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« But I Do Have Tomatoes August 7, 2007
Whenever an American friend in Paris has a birthday, I invariably offer to make the cake for the big fête. Not that there's a lack of great bakeries in Paris, but Americans always seem to crave the same thing: a big, tall, all-American chocolate cake with an overabundance of swirls and swoops of chocolate frosting. And who am I to deny them?
This Devil's Food Cake is a happy compromise between those richer, flourless kind of chocolate cakes which would be too intense and inelegant stacked one on top of the other, and those jumbo, three-tiered extravaganzas which might shock a few folks around here with its all-American excess. (Although the Rice Krispy Treats I made a couple of weeks ago were quite a hit. I tried to explain their cultural appeal to my Parisian friends, but decided just to them do the ambassador work themselves. I'm willing to let someone else carry the cross-cultural mantle around here for a while.) This one has the heft and smoothness of a larger cake without scaring anyone anyway, and will appease everyone with it's on-the-spot dark chocolate flavor. It's delicate crumb is perfect when paired with a scoop of homemade ice cream or a pour of super-cold crème anglaise, but it's also sturdy enough to weather a trip across the Paris, since if you remember, I don't have very good luck carrying cakes on the métro amongst devil-may-care Parisians. So if you see me on the métro schlepping a birthday cake, please take pity on me and "Bougez votre cul, svp!" I used a bar of Scharffen Berger bittersweet chocolate that a guest brought for me which I was saving for something special, and I like convincing disbelieving Europeans that fine American chocolate does exist. But for the cake itself, I stuck with the home team and used cocoa powder from my former nemesis. For you non-Americans out there, sorry, but the recipe isn't in metrics since while making this cake, I found the one glaring flaw with the metric system: What to do when your scale goes haywire?
Lastly, don't be discouraged if you're not a pro at decorating cakes. I was visiting Gayle's Bakery, a terrific bakery in Capitola, south of San Francisco, where they brought me into a room that was magnificently-equipped—and was off-limits to everyone but their highly-revered cake decorators. They told me, "We treat our decorators very nicely." If you're not a pro, don't worry: this frosting is forgivable and can take quite a bit of back-and-forthing from a spatula-wielding novice. And if you want to get fancy, you can pipe it as well...and you don't even need a special room to do it in.
For the ganache frosting: 1. Adjust the oven rack to the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 2. Butter two 9" x 2" cake pans and line the bottoms with circles of parchment paper. 3. To make the cake layers, sift together the cocoa powder, cake flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder in a bowl. 4. In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, or by hand, beat together the butter and sugar about 5 minutes until smooth and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time until fully incorporated. (If using a standing electric mixer, stop the mixer as necessary to scrape down the sides to be sure everything is getting mixed in.) 5. Mix together the coffee and milk. Stir half of the dry ingredients into the butter mixture, the add the coffee and milk. Finally stir in the other half of the dry ingredients. 6. Divide the batter into the two prepared cake pans and bake for 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool completely before frosting. 7. To make the frosting, melt the chopped chocolate with the water in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until melted. Remove the bowl from the pan of water. 8. Cut the butter into small pieces and whisk them into the chocolate until completely melted and the ganache is smooth. Cool until spreadable, which may take about 1 hour at room temperature. To frost the cake: Storage: Cake is best the day it is made, although it's fine the next day. Store at room temperature under a cake dome. Just be sure to keep cake out of the sun in the meantime. Comments Funny, today is my birthday, and I just pulled a Devils Food Cake out of the oven, that my husband made for me this morning! We used cocoa powder from Joel Durand in Saint Remy de Provence (www.chocolat-durand.com), don't know if it's Dutch-process or not. Can't wait to take a break from this big day of bottling our wine to have a slice at lunch time! It will be interesting to see what our French friends think of this oh so American indulgence! Posted by lagramiere at August 7, 2007 3:22 AM lagramiere: I think all cocoa powder in Europe is Dutch-processed. I've never seen any that wasn't. (You can check; sometimes the ingredients will list an alkalizing agent to neutralize acidity, but not always.) You're lucky to live near Joël Durand—his chocolates are great. (You can now get them in Paris at La Grande Épicerie.) Posted by David at August 7, 2007 3:36 AM David! Posted by kate at August 7, 2007 4:27 AM What a wonderful cake ! Posted by Burcin at August 7, 2007 5:42 AM How sad that my birthday is six months away! Can this double as a cake for la rentrée? Or for August 7, perhaps? Posted by Meg at August 7, 2007 5:51 AM Looks delicious. I'm always in search of good chocolate cake recipes, they are not always easy to find. I recently made your black bottomed