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During the current lockdown in Paris, you can still get most things at the supermarket. True, there’s less of a selection as some items are more popular than others; butter, of course, is popular, and so is flour. Fortunately I always have a good stock of both on hand, lockdown or not, but I did neglect to replenish my chocolate supply. But the pasta and rice aisles have suffered the most damage, and the selection of what’s available has been sparse.

Since I’m limiting my time going out, and food shopping, the other day I went to the frozen food store, Picard. Everyone in France loves Picard, although I’m usually happy to dice an onion and don’t need to buy frozen pre-diced onions, nor do I need to buy ice cream. (Theirs is rather good, but I’ve usually got several batches of my own in the freezer.) But I was craving pizza and they have a frozen one with arugula and speck that’s pas mal, as they say in French, which actually means “not bad.” However frozen pizza seems to be as popular as rice and pasta, so I had to get another kind that wasn’t so great (pas terrible.) But I did pick up a bag of those onions and some ground beef because I’ve also been craving Pasta Bolognese, and they were there, and so was I. So I caved.

I’m not going to get into the controversy of what is, and what isn’t, Bolognese because we have more pressing things to think about at the moment. But it gave me the chance to try the famous recipe from Marcella Hazan, who wrote several highly-regarding cookbooks on Italian cooking. (Although a few readers from Italy had something to say about it when they saw me adding butter to the sauce when I made this à la Marcella, on social media. If I’m not mistaken, butter is churned milk, which is an ingredient in the classic. But let’s give them a lot of leeway at the moment.)

Being Italian, Marcella certainly had strong opinions, too. She railed against the overuse of garlic that she felt unbalanced a dish, and used more butter than any Italian cook would. Her famous tomato sauce has only four ingredients, and one of them is 5 ounces/140g of butter. I haven’t made that but I’ve heard it’s a life-changing tomato sauce. (And frankly, life-changing sounds good right about now.) Marcella was fond of butter and also used it in her Bolognese.

I do remember one time when I was in Italy, staying in a friend’s apartment, and went to the local grocer to get a few items. One was a packet of butter, and when I was checking out the fellow behind the counter made sure to hold it up to tell me, “This is for breakfast!” I guess he wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to cook or bake with it.

Also making Bolognese gave me a chance to use some of San Marzano tomatoes I bought at Terroirs d’Avenir, where I went to get some produce a week or so ago. (Is anyone else having trouble keeping track of says, and time, these days?) For some reason, they had #10 cans (5 pounds, 10 ounces/2550g) of the deeply-flavored, famous canned tomatoes, and was happy to see them sold in bulk. Most people do their shopping every few days in Paris, and only the hardy would go through that many tomatoes. If I could turn some of those tomatoes into chocolate, I’d be even happier.

It also gave me the chance to finally use this interesting 3-section Gien dish I got at a flea market years ago.

This Bolognese sauce may be a little unconventional but if you knew Marcella, she was not someone you wanted to pick a fight with. I met her twice. Once when she came to dinner at a restaurant I worked at. At the time, the coat rack for guests was near the pastry area and when I saw the enormous mink coat she wore into the restaurant being hung up on the coat rack, well, I don’t think I need to tell you know what I had to do: Try it on! Which I did, and for a moment, I felt like Marcella. (The cigarette smoke that clung to the coat also helped me get into the mood.) Another time I was at a dinner and seated to her left. The waiter came by and told her that one course was going to have Parmesan cheese on it, and specifically said in her direction that Parmesan cheese wasn’t the stuff in the green can, and he was going to explain it to her.

After his explanation and he left the table, she turned to look at me, with her signature glass of Jack Daniel’s in one hand, and said, “What the f*ck is he talking about?”

I didn’t want to ‘f’ with Marcella’s recipe but made a few changes. I kept the butter in, but toggled the quantities of other ingredients, as well as the cooking time since three (or four) hours was a long, long time, and mine tasted great after one hour but was even better after a second hour. If you have one of those slow-cookers or Instant pressure cookers, you could likely adapt this Bolognese to one of those. I don’t know what Marcella would have to say about that, so if you do, that can just be our little secret.

