David Lebovitz
circle  Home My Books Bio Chocolate Tours My Paris Schedule Recipes Links
corner Circle     corner
 
Search My Blog:

 

 

The Perfect Scoop

 

Tours
Click Here For Exciting Information About Upcoming Chocolate and Culinary Tours

 


Visit the Travel Blogs Ad Network and the Food Blog Ad Network to advertise here.

 

Categories...

 

Add me to your RSS:




 

Room For Dessert

 

  
  
Read My FAQs

 

Ripe For Dessert

 

Visit David's Flickr Page
www.flickr.com
This is a Flickr badge showing public photos from daveleb. Make your own badge here.

 

Archives
May 2008
April 2008
March 2008
February 2008
January 2008
December 2007
November 2007
October 2007
September 2007
August 2007
July 2007
June 2007
May 2007
April 2007
March 2007
February 2007
January 2007
December 2006
November 2006
October 2006
September 2006
August 2006
July 2006
June 2006
May 2006
April 2006
March 2006
February 2006
January 2006
December 2005
November 2005
October 2005
September 2005
August 2005
July 2005
June 2005
May 2005
April 2005

 

Best Chef's Food Blog 2006
"Best Chef's Food Blog 2006"

 

The Independent
"The best food blog in the world"

 

The Wall Street Journal
"Blog Watch 2006"

 

About
"Top Ten Food Blogs" by About.com

 

WellFed.com Best City Food Blog
"Best City Food Blog 2005"

 

David Lebovitz Archives: February 2007

« January 2007
Main
March 2007 »

REGIS Chocolatier
line

February 27, 2007 | Comments (12)

Living in a foreign country, as an outsider, you tend to notice lots of contradictions. If you try to learn the native language, like I am, you'll notice there's all sorts of curiosities specifically designed to trip your up. When people ask me what I do all day, they don't realize that just to do something as basic as write a check, I often have to pull out the dictionary. (Although I've seen French people consult theirs almost as frequently.)

But English ain't no walk in le parc either...we've got where, we're, wear, ware...that all sound exactly the same but mean pretty different things.


carameling-nuts.jpg

Caramelizing Nuts for Praline at REGIS


One of the things you learn when speaking a new language is that there are lots of rules...and seemingly just as many exceptions. Sometimes they're things not taught in classes but you just need to learn by osmosis.

For example, Paris is generally pronounced Par-EE, without saying the final 'S'.

But if you say the name Régis, you say Rey-GeeSS you certainly do pronounce the final 'S'.

Similarly, if you mention the 16th arrondissement, most Parisians who don't live there (or is that 'their'?) will sneer and say, "Oh, they are all snobs over there" or "I don't like those people there, they're not very nice."

So imagine me being pleasantly surprised when I went to visit REGIS chocolatier in the heart of enemy territory.

Continue reading "REGIS Chocolatier" »

Permalink

 

Allegedly The Birthplace of Kouign Amann
line

February 25, 2007 | Comments (18)

Anyone who uses iPhoto probably remembers your first thrill of plugging in your digital camera and magically, with no effort at all, having your photos automatically downloaded for you. Then they're neatly filed on your computer so you can view, cut, or paste your memories until your heart's content.

It's great for the first few times, but once you've hit a certain number of photos, in my case the 1k mark, things start to slow w-a-a-a-y down, making it necessary to either burn them onto disks like the old days (iPhoto's dirty little secret, forcing us to resort to 'outdated' technology...bad Apple!)
Or sadly, just to delete them.

So I spent my weekend going through my older photos and realized that I never wrote about one of the most special places in France: Locronan, allegedly the birthplace of my beloved Kouign Amann.


locronan.jpg


Note I used the word 'allegedly'.
I'd been told by several French folks that the town is famous as the lieu de naissance of this buttery cake. But when I asked at the Office de Tourisme, the woman there had no idea what I was talking about. And wasn't all that interested in pursuing it with me either. So I'll let someone out there do the research since I'm too involved in burning photos onto disks all weekend. But even though Locronon may not the be the birthplace of this famous Breton Butter Cake, it's certainly become the epicenter for lovers of butter & sugar bound-together.

Although the town is teeming with tourists who come to gawk at the granite buildings and churches, the town is also teeming with other fans of the sweet-stuff: les guepes, or yellowjackets.


rhubarbtarts.jpg


Every bakery had swarms of the lil' stingers flying all around, hundreds of them are everywhere, feasting their wings off on the sugary treats and tartlets for sale, like the rhubarb ones above. The women who work in the bakeries must've made some top-secret pact with the bees since they showed no fear of them and would swat 'em away while packing up tarts and cakes. We decided to use the bees as a guide and follow their advice, since they'd probably know which was the best Kouign Amann in town. Like truffle hunters use pigs and dogs, this pastry-hunter decided to follow the bees, and I reasoned the places with the most yellowjackets would have the best pastries.

Continue reading "Allegedly The Birthplace of Kouign Amann" »

Permalink

 

The Power Of Good?
line

February 23, 2007 | Comments (9)

My friend Patricia Rain was just pronounced to be fully-cleared of an agressive and invasive cancer, which she'd been fighting with a combination of mainstream and alternative treatments since 2004.


vanillabeans3.jpg


I sometimes get messages from people pointing me to bargain deals they find on vanilla beans online, but I'm happy to spend a bit more on the top-quality beans that Patricia sources, who's dedicated herself to doing the right thing for the native farmers by working to ensure that the producers she works with get their fair-share of the profits. I suppose it would be different if I was going through a few kilos of vanilla beans a week, but for a couple of beans I split and use per month making Vanilla Ice Cream or adding to a batch of jam, paying an extra couple of dollars per year is money I consider very well-spent. Especially when I pull a slender bean from my stash, roll it around, and take a whiff of the tiny, fragrant seeds that cling to my fingers. The smell of pure vanilla is perhaps the most complex, captivating smell I can think of.

