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« Romantic Restaurants in Paris A Butterscotch Pudding Recipe, Without Losers February 27, 2008
 I recently got hooked on Le Grand Perdant 2. Unlike French cinema, which has a way of importing the best of America, French television has a way of importing the worst of America. Which often means reality shows. I have little patience for watching women named Bambi and Jennie compete for husbands named Tristan and Chad, but at least this one has a positive spin. Even people voted off have achieved a personal goal of fitness and weight loss. So The Biggest Loser 2 isn't necessarily The Biggest Winner. Call me sappy, but it's nice to see a program where competitors support each other to achieve their goals. I guess I've been away from the states for too long...I know, I know...pas américain! Hence, every Monday night for the past few weeks, I've tucked myself into bed and watched 3 episodes of The Biggest Loser 2 back-to-back. In France, that's not that much time since there's usually only one commercial break in a program. So a one-hour American tv show lasts about 19 minutes. The finale is next Monday and I can't wait. But the contestant that got the boot last night cheated and ate 9 brownies. 9 brownies! She got busted by the hidden camera which, thank goodness, I don't have one around here. Unless there's something you guys aren't telling me... Speaking of big losers, boy, do I feel like a loser for not giving you a recipe for Black & White Cookies. So that there are no losers anymore (...if only that were true....) I made a deal with Deb—if I provide a Butterscotch Pudding recipe for her, she'd provide one for Black & White Cookies. Because I'm a person of the highest moral character, and not a loser, I'm keeping my end of the deal here with my fantastically-creamy, hyper-delicieux Butterscotch Pudding. It's a recipe which I've updated from my second book, Ripe For Dessert, which is going out of print and just a few soon-to-be-rare copies remain. So if you want one, now's the time to grab it. For the absolute best flavor, I like to use cassonade, a natural brown sugar which is easily available in France. Because it's more acidic than ordinary brown sugar, the warm pudding may get slightly curdled after it's cooked. If so, simply whiz it until smooth in a food processor or blender, noting that if you use a blender, do it in two batches and secure the lid since hot liquids can be dangerous if the blender container is more than half-full. You might want to drape a kitchen towel over the lid as well, just to be sure.  You'll also notice I add a splash of whiskey. One theory is that the name 'butterscotch' is a derivation of 'butter-scorched'. Others say it that it meant 'scotching' or cutting, which they did to slabs of buttery, creamy caramels when making candy. Although the name implies it, it doesn't have to have scotch or whiskey in it, but I find the flavors marry so well that I can't resist adding a little shot. I once worked with some Mexican cooks who were stunned to see me adding vanilla to their beloved flan. I had no idea I was committing heresy against an entire nation. (Which wouldn't be the first time...) But as I like to say, that's one of the beauty of being an adult: you can make those decisions for yourself. But one decision I refuse to let you make is to be one of those people that wants to press plastic wrap on top of the puddings to avoid that delicious, chewy skin that forms on top. If you don't like pudding skin, why are you eating pudding in the first place? That's the best part and you don't want to be in the category of a big loser. Now, do you?
Adapted from Ripe For Dessert (HarperCollins)
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch with about 1/4 cup (60ml) of the milk until smooth (there should be no visible pills of cornstarch), then whisk in the eggs. 3. Gradually pour the remaining milk into the melted brown sugar, whisking constantly, then whisk in the cornstarch mixture as well. 4. Return the pan to the heat and bring the mixture to a boil, whisking frequently. Once it begins to bubble, reduce the heat to a low simmer and continue to cook for one minute, whisking non-stop, until the pudding thickens to the consistency of hot fudge sauce. 5. Remove from heat and stir in the whiskey and vanilla. If slightly-curdled looking, blend as indicated above. 6. Pour into 4-6 serving glasses or custard cups and chill thoroughly, at least four hours, before serving.
