Haj Kahil

fried cheese

When I left the restaurant Haj Kahil after lunch, I said to someone – “That was the best day of my life.” When Erin, who was dining next to me, took a bite of the fried Halloumi cheese, her whole body softened, her eyes dimmed, and she looked as if she had been lulled into a trance.

Labna with wild mustardpomagranite juicefried haloumi cheesewaiter at Haj Khil

And when someone tried to talk to her, she said – “I’m sorry. I’m just…having…a…moment..with…this….cheese…”

prickly pearspickles
Haj Khilpita

And from the look on her face, it was clearly quite the moment, enjoying that first warm bite of soft, pillowy cheese sealed inside a firm, golden-brown crust. Of course, I made sure that the plate was set down near me, and I plucked one off for myself.

herb salad with pinenuts

bread oven room

Over on hundred cultures live in the small country of Israel, and thirty-three languages are spoken. Because people live so close together, the food traditions cross fluidly from one culture to the next here. Fresh produce is abundant due to the climate and the vegetables are still-crunchy and juicy, as if they are still alive, the herbs are deep-green and aromatic – I was intrigued by hyssop, which I’ve never had fresh before. Meats are complimented by the seared flavor of a grill, or a leisurely roast in the oven, cooked so they fall apart with just the gentle prodding of a fork.

bread-baked meat

And nutty tahini (sesame paste), is a flavor I thought I knew. But here, it is so revered and each spoonful tastes like it was just-ground to order. From hummus to baba ganoush, it’s a flavor that binds it all, the glue that is holding many of the flavors of Israel – and the various cuisines within its controversial borders – together.

Haj Khil in Tel AvivArabic lunch
chef omarchicken baked in pita

Olive oil, chickpeas, sesame seeds, dried fruits, nuts, filo dough, and plenty of fresh tomatoes and cucumbers come heaped in salads, are stuffed into meat dishes, and everything seems to get tossed with an abundance of fresh herbs, all cultivated from this culinary eden.

fattoush

lamb at Haj Khil

Lamb leg

Arabic food is one of my favorite things to eat; I love the lively bowls of pickled vegetables, Labna (thick white, creamy cheese) with pools of olive oil spilling out, and whole roasted leg of lamb stuffed with dried figs and pine nuts and roasted for seven hours.

leg of lamb with dried fruits

And Kanafeh, warm kataifi (shredded filo) pastries sprinkled with chopped pistachios and doused in orange-blossom honey. When pulled apart, hot cheese oozes out. Meals end with tiny shots of coffee with cardamom seeds clustered at the bottom, their aroma permeating the exotic, murky brew.

I’m with a small group traveling in Israel, learning about the foods and the cultures of this country that is roughly the size of New Jersey. Only sixty or so years-old, Israel is young. But it’s vibrant and brash; people will tell you what they think and expect the same out of you. (Kind of like blogging!) The uncertainty one might have about this country is tempered at the rickety linoleum tables in the back of markets where hand-pulled filo is quickly baked and drizzled with honey for you and at the juice stands which dot the streets near the beaches, pouring fresh, cold juices. But if you do want a taste of controversy, just mention the word “hummus” and you will be told by anyone within earshot where the best place is, and why it’s better than any of the other places you were at.

lamb

Here at Haj Kahil, the food is copious and dramatic – tangy cucumbers swimming in vinegar brine, a puffy dome of dough is lifted away, revealing ground lamb with herbs and nuts, cauliflower mashed with tahini (sesame paste), which is meant to be scooped up with breads, all accompanied with house-made pita.

seeded flatbreadmaking flatbreadflatbread ovenflatbreads baking

Each moist handful of dough is pressed and pulled, permeated with za’atar and sesame seeds, then baked for four minutes in a fiery oven until riddled with crisp bubbles. Minutes later, out comes a tambourine-size disk for bread flexible enough to be ripped into, but firm enough to wrap around an unruly salad of spinach and purslane.

flatbreads

I could not get enough of that bread, which they brought out to the table with nearly twenty different dishes for us, everything from miniature pickled eggplants to a salad heaped with fresh herbs and crispy nuts, whose name I can’t remember, but whose taste I will never forget.