We're often faced with lots of choices in the marketplace.

Continue reading "The Power Of Good?" »

Permalink

 

Pastry Chef Sherry Yard
line

February 21, 2007 | Comments (13)

With all due respects, the first time I met Sherry Yard, I was squirming in my seat. I was sitting in the originally Spago, in West Hollywood, overlooking the city of Los Angeles. The room was filled with celebrities, but I remember getting special treatment.

I arrived in my best; a well-tailored Italian wool suit that I hoped made me fit in a little better with all the glamorous types seated all around me. It was a great meal, and we were having a wonderful time. But the longer I sat in the stylish chairs, the most uncomfortable I was becoming. It wasn't that I felt out of place. It was that my rear-end was starting to itch uncontrollably.

I knew that I shouldn't stand up and engage in an all-out scratch-fest (although nothing would have felt better), but I didn't know what to do. The longer I sat, the more intense it got. The wool in combination with the padded chairs was driving me nuts!

But soon enough, it was time for dessert, the cavalcade started. Sherry starting bringing out all sorts of wonderful things; tastes of hand-dipped dark chocolates, puckery lemon tartlets, and twists of crackly caramel that were so stunning, all these hot-shot celebrities starting looking at me.

But miraculously, as I started to spoon up and savor all these desserts, the itching subsided and each dessert was more delicious than the next. That was the first time we met and I was charmed at what a genuinely lovely and funny person Sherry is.


sherryyard.jpg


A few years later, Sherry moved over to Wolfgang Puck's newer Spago restaurant, located a few miles away in swanky Beverly Hills which replaced the original. Since we were pastry-pals, Sherry and I run into each other every now and then over the years; her vivacious personality is infectious and I don't know anyone who's more enthusiastic about what she does than Sherry. And if you talked to her for a few minutes, as I recently did, you'd see what I mean...


David: Every time I talk to you there seems to be something new and fabulous going on in your life. After all, being the pastry chef at Spago in Beverly Hills makes you the pastry chef to the stars. Plus you make the dessert for the big Oscar dinner every year.

Who are some of your favorite celebrities that you've cooked for?

Sherry: I guess you can say them all, from David Lebovitz to Presidents.


David: Thanks for the flattery, but compared to Madonna and Andy Dick (ick!), I'm a rube. But I loved celebrity-watching and Spago is the best. I one stood next to Shaq O'Neill there and his feet were huge! But your boss is a bit of a celebrity too. You've been with Wolfgang Puck for a long time as his executive pastry chef.

How's it been working with him, and what's he like as a boss?

Sherry: At the 2000 Bon Appétit Awards, Barbara Fairchild introduced Wolfgang Puck as my boss. His response, with a chuckle, when he walked up to the mike was "Anyone that knows Sherry knows she is my boss!"


David: He's actually quite funny, and works very hard too, which I think is because he was trained as a chef from a really early age. I also like that he gives ample credit to the chef's in his restaurants, and they tend to stay with him for a long time.

I love the desserts you make. They're always so contemporary, with clean, modern tastes yet grounded in traditional pastry techniques. I remember a Concord Grape Gelée that you made, enrobed in dark chocolate that was exceptionally good.

Continue reading "Pastry Chef Sherry Yard" »

Permalink

 

Blog+Spam x Server=No Email
line

February 20, 2007 | Comments (5)

You may have noticed a couple of explicit comments here on the site (more than the usual ones that I leave...)

Although I've closed comments for older posts due to spam, now they're appearing in recent ones, which I delete as soon as possible. (Yesterday I deleted 4785 junk messages.) I'm adding a comment verification feature shortly which should alleviate the problems, since I welcome and enjoy all your comments very much!

Consequently, many emails are not reaching me as well, for some reason, or are being returned as undeliverable. I don't know. If you've recently sent an inquiry, please check the FAQ's in the Category box (to the left) which may provide an answer to your question, or leave a comment here.

Permalink

 

Sunday Stuff
line

February 18, 2007 | Comments (13)

Global Warming=More Ice Cream

I recently recommend an ice cream maker to one of my friends. It was the model I used to test many of the recipes for my upcoming book, the Cuisinart ICE-50. He then sent me a message that Amazon is currently selling reconditioned models of this machine for just $129!
(That's $270 off the list price.)


cusinartice50.jpg


That's an amazing price for an ice cream machine with a powerful built-in freezer. Previously, similar options were Italian ice cream machines that cost four-times that price. So no more jamming your canister in your freezer in advance, smashing that box of fish sticks and pushing further to the back the panopoly of long-forgotten containers of freezer-burned who-remembers-what.

You just press the button and start churning away. I don't know how long this offer will last, so get one while you can. I've been using my daily for months with excellent results (and have the gut to prove it.)

And they make excellent slushy frozen margaritas too...


2007 Bloggies

Congratulations to friends of mine, and of this site, for their nominations for 2007 Weblog Awards and the winners will be announced March 12th.

You're probably wondering what happened to my nomination.

Continue reading "Sunday Stuff" »

Permalink

 

Seville Orange Marmalade
line

February 16, 2007 | Comments (32)

I was going to write a post, and call it, The Rabbit of Seville. If you're old enough to remember, there was a Bugs Bunny cartoon that was a spoof of The Barber of Seville*, and that's what it was called.


cutoranges.jpg


In French, there's a phrase, Poser le lapin (or Poser de lapin), which means "to pose like a rabbit", but really means "to be stood up" (not that I would know anything about that...) So I thought it would be clever and a good spoof to title this post for Seville Orange Marmalade with something along those lines. But then I got really busy and couldn't find a way to spin it into a good story, and thought maybe half of you out there might not know what The Barber of Seville was anyways and you'd think I was loony tune myself.

As mentioned, I've been quite busy. Too busy, in fact, to look up whether it's Poser le or Poser de. And since Seville orange season is short and fleeting, I wanted to get this post up sooner rather than later.

And what was I doing, you might ask?