Pasta Bolognese

There are a few Marcella Hazan Pasta Bolognese recipes out there. I tweaked a few of them to come up with this recipe, which is inspired and adapted by her. Note that this sauce will take a while to prepare. It's mostly downtime. At first, you're just sauteeing ingredients, stirring until they're combined, then adding wine and milk, simmering and stirring until those have been absorbed. Once the tomatoes have been added, that's when you let the sauce cook at the lowest heat possible, stirring every once in a while, until it's ready. Within an hour, it comes together into a nice paste, but if you cook it another hour, nursing it with water as you go, you'll get a sauce with a richer flavor. One of Hazan's recipes says to cook sauce Bolognese for up to 4 hours! In the "untraditional" category, some people like to grate from Parmesan cheese over finished bowls of pasta.
Course Main Course
Keyword mushrooms
Servings 4 servings
  • 3 tablespoons butter, salted or unsalted, plus 1 tablespoon for finishing the pasta
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 cup (60g) diced onions
  • 1/2 cup (65g) diced celery
  • 1/2 cup (65g) diced carrots, (peeled)
  • 12 ounces (340g) ground beef, (I recommend using one that's at least 15% fat)
  • 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
  • freshly-ground black pepper
  • 3/4 cup (180ml) whole milk
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
  • 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine
  • 1 1/2 cups (350ml) canned plum tomatoes, crushed, with their juice
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 pound (450g) pasta
  • Melt the butter with the olive oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the celery and carrots and cook, stirring a few times, until they start to wilt, 3 to 4 minutes.
  • Add the ground beef, salt, and some freshly ground pepper. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the beef is no longer raw on the outside. Pour in the milk, and cook at a steady simmer, stirring occasionally, until the milk is absorbed. Add a dusting of nutmeg and the wine, and continue to cook until the wine is mostly absorbed. (These steps can take a bit longer than you think, maybe 10 to 15 minutes of so, but this isn't a sauce to be rushed.)
  • Add the tomatoes in their juice and the tomato paste. Let come close to a boil then lower the heat to as low as possible until the sauce is just barely bubbling. Cook the sauce uncovered for 1 hour, stirring every once in a while, until most of the liquid is absorbed but the mixture is still wet, rich and thick. (There's a picture of it in the spoon, in the post.) You can use the sauce now, or if you want to give it some extra attention, you can cook it for another hour, adding up to 1/2 cup (125ml) of water, little by little as it continues to cook, and stirring occasionally, to make the sauce even more unctuous.
  • Taste and add salt, if desired.
  • To serve, cook the pasta in lightly salted water as directed on the package. (Before draining, reserve a little of the pasta cooking water.) Drain the pasta and toss the hot pasta in the Bolognese sauce with 1 tablespoon of butter. If the sauce needs a bit of thinning out, add a parsimonious splash of the reserved pasta water.

Notes

Storage: The Bolognese sauce will keep for up to four days in the refrigerator. It can be rewarmed on the stovetop with a little bit of water, until ready to use. It can also be frozen for up to three months.

101 comments

    • Sharon Wichmann

    Ah, yes. That’s the recipe I always use for Bolognese. Great comfort, but today this girl is going for fried chicken and mashed potatoes.

    • Ourania M

    Good morning David,
    I am enjoying your witty writing! Sometimes, I read your posts for your beautiful way of recording life rather reading it for the recipe! I love your courage to try on the coat :) Be well, regards from sunny Athens!

      • Peggy B

      I agree. I often read the whole post just to enjoy David’s writing even when I know I will not make the recipe.

      • Zoe

      I wanted to make this but didn’t get around to starting until late in the afternoon so adapted for the Instant Pot. Was delicious (more so than Instant Pot dedicated recipe I’ve tried), though of course not sure how it’d compare to 2 hours of stove top simmering. For those who might also want to try, I did all the first steps in the Instant Pot on saute mode, but left the milk to the end. Cooked on high pressure for 20 minutes then manually released. Turned sauté function back on and added the milk and let simmer for 5+ minutes to thicken. I reduced amount of wine and milk slightly (by ~1/3-1/4) since you don’t lose liquid at all while it’s pressure cooking. Took just over 45 minutes from start to finish!

    • Catherine

    I’ve been buying and using frozen soffritto here in the UK, as well as frozen onions and frozen mashed potatoes. I wonder if Marcella would be appalled.

      • Jill

      David, after the meat browns with the vegetables, do you drain the fat? Thanks!

        • David
        David Lebovitz

        There wasn’t any fat the two times I made it this week. If there is, you could drain some of it off.

      • Gill Catterall

      I make a batch of sofrito and freeze it in 4 or 5 portions. It’s easy and relaxing, chopping the veg.

    • Chantal

    Thanks for making me laugh during these trying times. I love your style, David. And butter is so divine, n’est pas?

    • Ellen A.

    Not having been to Bologna (yet – will add going there to the list of Italian cities to see post-virus), I had what I always expected would be the best Bolognese of my life in a small Italian restaurant in Sausalito. There was an irresistible creaminess to it, so different from East Coast Italian tomato sauces. Now I get it, it’s the milk, butter and nutmeg. Bless you (and Marcella, despite her fur coat) for this. Be well, and stay safe.

      • Kris

      Do you remember the name of the Italian restaurant in Sausalito?
      Wonder if it is still there….

        • Kathy

        Poggio … it’s still there, open for takeout only during these times.

      • Evelyn

      Definitely add Bologna to your list. I was there last September for the first time and I’m looking forward to returning. Wonderful food, food shopping, and people.

