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chocolate ice cream

I haven’t visited Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams in Ohio, but I’ve heard Jeni Bauer’s ice cream was sensational. Because I can’t get everywhere – no matter how hard I try – her ice cream came to me in the form of her book, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home.

When Jeni’s book was released, we had a nice interchange via e-mail about ice cream making, including her technique for skipping the eggs and using other ingredients to get a specific consistency. She’s a stickler for getting rid of ice crystals so milk and cream get boiled to remove water, and corn starch is added to absorb any additional water that might be lingering in your mixture, to help keep the ice cream as smooth as possible.

It’s a pretty interesting process and just like liquid nitrogen ice cream, it’s another technique that can be added to the canon of ice cream-making techniques. Like the ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, which also minimizes ice crystals, the ice cream is very creamy, yet doesn’t feel as cold when you eat it like traditional ice cream does. I’m not much of a science nerd, but it’s likely because ice crystals are colder than butterfat or milk fat, which is why sorbet, which has more water, tastes colder than ice cream.

The only snag I hit was finding the ice the recipe requests that you gather to cool the mixture down after you make it. Most Paris refrigerators don’t have American-style ice makers, so I started a few days ahead with my single ice-cube tray (I actually have room for two, but my freezer is pretty packed), to make sure I had enough.

ice chocolate ice cream

One question that folks will almost certainly have it regarding the corn syrup. In her ice cream shop, they use tapioca syrup (and tapioca starch) but since those ingredients aren’t easily available, the corn syrup and corn starch are what’s called for. (The syrup is available in some natural foods stores, and online, and tapioca starch can be found in Asian markets.) But the book cautions against using other liquid sweeteners, like honey or agave, and since I cook for myself and don’t buy a lot of processed foods, I can monitor my intake of certain ingredients. And I’m a lot happier.

But all the questions and concerns aren’t the fun part of making ice cream, are they? It’s stirring the chocolate into the warm milk and watching it melt (and tasting a sample as you do), then scooping the finished ice cream from your machine.

chocolate ice cream

Chocolate Ice Cream

Adapted from Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at Home by Jenni Britton Bauer (Artisan)
Jeni Bauer calls this “The milkiest chocolate ice cream” because she likes milk chocolate and unlike dark chocolate ice cream, this ice cream does indeed taste like “a bar of fine milk chocolate.” It has a pleasant sweetness and a consistency as smooth as Swiss chocolate.You’ll notice this recipe doesn’t call for eggs, which makes it suitable for people who are avoiding eggs for various dietary reasons. For best results, sift the cocoa powder to remove any lumps and use good chocolate, one in the range of 55 to 70% cocoa solids.There a note at the end of the recipe, which includes a variation I chanced upon that you might want to consider.
Course Dessert
  • 1 cup (250ml) whole milk
  • 4 teaspoons corn starch
  • 1 cup (250ml) heavy cream
  • 1 cup (250ml) evaporated milk, unsweetened condensed milk
  • 2/3 cup (130g) sugar
  • 2 tablespoons (60g) light corn syrup
  • 1/3 cup (35g) unsweetened cocoa powder, natural or Dutch-process
  • 3 ounces (85g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
  • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, or 1 teaspoon chocolate extract
  • Making a slurry by mixing a few tablespoons of the milk with the corn starch in a small bowl, until smooth.
  • In a 4-quart (4l) saucepan, heat the rest of the milk, cream, evaporated milk, sugar, and corn syrup. When the mixture comes to a moderate boil, whisk in the cocoa powder, then let it cook at a modest boil for 4 minutes.
  • After four minutes, whisk in the corn starch slurry then continue to cook for one minute, stirring constantly with a spatula, until slightly thickened.
  • Remove from heat and add the chopped chocolate and salt, stirring until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. Stir in the vanilla or chocolate extract.
  • Transfer the ice cream mixture into a zip-top plastic bag then submerge the bag into a bowl filled with ice, and let sit until cool, about 30 minutes. (If necessary, add more ice during the cooling period.)
  • Remove the bag from the ice bath and wipe off any excess water. Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream maker, then freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.


Note: After I made this recipe the first time with 1/4 cup (60 ml) of heavy cream, I discovered that there is a typo in the book (which invariably happens), and it actually should be the amount I printed above. Although this affected the yield, I think less cream actually makes for a stronger-flavored, denser ice cream, which reminded me of real Italian gelato. I wasn’t sure which would be best to present for readers. But since in Jeni encourages experimentation in her book, I realized I did a little of my own. If you want to try it with just 1/4 cup (60 ml) cream, you might like it as much as I did. But I’d reduce the sugar to 1/2 cup (100 gr) the next time.