cupcakes and they were a great success. Have you ever tried making them into a cake? Now I just need to find a big group of people to eat a Devil's Food Cake, or else I'm in danger of eating the whole thing. Posted by Joanna at August 7, 2007 8:34 AM David, Posted by Holly at August 7, 2007 10:17 AM David, Posted by Amy at August 7, 2007 11:20 AM I normally hate cakes like this-- I'm not a fan of frosting, and I like my cake to be dense and moist and not sugary. But for some reason yours looks appealing and I must say I could go for a slice right now. Posted by Caroline in DC at August 7, 2007 11:35 AM The chocolate ganache frosting on that cake makes me want a piece so badly! I usually don't like devil's food, but I don't think I've tasted it done right. I should try this out! Oh, and I second Meg, my birthday was just over a month ago, so Happy August 7th! :) Posted by Hillary at August 7, 2007 11:38 AM Kate: I forgot where I get them, but it was definitely in France. They're the same Rice Krispie's we know and love, except the Marshmallow Treat wasn't on the side of the box! Caroline: With my failing eyesight, I thought you said this cake looks "appalling", and my feelings were hurt. This cake isn't sweet or sugary, since it was intended for my French friends. If they loved it, you might too! Meg: I think in terms of birthday cakes, half-years count as well. (My birthday falls right after Christmas...so I'd love to have a party, and a cake, around...say....June.) Sorry Hillary, I don't know if that applies to month-ago birthdays... Amy: I don't think they have self-rising flour in France. If they do, it's most likely a British import since it's used primarily for scones and biscuits, which ain't exactly French. ; ) Posted by David at August 7, 2007 1:41 PM Hi David, I need to ask you a question unrelated to your post here. Since you're a food expert, I know you'd give me a good advice or at least would point me to a right direction. I'd like to learn how to cook (I have good sense of tastes, am organized, cook with intuitions and whatever resources/ingredients available at home). I use rarely recipes...I like simple good meals. I started searching for cooking schools for gourmandes around where I live, Antibes, South of France. I've been once to Alain Llorca resto "Moulin de Mougins" to watch a cooking demo that lasts for 2hrs, but there's no hands-on experience. It's like that for all the other menu-related cooking demos they have. I like the hands-on. Then I checked there's Lenotre in Cannes, but so far there are no classes available in Fall and Winter...at least not posted yet this month. I don't know where to go...don't know any other names...All cooking schools are in Paris, it seems like. I'm at a lost...where can I go? Could you give me a suggestion? Thanks David :-) Ok...let me stop here and not take more of your time now. Good luck and Bravo for your new book. Thanks again. Posted by Maya at August 7, 2007 1:45 PM Speaking of cakes, ever since I've been making ice cream from your cookbook, I've really wanted to make an ice cream cake, but I can't figure out how to make cake layers for it that won't freeze solid. I know that a lot of ice cream cakes just don't use any cake layers, but I think the ones that have cake too are better. Any suggestions? Posted by Dana at August 7, 2007 1:47 PM ummm, where do you get rice crispies??? Posted by Lola at August 7, 2007 4:09 PM ok, lesson learned: i need to read the posts BEFORE I post. Posted by Lola at August 7, 2007 4:15 PM The photos and your description really got me. I read the recipe and had no choice but to make it after I realized I had all the ingredients on hand. I just pulled the cake out of the oven and am starting on the frosting. Then I get the phone call that we're having a surprise house guest in a couple hours - he's from France and loves chocolate. You saved the day.....Thanks! Posted by Mary at August 7, 2007 5:46 PM My birthday is on the 19th, and the beau was wondering what kind of cake I wanted. Now he knows. I think I'll make this cake my standard thing to take to a dinner party in the fall when I'm asked to bring dessert. Thanks for the recipe! Posted by French Laundry at Home at August 7, 2007 6:28 PM I first discovered ganache while working at an organic bakery at a yoga institute in upstate new york. i haven't looked back since. Its time to get me a sifter, and a big ol bowl a milk! I'm ready to bake myself a cake. Posted by B at August 7, 2007 7:41 PM How much hot weather minus direct sunlight can the ganache take? Every year the local fair holds a cake auction and I always make a cake for it. It's next week and we are in the midst of an unrelenting heatwave. Can your frosting take a few hours at 85 degrees, or should I just settle for making a German Chocolate cake with its non-perishable frosting? Posted by Linda H at August 7, 2007 9:07 PM That cake is heavenly! It is next on my list of baking indulgences. Now I just have to get my husband to make the vanilla ice cream! Posted by Crisanne at August 7, 2007 9:57 PM Dana: You can help keep the layers from freezing-rock solid by brushing them on both sides with a compatible liquor (Cognac, brandy, rum, etc...) preferably 40 proof, since alcohol doesn't freeze. If you avoid alcohol, heat about 1 part sugar or honey to 2 to 3 parts water until sugar dissolves. (Try to use the minimum amount of water, to taste, since the more sugar, the better to keep the cake soft.) Cool, then brush generously on both sides of cake layers.
