonly available. When in doubt, look at the ingredients. Often a Dutching agent like potassium bromate or carbonate will be listed in the ingredients. I think in the US they have to list it, although elsewhere, I don't think it's required. Sometimes it's also labeled 'alkalized' cocoa instead of Dutched. Glad you're enjoying the blog and hope you like the cookies as much as I do. Or did! Posted by David at September 12, 2007 8:57 AM I just noticed for the flours that the weight conversions are different for the whole wheat and regular flour, but the volumes are the same. If I substitute all regular flour, should I use the weight of 70 grams? The recipe looks delicious and I can't wait to try it. Posted by Janet at September 23, 2007 2:40 PM Janet: It's because whole wheat flour is coarser so that was the metric equivalent I got when I measured adn weighed it out. If using all-purpose, I would go with the 70g. Posted by David at September 23, 2007 3:08 PM
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