Comments Oh David....First Molly and now you with the butterscotch. Mmmm! I bet the pudding would taste amazing with a splash of some walnutty tasting sherry too! (I'm addicted to the Lustau Solera Reserve Amontillado Dry - so much black walnutty goodness). I must try this soon! Posted by Yooli at February 27, 2008 4:47 AM You got some nerve ;) ...a show about losing weight and then a recipe for pudding.......I'm torn.....think about eating healthy or slather butterscotch pudding all over my....tastebuds..? I'm still recovering from the salted butter caramel ice cream...I dream of it, it dreams of me...we want to be together but portion control is thrown out the window when it and I were in the same state together...which was bliss but still...ok, twist my arm, I'll make the dang pudding just not right away....I promised salted butter caramel ice cream I'd make it again next when I made a sweet treat. Posted by TACE at February 27, 2008 5:14 AM This would go perfectly with my weekly back to back episode of Twin Peaks, David, thank you! Posted by Lucy Vanel at February 27, 2008 5:25 AM haha i've that same quirk about skins on puddings and custards... i don't mind them... heck, i love them! besides, why waste plastic... we should be lessening our carbon footprint... Posted by kayenne at February 27, 2008 6:19 AM Hey, Butterscotch is definitely in the air this spring! I recently posted a blog entry with my slackers version of butterscotch pudding that can be made in the microwave. Check it out sometime when a craving hits but you can't face washing a saucepan. Posted by dana at February 27, 2008 6:58 AM mmm, this looks incredible... but i have one question, if i make this, it'll have to be with 2% milk, because my bf is lactose intolerant and they now have real milk in the states that is lactose-free (and it's organic - woot!) but unfortunately, they only provide it in low-fat, 2% kind... what do you think? will it work? Posted by radish at February 27, 2008 8:05 AM now i'm gonna have to make some. it's 6:21 in the morning. i haven't even had breakfast yet. sheesh, what you do to me. i like it.
Posted by chanelle at February 27, 2008 8:23 AM @ radish: I make puddings & gelatos all the time using 2% instead of whole milk. This doesn't affect the flavour, it just means the dessert will not be quite as rich. Posted by naomi at February 27, 2008 8:24 AM hello pudding master lebovitz, could you tell me what kind of whiskey you prefer to use? i'm not much of whiskey drinker, but i do have a bottle of maker's mark in house. would bourbon lend itself well to butterscotch goodness? Posted by Mari at February 27, 2008 8:28 AM Mari: I used Jack Daniel's, which is what I had on hand. Maker's Mark is great, or even a bottle of real Scotch works well too. Ok...and dark rum is a nice substitute, although the alcohol can be omitted entirely, too. Posted by David at February 27, 2008 9:03 AM I was just thinking about making the chocolate pudding from your Great Book of Chocolate (thanks for the tip, by the way, on your Ripe for Dessert book--I'll get a copy right away), but my love for butterscotch combined with this recipe definitely override yesterday's urges! (And yes, I'm looking forward to that lovely pudding skin!) I'm also hooked on The Biggest Loser! It's a very guilty pleasure for me. I don't know if I saw the episode with a contestant eating nine brownies. Wow, nine. I've never eaten nine brownies in one sitting, but even so, I'm really glad there's no video camera in my kitchen! Especially for after I make this pudding... Posted by Suzanne at February 27, 2008 10:30 AM I am obsessed with The Biggest Loser. I nearly bawled last night watching it. I also nearly bawled the two (two!) times this past week I have tried and failed to make butterscotch pudding (though I was at least able to salvage on into a most-deletable ice cream). David, you're such a showoff! It's okay, my Dishwasher like to show off too: he is an excellent black-and-white cookie icer. Posted by Deb Perelman at February 27, 2008 10:45 AM Please. Move in with me immediately. I beg you. Posted by French Laundry at Home at February 27, 2008 11:23 AM "...but it's nice to see a program where competitors support each other to achieve their goals. I guess I've been away from the states for too long...I know, I know...pas américain!" hahaha Posted by Murasaki Shikibu at February 27, 2008 12:40 PM Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm. This is a "healthy" recipe, if you compare it with the butterscotch pots de creme from Orangette I made a few days ago. That one is entirely heavy cream, made with muscovado and demerera sugars. The muscovado was new to me, and now you add cassonade! Off to Google ... Posted by Kitt at February 27, 2008 1:03 PM Kitt: Cassonade is the best. I use it all the time. I've been going back through previous recipes and using milk in place of cream and whole eggs in lieu of yolks, where it doesn't make much difference in the final product. So I don't feel so guilty eating all the brie and camembert around here! Carol: