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American Baking in Paris and in France February 21, 2006
Although we can't expect things to be like 'back home', many of us do miss certain things and for us bakers, it's often a challenge to adapt to new ingredients or ones that behave differently than what we're used to. I've spent a fair amount of time answering messages from Americans searching for ingredients (if someone had told me Ikea was the only place to get mineral oil, that would have saved me three long, difficult, frustrating weeks of searching) so I've been working on this list. So here's what I've learning living, and baking, in Paris....
 Mineral Oil The only place that sells it near Paris is Ikea. Really. I asked at every restaurant-supply shop, specialty paint shop, even my trusty pharmacy, where it seems you can find the most unlikely things. If you need to season a new cutting board, you need mineral oil (any other oil will eventually get rancid, in spite of what they might tell you.) The BHV sells an oil specifically for cutting boards...it's 25 euros a tiny tin.
 Brown Sugar Cassonade sugar is one of the world's great foods. It's pure, natural sugar that's unrefined, with the slightly-sticky cane syrup still clinging to the crystals. It has quite a strong flavor that I love. You can use it for brown sugar, or you can buy the large crystals of light cassonade crystals. Vergeoise sugar is like some types of American brown sugar; it's white, refined beet sugar sprayed with caramel and molasses syrup after processing, and often blonde has added vanilla flavoring. It can be used in recipes like brown sugar, but definitely isn't nearly as good as cassonade and I rarely use it.
 Flour Because flour is a plant (which some people don't realize), the species varies from country-to-country. French 'all-purpose' flour is closer to American cake flour: it's milled very finely and has less-protein and strength. In most cases, you can't just substitute French all-purpose flour in American recipes like cookies and cakes. I know too many Americans who opened the oven door and found all their carefully rolled-out chocolate chip cookies, melded into once, giant blob. If you're interested in the composition of both, you can read about it here.  Look for Type 65, which you can find in natural food stores like Naturalia. I buy the organic flour at Monoprix, which is Type 65.
 Molasses You can buy mélasse at natural food stores, but it's sulphured, unrefined, and very strongly-flavored. When using it in recipes, I cut it with some mild-flavored honey. Otherwise it can overwhelm all other flavors in whatever you're baking. (Unless you like that strong, molasses flavor...then go for it.) Treacle, available in British stores, is a close substitute, too.
Many grocery stores sell lait ribot, fermented milk from Brittany which we drink with crêpes. Arabic markets also sell fermented milk as well. In a pinch, dilute some plain yogurt with milk, about half-and-half and let it sit for 10 minutes before using.
 Yeast You can ask your local boulanger if they'll sell you some yeast, or it's available in supermarkets (not in the refrigerated section, like in America.) You can also buy it in small tins in Arab markets, under the SAF brand. Since yeast is a living organism, the yeast in Europe behaves a bit different than American yeast, but I've had no problems.
 Corn syrup The best substitute is glucose another invert sugar that aids in the prevention of crystallization. It's slightly more viscous and sweeter, but it's fine to substitute. Glucose is available at G. Detou (58, rue Tinquetonne) You can also find light corn syrup (and rice syrup) very cheaply in Korean markets, such as Ace Mart on rue St. Anne and Tang Frères in the 13th.
 Malt Powder & Peanut Butter Like malted milk? So do Indians! Venture up to the area behind the Gare du Nord. At G & Co. (72, rue Louis Blanc) you can find Horlick's malt powder, as well as a host of other familiar and unusual spices and condiments. A fun place to explore, and there's another large grocer on the rue Cail nearby. African Indian, and Asian markets are good places to find peanut butter, and many supermarkets, although I've yet to find a 'natural-style' brand. I've found brands without sugar, but all have added hydrogenated fats added.
 Cream Cheese I've had several French friends say to me, "J'adore le Philadelphia", and I'd think, "Uh, you love the city of Philadelphia?", a bit incredulous that a small, decent American city would cause such rapture. Then I realized they were talking about the cream cheese. Yes, even in the land of the World's Greatest Cheeses, they love cream cheese (...think about it, cream cheese is rather delicious, isn't it?) Desperate Americans housewives often resort to unwrapping the little foil-wrapped packets of Kiri, available at supermarkets, or paying premium prices for European-made Philadelphia cream cheese. However reasonably-priced cream cheese can be found in the Jewish grocer Cash Cacher Naouri (1, rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais). St. Môret is a brand of cream cheese that's inexpensive, and available in supermarkets. And some Franprix supermarkets sell a house-brand as well. Look for the familiar bar-shape. For Sour Cream, I use Bridelice, available in any supermarket. Buy the 15% which is closest to US-style sour cream. Or use the 20% fromage blanc. Others cooks use crème fraîche, which is much richer.