        • David
        David Lebovitz

        Yes, it’s a great place. And also nearby Modena – a terrific market and all that wonderful balsamic vinegar! #swoon

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    Catherine: I can’t speak for her but most people agree that feeding yourself/ourselves any way that’s available, in a time of difficulty, is of utmost importance. And many classical and traditional dishes were born out of using what’s available, using things up, etc. like cassoulet and bouillabaisse, not frantically sourcing for “the right” ingredients. (Yes, fresh is best, imho, but hard to be a stickler for that at the moment!)

    Sharon: Fried chicken sounds very good right now. And since what you eat on lockdown doesn’t count (I’ve been eating cookies galore…) – enjoy your fried chicken!

    Ourania: Thanks so much & glad you’re enjoying the blog :)

    • Charlotte K

    The famous recipe is my go to quick tomato sauce these days. I love a leisurely weekend making Bolognese too.

    Last time I was in Italy I was told I couldn’t have a second glass of wine because I’d finished my lunch, that I needed to have something to eat with it. I think that in spite of the rep for good living, they have a lot of food rules. So I laughed at your butter story.

      • Martin

      Charlotte: Probably not exactly the case in Italy, but in the more, uh, “reserved” country of Canada (specifically in BRITISH Columbia), there are or have been until recently some very strict rules on the books that affect what you can do in a “cabaret” (aka any establishment with a liquor licence).

      For example, if you’re a restaurant with a liquor licence, then you can’t have empty floor space akin to a dance floor because that encourages dancing.
      Dancing mixed with alcohol is just too… unseemly, apparently (unless you’re a dance bar — different kind of licence). Also, until a friend of mine who owns a movie theater mounted a giant campaign against it (and won!), there was a rule that you can’t have alcohol served in movie theaters. Not even beer.

      It’s all very byzantine and draconian and a bunch of other regressive words. And you grow up with the laws and become them: “Alcohol without an accompanying meal? Well, that’s just not done!”

      Anyway, I’m sure in Italy the rules are driven more by concerns for your palate instead of some kind of arbitrary post-Puritanical, post-Protestant propriety. :)

        • Joycelyn

        I also live in British Columbia and know of the theatre you speak of. Why the permit to drink alcohol while watching a movie was ever granted is a mystery to a good many Canadians including myself. The theatre you speak of is a small local theatre that cannot accommodate many patrons, it is not a major entertainment venue like the Queen Elizabeth or Orpheum where alcoholic drinks can be purchased before or during intermission at events/shows, and of which I fully support as no alcohol can be taken to the seating area when intermission is over.
        That said.
        I do not support the same for small movie theatres. You go to a movie theatre to watch a movie, total time in your seat is usually less than 3 hours with the rare exception of a major block buster. Often times there will be children in the theatre too, be they with you or with other parents.
        why on earth are any of you who fully supported permitting this small movie theatre to serve booze during a movie that desperate you feel you need alcoholic drinks while watching the movie? Seriously, If your self restraint regarding drinking alcohol is that bad, methinks you might have a problem.

        • Joycelyn

        Also, if you’re a restaurant with a liquor licence and live music, patrons are free to dance on the dance floor.
        If you’re a restaurant with a liquor license that plays canned/piped/background music diners can’t just jump up and dance to a song they might like especially with wait staff moving about everywhere. It’s called using common sense.
        As for your addition “Alcohol without an accompanying meal?” Well, that’s just not done”!
        Not sure what Metro Vancouver restaurant you’re referring to but that rule is no longer true, you can order a drink in a restaurant without ordering food. There’s also the difference in legal age to take into considering too, which makes servers having to be forever on the alert. In the majority of Provinces the legal drinking age is 19 but in Manitoba and Quebec it is 18, so if you don’t understand it’s not always that simple serving drinks without food was for a good long time not permitted due to constantly having to ID prospective drinkers, you’ll never understand it.
        You know, for someone who I’m assuming professes to be a Canadian as well as a metro Vancouverite, I don’t get why you seem to be going out of your way to make a mockery of the great country and cities we are lucky to live in. Might I suggest you do a little research on how people have to live in third world or war torn countries who hope desperately they will someday be able to immigrate to Canada.

          • Kate

          She sounds fun.

    • Martin

    David: I searched for it on the blog but couldn’t find it, and I don’t recall you mentioning anything in Sweet Life, but… have you ever unraveled the mystery of why half the pasta sauce aisle in Paris is “Bolognese”?

      • susan

      because it is usually the best

        • Joycelyn

        Ha! Best response ever!

    • Victoria

    I love you because you gave me THE BEST EVER recipe for split pea soup, your financiers, and your poulet a la moutarde, but most of all because today of all days you made me laugh out loud picturing you in that mink coat! My Italian-American grandmother (youngest of 8, first born in America) used to make homemade manicotti using crespelle instead of tubes of pasta. I often stuff them with this Bolognese instead of the usual cheese filling, turning it into cannelloni, I guess. The crespelle ratio, is 2 large eggs, ¾ cup all-purpose flour, 1 cup water. I whir the ingredients in my Vitamix and let sit for one hour before making. Now try the onion/butter/tomato sauce. If I’m stuck having vegetarians to dinner, I serve it over rigatoni with Parmesan cheese and a serving of lima beans cooked in cream on the same plate.