Which cocoa powder should I use?

You can use either natural or Dutch-process. For a more detailed explanation of the two, and the differences, visit Cocoa Powder FAQs.

I really don’t want to use corn syrup. Can I use another liquid sweetener?

If you’re concerned about high-fructose corn syrup, avoid brands that list hfcs as an ingredient and just use regular light corn syrup. As mentioned, tapioca syrup can be used, although other liquid sweeteners behave differently and aren’t recommended by her book. (Although you are welcome to try them. If so, please report on the results in the comments.)

Even after the cooking, there are still undissolved little bits of cocoa powder. What do I do about them?

Take an immersion blender and mix until they’re dissolved. You can use a standard blender but never fill a regular blender more than half full with a warm or hot mixture as it can splatter, even with the lid on. For extra security, cover the blender with a thick dish towel and hold it in place.

I don’t want to use a plastic bag to cool down the mixture. What else can I use?

Make an ice bath: Find a smaller metal bowl that will fit into a larger metal bowl. Add ice, along with some cold water, to the larger bowl then set the smaller bowl into the ice. Pour the ice cream mixture into the smaller bowl and stir until completely cool.

Related Links

Vanilla Ice Cream

Making Ice Cream Without a Machine

Professional Kitchen Tour: Jeni’s Ice Cream (The Kitchn)

Agave-Sweetened Chocolate Ice Cream

Buying an Ice Cream Maker

Salty Caramel (Jeni’s Blog)



    • Caroline

    Oh heavens me. That chocolate looks sublime. And lucky me, I’ll be in northern Kentucky/southern Ohio (because that’s obviously where one vacations when they live in France) in October. I’ll just have to taste test for you.

    • Ann

    Dear god, that chocolate ice cream looks mouthwatering. I’d like a large bowl of that right now, please. :)

    • Kathryn

    That ice cream does look like it has a perfect texture and it’s really interesting to see a different method for making ice cream. Thank you for sharing!

    • Maya

    That looks delicious! I will definitely be trying this out. I’m intrigued by the fact that this recipe uses no eggs, since my mother, who loves ice cream, doesn’t eat eggs. Do you have any suggestions for how regular custard-based ice cream recipes may be adapted using this technique?

    • i

    I really like that you give lots of good advices on experimenting. Which is exactly what I’ll do right about now.. Thanks!

    • Claudia

    I have been cooking from this book all summer – the extra 5 pounds on me will attest to that. I agree with experimenting – she does encourage it! And I appreciate her reasonings as she develops the recipes to suit home cooks.

    • parisbreakfast

    Heading out to get some CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM!
    So true about the paucity of Paris ice trays..
    Like trying to find Peanut Butter in Paris.

    • Jill Colonna

    Fascinating post and thanks for introducing tapioca syrup. Must look this one out. I’ve heard about ice cream without eggs and as I’m always wanting whites for macarons, I tend to shy away from it. But it’s high time I experimented since this looks fabulous.
    These photos are too wicked, however. Since that first photo jumped out the screen at me, I’m now craving chocolate ice cream!

    • Phil

    I know one person here in France that has a fridge with an ice-maker and a cold water distributor. Predictably, everyone calls it “la machine à pastis”

    • Kathy Denis

    So this morning I resolved myself to working efficiently and quickly to rid my desk of all the papasserie I need to go through. David, how do you expect anyone to get anything done when you send such tantalizing emails! Just by reading the subject line, I knew I had to click. Now, I must take a break to read every word you wrote and salivate over the photos……………Thanks for the much needed break.

    • aecummings2

    This book really intrigued me at first, but I don”t want things like corn starch and cream cheese in my ice cream. And I want it to melt into cream not foam. I always achieve perfectly creamy and “brain-freezingly” cold ice cream with your ingredients and method, David, so The Perfect Scoop remains King of the Scoops fo me and mine!

    • suedoise

    There is nothing unhealthier than fructose and starches. Where is the recipe excluding all kinds of sugars for ice cream with cream and eggs?
    I loathe carbohydrates.

    • Jennifer Jo

    I discovered Jeni’s ice creams a month or two ago and fell head over heels. At that point I could only scavenge up a recipe for the vanilla (here’s my post about it:, so now I’m thrilled to have the chocolate recipe at my fingertips. Thanks!

    • Stella

    What can be used as substitutes for this, as I live in Belgium and not sure what these ingredients translate to?

    4 teaspoons corn starch
    2 tablespoons (60 gr) light corn syrup

    • Rebecca

    I don’t have Jeni’s book yet, but I’ve made a couple of her recipes, including chocolate, from newspaper and radio/podcast interview reprints. The versions I’ve seen call for cream cheese instead of evaporated milk. Are there alternatives presented in the book as different recipes or variations on a recipe?