 Corn Meal French people haven't embraced American's interest in cornmeal much. Sure there's polenta, but it's nearly impossible find regular polenta; most of what's available at supermarkets is 'instant' polenta. The health-food store chain Natralia has lots of cornmeal, including various grinds. You can also find it by searching the Arabic food shops along the rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, a wonderful (albeit a tad dicey) street to poke around in the shops and markets. Indian markets also carry it as well.
 Bar-B-Q Sauce Monoprix!
 Baking Powder Europeans buy baking powder is small sachets, where it's called levure chimique. The main difference is it's 'single-acting', which means it starts working right away when mixed with wet ingredients so get whatever you're baking right into the oven. Most American brands are 'double-acting', and contain aluminum, so I bring back Rumford brand, which you can buy here at the Grand Epicerie of the Bon Marché. Baking Soda Baking soda isn't widely used by Europeans for baking, since it's a rather old-fashioned leavening agent, and most Americans use it for Gingerbreads, Devil's Food Cake, and Chocolate Chip Cookies (did you know that baking soda helps things brown?) It used to be that you had to ask the pharmacist. Yet nowadays most supermarkets do carry baking soda, near the salt. I buy it at Indian markets as well. If you're cooking dried beans here in Paris, it helps to add a pinch of baking soda to the water. Since the water is full of mineral, the soda neutralizes much of the acid so the beans will be tender.
 Cocoa Powder All cocoa powder available in Europe is Dutch-processed. If you want to be sure, check the ingredients. Usually a régulateur d'acidité is listed, an acid neutralizer. If you have an American recipe that specifically calls for 'natural' cocoa powder, or non-Dutched, most likely baking soda is called for. You can fudge around that by adding a large pinch of baking powder to your recipe. Comments I am forever posting things like pots of golden syrup, cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda off to friends in Europe. Isn't it amazing how we cherish these finds when others take them for granted. I can see France from Guernsey on a clear day but what a difference in shopping culture. I use golden syrup to replace corn syrup - is that available in France? Let me know if you need a food parcel, Sezz Posted by Sezz at February 21, 2006 4:38 AM On behalf of all the frustrated bakers looking for substitute products in France, I thank you! Posted by Taina at February 21, 2006 5:26 AM How interesting that ALL European cocoa is Dutched, including Valrhona? The M.Cluizel cocoa I bought here recently has not one word on it...Interesting story David :) Posted by carolg at February 21, 2006 6:06 AM Awesome post David! And I had to share with you that I've just found some organic peanut butter, containing just peanuts at Rose Bakery on Rue des Martyrs in the 9th. Its 5.50 a jar but its worth it. I've been without peanut butter all this time until now because like you I refuse to buy the ones loaded with junk in them.. Posted by michèle at February 21, 2006 7:30 AM In America, yeast is sold in a variety of forms and this can be confusing to the amateur baker. It's not just in the refrigerator. You can get it on the shelves in packets, jars, and vacuum-sealed bricks. But the best product (as far as I'm concerned) is the instant SAF yeast sold in bricks, which I think is actually French. Posted by mzn at February 21, 2006 8:37 AM Dear David, Posted by Adam at February 21, 2006 9:14 AM David what a Fabulous post! I am visiting Paris this May and now the only thing I want to do is scour the groceries and find products we don’t have here in the States. I am sure my traveling companions will think I’m crazy. By the way, any suggestions on places to go? I’m already making plans to hit Pierre Herme’s patisserie but was wondering what some of your favorite places to go are. But I’m on a college student’s budget. Posted by Ashlee at February 21, 2006 9:44 AM Sezz - huh? Golden syrup is very very British. Britain is situated firmly on the edge of Europe. I can get it here in CA but its not exactly what I'd call common in the US. ANyway - I digress - my question is about corn syrup. WHich I had never seen ever in any recipe, nor even heard of before I arrived in the US. (and i have done my share of moderately successful baking) Why is it in so many recipes here? Why is it necessary? Indeed can I replace with 'golden' which sounds kind of nicer than 'corn'. What does it do? Posted by sam at February 21, 2006 10:49 AM apolgies to Sezz who I just realises in Guernsey - which is indeed British, oops Posted by sam at February 21, 2006 10:52 AM Sezz: Sam: (Incidentially I once published a recipe that called for Golden Syrup and you would have thought I was asking for the most exotic ingredient, more rare than white truffles! The recipe was for Anzac cookies, which have to be made with Lyle's. In the US, you do have to search a bit, but with the internet, you can get most anything...and it's definately worth keeping a tin of Golden Syrup on hand.) ...and if Britain is Europe, how come they don't use the Euro? : ) Adam: New wood cutting boards should be 'seasoned' with a neutral oil to moisten the wood, and to penetrate and saturate the wood pores to keep it from absorbing juices, and the like. Ashlee: Carol: Mzm: Michèle: Posted by David at February 21, 2006 11:05 AM Bless you!! I'm about to post this link on the English speaking mothers group I belong to here in Paris - sure they will all be interested as it comes up about once a month "where can I find x ingredient/what can I substitutes?"