Continue reading "Seville Orange Marmalade" »

Permalink

 

Hot Chocolate With Caramel-Beurre-Salé
line

February 14, 2007 | Comments (26)

My ultra-special mix for Hot Chocolate with Salted Butter Caramel is now available at several outdoor markets in Paris, and we hope to make it available to our friends in the US and elsewhere.


hotchocolatemix.jpg

Each basket contains a pot of handmade salted butter caramel, French bittersweet chocolate, fleur de sel, and a wooden salt shovel


One kit (12€) makes 6 warming cups of the most luscious hot chocolate you'll ever have since it's infused with smooth, buttery salted caramel (made with Breton butter), bittersweet French chocolate, and a soupçon of hand-harvested fleur de sel. It's equally delicious made with whole or low-fat milk.
I love it, and I hope you will too!

You can inquire about overseas shipping at Traditions Guérande, or visit Régis Dion at one of these markets in Paris this weekend at times noted, and on a regularly scheduled basis thereafter.


Richard Lenoir Market
Bastille (11th)
Thursday & Sunday mornings
Métro: Bastille

Cours de Vincennes Market
Place de la Nation (12th)
Wednesday & Saturday mornings
Métro: Nation

Popincourt Market
Oberkampf (11th)
Third friday morning of each month
Métro: Oberkampf

Permalink

 

Bourdain's Food Network Take-Down
line

February 13, 2007 | Comments (73)

It started at Michael Ruhlman's site (which is up to 468 comments) with Anthony Bourdain's take-down of the Food Network.

Then it moved over to Elise's Simply Recipes, where I felt compelled to add my 2 centimes worth....


"I'm curious when people say they appreciate these time-saving cooking shows. But really, how long does it take to make good food? A roast chicken can be tossed with a broken up head of garlic and some herbs in less than 30 seconds. And how many seconds does one save by opening a bottle of pre-made salad dressing as opposed to mixing together a few spoonfuls of olive oil & vinegar? Is it really that much easier to rip open a box of cake mix than to drop a stick of butter in the mixer, add some eggs, then stir in some flour?

And doesn't homemade foods taste better, and is far healthier for you (and much less-expensive), than all those convenience foods? Other than as a gimmick, I don't see how how saving a few minutes is really worth sacrificing your family's health and well-being for by using all these processed foods. While I don't begrudge any tv chefs cooking with real ingredients, it's quite a disservice to spray things with aerosol cheese and call it dinner."


While I realize that everyone's busy (and I'm sure to get some remarks that not everyone gets to live in Paris), I wonder what people are doing where they don't have time to eat anymore. When I moved to France, they practically had to nail me in my chair to get me to sit down and have a decent meal. I was so used to eating on the run (in my car, in the shower, etc...) But cooking and eating are two of the most fundamental things that human beings do, but what's happened to us if we can't do them anymore?

I feel bad when people tell me they don't have time to cook.
Not everyone has the luxury of going to an outdoor market like I do and doing their shopping, then taking the time to prepare a proper meal three times a day. Especially in these days of multiple jobs and kids running underfoot. But surely stopping in the supermarket, picking up some chicken and vegetables, and roasting them in the oven with a drizzle of olive oil, salt and pepper for an hour takes marginally more time than dumping cans into a saucepan. And isn't it far tastier and more nutritious, and cheaper than pre-packaged foods you'd heat up in a microwave? I can't believe that popping frozen waffles in the toaster and dousing them with artificially-flavored syrup really easier, less-expensive, or better for anyone than a few slices of toast with butter and honey.

Why are these programs so popular?

Permalink

 

Je suis French
line

February 12, 2007 | Comments (13)

I think I've finally become French.

At the supermarket this morning, my total came to exactly 15€.
I fished around my wallet and found a 20€ note.

So I handed that over.


With an apology, of course.


Permalink

 

Getting Your Butt to Melt
line

February 11, 2007 | Comments (12)

I don't know if some of you noticed this, but there's been a petit void in cyberspace lately. As some of you know, Michèle of Oswego Tea has moved to London and at the same time ended her blog. The good thing is I don't need to add that pesky backwards accent anymore now that she's moved to England. (Although she started adding the British extra u to words like flavour...who does she think she is anyways, Madonna?)

A while back one of my readers advised if I ever got back to London, I need to go to Melt, one of the highly-regarded chocolate shops in the city. Since I didn't know when I'd get back there, I thought I'd send Michele in to check it out.

So I started bugging Michele to get over to Melt to hopes she'd write an entry here about it. It took her a while, but she finally wrote back, saying she was really busy after her move, but realized that it was time to "...get my ass to melt!"

However in deference to folks searching the internet for photos of butt-melting (which I'm sure there are out there...) I changed her wording a bit since I didn't want to get my potty-mouth washed out with soap, like Michele's gonna get next time she comes back to Paris for punishment.
Which may incite more internet searches, bien sûr...

While I've no doubt pictures her butt melting might be far more intriguing to some readers out there who came expecting something other than a visit to a chocolate shop, you'll have to make do without. But for those of us who've missed Michele's terrific blog, I finally was able to get her to do her guest post here on my site about getting her butt to Melt.
And here it is.


meltfront.jpg


Getting My Ass To Melt

When a friend sends you an email asking for a favour, admit it, sometimes you worry. In the back of your mind there's this nagging voice that says "Please don't let it have anything to do with moving a large couch up a narrow flight of stairs.."

Luckily for me, the friend in question was David, who at the first mention of looking for a new apartment will come right out and say "Don't ask me to help you move." I think he waved a finger the first time he said that to me.

The favour he wanted of me?

Continue reading "Getting Your Butt to Melt" »

Permalink

 

Browsing in Paris
line

February 8, 2007 | Comments (29)

Yesterday, I decided that since I was the last person in the world to be using Safari as a web browser, I should switch to Firefox. Everyone says it's better and since I use Movable Type for the blog, Firefox has little buttons to make things bold or to italicize, so I don't need to type in a bazillion symbols everytime I do that.


stiltonbread.jpg


About twenty years ago, which I hope means the statutes of limitations has run out, when working in that vegetarian restaurant I mentioned, someone brought in something for us to, er...well...let's just say, it was something that was designed to change your perception of reality if you took it.
So of course, we did.