That depends; what shape is your oven in? Posted by David at February 27, 2008 1:40 PM I love it when a bit of people's personality comes through in something they've made...I don't know you, of course, but you've expressed you're predeliction for retro modern stuff a few times and combining such a retro dessert with that 70's (60's?) dish is just great! I love it when it comes together like that : ) Nicely done! Posted by elarael at February 27, 2008 1:53 PM My oven is magnifique. And it has a working handle on the door, to boot! Posted by French Laundry at Home at February 27, 2008 2:28 PM You've inspired me to make this - today - and who knows if I'll wait until one of them is cool to indulge. Also - the pudding skin?? The BEST PART! Posted by JennB33 at February 27, 2008 2:58 PM I knew I shouldn't have checked out your site when I'm starving. Just got off work and I need some calories!!! I'll take those 9 brownies thank you very much (hidden camera be damned). Thanks for the stove-top recipe. I don't have an oven in my teeny tiny Parisian apartment and I'm always looking for desserts that impress that I can cook on my two-burner plaque. Any more you feel like sharing? Gros Bisous, Ms. Glaze Posted by Ms. Glaze at February 27, 2008 6:03 PM Beautiful pudding. I'm making it tonight. As for the worst of American tv being imported to Europe--I was dismayed to find out from some kids I talked to in Italy that they see Jerry Springer, The Simpsons, and South Park. No wonder our image in Europe is a bit distorted! On the other hand, French Academy award winner Marion Cotillard is a beautiful and charming export from France. Posted by Linda H at February 27, 2008 6:30 PM Actually, The Biggest Loser has the distinction of being a European import. I remember watching it in Flemish when I was in Belgium for a conference several years ago. Big Brother was first a German (?) reality show, if I'm not mistaken. Posted by Tisha at February 27, 2008 6:55 PM I don't know David, will Carol share you with Mike Bloomberg? Or is she just planning on setting aside a wing of the White House for you when they move in? Thank you sir, for your opinions on pudding skin and their absolute gospel trueness. I made my pudding tonight with bourbon made from honey that the wild turkey people put out. Just waiting for it to chill... Posted by queenofsheba at February 27, 2008 7:35 PM OMG...I just want to crawl into the dish and bathe in that pudding... Posted by Linda at February 27, 2008 7:39 PM moi aussi j'adore la peau de la crème, aucun interet sans, autant s'acheter de la danette sinon :) Posted by krysalia (france) at February 28, 2008 5:56 AM What I want to know is how to make pudding that is nothing but that gooey thick top? Maybe spread it on a baking sheet? I live for that top. It's all I want to eat and when it's gone, I am so sad. Delightful recipe; homemade pudding is so wonderful! Posted by Kate at February 28, 2008 8:24 AM How about Next, 5th wheel, and the other really really bad ones they've imported!? The other day I zapped by the French version of Next - "Next in France". It truly frightens me. More than what my waistline will look like after I eat all the pudding I'm planning on making with your recipe! Posted by seta at February 28, 2008 9:04 AM Sorry to see that those dreadful reality shows have made their way there too. I cannot wait for them to run their course and be done with them, for good! Posted by Tanya at February 28, 2008 9:25 AM David; We made this a few weeks ago at the place I teach cooking to kids called create a cook. We made it with the 9-11 year olds, I chose the recipe because most of these kids have only ever seen pudding made out of a box. They all loved it! Of course I did have to argue with two of the girls who wanted to put plastic wrap to avoid the yummy skin...heinous! I tried to convince them, but they would hear none of it. Posted by jo at February 28, 2008 10:02 AM It seems to me that there's money to be made in those pudding skins. (Like, who'd of thought potato skins would be so popular?) If someone out there could come up with pudding skins in various flavors—chocolate, butterscotch, vanilla, etc—they could make a fortune! Posted by David at February 28, 2008 10:21 AM ooh, last time i tried to make butterscotch pudding - before your oh so helpful caramel making tips - there was a lot of burned sugar and some largely inedible pudding (i *had* to eat some of it... i mean, come on, it's pudding). i don't like pudding skin. i am not ashamed of that. -- Us vs. Food Posted by Michelle @ Us vs. Food at February 28, 2008 12:23 PM David, Posted by Elizabeth at February 28, 2008 1:25 PM *Swoon*... Posted by Tartelette at February 28, 2008 2:31 PM Elizabeth: Cassonade is unrefined brown sugar and piloncillo, I would imagine, is a perfect substitute. You may need to grate it since I've only seen it in cones. I just bought some jaggery from India (another unrefined sugar) which I can't wait to use as well. Posted by David at February 28, 2008 2:37 PM Thanks for the rapid reply, David. Grating