    • suedoise

    To “parisbreakfast” – come on there is plenty of peanut butter on the shelves displaying American products at La Grande Epicérie, the grand food court of Bon Marché department store.

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    Maya: In the book, Jeni writes about how her ‘base’ can be used and adapted for people who want to create a number of flavors. There’s a set formula for substituting egg yolks that I know of though.

    Stella: Corn starch is amidon in French, or Maizena (one could use potato starch as well), and corn syrup is glucose. (Although I’ve seen sirop de maïs, or corn syrup, in natural food stores in France.) The first two are usually found in supermarkets and in Europe, you’ll need to find glucose at a shop that specializes in pastry ingredients, although I find it in Korean markets since it’s used in some Korean cooking.

    suedoise: Because sugar prevents ice cream from freezing too hard, unfortunately it’s hard to exclude from recipes. I recommend people who are avoiding sugar make granitas (or graniti) because the amount of sugar isn’t critical and can be dialed down, or in most cases, omitted.

    Phil: When I made the ice cream a second time, I made an ’emergency’ visit to a friend who has a real ice machine in her home bar. It’s funny that most American refrigerators have ice-making machines in them, while they are pretty unheard of here in France. Unfortunately she’s moving soon and while she offered the ice maker to me, I don’t have the need for an unending supply of ice. (Although I could probably run a side business selling it..)

    • Chef Dennis

    I absolutely love chocolate ice cream and Jenn’s is screaming chocolate!!!
    I can’t wait to give this version a try!

    • Annabel

    I think cornstarch is what is called cornflour in the UK (white – not to be confused with cornmeal, or polenta, which is yellow!). I gather “heavy cream” is more like our whipping cream than the double cream one might assume it is.

    What would happen, I wonder, if one substituted a simple syrup for the corn syrup or glucose syrup in the recipe….

    • Joe Dicker

    I learned a recipe for gelato from a family in Bologna Italy. It is unusual because it is uncooked, This saves the step of making custard, and cooling down the custard.

    It is:
    3 egg yolks
    1 TBS vanilla powder
    150 gr sugar
    250 gr milk
    250 gr cream
    1 oz rum or liquer

    In a large bowl, mix yolks, vanilla, and sugar until smooth and well-blended,
    Mix in the milk and cream
    Pour in to ice cream maker and freeze according to instructions.

    I have used this as a base and make many variations. For chocolate add 1/2 c cocoa powder. (and a little little milk or an extra yolk if the base is too thick.)

    For a maragarita gelato I add two extra egg yolks, omit the vanilla and add 1/2 c fresh lime juice, 1/4 c orange liquer and 1 oz tequilla. (The extra yolks seem to be enough to counter the water in the juice and the alcohol. It is a very soft and creamy ice cream and does not set up hard.

    I hope this is of some interest.

    • Annabel

    PS It occurs to me that you could substitute a bag of frozen peas for ice, like people do if they haven’t enough ice and have hurt themselves. Obviously one cannot then eat the peas, but an emergency ice-pack in the freezer is not a bad idea!

    • Phil

    Tell me about it! I miss being able to pick up a bag of ice at a gas station for a buck or two, or even getting one free at a liquor store!

    There’s always Allo Glaçons! : ) dl

    • Samantha @ Bikini Birthday

    I made Jeni’s base ice cream recipe and I thought it was great right out of the ice cream maker. I did find it a bit icy after I froze it though.
    I’m not sure if that’s because of my add-in (a syrup made of fresh peaches and sugar)?

    • Samantha Angela @ Bikini Birthday

    I made Jeni’s base ice cream recipe and I thought it was great right out of the ice cream maker. I did find it a bit icy after I froze it though.
    I’m not sure if that’s because of my add-in (a syrup made of fresh peaches and sugar)?

    • Lemon

    Oh the ice cream looks delicious. Looks like this is the way to get really good one. So often I have aten “just OK chocolate ice cream”. I love the really nice one. Also, it is interesting that the recipe does not include eggs.

    • charlie

    Hi David,
    Hope this isn’t a question you’ve had to address repeatedly before. On several occasions when making chocolate ice cream I end up with miniscule bits of chocolate that are visible. It doesn’t hurt the flavor or texture but it bugs me. No matter how fine the chocolate or what recipe us used I’ve had this happen several times. I’ve tried using the blender but the specks are still visible. What am I doing wrong?

