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« Tipping In France and Paris Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream Recipe April 9, 2007
When I was finalizing the recipes in The Perfect Scoop, I was conflicted about something sweet. Even more so than I usually am.
Then I got a desperate message from a clever kitten asking about Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream, asking if I had a recipe as good as the one at Berthillon in Paris. Before I go on, here's a tip from someone who's pretty in-the-know around these parts: True Caramel Ice Cream fans, like me, go for Berthillon's normal glace Caramel rather than their glace Caramel-Buerre-Salé, which to me has a slightly peculiar flavor. As someone who's spent more than his fair-share of time standing on the Pont Marie lapping up ice cream, I know. So here I'm presenting my very own recipe for Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream which I guarantee is better than anything you can get anywhere, including...gasp...the glace Caramel at the venerable Berthillon: It's so good, I can unconditionally make that claim. So there. And after the feedback I got from local friends who took a taste, they wholeheartedly agreed. Still not convinced? Then be prepared to miss out. Quelle Dommage. It's not difficult to make good caramel but the secret is to cook it far enough so it's very-slightly burnt; otherwise it just tastes like syrupy sugar. There's complete guidelines for caramelizing sugar in my book Room For Dessert and my post Making the Perfect Caramel. You want to take it to the edge of darkness, then stop it there with the addition of a few pads of salted butter. It'll melt into a buttery caramel that's so irresistible, you'll be tempted to stick your finger in for a taste. But I assure you—it'll be worth it.
I know I'm sounding like a broken record, but be sure to use good salt. I use fleur de sel, but if you don't have it, a mild-tasting sea salt will do in a pinch, such as Maldon, fine grey salt, or kosher salt. Don't use ordinary fine table salt; it's far too harsh. You may as well join your local deer at their salt-lick. I know you're thinking, "Is he ever gonna stop talking about using better salt?" Well, no, I'm not. Here it's important. And since I don't like to wash dishes, and I suspect my readers don't either (if you do, let me know...I could use some help around here), I hang on to the same pan after I've caramelized the praline to make the caramel custard in. Rather brilliant, no? And they said I'd never amount to anything...
½ cup (100 gr) sugar For the ice cream custard 2 cups (500 ml) whole milk, divided 1. To make the caramel praline, spread the ½ cup (100 gr) of sugar in an even layer in a medium-sized, unlined heavy duty saucepan: I use a 6 quart/liter pan. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or brush it sparingly with unflavored oil. 2. Heat the sugar over moderate heat until the edges begin to melt. Use a heatproof utensil to gently stir the liquefied sugar from the bottom and edges towards the center, stirring, until all the sugar is dissolved. (Or most of it—there may be some lumps, which will melt later.)
3. Without hesitation, sprinkle in the ¾ teaspoon salt without stirring (don't even pause to scratch your nose), then pour the caramel onto the prepared baking sheet and lift up the baking sheet immediately, tilting and swirling it almost vertically to encourage the caramel to form as thin a layer as possible. Set aside to harden and cool. 4. To make the ice cream, make an ice bath by filling a large bowl about a third full with ice cubes and adding a cup or so of water so they're floating. Nest a smaller metal bowl (at least 2 quarts/liters) over the ice, pour 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk into the inner bowl, and rest a mesh strainer on top of it. 5. Spread 1½ cups (300 gr) sugar in the saucepan in an even layer. Cook over moderate heat, until caramelized, using the same method described in Step #2. 6. Once caramelized, remove from heat and stir in the butter and salt, until butter is melted, then gradually whisk in the cream, stirring as you go.
7. Whisk the yolks in a small bowl and gradually pour some of the warm caramel mixture over the yolks, stirring constantly. Scrape the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and cook the custard using a heatproof utensil, stirring constantly (scraping the bottom as you stir) until the mixture thickens. If using an instant-read thermometer, it should read 160-170 F (71-77 C). 8. Pour the custard through the strainer into the milk set over the ice bath, add the vanilla, then stir frequently until the mixture is cooled down. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or until thoroughly chilled. 9. Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. 10. While the ice cream is churning, crumble the hardened caramel praline into very little bits, about the size of very large confetti (about ½-inch, or 1 cm). I use a mortar and pestle, although you can make your own kind of music using your hands or a rolling pin. 11. Once your caramel ice cream is churned, quickly stir in the crushed caramel, then chill in the freezer until firm. Note: As the ice cream sits, the little bits of caramel may liquefy and get runny and gooey, which is what they're intended to do.