When you work in a restaurant, you develop a rhythm, especially when it comes to setting up your statio in preparation for the rush of customers. If you have a fixed menu and you've been working in the same place for a while, when you arrive, you can almost work on auto-pilot to make sure everything's in place (called mis-en-place), so when the rush comes, you're full-organized and never get buried under orders (or as they say, 'in the weeds'). If you've done it right, the evening runs like a finely-tuned Swiss watch. If not, you've got no business in a restaurant kitchen.
And your night will be a catastrophe (not to mention the customer's as well).

So one evening, someone brought in something which we ingested that was terribly strong and radically alerted our 'perception of reality' (yes, even vegetarians have their vices). As we started our work, though, the owner arrived and surprised us with a brand-new menu, full of items we'd never seen before. So we had to completely change our set-ups and prepare all new dishes.
It was a massive bummer, to put it mildly.

It's like your computer crashing, taking everything with it, and you need to re set-up everything again. To make a long (long) story short, once the customers arrived, it was like your worst dream coming true, the kind where you're running towards something, but the faster you run, the farther away it gets. So as the order tickets started coming in, we all panicked and found ourselves seriously in the weeds (in more ways than one), and the evening was a catastrophe.

When I installed my new browser yesterday, everything changed on my little Mac.

My beloved bookmarks, which I've spent years collecting, I cherished as your grandmother cherishes her Hümmel figurines, were gone. And the look of my blog platform changed: Yes there were those terrific little buttons that add links, italics, and what-not, but each time I used one, it jumped up to the top of the document, meaning I had to re-scroll back to where I was typing, prompting a mad dash to find where I left off. So like coming down from a bad high, back to my familiar reality, I've returned to Safari.

I guess old habits die hard. Like my love for rustically grainy breads, and had a chance to return to one of my favorite bakeries in Paris yesterday when I had a doctor's appointment on the other side of the city.

Continue reading "Browsing in Paris" »

Permalink

 

Paris Pas Cher: 8 Money-Saving Tips for Paris
line

February 7, 2007 | Comments (23)

When I moved to Paris, I was pretty shocked at how expensive things were. And I don't mean Louis Vuitton suitcases or Kelly bags. Something as simple as a sponge at the supermarket would cost 4€ or a plastic storage container at BHV might run you 15€ around here.

Ouch!

Then I learned about the Paris pas cher stores all over town. Although concentrated mostly in the less-chic neighborhoods, they're sort of 'catch-all' shops that sell everything from scissors, thongs, cookware, hammers, luggage, lice shampoo, and old Nicole Kidman movies she made when she was a teenager, when her face was far rounder (and she had the ability to move it), and her hair was a mess of long, unruly curls and she wore ratty red-hooded sweatshirts. (I'm kicking myself ever since for not buying one. That would have been perhaps the best 1.5€ I ever spent.)

Since discovering the Paris pas cher stores, in spite of the frightening Nicole Kidman DVD's you sometimes might run across, I've found they're great places to scratch your shopping itch. You never know what you're going to find exactly, but they're great fun to wander through and see what they've got if you pass one. You'll know you've found when if there's lots of stuff hanging from the ceiling, stacked out front, and piled high if you peek inside. Frequently there's an overwhelming smell of insecticide or mothballs, but you get used to it after a few years, I guess. (Judging from the people who run them, who seem to be oblivious.)

Paris pas cher, in case you didn't know, means 'Paris Not Expensive', and the term is also used to denote bargains in the city. Since the dollar is tanking, I thought I'd share a few of my money-saving tips with you I've learned along the way:


Drink Like a Parisian

If you're sitting in a café, you'll notice that few people are drinking soda. Most are lingering over tiny coffees, which cost about 2€ instead. You can stay as long as you want without having to order anything else once you've finished, no matter what you ordered. My theory is people order coffee because it's the cheapest thing you can get. I'm often guilty of that too. (If they ask you to pay, it's usually because the waiters are changing shifts, so don't fell obligated to split.)

Standing at the counter cuts the prices roughly in half so if you're just looking for a quick thirst-quencher or a shot of caffeine, you might want to stand.

(I'm a total rube myself. One of my first times in Paris, I ordered a coffee at the counter, then carried it over to a table. That got quite a response!)

In a café, order wine by the carafe which is usually drinkable and inexpensive. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money on wine in a regular restaurant either. Unlike in America, it's easy to find good wines in the 15-25€ range. Don't be afraid to order the Vin du mois or something they're featuring.

Continue reading "Paris Pas Cher: 8 Money-Saving Tips for Paris" »

Permalink

 

The Best Croissant
line

February 5, 2007 | Comments (28)

I Ate A Croissant

Yes, I know.
That simple sentence means I'm surely asking for it.

I'm sure on one of those bulletin boards somewhere, someone will be making fun of me, "Wow, David Lebovitz is bragging about eating a croissant. Who does he think he is anyways?"

It's a common joke among Americans who live here that people think all we do is sit around eating croissants, visiting museums, praying for salvation at Notre Dame, and climbing the Eiffel Tower every afternoon.


croissant.jpg


Truth is, I don't eat croissants very often for the simple reason that I don't like to get dressed until I've had my morning coffee & toast. So having one is a relatively big deal for me, since croissants are only good early in the day: I refuse to eat one after 11am if I can help it. Like anything made with copious amounts of butter, they don't get better the longer they've been out of a hot oven.

Although stories abound, no one quite knows who invented le croissant. It's believe to be in an invention of the Austrians, who created a crescent-shaped pastry to oppose the Ottomans, who had invaded their country. They symbol of Turkey is a crescent, and granted, who doesn't like to eat Turkey?