Until I was warned that they were just the first course.

filo pastry with cheese

So many of the dishes were unfamiliar, yet I knew the ingredients but had never dreamed they could taste so good piled up all around me. It was like we were all on drugs or something, eating the salads and dips until we could eat no more. Then the main courses arrived, and we covered our laps with napkins, and began all over again.

dessert filo pastry



Haj Kahil
18 Raziel Street
Tel: 03-5188866
Jaffa, Tel Aviv, Israel



Note: I’m a guest on a trip with Vibe Israel, a non-profit organization dedicated to introducing Israeli culture and cuisine to others. This meal was part of that visit.

135 comments

  • I was just talking about halloumi this morning…one of my favorite cheeses that I’ve never seen in France. Must look for it in Paris next time I visit.
    The food there looks completely delicious. Glad you’re enjoying your trip!

  • Beautifully and evocatively written. I can almost taste the foods you describe. The trip sounds like an injection of cultural and culinary energy. Wish I could experience it first hand.

  • Enjoy your time here! That meal looks unbelievable! If you want to extend your visit and come to Jerusalem for Shabbat, please be in touch.

  • That’s what I LOVE about living in the Middle East…they have such elaborate yet spot on homey food :) Zaatar didn’t win my heart at first because I first brush with it left a bitter taste in the mouth. Then I learned that each establishment has a different zaatar blend. I gave it another chance and YUM! It’s perfect with labneh (strained yoghurt) on manousheh / manakeesh (plural word).

    Hope you could stop by Dubai as well…the food here is from all over the Middle East and the rest of the world (Indian, Pakistani, Filipino, Korean, African,etc)

  • You’d be amazed how different Egyptian, Jordanian, Lebanese, Iraqi, Iranian, Emirati, Syria cuisine is from each other :)

  • Would love to see the handmade filo process documented – I cannot imagine how it’s done with such uniformity. Not to mention the shredded filo, kataifi. Everything sounds absolutely delicious and looks really well-made and beautiful. Great trip!

  • Wow! I never imagined. Thank you so much for sharing.

  • You are killing me with those photos David. I am literally drooling!

  • Oh, my husband reminded me again that we need to go Israel.
    Your photos and descriptions are brilliant and so enticing. The food looks so fresh and appetising.
    I adore the tiles around kitchen.
    Thank you.

  • Looks gorgeous! I love absolutely everything you’ve described and photographed in this post! Looking forward to reading more posts from your trip. :)

  • I am just about to head off for lunch, starving…these photos and words make me what to jump on a plane and head on over NOW. Yummm.

  • What does fresh hyssop taste like? The oil used to be common in flavor and perfume formulas at one point, but eventually it just disappeared. It had a really beautiful scent–like lavender and rosemary, with a licorice accent.

    My cousin lives in Israel and keeps inviting me to visit. I think that between her descriptions of the place and your posts, I’m ready to go.

    • Hyssop is very strong – almost thyme-like and slightly medicinal. But the flavor goes really well with foods from the region because it’s so assertive.

  • Oh David, thank you for such a lovely description. Enjoy your trip!

  • I called my husband over to see this post and now we’re both swooning over those dishes. Someday…

  • it seems to be like the perfect restaurant
    I wrote down the address for my next trip to Tel Aviv !!

  • Prefect timing David – I have a trip planning to Israel with my brother in a few months. I will be taking notes of all of the delicious food you eat. Bring on more Israel posts!!

  • Isn’t hyssop wonderful? My husband bought me a little seedling when we first moved into our house as he assumed that since I love mint, I would like mint’s cousin, hyssop. He was right! It’s quite difficult to find dried here, practically impossible to get fresh, so I have several bushes and start new seedlings every year to make sure we have an ample supply. It makes a delicious syrup for cold drinks, as well as being a nice change from herbes de province on things like roasted potatoes. A little goes a long way when dried, though!