    • Gretchen @

    Hi David, I am “a science nerd” and I wanted to add a little information about why sorbet feels colder than ice cream. You are right about the added fat; but also, sorbet usually contains more sugar than ice cream, and sugar lowers the freezing point of whatever it is in (sorbet, ice cream). So, more sugar = lower freezing point = colder sorbet. Alcohol also lowers the freezing point, so a sorbet made with alcohol would feel extra cold. (Sorry if this is unsolicitated information, the science teacher in me just couldn’t help it.)

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Thanks Gretchen for expounding on that. When I had that liquid nitrogen ice cream, I was tasting it and thinking, “This isn’t all that cold” – which could’ve been attributed to it not having sat in the freezer for a long time after it was made. But then I realized it was likely because of the reduced ice crystals as well, which is happening with ice cream made this way as well.

    • la domestique

    You can tell the texture of her ice cream is amazing from the pictures. It just looks so good! Thanks for the tips as well.

    • Ed T

    Hi David,
    Now going onto my 3rd yr in Paris, I’ve been convinced by my mom to start cooking in my pseudo-kitchen. I used to make ice cream at my parent’s place in Cali with her/my Lussino gelato/ice cream machine….I’ve been researching for a machine here but they all seem less than stellar(plastic paddles, freeze-first bowls)…any recommendations for a decent machine…? Thanks a bunch!(oops I meant Merci Beaucoup!)


    wow, wow, wow….chocolate ice-cream!!!!!looks so yummy, soft, delicious…really awesome!!!!

    • Anders

    Thank you for this very nice post!

    Being a great fan of starch in ice cream, I remember believing that this was something exclusively oriental. Later, on this esteemed site (thanks, David:-), I then learned that this style of ice cream-making also has a very long tradition in the south of Italy. Given the generally excellent results I’ve experienced, it even seems a bit mysterious to me why this ice cream base is not (relatively speaking) better known.

    I’ve written a little about starch-based ice creams, and you might want to check out the base recipe I have used, to much satisfaction:-). It does not call for condensed milk, nor for corn syrup, although adding any of these easily could be done of course, should one wish to do so:Ice Cream Nation – Sicilian gelato (opens in a new window)

    • julie-d

    Hi David:
    Went on an ice cream making frenzy this summer, buying both yours and Jeni’s books. Your recipes were hands down the winners with my kids and hubby. Without exception, they hated every flavor I made from her book and loved every flavor from yours. Still trying to figure this out, but my advice to readers is to go with your book if they only can afford one. And btw–the Tiramisu ice cream knocked my socks off.

    • Sara

    My dad is coming in a few weeks and asked me to buy him chocolate ice cream. I promised I’d make some (never having made it before). THIS is the recipe. Thank you!

    • Magpies Recipes

    I LOVE Jeni’s! I made her pistachio, salty caramel and recently bourbon ice cream with roasted peaches using your tips of beating the base and adding alcohol to keep the ice cream soft since I don’t have an icecream maker. Works like a charm and love playing with flavor combos of my own :) Thank you!
    Oh and I couldn’t find corn syrup so I used pancake syrups that list corn syrup as one of the major ingreds :0

    • Juliet

    The colour of the chocolate is gorgeous! It looks like gelato in the photo – I assume, though that the photo is of the recipe with the 1 cup of cream? Thank you, David!

    • susan

    David – it is safe to say that I have made almost every flavor ice cream in your book(with the exception of avocado and a few others), so to have another resource makes me smile really, really big. Your FAQ’s are so helpful!

    • Michele

    I have been a huge fan of Jeni’s ice cream when she opened her doors at the North Market here in Columbus, Ohio many years ago. Since those first days, she now has 10 shops Her seasonal as well as her regular flavors are sublime! David, if you ever descend upon Columbus, proceed to Jeni’s immediately!! Great post David, thanks! (I just had this flavor over the weekend, OMG!) :o))

    • aileen @ PharmaFoodie

    I’ve made Rocky Road and Salty Caramel ice creams from your recipes and have loved them. I had high hopes for the Jeni’s cookbook, so I tried the goat cheese and roasted cherries. It turned out to be terrible – it was icier than anything that I’ve tried with your recipes, and I’m pretty sure I followed the recipe to a T. I think I’ll be sticking to your cookbook from now on!

    • The Starving Student

    It’s like a fancy version of what you used to do when you were a little kid, making icecream with 2 ziploc bags and shaking it with salt and ice. Needless to say I think it turns out a tad better!

    • Kerry

    This looks so delicious! I wish it was hot here, sadly its now a bit cold in the UK for ice cream

    • CHN

    Thanks for this recipe. Do you know if she uses fine or coarse salt?