Except maybe vegetarians.
So maybe croissants were invented by and/or for vegetarians? Aha...a new theory emerges...this is how rumors get started on the internet, folks, and perhaps people will be quoting me decades later: "David Lebovitz says croissants were invented for Austrian vegetarians!"

(Surely followed by, "And who does he think he is anyways?")

But today, I think few would argue that the croissant is most closely associated with France and in fact, one rarely comes across a bakery in Paris that doesn't offer their own version. If you need further proof of their proprietary aliance with French gastronomy, ask yourself when was the last time you heard the words das croissant?

(Ok...case closed.)

Continue reading "The Best Croissant" »

Permalink

 

Do You Know Beans? Les Haricots Tarbais
line

February 3, 2007 | Comments (28)

Back in my intrepid youth, when my hair dipped below my ears (when I had hair, that is...), I flirted with vegetarianism.


hoofpan.jpg


I should probably say it was more than a passing fancy; I was a veg-head for about six years and even worked in a vegetarian restaurant. At Cabbagetown Café in Ithaca, New York, we'd ladle up bowls of Cashew Chili or curious soups, like the one that a bra-less (and pendulous) co-worker would insist on enriching with generous dollops of peanut butter.

And don't get me started on the bizarre customers we'd get. We had one regular, whose name we didn't know (so we just called her 'Beyond') who would sit in the dining room and order only a bowl of brown rice. Then she'd spend hours in the dining room writing in her journal, in the teeny-tiniest letters imaginable, eating her rice grain-by-grain.

And we never knew what our long-haired baker would come up with. He once made a lovely-looking, golden brown-crusted pie for dessert. When I cut it open that evening to serve the first wedge, I'd discovered that he filled it with sweet black beans and an alarming amount of cumin.

(Unfortunately, it, um, accidentially fell into the garbage before I could serve it.)

Eventually I got tired of being served pizza smothered with soggy 'veggies' (God I hate that word...is it really all that hard to say 'vegetables'?) and was constantly dreaming about diving into a big, soft, overstuffed corned beef sandwich.
When I told my 'alternative' doctor about that, he said, "You know, if you're craving something, that means your body needs it. So you should probably go ahead and have it."


shankpan.jpg


With that advice, I left his office and made a beeline to the nearest Jewish deli, and ordered a big, honkin' mound of hot corned beef barely contained by two sharp-crusted pieces of caraway-flecked rye bread with a smear of hot mustard. And from that day on, my vegetarianism was kaput.
My mother, by the way, could not have been more pleased since before, whenever I'd arrive home for a visit, she'd be carving a big slab of alarmingly-rare roast beef.

Continue reading "Do You Know Beans? Les Haricots Tarbais" »

Permalink

 

FAQs
line

February 3, 2007 | Comments (10)

In this section, you'll find answers to some of my most commonly-asked questions, including...


  • Paris Hotels and Restaurants: Kindly read my FAQs before emailing me questions about travel planning in Paris, as well as internship and career advice. If you're looking for specific information about restaurants, bakeries and chocolate shops, please be sure to scroll through the 'Categories' at the site where I've listed them all for easy browsing.

  • Sending Messages: While I appreciate enthusiasm, it's hard to read and answer questions embedded in very long, multi-paragraphed emails, especially if there are lots of questions sprinkled throughout. Brevity is appreciated.

    Please note that I use Hotmail.com, a domain which gets blocked or automatically junked by various servers, most notoriously AOL and, oddly, Hotmail. Putting me on your safe list (davidlebovitz AT hotmail.com) will help ensure a response.

  • Cooking Classes: If you're looking for advice about taking a cooking, pastry, or chocolate classes in Paris or France, I don't have any specific recommendations. But here's a list of cooking and pastry classes where you'll find them all listed, with links and specialties.

  • Getting Together: Unfortunately because of my book projects and writing, my schedule doesn't leave time for get-together with visitors—I barely have time to see my friends! But I sometimes host get-togethers in Paris, which I post on my blog when they occur and are great ways to meet up.

  • Links & Exchanges: There's a lot of terrific blogs out there but I can't mention them all. If you want to add you link to my site, you can do it at Food Blog Links. My policy on link exchanges is similar to the one outlined here.

  • Recipe Queries: I'm unable to assist with questions about recipes that aren't mine. I suggest you contact the author or chef as they're best-suited to answer your questions and help you out.

  • Sending Products and Reviews: If you wish to send me a product, I may or may not be able to accept it. And if I do accept it, I may or may not write about it on the site. I appreciate your understanding that this is my personal blog and due to past experiences, I can't allow others to influence what gets published here on the site.

    I make no promises that your product will get mentioned nor can I promise to link to any other specific posts on another blog or website under any circumstances. This goes for all book reviews, product reviews, and link requests—without exception. Thanks for your understanding.


The following are some resources and links to the places on my site or on the web that may answer your questions.

If you have specific inquiries that aren't addressed or answered below, or just want to say hi...feel free to drop me a line!


Living In Paris

Q: Why did you move to Paris?

A: Because I wasn't breathing in enough second-hand smoke in America.


Q: Did you speak French before you moved to Paris?

A: No.


Q: Aren't Parisians rude?

A: It's an unfortunate stereotype and there are rude people everywhere. In my experience, people here are been very welcoming and tolerant of me, bumbling their beautiful language and adapting to the customs. I've seen perhaps more tourists be rude to Parisians than the opposite. Way more.


Q: How long do you plan to live in Paris?

A: Probably about as long as you plan to live where you live now.


Q: How do you stay so thin?

A: Actually, I fall within the range of what is considered 'normal' for my height and age. I walk a lot, as well as engage in regular exercise. I have a black belt in karate and a second-degree black belt in aikido, and I currently practice yoga 3-4 times per week.