  • This Post is my all-time favorite, because it sums up the israeli food and israel’s general vibe in a web page.
    I live in Israel, and all the dishes you portrayed are daily and regular to me, but it was beautiful thing, experiencing it (and tasting it) through a newbie eyes.

    I just ate a scilian pistachio gelato in Tel Aviv, it was my first time eating a pistachio gelato and I’m pretty sure i’ve seen god after the first bite.
    So i highlly recommend it,the gelato shop is called Vaniliya (http://www.vaniglia.co.il/about.html) and it has several branches in Tel Aviv, you can see their website in english so you can find the nearst shop to you.

    Anway.. that brings me to the point of my overly long comment. I felt so strongly about the ice cream that i, well, immediately ran away from the place (so that i won’t have a chance for second serving, and a third, and a forth) and the second thing i did was to google a recipe for pistachio ice cream. I ran across yours and was very happy.
    Though.. i don’t have an ice cream machine, and i read your post on how to make ice cream without a machine and wondered, since you wrote that this method works best for creamy based ice creams, would it be okay if i replace the milk in the recipe for cream? the 28% fat kind? or will that mess the whole thing up?

    Thankyou in advance, and keep having a great time in Israel!

    • If you replace the cream with milk in ice cream recipes, the results will be firmer and in many cases, icier.

  • MMMMMmmmmmmm!!!! You make me want to go to Israel…..if only to eat the bread!

  • That restaurant is amazing! I have eaten there twice and really enjoyed the food,especially those salads! And their knaafe is amazing!

  • Thank you for taking the time to share your adventures with us!
    Such a privilege to come along with you and see all this great food.

  • Amazing photos and the description has my mouth watering. Israel is an incredible country. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten so well as when I was there.

  • That dessert-looking thing in the last right-hand photo – what is that called? I think I had something similar in Egypt many years ago and have been searching for it since but I can’t figure out what’s in it or its name!! It was a sort of shredded wheat like topping over a creamy base.

  • I LOVE halloumi cheese… When I was in Sydney you could get halloumi on or with anything you wanted and I brought some back to France from London last time I was there and cooked it up for the Frenchies I live with… needless to say, it wasnt such a hit haha I ate nearly the whole lot too myself! Looks like an amazing trip! I love all those types of foods too so I’m very jealous of you right now!

  • Middle Eastern food is among my favourite !
    My 9 days in Jordan and a week in Dubai and Abu Dhabi were a culinary dream come true. I’ve since been planning my special visit to Israel for 2 years and want to see and do (and eat) so much that the logistics were baffling me but I’m nearly there. Eagerly look forward to the trip next year.
    In the meanwhile, your excellent photos and drool-inducing food descriptions will be the perfect precourse. Thanks for a great read.

    • I’ve heard Jordan is great. I was in Dubai a few years ago and the food was amazing – especially the Syrian and Lebanese food.

  • If you’re looking for *really* good food, you could stop in Beirut :) You’ll get all the original knefeh, manakeesh, halloumi, etc. you want!

  • You make me want to eat it all! Whenever I hear someone talking about food in Israel, they always keep repeating the word “fresh.” Sounds like the best endorsement one could want!

  • Hi David, Wonderful pictures of Middle Eastern cuisine. I thought for a moment you were in Beirut.By the way, for your information, the language is Arabic but the cuisine is Arab.Thanks for the inspiration; now I think I’ll go make some Lebanese dishes!

  • What a wonderful post. I love the way you write about foods we in Israel have on a daily basis in a way that makes me want to run out and eat them all again through your “eyes”.

    And thank you for taking the time to explore our culinary culture – it’s such an exciting one with influences from all over the world, it deserves to be experienced and enjoyed.

    Hope you’re having a great trip. We’re off to Paris tomorrow ourselves (so much for my fantasy of running into my favorite blogger while we’re there, as you’re here!) and look forward to experiencing many of things you’ve written about over the years.