    • sandra

    While you may well be able to substitute one for the other on occasion, unsweetened condensed milk is not the same as evaporated milk, at least not in the UK Condensed is much thicker and gloopy.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Products do differ depending on where folks live. In the US, there’s an explanation of the differences on the Carnation website. According to them, each has half of the water removed, but sweetened condensed milk has sugar added whereas evaporated milk does not. In France, I used Gloria.

    • Aaron

    you came so close to Jenis while you were in the Bay Area.
    Market Hall & Village Market stock it. (BUT its $13 a pint)

    • Rachel Willen

    I like the way you describe how these ultra smooth gelato type ice creams are not as cold as “normal” ice cream because during a recent trip to Europe I was trying to describe to my husband why I don’t like gelato so much…I like my ice cream cold and kind of chunky…with more of a bite to it..not to mention the fact that gelato begins to become soup almost immediately…by the time you finish your little cup of it…it is soup, especially if it’s warm outside…any advice for making ice cream that tuns out less gelato like…thanks!

    • Kiran @

    No eggs?!? I am anxious to try this recipe, no more than ever :)

    • Ashley @peaceloveyumminess

    I just bought an ice cream maker and cannot wait to give this a try. You hear so many different opinions on what makes the best ice cream, but this one looks amazing and I am excited to try it!

    • Will

    Mouthwatering doesn’t even begin to describe the photo of that ice cream. Speaking of mouthwatering, I just finished eating the last lemon bar from your fabulous recipe. I wonder how lemon bars topped with a scoop of chocolate ice cream would taste?

    • Jim

    Could you use Cremodan 30 instead of corn starch in this recipe? Alternatively would you use Cremodan in addition to the corn starch?

    • Julia

    I’m not completely sure about this, but I would imagine that if it’s true that ice cream with more fat seems warmer than ice cream of the same temperature with less fat, it would be because fat has a lower heat capacity than ice. Cold fat will take less heat from your mouth than ice will, and so it will seem less cold, even if it is actually at the same temperature. (It might also have something to do with the phase change from solid to liquid that water will go through but that fats won’t….I wasn’t a chemistry major though, so don’t take my word for it. :) )

    Again, I could be wrong, but I don’t think that the freezing point would matter – that just determines whether the ice cream is liquid or solid, not how cold it feels.

    • Heidi

    I dare ANYONE to look at these photos and not feel immediately refreshed. It certainly worked for me after a full day of humid, unseasonably hot and buggy weather here in New England. David, what’s the secret to making these photos so vivid that you can practically taste the ice cream?

    • Gastronomic nomad

    This recipe is great and looks delicious! I can’t wait to try it. I’m usually horrified at the amount of eggs needed for most ice cream recipes. I’ve tried a few recipes and always get those ice crystals you mentioned which I hate!

    @Joe Dicker, I’m even more intrigued to try yours that has no cooking! Thanks!

    • Eli

    Hi David,
    I don’t want to turn this mouth-watering post into a nerdy discussion, but I felt like I had to comment to confirm Julia’s explanation on why smoother (=with more fat) ice cream feels less cold than sorbet or ice cream with more ice crystals. Water (or ice in this case) has an excellent heat capacity, much higher than fat. Thus ice cream with a lot of crystals draws more heat from your mouth than gelato-like ice cream. The freezing point is irrelevant here since both types of ice cream have the same temperature, i.e. the temperature of your freezer!

    Okay, nerdy post is over. Let me just add that I love your posts and pictures and “reports” from places that immediately go to my must-visit list too!

    Oh, one more thing: we have liquid nitrogen available in the lab and we do make ice cream with it sometimes… It’s awesome! :)

    • Laura

    Hi David,

    I’m not sure if this recipe can rival your chocolate ice cream recipe from your book, but…I’ll give this a try anyway because it looks amazing.

    I have one question about the ingredients. You have “evaporated milk” in the list of ingredients with “unsweetened condensed milk” in parentheses next to it. I thought that these were two different things, no?


    • Leslie

    After this post I had to buy your ice cream book! I’ve been trying to talk my husband into buying one of those Cuisinart ice cream makers. Maybe your book will persuade him.

    • Gretchen @

    Eli & Julia: you’re right! Sorry about the confusion with the info about freezing point; I totally forgot to consider the fact that if the sorbet & ice cream are in the same freezer, of course they are at the same temperature (duh). My husband (an aerospace engineer) wanted me to add to our nerdy discussion that the higher heat of fusion of water also absorbs more energy as it melts in your mouth.

    All apologies to David for hijacking his ice cream post with science-talk!

    • Denae

    I have the fortune to have tried Jeni’s ice creams on multiple occasions, and they are divine! I recently came across the cookbook and already had success making the Sweet Corn and Black Raspberry flavor. I was really surprised that the unexpected ice cream base ingredients turned into a creamy, delightful ice cream. So to those that made Jeni’s recipes without success, I would try again.