I eat a high-carbohydrate diet, which includes lots of bread, and a moderate amount of meat and fat (mostly in the form of cheese and dark chocolate). I very rarely eat junk or pre-prepared foods nor do I drink calorie-laden coffee drinks topped with whipped cream in 24-ounce portions.


Q: Ginger or Mary Ann?

A: The professor. Or maybe Little Buddy if I've had a few drinks.


Vacationing in Paris

Q: I'm coming to Paris! Can you give me restaurant or hotel suggestions?

A: You'll find many of my personal suggestions already here on the site for hotels, restaurants, and my favorites shops. Search in the Paris Travel Tips as well as My Paris for restaurants and places to eat.

You can also use the search engine on my Home page for specific suggestions as well as the Categories for shops, bakeries, chocolate shops, and markets.

If you're interested in renting a short-term apartment (for a few days or a week), this site boasts a comprehensive listing of the agencies with links which rent Paris apartments in all price ranges.

Here's a few links with safety tips:

  • How To Avoid a Pickpocket
  • Paris Ring Scam
  • Parisian pickpockets

    In general, Paris is pretty safe. No need to be paranoid; just cautious.


    Q: I'm too lazy to search your blog for tips. Can't I just email you?

    A: Unfortunately I don't have time to assist individuals with their travel plans, but I do recommend a few specialists: Secrets of Paris, Paris Trip Tips, and Take My Mother Please for personalized vacation planning.


    Q: We're coming to Paris and want to meet you. Can we meet?

    A: Geez, I barely have time to see my friends, so I'm generally unable to greet new folks. Although I can be bribed with a fancy dinner: minimum one-Michelin star.

    If you'd like to meet, or visit my favorite market or chocolate shops with me, you might want to sign up for one of my Paris Tours. You'll get so much of me, by the end, you'll be begging for mercy!


    Q: Where are all the outdoor markets in Paris?

    A: You can find a complete list of them in English here.


    Q: We want to book a tour with you. When are you available?

    A: Due to various projects I no longer offer day-long chocolate or outdoor market tours in Paris. If you're looking for a market or culinary tour, you may wish to visit my friends at Context Travel.

    I do offer week-long tours once or twice a year and you can read more about them here: Chocolate Tours.


    Q: What foods can be brought back from France to the US?

    A: Fresh meats, fruits and vegetables are prohibited for sure. Often you can bring back raw-milk cheeses as long as they're in quantities obviously for personal consumption and not resale. Many cheese shops in Paris will pack them sous vide, cryo-vac'd, for transport, which I highly recommend doing. (There is often a small surcharge for that.) Foods packed in cans are normally fine and some things in jars are, but occasionally meat products in glass, like foie gras, can be iffy. Personally, I've not had problems with chocolates, filled or solid bars.

    Rules change frequently, and without notice, but here's the latest information that I know of for bringing foods home from abroad.


    Q: Do you recommend travel insurance?

    A: I don't have much experience with travel insurance but experts say it's a good idea to have it. Be sure to check those with limitations for pre-existing conditions and the like. World Nomads was recommended to me by friends and has an informative website, but I haven't used them. Here's a good article with information, and Travel Insurance Review is full of useful information as well.

    If you're American (or English-speaker) the American Hospital in Paris offers treatment for emergencies and other ailments, and is familiar with American-style health insurance plans. You'll need to pay at the time of treatment, then apply for reimbursement from your plan back home.

    Should you have the need for medical care while in France, SOS Médecins will come right to where you are—24/7, for a reasonable fee.


    Q: Do you know those guys from Chez Panisse who do the supper club in Paris?

    A: Yes, I do.
    You can get more information about Chien Lunatique and contact them here. They are part-time residents of Paris so may not respond to emails if bookings are unavailable.

    There is also another supper club in Paris, Hidden Kitchen, which does private dinners as well.


    Q: We're looking for romantic restaurants. Any suggestions?

    A: You can find suggestions on the site here.


    Q: Do you have any recommendations for cooking classes and schools in Paris?

    A: You can find my list of cooking schools & classes, as well as wine-tastings here.


    Q: Can you give advice about the professional cooking schools in Paris?

    A: I only attended one, but there's a pretty good discussion on eGullet from folks who've attended the others.


    Q: Can you recommend a private chef in Paris?

    A: Since I haven't had the need to hire a private chef here, so I can't vouch personally for their services. But two people you may wish to inquire with are Braden Perkins (of Hidden Kitchen, above) and Edward Keller.


    Q: Can we use our mobile phones in Paris?

    A: I'm not much of a techie so it's best to contact your provider at home. To avoid roaming charges, you can rent a phone from Context Travel during your stay.

    You can also buy a 'sans abonnement' (no subscription) phone, where you purchase the phone then add minutes by buying the numbers which you punch into the phone at Tabacs and phone stores. In general, the phone will run you less than 99€ and you can use it forever. (Although you lose your phone number if you don't use it after a certain amount of time, often 6 months, but you can get another number on your next trip.)

    The three major phone companies which provide mobile service are Orange Mobicarte (France Telecom), Entrée Libre at SFR, and Nomad at Bouygues. Virgin Mobile is making inroads into France as well with similar service. There are mobile phone shops all over Paris, such as Phone House, as well as in the major department and electronics stores such as Darty and FNAC.

    Here's more advice about which kind of cell phone coverage might be best for you.

    More Tips For Paris Travel

  • Gluten Free Paris
  • 10 Delicious Things Not to Miss in Paris
  • Tipping in Paris
  • Accessible Travel in Paris
  • Getting Money in Paris
  • My Paris (Restaurants & Advice)
  • Paris Dining Guides
  • Finding A Hotel in Paris
  • Paris Airport Transfers
  • Ways To Save Money in Paris
  • Some Favorite Paris Restaurants
  • Vegetarian Dining Tips for Paris and a list of Vegetarian Restaurants


    Chez Panisse

    Q: How long did you work at Chez Panisse?

    A: I started in 1983 and worked there until 1998, but I took a few years away to be the pastry chef at Bruce Cost's Monsoon restaurant and to consult. I was there for a total of 13 years.