piloncillo in the food processor with the grater attachment works well. Can't wait to make this pudding, and thanks for sharing the recipe. BTW, your anise ice cream from "The Perfect Scoop" is my all-time favorite ice cream. Posted by Elizabeth at February 28, 2008 3:13 PM That looks great! I especially love the chocolate shavings on top. Posted by Jessica at February 28, 2008 3:28 PM Hi David! Okay, I just made this pudding (as I said I would above!) and it's chilling in the fridge right now. My initial taste of the warm pudding was delightful, and it'll make a fine dessert tonight (and a nice surprise for my boyfriend when he gets home from work)--though I'm wondering if I should have left it on the heat longer when I added the sugar and salt to the butter in the first step. When you say "stir until the sugar is well-moistened," should this be a definitive caramelizing moment? I may be an idiot (I've had a suspicion for a while now...), but I just stirred until the brown sugar had completely mixed with the sugar. I'm worried I missed out on some fantastic caramel flavor! Posted by Suzanne at February 28, 2008 4:20 PM Your pictures for this post were absolutely over the top. Yum. Posted by theitaliandish at February 28, 2008 7:13 PM David, I popped over here to say hello and check out more of your desserts. I had found a delicious GF version of a chocolate sweet treat that you whipped up for Shauna, which is featured in her Gluten Free Girl book. Thank you for that. So as my luck would have it, now I have two recipes for something to quench my sweet tooth. Oh how I love pudding. lollya Posted by lollya at February 28, 2008 7:45 PM I made this recipe today and it was awesome. I only had 2% milk and regular dark brown sugar on hand and it still tasted great. I served it with a sprinkling of fleur de sel on top and it was a hit. Plays on salty and sweet are quite trendy right and there is a reason: they are fantastic! Posted by Amanda at February 28, 2008 8:39 PM Suzanne: When I used cassonade sugar, it basically needs to be moistened; that is, all the butter is absorbed by the sugar and it's relatively smooth (although it'll still be sugary-grainy.) Here's a picture of what the sugar looks like when you add the milk. If using ordinary brown sugar, it's will likely liquify and start to sizzle around the edges. It's fine at this point, or you can cook it a little bit. But it's unnecessary since the flavor mostly comes from the brown sugar itself and isn't caramelized. Posted by David at February 29, 2008 3:01 AM Thanks, David! I love your pictures -- they're so helpful. Seems like I made it correctly. It was a big hit last night! Posted by Suzanne at February 29, 2008 10:19 AM David. my mouth is watering! As a kid I was in a children's theater production of 'Oliver!' where the directors gave the chorus Butterscotch Pudding (in lieu of gruel). We were supposed to bang our bowls to the beat of the song, but I sat there (the youngest and littlest 'orphan') licking away every drop of the pudding-I must have looked like an orphelin, indeed! They got rid of the pudding after that. I haven't had BP since, but I think I must try yours...thanks for the trip down memory lane! Posted by Rebecca at February 29, 2008 12:13 PM David, I just stumbled across your blog via The Village Vegan. I wish I had found your musing before, since I just returned from a semester abroad in Paris! Reading some of your posts is making my kind of nostalgic and I'm a bit jealous of your life, it seems. Keep up the great work and keep the recipes coming! New Reader, Sarah Shoemaker Posted by Sarah Shoemaker at February 29, 2008 1:09 PM oooooh I LOVE the skin on puddings and custard and I always thought I was the only one with this weird habit, whilst my friends and family turned away in horror! Posted by Anna at February 29, 2008 1:36 PM I just made this...easy...such an "adult" tasting pudding. I used regular old American dark brown sugar.It went together quickly and I had no problem with curdling....they are cooling on the counter now...can not wait to try it cold! Posted by Linda at February 29, 2008 2:13 PM I made chocolate pudding cake last night and now I am imagining the leftovers with a spoonful of this delectable looking pudding on top. Good thing I'm hitting the gym after work! Posted by Lyra at February 29, 2008 2:18 PM David - this isn't related to butterscotch pudding, but after reading the recipe, I might be making that tonight too! I just wanted to let you know that I received The Perfect Scoop and the ice cream attachment for my Kitchenaid (named Marvin, pistachio green!) this past Christmas and I've been basking in frozen goodies ever since! I love the book and your recipes are fantastic (based on mine and many happy taster's reviews!). Tonight I'm making the maple walnut with wet walnuts and the malted milk (boyfriend is allergic to chocolate, so I always end up making two a week - I'm not complaining though!). Thank you so much for writing this book - it is quickly becoming the most well-used dessert book in my collection.