    Thanks for a great post!

  • im glad you injoyed the Food…
    but everythink you ate in that restaurant in Palestinian and not israeli…
    just for your Information!

    • The food in Israel is pretty much considered a mélange of the various cultures that live here, including (but not limited to) Iraqi, Palestinian, Iranian, Syrian, and many (many) more. The chef of the restaurant is of Palestinian descent. More information about the restaurant, and the chef, can be found at their website, linked at the end of the post.

  • haj kahil is a fantastic restaurant — i used to live just a couple of blocks from there, i wrote much of my master’s thesis at the cafe right across the street.

    an important correction, though: haj kahil isn’t in tel aviv — it’s in jaffa. technically, these two cities were joined under a single municipality back in the fifties, but there’s still a major dividing line between the two. it’s kind of like saying that chez panisse is in san francisco, or that a restaurant is in manhattan, when it’s actually in brooklyn… you know, plus the incredibly fraught politics.

    • Yes, there’s plenty of room of “controversy” here in Israel, yet the restaurant itself says it’s in Jaffa, Tel Aviv. Either way, it’s worth checking out and luck you for being so close. (And Jaffa is a great area to wander around in!)

  • Enjoy every bite of your trip, and thanks for sharing it with us!

  • Will someone please take pity on those of us who have no hope of ever travelling to Israel and teach you how to make these wonderful dishes so you can share the recipes?

  • ps, if you’re sticking around tel aviv-jaffa, definitely make sure to try out the kyurtush (kurtush), this incredible hungarian pastry cone. there’s a kyurtush place in the flea market in jaffa and another one in tel aviv on bograshov st. trust me on this one.

  • fab …all round….cant the management and the chef[s] all be praised for their great food and atmosphere and the giving of quality….

  • My 22 year old daughter is there for the first time right now! She has been in Israel on a Birthright trip for the last 9 days. She just left Tel Aviv. You could have walked right by each other. I can’t wait to show her your blog.

  • I love this post. It is allowing me to live (eat) vicariously through your wonderful experience. My daughter is in Israel for 5 weeks – working. We were hoping to meet up with her at some point but the trip just didn’t come together. I’m even sorrier about that now that I have read your post. And the hummus – I had to laugh. The last time my daughter visited Israel she came home waxing poetic about the hummus. She said there was nothing to compare to it in our country. I am sending her to Haj Kahil just so I can continue this new love affair I am beginning with the foods of Israel. Thanks David! BTW – beautiful photos!

  • I lived in Saudi Arabia for 8yrs and your lovely story brought back many memories accentuated with sighs and yearnings for that delightful food. Please, may we have some recipes too?

    • I’m traveling and staying in hotels, not at home. So don’t have access to recipes or anywhere to test and write them up for the site. But I’m sure there are places where you can find reliable recipes on websites – or in cookbooks. I did link to a few recipes of mine here on the site that are similar.

  • David, if you have time, you MUST go to Acre, where the old prison is (EXODUS was shot there.) It is truly beautiful and historic, and there are some wonderful hidden food treasures there as well!

  • David, this might be the first dinner we have when we land in Tel Aviv. Your descriptions and photos are mouthwatering. Looking forward to your next report.

  • I believe you, too, were having a moment with the food you’ve been eating as you wrote this! I don’t think I’ve ever heard you wax as poetic about anything you’ve eaten quite like you do in this piece. You have made me very hungry for middle eastern food today!

  • I haven’t been to Israel since 1984, I was 11 years old. The trip was eye opening and life altering. The whole experience still resonates with me. I’ve yearned to go back several times. This post of yours only intensifies my urgent need, thank you David. Toda & Beteavon!!

    I will speak to just one of my revelations from that trip that changed my life, I’ll stick to a food related one ;-)

    So even though I was a well traveled and a pretty adventurous eater at age 11, Israel blew my teeen foodie mind wide open.