Other options might be some of the mix-ins in The Perfect Scoop, like gooey Dark Chocolate Truffles, crackly chocolate Straciatella, or Oatmeal Praline folded in at the last minute. This is also excellent served with warm Mocha Sauce (page 166), although it's also excellent melting over sautéed apples or alongside a wedge of apple pie or tarte Tatin for a caramel double-whammy.
Comments Oh David, I'm swooning. I'd do your dishes anytime. Merci mille fois. Posted by Mary at April 9, 2007 6:44 AM Ok, I'm so going to get an ice-cream attachment to my KitchenAid next week in London. Also - thanks for the in-the-know tip about which Berthillon caramel ice cream to choose. Will keep that in mind. Posted by Pille at April 9, 2007 7:06 AM Pille: Just make sure that if you have a European-model KitchenAid that you get the ice cream attachment specifically for European models. (Same applies to attachments for American models.) Due to EU-safety regulations, the mixers have slight differences, so be sure to get the proper model for your mixer...Enjoy it when you do! Posted by David at April 9, 2007 7:17 AM Hi David, Love Posted by fanny at April 9, 2007 7:55 AM Dave, thanks for the recipe. From the picture, it appears you're using fine sea salt. Have you tried large-crystalled sea salt? I'm assuming the purpose is to thoroughtly dissolve the salt, so fine would probably be better. I do enjoy the crunch of salt in my ice cream however - do you think I could put in less of the fine up front and add the remaining amount in large-crystals just before freezing? Great work, always enjoy reading about your confectionary adventures. Posted by ulterior epicure at April 9, 2007 8:30 AM David, you make my dreams [of ice cream] come true. Thank you for posting this recipe! It is the next ice cream I will make, honest. Posted by Danielle at April 9, 2007 8:36 AM Mmmmmmmmmmmm...... Posted by Barbara at April 9, 2007 9:01 AM I am currently experiencing abject despair over the fact that I do not own an ice cream machine, and have no space to buy one anytime soon. I don't know how to get over my despair especially when confronted with your recipe and those photos (those photos!) Maybe Deb will read your post, my comment, and then share her batch with me??? If she doesn't, I don't know what I'll do. Sob! Posted by Luisa at April 9, 2007 10:52 AM I just spent a weekend at my mother's where we went on an ice cream-making rampage. We made six flavors from The Perfect Scoop and every one was amazing! I can't wait to make this one. Caramel, Salt, butter, ice cream...what could be better. Posted by Gourmet Peasant at April 9, 2007 11:16 AM Whoever it was that said you'd never amount to anything were wrong, oh so wrong! This looks absolutely heavenly. I'd happily do your dishes if I weren't on a different continent. Posted by Lynn at April 9, 2007 11:30 AM Be still my salty and ever-so-slightly burnt heart! David L., you complete me. Why do I get the feeling I'll be bumping off some boring pre-vacation errands this week just to try this? And Luisa, you may of course come over. In fact, you must: my bathing suit season begins in but six days and I need to offset the damage. Posted by deb at April 9, 2007 11:33 AM Can't wait to try this one and the pear caramel. Thanks for sharing. Willing to share any more that didn't fit in the book? Perhaps there will be a volume two? Posted by Lauren at April 9, 2007 11:42 AM What a mensch you are. You put together an entire book of brilliant recipes, and then you throw this on one for free? Wow. We'll be eating this tomorrow. No question. And by the way, I'm happy to listen to you talk about salt, every day. Posted by shauna at April 9, 2007 11:49 AM You devil, you. Thanks to you I was eating ice cream all weekend, and now I have to run right home and make this one. I'll send you the bill when I have to buy a whole new (plus-size) wardrobe. Posted by Melissa at April 9, 2007 12:18 PM You had me at Pear Caramel Ice Cream! There may soon be some beached whale sightings in Greece. *sigh* Posted by kevin at April 9, 2007 12:51 PM Lovely thank you Posted by Connie at April 9, 2007 1:24 PM A friend and I have spent the last 2-3 days looking for this recipe. When she told me your book was out/coming out, we even did a search of the contents on Amazon to see if, by chance, you had