    Q: What's Alice Waters really like?

    A: Alice employed me for many years and as a cook, I could not ask for a better place to do that than Chez Panisse. Alice made sure the ingredients we used were the best available, and unlike many other well-known chef's today, she isn't interested in endorsing products or capitalizing on her name, except to promote sustainable agriculture and her various causes through the Chez Panisse Foundation.

    It's difficult running a restaurant and café with over a hundred employees, and I give Alice immense great credit for being able to keep up the restaurant's high standards and for putting her philosophy on the plate day-after-day. You can read more I wrote about Alice here.


    Living and Working in Paris

    Q: I want to move to Paris. Can you give me any advice?

    A: The process is complicated and time-consuming, much more so than you can possibly imagine. The first step is to visit the web site for the French Consulate which is nearest to you. Follow the instructions, but be prepared for things not to go quite as you might expect. It's a long process, but basically, the first step is applying in the United States if you're an American.

    You can find some information here (in French).

    Once that's approved, when you come to France, you have to re-apply using the same paperwork. Photocopy everything at least five times and always carry along everything you might need for all your appointments; photos, bank statements, lease, electricity and phone bills, proof of health insurance and finances, birth certificate, etc...all translated. I never hand over everything at once, but instead hand over each document as requested since they will invariably ask you for something you don't have. (And never, ever throw anything away, no matter how trivial you think it is. Someone is certain to ask you for it later.)

    You'll need to make an appointment at the Préfecture de Police after your arrival in Paris, which can take months, and will certainly be an eye-opening experience. Plan on things not going quite as anticipated, and remember there's a reason the French have so much red wine at their disposal.

    Once you get your Carte de Sejour you'll need to re-apply each year; the rules and qualifications changing each time depending on who's behind the counter when you show up. There are no exact answers and the process changes frequently. If I had more definite answers, I'd probably have a bit more hair instead of having pulled it all out.

    Recommended Reading:

  • Living, Studying, and Working in France by Reilly & Kalisky
  • French Or Foe by Polly Platt
  • Living and Working in France by David Hampshire

    For moving your goods overseas, Schumacher Cargo comes highly-recommended by Why Travel To France.


    Q: Where can I find a long-term apartment in Paris?

    A: There are lots of private agencies that will assist in your search, although I have no experience with them. To search for a long-term apartment in Paris yourself, you may wish to start at the following sites:

  • Craigslist Paris
  • PAP
  • FUSAC


    Q: I want to come to France and do a stage in a famous restaurant. What do I do? Can you help me?

    A: First off, high-end restaurants are tough places to work and if you do a stage (internship) in one, you're likely to be doing menial work no matter how skilled you are. Don't expect to be standing on the line with Alain Ducasse dishing up dinner.

    A knowledge of French is very helpful as is the ability to stand on your feet for 12-14 hours. Some places have become so popular they're now charging people for the 'experience' of training in their kitchen.

    I can't offer any assistance but you can find lots of advice here, on eGullet.


    Cooking Schools

    Q: I want to be a pastry chef. Should I go to culinary school?

    A: Read my post Should You Go To Cooking School?


    Q: Did you go to cooking school?

    A: I attended two cooking schools in Europe after I'd worked in restaurants for many years. One was Ecole Lenôtre near Paris, and the other was Callebaut Academy to study chocolate in Belgium.

    Both programs are intended for professionals and I highly-recommend them.

    For home cooks, you'll find a list of cooking classes in Paris here and a discussion of professional programs in Paris here.


    Products and Ads On The Site

    Q: I'm looking for a certain product that you mentioned on the site in America. How can I find out where to get it?

    A: When I mention a product, I try to put a link to where it can be obtained it in the states, since that's where a majority of my readers are, I presume. But you can also use Google to locate it, or Amazon, or ebay to find availability as well, which are the same search methods that I use.

    I list several companies that distribute European chocolate in America on my chocolate Links page.


    Q: Can our company send you a product to try and review on your site?

    A: In general, I only try products that are related to what I do, which share a similar philosophy to mine. (If you take a moment to read through various blog entries, you'll get some idea of that.) I love trying new things, especially from small companies with artisianal products, and I love trying new chocolates, but I never commit to writing about them. I appreciate your not insisting that I do.

    My philosophy, in general, is to only recommend products that I like and use personally. I don't often write negative reviews since I think most people are trying their best and it's hard to criticize them. (Although there are exceptions.) I'm not paid to recommend anything by anyone, so things I write about on the site and blog are products I know from my personal experience.

    Please note that I live in Paris, which is in France, which should be evident, but evidently isn't to some public relations firms out there.

    (Also, I don't respond to mass-mailings. If you'd like to get my attention, I do have a name, which is pretty easy to find by looking at the top of my web site.)

    I strongly urge marketers to read Elise Bauer's article, Do's and Don'ts of Marketing to Bloggers which gives guidance on how to pitch products to food bloggers.


    Q: Why are there ads on your site?

    A: Most of the ads are for my books, which I hope readers will buy (and use!); that's how I make a living. There are also Amazon ads for products, as well as GoogleAds, and Blogherads. All are clearly marked and I try to keep them as unobtrusive as possible. The modest amount of revenue from them pay for site hosting and storage fees, web design, and updates to the site.

    I also have an Amazon Store, filled with products that I use and recommend. Similarly, revenues from that are used for site upgrades and to offset costs.


    The Blog and Blogging

    Q: How come I can't leave a comment?

    A: Because of spam, I turn off the comment feature for older posts. Sorry.


    Q: I left a nasty comment and it was deleted. What the f$&%k!?

    A: I subscribe to the comment policy espoused here. And reserve the right to delete or edit comments. Please remember this isn't a democracy—it's my dictatorship!


    Q: What kind of camera and photo gear do you use?

    A: Check out my post: My Food Photography Gear.