Posted by katie at February 29, 2008 6:11 PM Having been a closet pudding skin eater for eons, I gave such a sigh of relief to read that there are others like me in the world. Posted by Christine at February 29, 2008 6:54 PM Oy vey. I guess it's not too healthy to make this at 11:40pm is it. A moment on the lips... Maybe tomorrow then. ;) I've lurked your site for quite some time and absolutely love it. Thank you and keep it up! Posted by Rina at March 1, 2008 2:40 AM Oh - and I LOVE pudding skin. And the waxy rind on a good Gouda or Edam. I'm disgusting, I know. Posted by Rina at March 1, 2008 2:42 AM Now that's more than fair! Two great recipes instead of one. It was worth all the nagging ;-) Posted by Joanna in the kitchen at March 1, 2008 3:15 PM I see the word butterscotch and I start hyperventilating. I've had your book (for how long? since the year it was published) and I've yet to make your pudding recipe. That, I promise myself, is about to change. Thanks for the reminder and the updated recipe. Posted by brett at March 1, 2008 11:09 PM It's kizmet. I just told my little girl today I would make her butterscotch pudding... And I'm sappy too, I loooove the Biggest Loser, they transform their entire lives!! I get all weepy... Posted by Lesley at March 2, 2008 11:52 AM I just discovered your site and I am in love with this pudding. It looks fabulous and all I am doing is thinking about how I must make this ASAP! Posted by Christine at March 2, 2008 8:35 PM David, Posted by Petra at March 3, 2008 10:32 AM Ooh I'm glad I got to benefit from both ends of this deal, butterscotch pudding AND black and white cookies! Posted by Hillary at March 4, 2008 5:23 PM I love butterscotch. Now David, how am I going to continue to lose weight if you keep posting recipes like this? Whatever happened to carrot sticks?! Posted by Deborah Dowd at March 4, 2008 9:23 PM The skin is the best part! Posted by AHarste at March 5, 2008 1:03 PM David, I tried this recipe because I love butterscotch pudding so much but it wasn't quite to my taste. It was a little too sweet (weight everything so sugar was right on) and a little too thin. Suggestions for adjusting the ratios? Posted by Kitarra at March 5, 2008 7:40 PM Kitarra: Sure, you can easily reduce the amount of sugar to your taste and up the amount of cornstarch, or add more eggs yolks to make it thicker. Posted by David at March 6, 2008 2:25 AM This butterscotch pudding sounds delectable, unfortunately I have been unable to locate any brown sugar since I moved here to France. When in England I purchased a large bag of dark brown sugar but I sadly saw the last of it this month (funny but the only things I brought home from there were ingredients I couldnt find here in France) Posted by Diane at March 6, 2008 7:54 AM Diane: Check out my post American Baking in Paris. There's tips on where to find some key ingredients...but the cassonade cuivrée in the recipe is available at any natural foods store and many supermarkets. (As far as mainstream brands, I like the Daddy brand the best.) Posted by David at March 6, 2008 7:58 AM hi David, I've made this twice so far and it is delicous! I have one question for you. After making the pudding, I packed it in a little cup to take to work the next day as a homemade SnackPack. However, it was super watery when I went to go eat it, and the remaining pudding in the fridge had big puddles of liquid. I also noticed that it was getting a little bit grainy? or you could notice a slightly grainy texture to the pudding. It was still delicious, but not the really pudding anymore. I know that certain custards/puddings can get watery if you scoop it after the initial set. Is there any way to combat this watery-ness other than eating everything right away? Posted by Jin at March 7, 2008 11:03 AM Hi Jin: You could add more cornstarch, which absorbs liquid. Be sure to cook it enough too, since the cooking 'activates' the cornstarch and gets it to set. It's not a super-thick pudding but is meant to be soft and creamy. Try pouring it right into small containers while it's hot. Hope those tips help! Posted by David at March 7, 2008 4:20 PM David, I just made this today and could have eaten it straight out of the pot before it cooled down. It was so simple to make. Thank you thank you thank you. Posted by Lydia at April 2, 2008 2:53 PM Good idea! Posted by Memmorium at April 11, 2008 10:43 AM Thanks David for the recipe. Couple of quick ideas to share. First, Jin probably OVER cooked her pudding; when overcooked, the egg and cornstarch proteins coil so tightly that they stop holding as much liquid, resulting in liquid separation. Same principle as over-cooked pumpkin pie. PS - Die-hard robe-ist here. Posted by Sean Early at April 18, 2008 2:06 PM Post a comment
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