    Pita. I had eaten more than the bland mass produced stuff sold at US supermarkets, but I had no idea how jaw droppingly delicious it was until my Uncle, a tank driver with the Israeli army, ushered us down ancient stone steps underneath the Old City in Jerusalem. My Dad, 6 ft 5 inches, nearly knocked himself out from not ducking :-) a skill he mastered by the end of our trip. The tourists all disappeared and we were in a labrynth undeneath a city that both amazed and svared me. The heat was sweltering, I assumed it would be cooler underground, he didn’t tell us we were entering one of the worlds oldest bakeries! The ovens were deep and roaring with wild orange flames. Seemingly endless wooden paddles shoved in fresh formed pita and then just as quickly shimmied out dozens at a time, the workers were so close to the ovens. I was afraid the shirtless bakers would catch on fire. The pitas were carried in tall stacks by hand up the steps & loaded onto wooden carts stacked high with the flame hot disks of wondrous smelling bread. These pita carts roamed the city all day. But i soon learned that eating this bread cold ftom a cart wasnt the way to go.

    Only men did this work. My uncle made a rapid transaction, my first known experience buying wholesale, and handed us each some freshly torn pita. The smell and puffs of steam were intoxicating. Even though it was almost burning my fingers I couldn’t get in my mouth fast enough. No exaggeration, it was like my first true taste of bread, or what bread should be. I was never going to eat a Roman Meal Sandwich slice ever again. Before I could ask for more he pointed out a man in the corner with a few crates and a paddle or two of his own. He was making magic, poring fresh eggs and cheeses I’d never tasted before onto raw pita and pulling them out a minute later. My Mom was worried the eggs were undercooked, so my Uncle asked for something else. It was so wonderfully foreign this experience, intensified by the Hebrew I didn’t understand. This time he cooked the eggs in an old tin pan I think scrambling them up to satisfy my Moms anxiety. Then he’d slice open a fully cooked steam laden pita and shove them inside. Utterly delicious, I even tasted my Uncles fried egg pita when my Mom wasn’t looking, heaven. I liked it so much my Uncle then ordered me my first taste of zaatar.

    I didn’t know these flavors even existed, it was a heady food experience. My uncle laughed st me, my eyes must have been bugging out of my head. I was mesmerized by pita bread, it had never occurred to me that food could be this exciting & new.

    All these years later I still remember my many varied food experiences all over Israel. The crap hot lunches we got saddled with on a day tour. The crowded rickety cafes that grilled up lamb and vegetables so deliciously and served family style at l long skinny rickety TAbles with young male and female soldiers talking wildly seemingly unphased by the automatic weapons slung over all their soldiers. The orange soda that my Mom bought for me after I climbed Masada at dawn. I was a chubby late riser kind of kid, this was epic. The fresh almonds and kumquats hidden in my uncles army vest & cargo pants, he had enough snacks stashed on his person for days. My first look and bite into Turkish delight, so many firsts I enjoyed in Israel.

    Thank you David, for reminding me of all of them. I can’t wait to visit my parents on July 4th. I’m going to get out the enormous photo albums from that trip and relive it all with my family.

    Toda Raba David, Sefarad eretz nifla, Shalom.

  • This post is amazing, we love reading your blog! Bye bye from Italy!

  • A moment with cheese sounds perfect. I’ve been loving your Instagrams (especially the brioche – heavenly!).

  • Wow – this makes me want to travel to Israel asap. My roommate went when she was on her Birthright trip, and that moment made me envy her travels. She didn’t mention the plethora of delicious food – I’m a sucker for any type of cultural cuisine. This trip looks amazing, and any place that serves fried cheese is high in my book!

  • The look of this food alone already makes me happy. I wanted to take the train to Paris tomorrow, but unfortunately it’s a bit further from home. The beautiful pictures remind me of the food they serve at Ottolenghi’s in London.