    I do have to mention that I am also a Perfect Scoop fan, and love the ice cream formula there too.

    • Natashia@foodonpaper

    Chocolate ice-cream is my absolute favourite! Years ago when I travelled through Italy, I made sure now matter where we were I tried the chocolate ice-cream from every city. Just looking at that photo makes me drool…

    • Ron

    Thank you so much David! I just made this ice cream and the texture was the silkiest I’ve ever had. I also love that there are no eggs required!

    • BobY

    David: This recipe sounds fantastic but I wonder what it would take to give it a dark chocolate flavor rather than the milk chocolate flavor you describe. Thanks.

    • Lando

    Looks delicious! I actually bought the iBook version of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream and was thrilled to watch very instructive, to-the-point videos, as well as some inspirational (?) ones towards the end of the book. Likewise, I found that the chocolate ice cream was a tad on the sweet side, so these changes are a plus! That said, I can’t help but notice the reddish hue in the pictured chocolate ice cream when I compare it to my own – following the same recipe. Did you use natural cocoa by any chance? Or perhaps a mix of the natural + dutch??

    However cliché-ish this might sound: Keep posting! I love this site!

    • Lili

    Hi David – I’m a Perfect Scoop fan and also a Jeni’s Splendid ice cream fan. Love this post! Re: the ice bath issue… I also use ice cubes from a tray but I go a step further and always keep a big metal bowl of iced water in my fridge for the sole purpose of cooling down ice cream. Yes, I make a lot of ice cream and frequently :)

    • Caroline

    Ha! I was wondering when the two ice cream mavens would cross paths… albeit via email. Both your books are on my nightstand. No better way to have sweet dreams than to drop off reading ice cream recipes. Happily, I’ve sampled Jeni’s Dark Chocolate ice cream… a local grocery store here in L.A. carries a freezer full of her goodies (though maybe not for long since I’ve been promoting them). Although I’ve yet to try one of her recipes, I have made your vanilla ice cream, David, and really love the custardy-ness of it. I wonder if I would miss the eggs if they weren’t there?

    Thanks for your blog, which is at the top of my food blog list, and which is a pleasure to live vicariously through.

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    Laura: In my previous comment, I linked to a source and explanation of what they are from a company in the US that produces both evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk.

    Lando: For this I used Hershey’s natural cocoa powder. Sometimes when I’m testing recipes, I’ll use ‘everyday’ products (ie: things commonly found in supermarkets) since that’s often what a majority of people will have available and will use, to see the results. Natural cocoa often gives things a slightly reddish color, such as Devil’s Food Cake although when I use Valrhona or another Dutched cocoa powder, things take on a darker color due to the processing of the cocoa powder.

    • Kristin

    Laughed myself silly over your sesame seed twitter update. My daughter had a similar experience once when she stepped on a raspberry. She thought she had a terrible, unexplained festering foot wound…of course she was probably 10 at the time…what’s your excuse?

    • Lando

    Thanks David! Smart move in using ingredients found commonly in supermarkets! Coincidently, I used Valrhona for Jeni’s recipe: Can’t beat that deep, slightly smokey flavor the French coax out of cacao.

    On another note, though I did not directly taste the cream cheese in the ice cream, I did feel that slightly tangy aftertaste which reminded me it was there… Maybe using that particularly rich cream she gets from the locals over there allow to omit the cream cheese. Thanks again =)

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I only call for a certain brand of anything only if it really makes a big difference since it’s frustrating for people to have to hunt down ingredients just to make something. (Which probably explains why I have seven kinds of cocoa powder in my kitchen cabinet..)

    • Bernadette

    It looks wonderful David but there simply cannot beat your chocolate, I’d find that hard to believe. Yours often transcends me to another place. :)

    • Laina Lamb

    Hi David, I live in central Ohio, so have enjoyed most of the various seasonal flavors which Jeni if famous for. The sweet corn and blackberry is my favorite, and the wildberry lavender and backyard mint are also amazing. For dark chocolate lovers, they also offer that flavor. Don’t forget, next time you are in the states, you can order it online. Thanks so much for all your terrific insight. Loved your cross Atlantic trip on the ship. Hope to do the same someday :)

    • Hilary

    As a Columbus native I’ve been blessed (or cursed) with ready access to Jeni’s for years–I always look forward to her seasonal flavors and am already hoping she’ll be featuring one from last winter when I come home to visit this Christmas–White Chocolate Pine with Red Currant Garland. That’s right, as in PINE TREES. It’s phenomenal.