included just such a recipe. We found the topping but no ice cream. Yahoo. I've ordered the book and the salt...Thanks! Posted by Katrina at April 9, 2007 1:36 PM And where did you say you lived in Paris? Posted by Mimi at April 9, 2007 2:21 PM Is there some sort of prize for the blog with the most Jerry Maguire-inspired comments and/or quotes? I think anyone who slips one in should get a free quart of this divine creation made by the man himself. Unfortunately, the only other quote I can remember that is not either "You complete me." or "You had me at ...." is something about "Never stop ........... me!" and not at all appropriate for this topic! Never stop lecturing me about salt (as long as caramel is involved)? Does that work? Posted by Christy at April 9, 2007 2:33 PM Trust me when I say this. David's version is even Better. Than. Berthillon's (although I've only sampled Berthillon's caramel au beurre sale, not the caramel). I had the good fortune of sampling David's version a few days ago. The addition of praline takes it over the top. Simply genius. I did have to wash a boatload of dishes, though, for the privilege of tasting it. But I was responsible for the mess, not David, so I can't blame him. David's ice cream (nearly) even made up for the horse milk that he made me drink earlier, but that's another story. Posted by Brett at April 9, 2007 3:03 PM One thought. Tell me you didn't use Jean-Yves Bordier's salted butter to make that ice cream. Posted by Brett at April 9, 2007 3:09 PM Ulterior Epicure: That's sugar in the picture, my friend. If that was salt, I'd be thirsty for weeks on end. I like fleur de sel since its crystals are between fine and coarse salt. If you don't have it, kosher salt or fine grey sea salt are good substitutes. Brett: Horse milk? Eww..that sounds gross. Kevin: If you're oversized but wearing an undersized thong, I think you'll fit right in on the Greek beach. Mimi: Bring rubber gloves and a scrubby! Katrina: Enjoy the rest of the recipes in the book! I'm going to post links to other blogs that've been making recipes soon. So anyone else who's been churning up ice cream from The Perfect Scoop, please send the URL to me as I'd love to include it. And Deb & Luisa: No need to get into a cat-fight (although I'm sure those pics would do well passed around the 'net.) I've got two batches in the freezer. One's for the fish-boys, but that leaves one liter left... Posted by David at April 9, 2007 4:06 PM Wow, that looks delicious, I can feel it melting in my mouth. I love your dilemma with too many recipes. :) Posted by Monika Korngut at April 9, 2007 5:14 PM Oh my! All this time I've spent thinking about salted butter caramel ice cream (Berthillon and Damien's), and I never thought to ask someone for a recipe. Thanks to Deb, and to you, this is moving to the top of my must-make list! Posted by Mercedes at April 9, 2007 7:43 PM David, I picked up the book today! I have only just begun reading it and it's so very impressive: instruction AND photography. Simply superb. Posted by Lu at April 9, 2007 7:50 PM I love caramel to distraction. And I 'specially love that fleur de sel caramel that I can find every so often and which costs an arm and a leg (and is worth it!), so I can see I'm going to have to make this one. And then I see that I'm going to have to make it yet again, but with goat milk products -- for comparative research purposes, of course! -- as soon as the goat farm people have their stall up in the farmers' market near my job. Posted by Jen at April 9, 2007 8:03 PM I knew it! I thought Berthillon's salted caramel ice cream tasted too...salty. (But in Room for Dessert, didn't you say that the salted caramel is their best flavor? I'm so confused now.) I've been clipping a million ice cream recipes. This will be the year that I finally get an ice cream maker. Posted by Jessica "Su Good Eats" at April 9, 2007 9:45 PM Ymmmm! I just love carmel with salt! It just brings out the flavor. I am a gelato addict, but I would certainly give this a try! And maybe a taste test is in order. I'll have to make yours...and try it at Bertillon the next time I am there! Posted by mymelange at April 9, 2007 11:18 PM I recently made some salted butter chocolate caramels and after this post, they definitely should have become ice cream. Posted by Brilynn at April 9, 2007 