  • I have to agree with you about the Tahini- I’m an Israeli living in the states, and although it is not a problem to find tahini here, it’s flavor is completely different. Every time I have someone coming for a visit, they bring me some Tahini from Israel- there are 3-4 best producers, mostly based in Schem, who are just out of this world.

  • Ohh, I’m HOME SICK just looking at the pictures. David, how about some recipes.

  • To Sara, when you wrote Sefarad, did you mean Spain or Israel.

  • Sarah, love your stories. I felt like I was there with you. My next big trip needs to be this part of the world. Now if only I could convince my very jittery husband to go…

    David, I understand your friend’s ‘cheese moment’. I understand it quite well. I had that moment with my first taste of gelato.

  • God that was spectacular, David. Wonder if I can afford a ticket back to Israel…
    I first had Halumi in Cyprus in 1995 and had to search for it in NYC and Cali. It’s easier to find now, but not the fresh stuff, of course. I dream of that stuff friend and in a fresh roll. Thanks for my morning food porn!

  • To add to my bucket list – visit Israel and have a DL experience, culinary, I mean. This particular post is one of your best. Thank you for sharing.

  • Oh my. I am indeed drooling over the food!

  • Wooo David
    From away over here in Canada
    This looks devine and I can almost smell it .
    Need to get a chance to try this .
    Thanks for your post David I most enjoy them .

  • Hi david.well reading your post i felt very lucky that i am in the middle-east and am able to relish all those great foods you mentioned.i just love these foods.hummus and kunafe being my favourite.there is a limitless variety to choose from in arabic food.

  • David, increibles tus fotos!!!, me hacen viajar…
    Estoy esperando un libro tuyo con recetas del mundo…

  • Any thoughts about what went into the purslain and spinach salad? The former has been part of my eating history since it’s common in Mexico and Peru, two countries where I lived as a child. I saw it growing like a small bush in Morocco and they too eat it raw and cooked. Now I’ve got it growing between the bricks in my patio so combining some with baby spinach leaves and those nuts certainly sounds doable. What dressing bind it all together?

    Mind-blowing post.

  • I lived in Tel Aviv for two years in the early 80’s. I guess it’s time to go back because in those days the only intresting food to be found was in Jaffa or the old city of Jerusalem…best shwarma ever! It was a joke trying to find some place interesting or semi-decent to eat. I loved my time there, and became quite the cook due to the dearth of good restaurants….a good thing!

  • Thank you for sharing,it all looks delicious,on what are the chicken legs served?

  • I love fried Halloumi cheese, but I have not cooked it for many moons, thanks for reminding me how good it is. Diane

  • David, I love this post! Please, please, please identify the foods in the last 3 photos. My mouth is watering.

    • One of the desserts I mentioned is Kanafeh, which is basically made by moistening shredded filo with butter, and baking it with a slice of soft cheese in the center. Then serving it with a sugar syrup. I don’t know the name of the other dumpling-like pastries – since the name was written in another alphabet : )

  • Being allergic to nuts and almonds the wonderful kitchen of the Near East is a rather dangerous feast.

  • OMG, David, my husband send me this link today. I guess he really misses Israel, and especially the bread like the one here. Thanks so much for sharing.