    • Ann

    I am a Los Angeles native, but lived in Ohio from 2006-07 while I went to graduate school. I had heard about Jeni’s shortly before I lived there. I visited Jeni’s as often as I could because it is indeed amazing stuff! Thanks for your write-up.

    • Yvonne


    Quick question about the ice bath – is it necessary for the consistency to cool the liquid down quickly? (I, too, have few ice cubes and fewer ice-cube trays.) Or, if I am sufficiently patient, would it work just as well to refrigerate over night?


    • molly

    Ha! David, just so you know, you and Jeni live side by side on my bookshelf :)

    My youngest and I were at Jeni’s just this morning, double-dipping into each other’s black currant yogurt/disco melon/passionfruit yogurt, all outrageous.

    Last week, we made the darkest chocolate ice cream from her book (reviewed it for Edible Columbus here, and unconventional as her approach (and ingredients) may be, they worked like a charm.

    As to the cooling, we, too, didn’t have any ice cubes — but had great luck cooling the mixture to room temp, then chilling to cold in the fridge, maybe 2-3 hours total. Kind of missed the instant gratification boat, but a bit faster (and simpler, perhaps) than starting three days ahead.

    When you get a chance? The meyer lemon and lime cardamom are absolutely outrageous.

    • mj

    david, love love love your recipes. sadly, my husband can’t take much cow dairy. do you think goat milk can be substituted in ice cream recipes? it’s hard to determine the fat levels in goat products, but i would be thrilled if i could make more at home ice creams that he can enjoy, too. we’re living in singapore where — hold your breath — ice cream is nearly $20 a pint. so i’m definitely motivated.


    • Mike

    David, thanks for such a great posting. FYI I made this recipe ( among others from Jeni’s book ) and have to report that I chilled the custard overnight with great results. After letting the mix cool, I placed a cling film on the surface and left it in the fridge. The next day, I used an immersion stick to blend the resulting thick mixture. The error you picked up, quite rightly meant that the ice cream was very Italian-style, which you also commented on. There are a few other errors in the book as well, with the amounts of cream usually. She has a forum where she answers queries thankfully. A marvelous and passionate book on the subject, one to give your fine tome some excellent company.

    • Lindsay

    Jeni’s is the best! When I’m in Columbus, I usually get Jeni’s instead of a meal. Glad her ice cream is getting the recognition it deserves.

    • Jennifer Farley (@jwfarley)

    I can’t believe Jeni’s has made it to you in Paris!! I’m from Columbus, but live in LA now and my FB friends from home raved about it so much I had to try it for myself. I loved it. I”m a sucker for flavor risks and Jeni’s doesn’t disappoint. My only complaint is that there are so many flavors to choose from that I can’t decide!! I tasted Black Dog Gelato in Chicago this last weekend and they seemed to be a kindred spirit to Jeni’s (Blackberry Cabernet and Sesame Fig–outstanding!!). Anyway, glad to know there’s a book and I’m certainly curious about ditching the eggs in favor of starch theory. Thanks David!

    • Saira

    I love Ice creams and i have always felt that a home made ice cream tastes so much better than commercially manufactured tubs …. this particular one looks so creamy and delicious that i am tempted to put my ice cream maker in use :-) Love it

    • Steph

    Ooh, sounds delicious! I will try to make this next time. We tried your chocolate ice cream and added in chocolate chip cookie dough. Very nice but a tad too sweet! Of all the ice cream flavours, what’s your favourite combination?

    I made your “Whole Lemon Bars” this morning and took it to work. Everyone who tried it, loved it and I got really high compliments for it! Thanks for making me look like an accomplished baker, David! :)

    • Susan

    I made her recipe for the Blackstrap Molasses Pecan ice cream, and it was so good I couldn’t believe it. The recipe was in Saveur Magazine last month. I mean it was the best homemade ice cream I had ever made. Her technique and ingredients was fun to try, and now I must try the chocolate. You are awesome!

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    mj: I love goat milk but it’s nearly impossible to find fresh in Paris so I don’t have a lot of experience using it. And am not sure what you would swap out for the cream, so perhaps you should search for recipes that specifically call for goat milk. I have a Vegan Strawberry Ice Cream recipe here on the site that has no dairy in it, which would be suitable as well.

    • Katerina

    I wanted to buy this book..But when I went through it on Amazon, I got puzzled. I live in Prague and I know how hard is to translate and than find the right ingredients from American cookbooks. What is cream cheese exactly? Philadelphia? Is corn syrup the same as golden syrup? And condensed or evaporated milk make me desperate, I have no clue what this will be here in the Czech republic. Anyway, David’s book is like ice cream bible for me. I might buy Jeni’s book, but I will probably still stick with the The Perfect Scoop.