    • Mary

    Hi David,
    As a first-time commenter I’d like to ask if the celery is celery root or stalks ?
    Thanks – I love your blog !
    Mary

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Hi Mary, Normally it’s regular “stalk” celery if just celery is called for, although that may be different where you or others live (I’d be interested to know!) I also included a picture of it in the post, too. enjoy the recipe!

    • LINDA HOLLANDER

    David, bonjour,

    I’ve been such a fan for yeas, but in the last couple of weeks I’ve ramped my “David interaction” big time, and I feel as if I know you.

    I’m enjoying the drinks videos ( maybe a bit too much! ), and your emails, always a delight, are especially meaningful to me now.

    I’m a very high risk little old lady who is self quarantined. Thank the gods I keep myself busy cooking and thank you for keeping me inspired. Bon appetit.

    • Susan

    I was planning to make the famous tomato sauce for dinner tonight. Then meatballs with a pound of traditional meat loaf mix which was in my freezer and I have never used before, so unsure of taste. Would you recommend/allow :) me to use the meat mix for this bolognese? Otherwise it’s meatballs for my mother-in-law tonight! Thank you.

      • Janice M.

      I absolutely think you can use the meatloaf mix. Never tried it, but I make Marcella’s bolognese all the time and think the pork and veal would add very nice flavor. Happy cooking!

    • Carole Baker

    Here in Sydney, Australia, during our time of isolation, supermarket refrigerators are stripped of minced beef every day before 9 a.m. Australia’s comfort food is “Spag Bol” (slang) Like Paris, no pasta left on shelves and no flour. Hazan’s recipe is my favourite, just scrumptiously delicious- real comfort food. Stay well, stay safe.

    • Robin

    what great glimpses of Marcella! She is such a hero of mine. Thank you for sharing these stories (and so many others!)

    • Joy Fielder

    My grandmother- Maltese/Italian – made the bolognese , she never mixed the spaghetti with it, but it was served atop. She also always added a dash of sugar whilst the sauce was simmering…for an hour or so. Many times she would bake the whole mixture in the oven ( could be macaroni instead) The pasta was al dente before going in the oven.Topping it with Parmesan cheese, sometimes another type, but can’t remember which. Always delicious.
    Love reading your Blog & have followed you for years.

    • Andrew Lage

    Speaking of food rules, we were staying at a house on an estate in Tuscany and one afternoon while enjoying a glass of red wine the owner of the estate and his groundskeeper came by for a chat. They both declined a glass saying that wine should only be eaten with food!

      • Siri Johnson

      Hello David, I am thrilled you posted this recipe right now – and am wondering if you think that using a whole pound/16 oz of beef would be too much without scaling-up the other ingredients?

      Picard!!! I have been trying for years to remember what the frozen grocery store was called

        • David
        David Lebovitz

        I think you could for sure. There are so many variations on this recipe, some have more meat (or pancetta or liver) and less tomatoes, and others have other things going on in them. I’d just use all the beef you have and perhaps count on adding a little extra liquid at some point.

    • Lisa H.

    This is one of my all-time favorite recipes, and coincidentally I just made it again a few days ago. Trying to be relatively healthy (and also to conserve my butter), I used only 1 T. I do believe it was just as delicious! Thanks, David, for helping to keep us well-fed during this difficult time.

    • Margaret

    Years ago when I first married I bought Marcella’s first two books and made bolognese for her spinach lasagne recipe. It took all day since like you say, you cook the bolognese three to four hours. And she tells you how to make spinach pasta and bechamel, which I’d never heard of. I can’t believe I did all of that as a young inexperienced cook, but Marcella made it all seem easy. And the looks on my family’s faces when they ate made it all worthwhile. It’s still one of the most delicious dishes I know of and the most fun to serve at dinner parties.

    • Brianna DuMont

    I made this on Sunday! All I had was red wine though, and it still tasted beautiful. I also had a ball of burrata and let it melt over the top. No pasta left in our stores so I did a semolina pappardelle. (And did not get it thin enough…) but the bolognese is comforting!

    • haia cohen

    hi david what does the milk to the bolognese y also read that you can had milk to mitballs but what does it do thanksjag shameaj

    • Judith

    I have been making this for decades! When my daughter was small it was a good way to get veg into her, so I ramped up the quantity of soffritto considerably and admit I used the Cuisinart to chop it together….with success. And yes the alcohol gets burned off for any neurotic parents. But a wonderful reason to crack a bottle for any mother in need of help. .

    • Jo Barnes

    Hello,
    It’s a very comforting dish isn’t it?
    I make the Elizabeth David version that has no tomatoes only tomato paste but does have chicken livers in it, she says this is the authentic ragù. I don’t actually put the chicken livers in it and use cornflour to thicken instead.