!! Though I see Taina has already seen it...! Posted by Meg at February 21, 2006 4:41 PM David - UK doesn't use the Euro because we declined to sign up to a common european currency when it was introduced - as a result our economy is stronger, our interest rates lower and Sterling (ie the GP£) is stronger as a world (exchange) currency than the rest of the European Union. But I suspect you knew all that already!! Posted by pritty at February 22, 2006 4:12 AM Thanks for this post (even if many of the suggestions are for those living in Paris *pout*)! I've learned to become the substitute queen since living here. After having an impossible time finding corn syrup I finally resorted to buying a can of sliced pineapples and using the packing syrup. Hey, Now tell me where can I find black beans, grits and red pepper flakes and I'll be happy :) Posted by misschrisc at February 22, 2006 10:22 AM Misschrisc: Pineapple syrup? Now that's American-ingenuity for ya...you go girl. Posted by David at February 22, 2006 10:33 AM It's like learning a whole new langauge, isn't it? I thought I lived in a country that spoke the same language as me, but apparently I was wrong. I knew for sure the first time I stepped into a supermarket and found foods called cock-a-leeky and spotted dick... Posted by Melissa at February 22, 2006 6:13 PM lovely posting, so informative, even for those who don't live abroad! makes you appreciate what you do have... Posted by tg at February 24, 2006 3:49 PM Wow, thanks for all the tips! I only have blackstrap molasses, but now I can cut it with honey to make your fresh ginger cake. I also prefer the taste of natural cocoa, so maybe I'll use it in my dutch-process recipes! Why don't you try making your own peanut butter? I'm sure you can get peanuts in an Asian market and grind them in a food processor. Posted by Jessica "Su Good Eats" at February 27, 2006 10:21 PM Thank you, thank you, thank you! You have single handedly made my life so much easier. Now if only I could find unsweetened chocolate... Posted by Kiri at February 28, 2006 3:37 AM Kiri: You can find it! It's called 'pate de cacao' and you can buy it in bulk at G. Detou (address in blog entry) and some chocolate shops carry it, although it will be more expensive. I've never seen it in supermarkets. Posted by David at February 28, 2006 4:03 AM Hi, you probably know about this place, but I was surprised to see that didn't mention Thanksgiving, the cajun restaurant and American grocery that stocks a lot of that stuff. It may be more expensive; I can't remember but I did go a lot when I lived in Paris. Posted by Amy at March 2, 2006 3:23 PM David- Have you ever found jalapenos in any form in France? Comment- I have a friend here in Lyon who has put together a huge list of where to find what we expats need for cooking: Here Thanks so much for the info! Posted by Cheryl at February 5, 2008 1:05 PM Hey, when I lived in paris i would bring all these ingredients with me from the states. there was also the kosher store in les marais called Benchetrit that had many imported products. But eventually I embraced the French baking and now back in america I dont bother with cream of tartar for my eggs, i seek out french cheeses and butter, and oh I miss the ready made pate feuillete and instant creme patissiere! Posted by pessy at March 3, 2008 9:57 AM I came to your web page hoping to find out where I could get my hands on cream of tartar. I went to Biocoop the other day and asked for "creme de tartar" and the lady looked at me really strange. Please if anyone knows where I can find it let me know! Posted by Rita at March 30, 2008 5:33 PM Rita: I think you could find that at Thanksgiving, on the rue St. Paul in the Marais. I'd call them first, just to be sure. There's also a shop called The Real McCoy may have it, too. Posted by David at March 31, 2008 3:01 AM Hi, I am so happy to find your blog! It helps answer all the questions I have for finding baking ingredient in Paris!!! I was having problem finding baking powder and self raising flour. Now looks like I have the brown sugar wrong too. Thank you for sharing. Posted by Rachel at April 3, 2008 11:37 PM Hi David, Posted by Noleen at April 13, 2008 9:58 AM Post a comment |
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