11:22 PM Isn't it great when we can say for certain tat our ----- is better than so & so's? I made a rosemary caramel ice cream at Aziza a few years ago and no matter how much I made it sold out every night! Caramel is a sexy ingredient indeed. and salt? I could talk or listen for hours. any day. Posted by shuna fish lydon at April 10, 2007 12:52 AM I am definitely making this I love caramel and salt. I hope my little Donvier Sorbitiere is fine..my son will love cranking the handle. This would be so good with toasted pecans. Posted by Tai - Tai at April 10, 2007 3:16 AM Yummy Oh oh David I believe you, I'm fully convinced but infortunately I don't have ice maker. Jane (Paris Batignolles) Posted by Jane at April 10, 2007 9:10 AM so I think we need the perfect scoop blog day.. where everyone makes their favorite recipe and blogs the foto's! I am buying a machine.. even though Posted by Diva at April 10, 2007 11:14 AM This sounds utterly amazing - time to break out the ice cream maker again! Posted by gilly at April 10, 2007 12:50 PM Oh my... I love good chocolate, but I absolutely adore all things caramel. It's my guilty pleasure, and you've sorely tempted me with this recipe! Gonna have to try it soon. Posted by Andrea at April 10, 2007 1:58 PM Oh Yummy, I'm adding this to my list of ice cream to make from your book which I love. I was wondering why this recipe wasn't included and now I have it...YEAH!! I emailed you after I got your book and you were kind enough to answer me. Made my day. Thank you David. If you ever want to visit and made me dessert, just let me know you are always welcome.. Posted by Judy at April 10, 2007 5:22 PM thank you, david. you know what i am going to do? i am going to try your recipe with goat's milk! Posted by faustianbargain at April 10, 2007 6:17 PM My batch of this ice cream just came out of the ice cream maker. Oh my goodness... it is divine! It made 2 pints plus just enough left over to immediately reward myself for a job well done. I just received the book in the mail yesterday. Given how well this recipe that *didn't* make the cut tastes, I can't wait to make more from the book. But where do I start? Thanks David! Posted by Lisa T. at April 10, 2007 7:04 PM Dave, yes, thanks, I went back and re-read your recipe in more detail. LOL! I was truly confused there for a while - I thought it was a miracle you could get anything to freeze with that much salt! I do love salted caramel, especially with fleur de sel, which I do always keep on hand. Thanks, sorry about the confusion. *sheepish* Posted by ulterior epicure at April 10, 2007 8:33 PM Dang, David. If you weren't already engaged to at least three women I'd be begging to marry you myself. Better than Berthillon? My gosh. Can't write more--Must make ice cream--Now. Posted by Tea at April 10, 2007 10:44 PM I just consumed more than I should have, but much less than I wanted to, of Lisa T.'s batch of the Salted Butter Caramel ice cream AND the Orange Popsicle ice cream from your book---all I kept saying in between spoonfuls was OMG. It's a good thing time is short before we arrive next month, or I'd be charged extra baggage for myself at this rate. Posted by Lynn T at April 11, 2007 4:02 AM Every trip to Paris requires at least one obligatory Berthillon glace Caramel and it is justifiably divine. I intended to go back again and get the full Monty - their Tart Tatin a la mode with Caramel glace that you reccommended, but they close on Sunday/Mondays.. Posted by ParisBreakfasts at April 11, 2007 5:25 AM Here is how to make ice cream without an ice cream maker: DIY Ice Cream Maker Posted by scotchgrrl at April 13, 2007 5:17 PM I made this last night and it's fantastic! David- I have the same ice cream maker as you. I've been finding that even when the machine stops, the consistency is still pretty soft. The ice cream has been in the freezer for 8 hours or so now and it has reached a more gelato-like consistency (but it's still pretty soft to scoop.) Is this what's supposed to happen? Posted by Lisa at April 17, 2007 8:40 AM Hi Lisa: Most ice creams that I've frozen in that machine are someone like soft-serve when they're ready to come out (yum!). This ice cream, which has a higher amount of sugar in it, will not freeze as hard as others even after spending time in the freezer. Most folks like that