    • Ali Masters

    Hi David,

    I love your blog: your commentary and writing, your recipes, photos and your fun sense of humor. I often feel like I can picture Paris, and your kitchen, when you write about it.
    My Bolognese recipe, shared by my best friend, almost identical to Marcella’s, just a couple of additions (a little chopped bacon and Italian sausage) and only takes half the time. But, you must try Marcella’s Tomato Butter sauce, so simple as you describe, you won’t believe how delicious and comforting it is. One of our “go to” simple comfort meals here in Bay Area, CA. And like you, we always have the ingredients on hand.
    Thank you for all you do, you bring fun and comfort to us.

    • Kathleen Dobek

    No, butter is not churned milk. It’s churned cream. There is a difference. Churned milk will never make butter. :)
    Kathleen, happily making cultured butter from crema acida (creme fraiche) in Mexico

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Cream begins its life from milk.

    • Antonio Wolfgang Bierbauer

    Congrats, always great, the most simple and lovely dish.

    • karen lander

    Hello David You are my go-to quarantine person. I’ve made your chocolate chip kitchen sink cookies, and the fruit bars….both are wonderful.
    I am going to try your version of the Bolognese. I’ve made Marcellas for years and the last time it was way too dried out…I cooked it for hours…maybe the meat, I don’t know…changes in beef over 20 years, I imagine, or maybe the cooking time is just too long. Can’t wait to try yours.
    BTY I loved the image of you wrapping yourself in her mink…at Chez Panisse, I imagine? I love love love your joie de vivre, your chutzpah.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I found that after 1 1/2 hrs the sauce was drying out so much that adding more and more water didn’t need like it would really be necessary. I made it twice before posting the recipe and had that experience. I consulted with a few friends in the U.S. who knew the recipe and they cook it longer, but one said he keeps adding a lot of water. Often beef in France is tougher than U.S. beef. But figured with the fat content the same, it would react the same as well. So perhaps give this one a try. And yes, I remember so vividly trying on her coat..but I won’t say where! ;)

      • Phil

      We use nice rich high-fat beef. The water doesn’t evaporate if it’s under a thick layer of delicious beef fat. Marcella is pretty clear about leaving all the fat in the sauce. Why discard all that nourishment?

    • Eydie Desser

    HI David….thank you for this recipe. My husband loves Bolognese sauce. What is the name of the pasta shape you used in this recipe? It’s beautiful! Thank you! Eydie Desser

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      On the bag it’s called Torciglioni. It’s similar to Rigatoni. There wasn’t a lot of pasta on the shelves so was glad I had a bag in my cupboard :)

    • Elizabeth

    Hola from Baja California Sur where we are isolating in place. I’ve been wanting to make pasta Bolognese so this recipe came at the perfect moment. Unfortunately no Italian canned tomatoes but we’re just getting by here in Todos Santos. Thank you for all your posts, I’m a fan. Cheers!

    • Valerie

    I will never again look at “The Classic Italian Cookbook” without imagining Marcella Hazan in a mink coat, smoking, and using the “f-word.”
    Thank you, David, for sharing your memories!

    • Vesna

    Amazing! I made it today and it was incredible. I cooked it for 1.5 hours and used Chianti instead of white wine. David, your recipes never disappoint. Will make it again. 

    • susan

    I love your humor! You are the best
    I remember reading your great book
    A Sweet Life in Paris and laughing out loud so many times!
    I am a retired French teacher and now come to Paris twice a year.
    Your honesty is so beautiful as so many people are afraid to say it as it is.

    • Kim

    I was in Bologna just before the quarantine and spent a day taking a cooking class. The “official” recipe we were taught had red wine (Sangiovese) and cooked for a good 3 hours. No butter, no milk, no garlic. It was made with beef and pork and a tablespoon of tomato paste. It was diluted with water or broth while it cooked to keep it from sticking. It was fabulous! We have since made it at home with the same delicious results.

    • marilee Reyes

    Your comment about butter for breakfast reminded me of something my son encountered on his first cooking job out of culinary school. He was working for an Italian gentleman named Davide who learned to cook in his family restaurant somewhere in Italy. Davide told him that an early age his father explained that the French cooked with butter and Italians “never” did and to do so could result in being disowned. Of course, he had to try it in some dish. Being somewhat foolish or rebellious, when his father told him that was the best the dish had ever tasted he said it was because of the added butter. Well, he wasn’t disowned, but he did get a tongue-lashing.