    • shuna fish lydon

    This is most interesting, to say the least. Thank you for passing it on.

    Not that your [very full] freezer would allow, but in situations where I don’t have access to ice cubes, but there is a freezer, I free water in the bowl I’m using– even if I can only get a thin shell on top, the “ice water bath” is produced by only a few hours in the freezer {I don’t own *any* ice cube trays”!

    • epic

    The concerns of using corn based sweeteners should not be a concern for most even with the perception of HFCS currently …the stuff we get in super markets is not the same animal, HFCS undergoes further processing(enzymes) to change the glucose/fructose balance upping the fructose and changing the sweetness profile…HFCS is generally not available to the general public and is mostly sold to large food companies and chain restaurants …happy cooking =)

    • Catherine

    This weekend I made David’s chocolate ice cream recipe from the Perfect Scoop. WOW! I highly recommend it! It is a custard and requires cooking the eggs but it is so very chocolatey! So rich and thick that I almost did not put it in the ice cream maker after leaving the custard mix in the fridge overnight, it looked like an amazing creme au chocolat…
    The French person in me could not conceive to use corn syrup in ice cream so I had to turn to the good old classics but was truly glad I did!

    • Beth

    For a great dairy-free/reduced dairy version, I substituted coconut cream/milk (the canned stuff) for cream, and coconut milk (TJ’s milk substitute) for milk. I thought I was making vegan ice cream until I realized I hadn’t substituted out the evaporated milk… though I wonder if another cup of the coconut milk would have worked? In any case, I’ve found coconut products to be a great substitute for dairy in ice cream, particularly for chocolate!

    • Jane Ng

    If you are interested in no eggs, no starch, no cooking frozen dessert, you should try this. I make frozen yoghurt using Balkan style plain yoghurt (6% milk fat) and what is called table cream (18% milk fat) here. The proportion of the base is: between 1/4 to 1/2 cup of cream with the balance being yoghurt making up 2 cups and then I add 3 to 4 tablespoons or more to taste of Nutella. Another flavour I like is Korean Citron Honey Tea which is very much like orange marmalade but I like it better than marmalade. If you like marmalade, you will like it. I use a De Longhi gelato machine. I don’t know if that make a difference. The churning chamber is hermatically sealed so less air is supposed to be churned into the gelato making it denser, smoother – different from ice cream. Anyways, I really like the results. The consistency is like soft serve after 25 to 30 minutes of churning. After it has been frozen in the freezer, it is scoopable and not icy at all.

    The sad thing is my machine is down after just over one year – I think due to leakage of refrigerant. It still churns but it is not cold enough to set it. Although freezing it after 30 minutes of churning will still produce the same scoopable form but I won’t get the soft serve state. Another reason I suspect it is leakage of refrigerant is that I used to smell thing chemical whenever the machine was running but now there is little or none of that smell. At first I just thought it was the new machine smell so I did not pay much attention but always kept the window open when I used it. I wonder if anyone else have the same problem with this machine. Other than this I think it is a good machine because it produces a gelato/ice cream/frozen yoghurt with a good texture in a short time. I only paid $150 + 13% VAT for it because it was on sale. I hope to get it fixed and hope that it would last longer than one year after that.

    Anyone know of another good gelato machine that is not too expensive and is available in Toronto, Ontario, Canada?

    • Jenni

    I’ve been in love with Jeni’s for years!!!, so happy to see that she is growing and spreading across the US, just wish she had made it to Boston before I left for Paris. I’m from Ohio, so it’s number one on my list of places to visit when I’m home. When I worked for Crema in Boston, we ordered Tapioca syrup from a farm in Ohio to use in our granola bars in place of Corn syrup. I didn’t realize she used that in her ice cream. If you ever get a chance to visit Jeni’s definitely try her Bangkok Peanut and Queen City Cayenne togther- amazing combination.

    • Diana

    I’m really excited to try this. I heard her interview on Splendid Table and it made me really hungry for ice cream. I don’t have an ice maker either, we don’t use a lot of ice, just have one ice cube tray in our freezer, so thanks for the warning to stock up!

    • Katerina

    I tried, but it did’nt work. I followed instruction, but the mixture got many lumps, possible from cornstarch thickening..I must have done something wrong, but I don’t have an idea..David’s recipes work on first try. Custard forever. Strong disappoitment for me.

    • Charlotte

    I made this just now, and couldn’t find corn syrup so used golden syrup instead. and my goodness, this ice cream is incredibly smooth, creamy and chocolatey. I’m so happy with it!
    Best ice cream I’ve ever made. :)


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