Although you're not a fan of cooking with recipes, I found I learned a lot reading books with basic, but helpful information. (I love reading cookbooks!) And try cooking something new one in a while, which is a great way to learn something or a new technique. Some favorite cookbooks are Mastering The Art of French Cooking, The Zuni Cookbook (not basic, but the recipes are pretty easy and her explanations of techniques are unbeatable), and The French Farmhouse Cookbook, which I refer to around here a lot but is very useful no matter where one lives. Lastly, if you live in France, you'll find the butchers, fromagers, and other people who sell food very helpful with advice and tips on cooking. Vendors are good about doling out advice...after all, they're the experts! Posted by David at August 8, 2007 4:37 AM Thanks David! :-) I'll look into those books you recommend, and you're right about taking advantage of good quality produce we have here all over France. I should be talking more with those experts in the market...(It's just unfortunate that the Antibes' Marche Provencal is so much geared towards tourists than locals...very few of the products are locals actually). Bof...Anyways, any plans to go this way...Cote d'Azur? :-) Let me know...Thanks again, David. Ciao. Posted by Maya at August 8, 2007 5:59 AM Slurp, slurp (the sound of me licking the icing off my screen). Great photos, David! Posted by Rosa at August 8, 2007 8:05 AM Oh well on the birthday thing, thought it was worth a try :) Posted by Hillary at August 8, 2007 11:30 AM Speaking of ganache... Have you ever soaked fruit in alcohol and then glazed with ganache? I was thinking about trying it with pineapple and cointreau. I'm hesitant the alcohol will get to the chocolate before I do. And yes I confer, that cake looks finger licking good. Posted by joyofcooking at August 8, 2007 1:14 PM What a beautiful cake! And thank you for sharing the recipe. Posted by Heather at August 8, 2007 1:44 PM "Swoops and swirls" is just what I needed to get my mouth watering for a good chocolate cake...Going to a cookout this weekend, just might make this cake! merci! Posted by Lesley at August 8, 2007 2:24 PM I made this into cupcakes tonight for a friend's birthday and they are so fabulous. I used Scharffen Berger cocoa powder for the cake and the chocolate flavor is spot on. I had to add my thanks for the recipe. Posted by Janet at August 10, 2007 1:45 AM OMG, if that's not food porn, I don't know what is. And at the risk of fostering cultural misunderstanding, I have to say that I simply don't get Rice Krispie squares. American friends over here used to bring them to every BBQ we invited them to and I remain mystified... Posted by Jeanne at August 10, 2007 7:13 AM It looks very very good in spite of being chocolate. Birthday cake was the first thing I missed after being here for a few months. The whole subject was redolent of my culture being ripped out of me, but I hadn't even brought cake tins with me. Upon confessing in public, an American friend sent me two tins. I proceeded to make America in Umbria. For me they aren't so much for birthdays, but I was once instructed by an American girl that if one were depressed, birthday cake and champagne would fix it. It seemed to work. You don't need any embarrassing candles, you can scoop off any flowers for yourself, and you can eat the various parts together or in any order. Try that with an anti-depressive pill. So this cake seems more like a celebration cake of perhaps finding a congenial honey, or the exact hat you want, or even drowning out the loss of either. Posted by Judith in Umbria at August 11, 2007 3:01 AM Is that what is refered to as a butter ganache? I've never made one, I've only used heavy cream. How do they differ in taste? Posted by Randi at August 11, 2007 9:50 AM hi David, Posted by zonder at August 15, 2007 8:32 AM I am looking for a chocolate cake for two tiered wedding cake for 30 person. I'm living in Belgium and do you think this Devil Food cake recipe will suit there taste? they love something like flourless choco cakes or any suggestions for the European taste? The wedding will be on September 15. Thanks. Posted by Cora at August 15, 2007 3:11 PM I am looking for a chocolate cake for two tiered wedding cake for 30 person. I'm living in Belgium and do you think this Devil Food cake recipe will suit there taste? they love something like flourless choco cakes or any suggestions for the European taste? The wedding will be on September 15. Thanks. Posted by Cora at August 15, 2007 3:12 PM Hi David, Posted by Lesley at August 20, 2007 3:53 PM Hi Lesley: You could make the icing with heavy cream instead of water, which would make it creamier. But since I like to pile it on, I opted for water. Posted by David at August 22, 2007 3:24 AM Ah, good idea. Thank you for the tip! I enjoyed it again last night with my girlfriends and they DEVOURED it...I gave them all your Web site address! Posted by Lesley at August 22, 2007 6:05 PM
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