    • Joe Schuver

    Dear Marcella also added a little butter to pesto sauce, which was heresy to many. She writes about it in ”Ingrediente ” her posthumously published little tome. A much worn copy is within constant reach in my kitchen. No recipes, just information and ideas that her husband Victor gleaned from her notes. I highly recommend it to any serious Italian cook.
    Was so glad to see milk in your recipe David. So many leave it out. Bologna being such dairy country it needs to be there, in my opinion.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      There’s a chef in Nice that uses a little Emmenthal cheese in his pistou, saying it gives it a little “creaminess.” I used to eat at a restaurant in San Francisco that had very good pesto pasta and once I looked in the kitchen and saw them butter quite a bit of butter in the pan (!) Like Marcella, I do sometimes add a small pat, but often that replaces the starchiness that bronze-cut pasta gives to the cooking liquid, so perhaps that’s where it came from.

    • Joycelyn

    What a hoot you actually tried on Marcella Hazan’s mink coat and what a shame no one took a picture as we’d all love to see that one!

    Good to know Marcella, with her comment what the F was that, is just like the rest of us. Nothing worse that a celeb. or restaurant owner/chef who’s developed an over inflated ego.
    Which I might add, makes you David a very dear person who thinks of us as equals.

    Thanks for making another dreary uncertain day, a lot brighter!

    • Sally Wright

    David – making this in Los Angeles this weekend. I’ve made Marcella’s recipe before, but this seems more streamlined. Thank you!

    And thank you for these blog posts, your Instagram feed and everything else. You are giving me lots of ideas, hope and solace during our lockdown… going on for two weeks now in the City of Angels. Cooking is healing.

    • Pam from Cape Cod

    My love for you knows no bounds. I’ve seen so many professional chefs call any old meat sauce a “Bolognese”. Apparently the city of Bologna was tired of it as well and issued a definitive list of ingredients for a proper Bolognese sauce. Yours certainly fits the bill and it sounds wonderful. And I just happen to have all of the ingredients on hand. Lucky me.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I linked to what is supposedly the “official” recipe in the headnote, but like the official pesto recipe from Genova, it’d be tough for someone living elsewhere to recreate it exactly as it uses Ligurian olive oil, Sicilian salt, pine nuts from Pisa, etc. I’ve had the “official” one made by the guy who is anointed to make it (which is great) – and it was terrific, but hard to make elsewhere : )

    • soosie

    On my last shopping trip lo almost a month ago, I threw four pounds of butter in my basket, without a thought of what I would do with it. Well, I’ve been adding a few tablespoons to the various jarred tomato-based sauces I had already squirreled away before the Great Depletion. Turns out you can totally transform an ordinary sauce with a little butter, and/or sugar, and/or mirepoix, and/or whatever. So don’t forget the ready-to-eats. They deserve a little love as well.

    • Carole

    David, we lived in northern Italy for 5 years, just west of Venice which I believe is the city of Marcella’s cooking classes. Anyway northern Italians always, always add butter to sauces and a lot of times cream. Most of the bolognese recipes from our time there use half veal and half pork, along with all the ingredients you list except in place of white wine, marsala!! OH and two bay leaves. I know there are as many recipes for this famous sauce as cooks. And believe me no two Italians can agree on that. Theirs is always the perfect way. It was and is one of our favorites from our lives there.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I went to Bologna once and a local recommended Trattoria Anna Maria. Wow, was that pasta great! I think they used veal as do other cooks. Ground veal is probably hard to get elsewhere but yes, there are several recipes, techniques, ingredients…and no two recipes are alike!

    • Margaret Pierson

    Hi David, I enjoy your marvellous writing about food and Paris and your life there with your partner. I am going to make the sauce today,with butter and milk (never before tried by me).It will be a good dish for our Autumn and lockdown. All the best from Nth Canterbury, NZ.

    • Sue Horn-Caskey

    David, I cooked for two weeks with Marcella, once at High Tree Farm in Napa Valley, another time in Bologna. Your comments managed to capture her perfectly. My mother had a super bolognese sauce which the entire family abandoned after we tried Marcella’s! Thank you for introducing a new generation to Marcella.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Lucky you! Marcella did have a few different Bolognese sauces in her repertoire (one used about 2 tablespoons each of aromatics, the other used 1/2-2/3 cup of each) so there’s plenty of room for improvisation!

    • patty

    The sauce looks so tasty. I am under stay at home in Ohio so I have plenty of time to make a sauce that takes 3 – 4 hours. I don’t have any onions which I would leave out any way because I can’t stand onions. The only wine I have is a bottle of a California Champagne Rose’ Brut that has been in the fridge for 22 years! Other than that I’m good.

      • Patricia Cross

      If you cook this mirepoix for at least 45 – 60 minutes, the moons become sweet and are essential to the sauce’s richness.

    • Sandra H.

    Thanks for your rendition! Must try. I love bolognese sauce!

    • PF

    RE the mushroom version you mention– it’s great. I use about 1 oz of dried porcini, rinsed, soaked and finely chopped in addition to finely chopped brown mushrooms. Use the soaking liquid (strained to get out any grit) in the sauce to give the fresh mushrooms a boost.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Yes, dried mushrooms in conjunction with fresh always add a wonderful musky richness. Often add a splash of sherry to the soaking liquid (or marsala or madiera) which accentuates their flavor. They can seem expensive, but just a few go a long way. And for those on a budget, shops that specialize in Asian foods usually have dried mushrooms, which aren’t as dynamic as dried porcini or morels, which can fill in for them.