  • Mouth-watering post!
    I lived in Lebanon and all of the foods are instantly familiar, right down to the prickly pears served with ice cream :-)
    The way to cook halloumi cheese like in the picture here is to dredge the pieces of cheese in flour, dip in water, and dredge again in flour, then fry in hot oil. This method of frying cheese is called “saganaki” in Greek, and I’m sure there are plenty of recipes on the net for it. The difference between halloumi and other cheeses fried this way is that the halloumi is softened and desalted first, by soaking it in water or milk. Hence the divine texture and flavor.
    The kataif & cheese pastry is a staple across the former Ottoman empire, and can also be found in Greece, Turkey, and most Arab countries. The pronounciation varies but it’s essentially the same word: kounefe, kunefe, knafe, knafeh.
    If you can find a place that makes “kaak knafe” it is to die for. A piece of Nabulsi style knafeh (thick-ground semolina instead of kataif strands) served in a bread roll with a generous ladle of syrup, and eaten like a sandwich!
    The chicken on a bed of chopped onions & sumac atop a round of bread: I’m surprised the restaurant’s menu doesn’t list it with its local name, musakhan. Also, they say the thick bread base is Iraqi, but I know it as “taboun” bread.
    The salad with purslane, pine nuts and greens seems to have a fattoush-type of dressing, from the looks of it – I can discern the specks of sumac. In fact, the salad identified as fattoush (on Flickr, at http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidlebovitz/7465007130/in/set-72157630308500480/ ) I don’t recognize as fattoush, it’s more like a chopped salad. It has a generous topping of zaatar, which isn’t usual for fattoush. The next photo, with the purslane, pine nuts and greens, is more like a fattoush.
    The little crescents (photo above, to the left of the dish with cut-up knafeh) are atayef, small pancakes filled with cream (ashta) or chopped nuts and folded over. I’m guessing the ones served here are filled with nuts, as they are sealed shut ( the ones filled with cream usually have one tip left open, forming a cone shape).
    The zaatar bread is an ubiquitous street food snack in Lebanon, known as man’ousheh.

  • Nitpick: Arabic refers to a language. Arab is the correct adjectival form.

  • One more thing about the fattoush salad.
    If it tasted like no other fattoush you’ve had before, try the follow: a dressing of sumac/garlic/lemon juice/olive oil/salt on top of purslane, parsley, mint, green onions, purslane, with radish greens as the main green ingredient. Then add cucumber, tomatoes, and pita bread croutons. My mom (who lived in Jerusalem in the 1950’s) also adds a touch of cinnamon and allspice.

  • Please write another book ….. on Israeli foods. You bring such poetry to it; so different from other authors… please, please….

    Enjoy your trip! Safe travels -

  • This is one of your best posts, David, with amazing photo’s. I’ve been hearing wonderful things about Israeli food for some time & have a great book on modern Israeli food written by Janna Gur. Your pictures have really brought the food to life – thanks so much for sharing.

  • If you are going to Nazareth there is a superb spice shop (where you can buy wonderful dried cherries) and a bakery with indescribably delicious baklava. You probably have contacts that can locate them for you. I currently don’t have access to the names.

  • Ann, the dumpling like pastries are called “Katayef” its a Lebanese and Palestinian type of pancake that is eventually stuffed with cream or walnuts sugar rosewater and orange blossom water. It can be eaten either fried or not and usually you add sugar syrup pistachios and orange blossom preserves when you serve (in the case of Lebanon).
    And as some mentioned the food presented is mainly Palestinian, Lebanese and Syrian cuisine (all regional recipes that each country has a different twist to).

  • Mumtaz!!

  • David, your style of writing about food makes my heart sing and reminds me of all the wonderful things the world has to offer us if we are open to new experiences. All of your posts have inspired me to add MANY things to my bucket list! Thank you for the gift you share. I want to go to Isreal.

  • I loved Israel, and all the food I ate in my 2weeks there…..your article, blog just makes my really want to go back. What a wonderful country to be in, truly a trip that is life changing.

  • Oh, David. What a wonderful post. My favorite food is middle-eastern. I used to cook a lot of it before the “troubles.” Then I felt kind of unamerican if I offered this
    wonderful food to my guests. I got looks. I wish I had thought to say that it was Israeli or Armenian food. Please, please write this book.

  • I’m in a trance. It sounds like one of those meals that, no matter how jaded the palate, is utterly transformative. I had a similar, though probably less sublime, experience with a piece of spicy fried chicken yesterday. Hey, what can I say? Not nearly as refined, but transformative nonetheless.

  • @Theramina: Thanks for the fattoush recipe – sounds perfect. When I lived in DC in the late 80’s there was an incredibly good Lebanese take out place that made the best fattoush! My roomates and I feasted on that at least every other day for years.