consistency. If it's a problem, you can substitute some skim milk for the whole milk. For more detailed info, in The Perfect Scoop, I go in-depth a bit about the role of fat & sugar in ice cream. Posted by David at April 17, 2007 10:56 AM Thank you! I am next in line for the book at my local library (though I will probably buy it soon! I usually try out books from the library first just to make sure i'll use them.) I like the texture a lot- much nicer than too hard ice cream. All of the crunchy caramel bits dissolved too; i'm not sure if that was supposed to happen, but it gave the whole thing a caramel ripple sort of effect... Posted by Lisa at April 17, 2007 11:15 PM David, inspired by your post and the beautiful wheather I walked to Ile St. Louis today with the plan to enjoy a caramel ice cream at Berthillon. BTW, is Berthillon about to buy the Ile St. Louis ? I remembered only one shop there, but today every second shop was a Berthillon "point of sale", at least in the afternoon, amazing. The other thing I noticed, at none of those shops it was possible to buy just "caramel", but they had everywhere handwritten flavor sign, supposedly covering the old "caramel", with "caramel au beurre salé". I liked it but I wouldn't necessarily kill for it. I do love the "caramel beurre sale" ice cream from Picard though. Please don't shout, I know, I know, it's industrial, but it tastes very good ;) Cheers, Ulla Posted by Ulla at April 19, 2007 2:00 PM Hi Ulla: Most of those shops on the Ile St. Louis sell Berthillon ice cream, but only one is the real Berthillon. (Since they're closed so much, I think they realized it would be a smart decision to start letting others carry it.) I don't like their Caramel-Buerre-Salé ice cream. It tastes funny to me. But their normal Caramel is out-of-this-world. Except now that I've come up with this recipe, which I think is better : ), I can have it whenever, and wherever I want! Posted by David at April 19, 2007 3:04 PM Wow. Just wow. After the week I've had, this is going to be the perfect Friday afternoon project. Salted caramels are my favorite candies, and I cannot wait to try this. Love your site! Posted by French Laundry at Home at April 19, 2007 7:44 PM My son said this was the best homemade ice-cream ever. However, one problem - it was great for the first couple of days, but because it does not freeze solid, slowly the caramel bits liquefy releasing the salt into the rest of the caramel ice-cream. Any remedies for that (except for eating it all up on the first day ?!). Thanks ! Love the site. Posted by lionnewbie at April 24, 2007 11:35 AM The pieces of caramel do soften and get gooey. That's the beauty of them! Perhaps I'll add that to the recipe. Glad you like it. Posted by David at April 24, 2007 11:40 AM Wow. Now you've gone and done it. You've drawn me out. I lurk no longer. And um, wow. This recipe is inspired. Did I mention wow? Because, seriously, wow. This is creamy, salty, buttery, caramel perfection. I know caramel isn't hard to make... at least, it's not supposed to be. Nonetheless, I fail more times than I like to admit. I'm competent in the kitchen - I've even baked a wedding cake - but caramel was my downfall. Always it would seize when I added the dairy, seize to the degree that no amount of low heat stirring would dissolve. So it was with some trepidation that I embarked on this recipe. It was perfect. The sugar dissolved evenly, the praline the ideal warm-up. Round two with the butter and the cream... and success! Sweet, salty, caramelly success. Thank you! If you can get me through caramel, I think you can probably do anything... Posted by Vermonstrous at April 30, 2007 10:47 AM Wow David - we went on one of your market tours in Paris (I brought you goodies from Trader Joe's) and after exploring with you that fun day (La Reine plums ... swoon) and then visiting one of your restaurant recommendations (Biche au Bois), I knew I could trust you always, no matter what. This ice cream is fantastic - the depth of the caramel flavor and the richness, oh la la ... This will become a regular feature on my dessert repetoire. Posted by Sunday Cook at April 30, 2007 9:08 PM David, just an FYI, someone started a topic about your book on Egullet. Posted by Randi at May 8, 2007 1:48 PM |
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