        • Laura Morland

        I just made this tonight with the ingredients I had on hand — we’re also in Paris — and my husband’s first comment: “You hit a home run!”

        Your first sentence, “During the current lockdown in Paris, you can still get most things at the supermarket,” is true enough, but it’s *often* hard get celery in Paris supermarkets, even in the best of times. (Which is odd, as it’s an ingredient in pot-au-feu.) Have you noticed that?

        So, no celery, and so I substituted a red bell pepper (which I sauteed for a long time beforehand) and mushrooms, which I added at the end. Sauteed the shallots (out of onions, too) and everything else but the tomatoes before pouring it all into my Crockpot.

        It was absolutely delicious after 2-1/2 hours in the slow cooker. My husband is not a mushroom lover, and he didn’t even mind them. He thanked me about five times altogether for the great meal!

        And in response to an earlier question, I didn’t have any fat out of my ground beef, either. (Monoprix Gourmet “Black Angus” 20% gras.)

        Thank you again for a memorial supper. I’m looking forward to more confinement recipes!

          • David
          David Lebovitz

          Celery can be hard to get in Paris but I usually find someone at the market who has it. (I’ve never put celery in pot-au-feu, but do use it in stock.) THe upside is that you can usually buy one rib of celery or half a head of celery, rather than the whole bunch! Glad the mushrooms worked out…

    • Rebecca Curry

    Last weekend, I made the sauce from her original book that I got in college in the nineties. I have made it so many times I have not used a recipe in years. The sauce is fantastic in lasagna too. Total comfort food and it is delicious.

    • Patricia Cross

    The first time I made Bolognese sauce I scoured my Italian cookbooks. Many of the great names of Italian cooking. I chose Marcella’s because I appreciated the care she took with ingredients including the reduction added milk and then the wine. I recall though that I used a combination of pork and beef — added a nice subtlety. For me the key was the mirepoix— time spent to get it to a “finely chopped” stage,and then sautéing it for at least 45 minutes to a very rich reduction, was crucial and added a subtle “je ne c’est quoi”. It was divine. When I asked my now 10-1/2 year old grandson what he wanted For dinner to celebrate his 9th birthday, he quickly claimed “Pasta Bolognese and I want to make it.” We made two versions that day and he opined on their differences, proclaiming Marcella’s was his favorite. I think the other was Giuliano Bugialli. Thank you David for the reminder (and thank you for the many fine dinners at Chez Panisse — best deal in town when it first opened).

    • Jeroen

    I saw you making it on Instagram and since I had all the ingrediente on hand, cooked it from what I saw. Without the nutmeg though, but I added a bay leaf. Next time, nutmeg it is!

    • Gill Catterall

    I love the comment about Marcella and the Parmesan cheese, which made me laugh out loud, not a bad thing at all in these days of lockdown, and the picture of you in a mink coat that smelled of cigarettes. Neither of which is politically acceptable these days.

    • Nisha

    I made this today and it was excellent. One small addition – which I think added complexity – I added a tsp of some chilli garlic oil before the tomatoes went in. Super recipe, thank you David!

    • Rach

    This is exactly how my mum made bolognese and therefore how I do. If she was feeling fancy there was pancetta or chicken liver added to the soffrito. I got hold of decent linguine today so this is in the cards for tomorrow

    • Jennifer

    I didn’t know that you had met her! That is incredible and I’m sure she was a force to be reckoned with. :)
    I like the way you’ve tweaked her Bolognese sauce.
    And her 4 ingredient onion, tomato and butter sauce is life changing. You should try it!

    • PAUL

    In Bologna, you must use Tagliatelli, similar to fettucine but slightly wider.

      • Lyn Deroy

      I have made your/ Marcella’s Bolognese sauce twice and we all just love it. Not much choice in pasta right now but I did find rigotini #31 which turned out to be extremely nice.
      I used to live in France and have recently relocated to Florida. You are a lucky guy to live in the “City of Light” even if you are in “lockdown”.
      I enjoy reading about your life there.
      Do you have an easy chicken recipe for those of us who need simple but tasty dish?

    • Mary

    I am a huge and faithful fan of Marcella. I was supposed to go to a talk she was giving once in Boston but it was cancelled and a year or so later she passed away. She taught me authentic Italian cooking, like Julia’s books taught me French cooking, and I love that she is raunchier than Julia. It suits me. I only make her bolognese because it’s the best and easiest. The tomato sauce I don’t like because I don’t like butter.

    • Jean

    I love Marcella’s tomato sauce. I have a frozen lasagna bolognese in the freezer that I made for my husband’s birthday that we will enjoy this weekend. Because there are only two of us I made the recipe in 2 bread loaf pans and froze one. I recommend lasagna bolognese for any leftover sauce! Flour is in short supply here but Chocolate is not. Thanks David for your great posts!