  • there is a parallel universe and you have landed in it- complete with a rainbow of a different color!

  • Oh my God… I’ve never wanted to crawl through a monitor with a fork before – not until this post.

  • Damn. Thank you. Thank Vibe Israel, too. :)

  • erading about everything you’ve described made my mouth water.


    I’m suddenly very hungry!

  • Hi ,
    Thank you david for acknowledging and loving the arabic cuisine.For the readers who wanted to know the name of the pastries , the folded moon shape one called qatayef .In Egypt we eat it just during the holy month of Ramadan. The other pastry is kounafa belqshta that means kounafa with cream or custard. I hope you visit Egypt one day . The Egyptian food is simple but tasty and underrated. If it possible you can join my family on our next visit to Egypt next year and we will be your guide to the delicious food that some of it go back to the time of the pharaohs.

  • Hello David,

    Thanks for a nice description of Palestinian food.

    That family has lived in the Palestinian city of Jaffa for 120 years – long before the creation of Israel in 1948.

  • That Palestinian food looks divine.

    It brings back fond memories of visiting with my friends a few years back in Ramallah and enjoying fabulous home-cooked meals (Maqluba definitely comes to mind).

    And of visiting Iblin, a Palestinian village in the Galilee and eating Muskhan (the chicken dish you showcase above) straight from the taboun (outdoor oven).

    The Levantine cuisine is a culinary treasure to be cherished.

    Sahtein as they say in Arabic!

  • Dear david
    Thank you for the time you spend withe us and for the kredit that you give me.
    It was nice to meet you.
    See you next time in the resturant.
    Chef omar elwan

  • Great post*

  • Incredible David, just incredible! I want a moment or two with fried cheese myself.

  • I watched you on the Israeli TV.You and the other bloggers were eating in the some of the most successful restaurants in Israel.It seems that you are having a great time .Waiting for more details

  • Your post just killed me.
    I kept reading it, thinking, where the hell was that Israeli restaurant that I didn’t know yet in Paris, I should try it first thing tomorrow at lunch — to eventually find out it’s in Tel Aviv…
    AAArghhh ! Looks sooooo delicious it made me want to go back to Israel instantly. Enjoy your time there !

  • my brain is screaming right now that i do not eat enough arabic food, and i need to turn my life around right quick.

  • I am simply amazed by this post. Beautiful food, written about in a gracious manner. Thank you for serving up such a treat. :)

  • Every now and again I think I have read your best.post.ever.

    I am always proved wrong, eventually.

    Thank you for writing and enjoy your trip.

  • I knew just how Erin felt when she bit into that Halloumi cheese… it can be a special moment! Have a fantastic time… It’s a long way for me to go for a dinner…. but you make me wish that I could… xv

  • “Shalom” David! You whet the appetite and now I must take a trip there… ASAP!
    Thank you for great post – and enjoy!
    Yonatan (Israel)

  • I had my first taste of halloumi not long ago, and I think I had that exactly same dreamy cheese moment as you described (and I’m sure the one I ate wasn’t as good as the one at Haj Kahil). My mouth is watering!

  • Oh man, David, this all looks incredible! I’d been seeing a few mouthwatering things popping up on your instagram feed but this post just makes me want to book the first flight out to Israel, stat! Halloumi, tahini, hummus, lamb, cardamom…. love it.

  • Oh baby.

  • I have unsuccessfully tried to make the kanafeh here in Australia, but the cheese just isnt the same. Could you find out what type of cheese they use?

  • Having traveled extensively, Israel remains and will always be my favorite country to eat in (Italy, Greece and Spain vie for 2nd place). The freshness of the produce and meats means you need to do very little to bring out the flavor. The schug and other condiments complement and enhance the natural flavors. So glad you are finding joy in my favorite country.

  • Oh. My. God. You made me hungry in front of the computer and really really home sick. Haj is my favorite resturant in Jaffa.
    Need to visit home and go eat there. Fast.

  • Whoa. I mean, seriously, whoa.