    Q: Can I use one of the photos on your site or Flickr page on my site, or in our magazine?

    A: Because the blog is protected by a copyright, you shouldn't use anything from the blog without my permission. Same with images from my Flickr page. In general, I've often let others use an image provided they're not for commercial, profitable purposes, along with appropriate credit and a link. Please ask first.

    If I do give permission to use an image for a profit-making venture (magazine, newspaper, etc), I normally expect some kind of compensation and/or credit, although there are exceptions. In any event—please ask before using any pictures, images, or text from my blog or Flickr page.


    Q: Why are there typos in your blog entries? Can't you spell?

    A: I write for a living, and when I do an assignment or a book, for which I get paid, I have the luxury of taking the time to proof and re-check my copy before it's submitted for publication. The blog is intended to be light-hearted and a place for me to share my stories about life in Paris. Since I do this for fun, I can't give it the same attention that I do for my paid work.

    In addition, I use Movable Type, which means I have to code much of my words in HTML.
    So a simple, tiny 3-letter word like <été> looks similar to <[em]#eacute;t#eacute;[/em]> on my puny laptop screen. I do proof after I publish, but there's bound to be errors.

    Lighten up...it's a blog!

    If you're interested in error-free text, buy one of my books.


    Q: How do I get added to your links page?

    A: As you can see, there's lots of links already there. It started out mostly being friends, but it's blossomed into a long list of food blogs that I want to share as well.

    So if you're not on the links page, it doesn't mean I don't like you, nor does it mean I don't like your blog. There's plenty of blogs I read and enjoy, but I'm unable to add them all to the links.


    Q: I want to start a food blog, or make mine better. Can you give me any suggestions?

    A: A blog of any sort is a personal diary so what works for me may not work for you.
    A general rule would be to look closely at blogs you like and read regularly, see what they do, and figure out why you find them interesting. Is it the humor, the photos, the recipes, or the writer's voice? Take inspiration from others, but make it your own.

    A few things you may wish to concentrate on are: design of the site, good content, and expressing your voice.
    Still, I advise you not to take it too seriously. It's not a popularity contest and if it's not fun, don't do it.

    You can some helpful tips at these links:

  • Food Blog S'cool
  • ProBlogger.net
  • How To Start A Food Blog
  • Adam's Blogging Advice
  • delicious:days Foodblogging Do's and Don'ts
  • 9 Tips To Start Blogging Successfully
  • 26 Steps to 15,000 Visitors a Day


    Q: I want to write a cookbook. Can you help me?

    A: Sure...click here to read my tips.


    Q: How can I contact you?

    A: It's preferable to leave a comment rather than send me an email, since often the subject is of interest to others and I do respond to comments. If you'd like to email me for another reason, my address is in the left-hand sidebar.


    Q: I sent you an email and never got a response. What kind of jerk are you?

    A: For some reason, emails don't always reach me, and emails I send out don't always reach their destinations. I think this might have something to do with my using a foreign server and you may have a firewall is the only explanation I can think of. It's very frustrating.

    If you've contacted me and haven't heard back in a week or so, you may wish to try again.


    Q: I don't agree with something you wrote on your blog. What should I do about it?

    A: While I wish that everyone agreed with me all the time, unfortunately that doesn't always happen. These are just my opinions and ramblings and I welcome constructively-written, friendly counter-opinions in the comments area. I will delete any personal attacks or insane remarks...unless they're pretty funny.

    Remember, I'm just a cookie baker and what I say isn't worth getting anyone's knickers in a knot.


    Q: Can I stalk you?

    A: Not unless you're Toni Collette or Justin Timberlake.


    Web Design and Maintenance

    Q: What blogging platform do you use?

    A: I use Movable Type, which is more challenging than other platforms, but more versatile and can handle the heavy traffic the site frequently generates.


    Q: Who maintains your site?

    A: It's grown in blackdirt.


    blackdirtlogo.jpg

    Permalink

     

    Très Parisien
    line

    February 1, 2007 | Comments (12)

    Free Bikes In Paris

    Over 20,000 bicycles are on their way to Paris as part of the mayor's plan to make the residents of the city less-dependent on cars. (Many citizens of the city are absolutely irate about the new bike lanes.) The bikes will be free to use and can be picked up at one of 1451 stations, then dropped off at any one of them as well.

    The system is set to be in place early this summer, just in time for tourist season.

    Pack a helmet!


    Partial Smoking Ban Begins Today

    Today marks the beginning of the ban on smoking in public places in France. It's believed that 12 million people smoke in France, and nearly 66,000 smokers die each year due to smoking-related illnesses. 25-30% of all adults smoke in France (which is below the European average), and half of all young adults under 35 light up too.

    (Tip: If you're smoke-sensitive, don't sit next to a table of teenage girls. Trust me.)

    The air in 42% of all places that allowed smoking was considered "dangerous". Smoking is now prohibited in public buildings like hospitals, stores, offices, and schools, and there are stiff fines for smokers (68€) and business owners. The total ban on smoking in bars, caf&eagrave;s, and restaurants, will begin in 11 months, starting January 1, 2008, and the EU Health Commissioner has proposed a total ban in all 27 EU countries.

    Currently it's illegal to talk on a cell phone while driving, considered a public danger. But curiously, smoking indoors has been tolerated and vigorously defended. Today I expect to see a lot of people grousing in the street (les râleurs).


    And speaking of 'as seen on the streets of Paris'...


    C'est très Parisien?


    I'm heading out for a walk...it's gonna be fun out there today!



    Permalink

     

    « January 2007
    Main
    March 2007 »

  • David's Amazon Store

     

    David Lebovitz
    Photo courtesy of
    Christopher Hirsheimer

     

    BlogHer Ad Network
    More from BlogHer
    Advertise here
    BlogHer Privacy Policy

     

    The Great Book of Chocolate

     

     

      
    Subscribe to Receive Periodic Email Updates from David
    enter your email address
       subscribe
       unsubscribe