    • Kay

    You mentioned that Marcella made it once with mushrooms…I am trying it. I’m not changing anything except putting chopped baby bellas in instead of ground beef… Hoping it is still good; she probably adjusted the recipe when she made it.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Marcella didn’t make it with mushrooms, it was a friend of mine, who was married to a vegetarian who made it. She said it worked great.

    • Dennis Yannakos

    I did try it today and it was freaking delicious! Thank you so much for a great recipe!

    • Marianne McGriff

    Good morning, David
    I made your „Pasta Bolognese“ last night and it not only looked like yours, but it was delicious! I, especially, enjoyed your stories of Marcella Hazan. Darina has mentioned her before and the next time I see her, I’ll ask if she has any personal stories as well. I’m not sure that they’ll top yours, though. Next on my list is your “Split Pea Soup.” Thank you and as someone above said, “my go-to quarantine chef”. Blessings on your weekend, Marianne

    • Kathleen

    David, Small piece of advice – make the 5 ingredient tomato sauce! It is astounding. Made it twice when a fire evacuee here in Northern California, and now make it often at home.

    • Bruce Taylor

    I love the Marcella Hazan stories but I’m a bit non-plussed to learn that this doyenne of Italian cooking smoked heavily and drank Jack Daniels! I suppose I could accept the smoking from an Italian, even though I think it does damage to the sense of taste but I cannot understand her other habit. Heavens! Whatever happened to red wine?

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Many Europeans love whiskey. The French are the number one consumers of Scotch whisky (per capita) in the world. That’s always surprised me since it’s so smoky and strong.

    • Yara

    I made this fabulous sauce on yet another rainy evening. I used half red and half white wine, ground turkey rather than beef, and it was still delicious. My middle child was delighted to see it. She exclaimed, “Look at all the meat!”

    Thank you for the great recipes and writing. I hope you and yours are doing well.

    • susan KELLY

    Many moons ago, when I was learning to cook, something my italian mother was downright awful at, I bought 2 of Marcella’s cookbooks. I loved to read cookbooks like a novel before cooking from them, it gave me a feeling for the chef and I felt more connected to the recipes.
    Well, I totally disliked her, I found her condescending, mean, oh I could go on but I think you get my point. I have never used her recipes for that reason.
    Now I love your cookbooks and you in general…so you’ve given me a huge dilemma!!! Thank goodness Im on lockdown and have tons of time to figure out this dilemma…to make it or not to make it…that is the question!!

    • Deborah

    Yikes! Did I make a mistake? The wine is happily simmering away – **now** I’m reading the comments. There was a lot of oil and butter left after vegetables were wilted; my beef didn’t add any fat, but there will be oil and butter still. Shall I just be patient until the tomatoes and paste are added? Patient? Just now we are getting quite used to being patient. Not a bad feeling, all in all!

    • Margaret

    Laughed out loud at the post. I’ve been ghost-lurking on and off and have enjoyed making a handful of recipes that you’ve posted. I just wanted to come and see if you were healthy & well and cooking & baking up a storm. Glad to see all is well! Regarding the Bolognese, I’ve been making “Giusi’s Ragu” (from Under the Tuscan Sun cookbook) for a couple of years now and absolutely love it but I’m intrigued now by this recipe and MUST give it a try! GR’s recipe also has a soffritto as a base and uses red wine but no milk or butter. I suspect the milk helps break down the protein in the meat and acts as a sort of tenderizer (which is why many chefs slow cook chicken in milk in the oven). Can’t wait to try this!

    As a side comment, I’m wondering if one of the (positive) side effects of this global lockdown will be that more people will learn how to cook again out of necessity and start eating healthier (or at least better tasting) meals (well OK… cream, butter, etc… maybe not so healthy but better than all that processed food junk, no?) Wouldn’t that be nice? I’m an incurable idealist. Learned to cook from my immigrant parents – still cooking & baking from scratch after all these years despite working full time. Wouldn’t dream of doing it any other way.

    • Sue Aron

    David your useful comment in brackets in para 2 of the method was so helpful. The milk took time to get absorbed. The wine went faster. I always enjoy your recipes and this one is spot on for lockdown where comfort food is high on my list. Im not a drinker but have been very entertained by your daily drinkalongs.Thank you for helping to keep me sane à ce moment là

    • Ray Kuhn Grenier

    Loved your Marcella stories. I was in one of her cooking classes in my sister-in-law’s cooking school – Loni Kuhn – in San Francisco and we were discussing how to tell when pasta is done and someone said in America we just throw it against the wall and if it sticks, it’s done. I thought she was going to faint from the shock and horror of such an idea.

    • Anne

    Mine is still cooking down, but it tastes great! You are my teacher. Anne

    • Shankar

    Can i substitute goat mince for beef mince??

A

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