Gluten-Free Eating and Dining in Paris

Check an online dictionary here, although I recommend a good French Menu Translator. Although there's plenty of people who speak English, many of the grains and other terms, and their names in English, may be unfamiliar to them.

When people think of Paris, they think of old bistros and bustling brasseries. But Paris has some great ethnic restaurants, including Ethiopian restaurants which bake with teff instead of wheat (although you should confirm to be sure), as well as a slew of great Asian restaurants clustered in the 13th arrondissement.

Chinese restaurants abound in the city, although they do use soy sauce, there's lots of Vietnamese and Laotian places with big salads and rice noodle dishes. Le Bambou is a favorite.

There's also a new appreciation for les sushis in Paris. Aside from the mediocre spots springing up all over town, there's some very good options on or near the rue St. Anne, by the Place de l'Opéra. You may wish to buy wheat-free tamari at one of the natural food stores listed above and bring it along.

(Here's a list of authentic Japanese restaurants.)

Take with you some gluten-free energy bars and what-not to carry around and hold you over in case you get hungry and all that's open are bakeries.

They may seem icky to you, but when you're starving in an airport or train station, where the pickings may be slim, you'll be thankful.

Sure it's nice to go out to eat. But it's equally fun to shop in a Parisian supermarket or outdoor market. It's also a great way to sample lots of the cheeses, make big salads, sample the fruits, and enjoy other specialties that you can't always get in restaurants.

Look for signs for traiteurs, gloriously-stocked take-out shops. And keep an eye for things that are de maison, or a similar term containing the word 'maison', that means they're made on-premises and should know exactly what's in them and how they're prepared.

And don't be afraid to ask questions—French people love to talk about food!

Servers in France are much busier than their American counterparts since they don't have busboys, runners, etc...and dining rooms are short-staffed. So make their job easier since they may not have time to play charades with you, and blow you off. Don't take it personally; just realize they're busy. Keep it brief so they're more likely to read it.

You can find cards to print out in French here.

Although it's tempting to try lots of place, most Parisians themselves go to the same restaurants over and over (they call their favorite their cantine.)

Make a nearby restaurant to where you're staying your cantine where the staff knows you. Even if you're in town for just a week, by your second visit, you'll be recognized and they'll look more kindly on you and they'll be much nicer.

Also dining during slower times, the waiters and cooks will be under less stress and able to look after you better. If dining in a fine restaurant, tell them your needs when you make the reservation so they have time to prepare and it's not such a big surprise.

This is the hardest thing for Americans, who are used to the 'Customer Is King' concept. In France, you may find people less-accommodating that you're used to. There's not much you can do to change it (and believe me, don't try to either).

Instead, work with it.

Once you throw yourself at the waiter's mercy, they're likely to take better care of you. And when your health is concerned, you want them on your side. French people can be quite helpful: You just need to make them want to be so.

If for some reason they're not taking you seriously, or you're concerned that you may be getting something with gluten in it, it's okay to leave before ordering. Apologize for leaving, thank them, and leave. If you make a scene, you'll regret it. Don't let it ruin your vacation. Just move on.

If you've already ordered or been served, nicely ask the waiter if you have any concerns without being accusatory. If you're unsure, just drink the wine and ask for a plate of cheese or a salad with oil and vinegar à parte, on the side, since bottled dressings (which are used frequently) often have wheat starch. Or ask for some fruit.

In France, it's very rare to return food or to change food once it's brought to the table (or even after it's been ordered) so you're likely to be charged for the meal even if you don't eat it or it's not to your liking. Or has gluten in it.

Once again, don't let something minor ruin your vacation. Imagine if a non-English speaking person came to America with a strict dietary need that was not well-known. Imagine how they'd be treated.

And if you're frustrated, take another sip of wine and let out an exasperated *sigh*...you'll fit right in amongst the Parisians!

Bon Appétit!

Links

My post, Ten Insanely-Good Things You Shouldn't Miss in Paris: Don't be put off by the photos of bread! There's plenty of great suggestions that are gluten-free.

Visit Shauna at Gluten-Free Girl.com

National Foundation for Celiac Awareness (US)

l'Association Francaise Des Intolérants Au Gluten: French Association of Gluten Intolerants (in French)

Gluten-Free Passport Travel Guide for France & Italy

Living Gluten-Free For Dummies

Schär Gluten-Free Products: Available in Europe—site has search engine for stores which stock their products in France.

The American Hospital of Paris has English-speaking doctors in case you need medical care. You will likely have to pay out-of-pocket then apply for reimbursement when you get home, if you're American.