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Panettone French Toast

I’ve been pondering what, if anything, I should close out the year with. In the past, I’ve written down my thoughts here, which I spent the last couple of days pondering. Reading and re-reading what I wrote, I realized that I couldn’t quite figure out what I wanted to say. And if I couldn’t figure it out, I didn’t feel like I shouldย inflict that on…

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Plum Flaugnarde

Once again, I found myself with an overload of fruit. Sure, I like pears and apples, which showย up at the market on the cusp of autumn. But I want summer to last as long as possible. So when I see good nectarines, peaches, and plums lingering at the market, I pack my market basketย to the brim,ย carefully making sure the delicate fruits aren’t going to get…

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Plum and Rhubarb Crisp

I’m not sure if I just returned from lunch, or if I was privy to a top-secret breeding ground for a race of super lovely people, that also happen to be amazing cooks. When I walked into the home of Rachel Allen, who’d invited a few of us traveling through Ireland for lunch, I was stunned by A) The stunning kitchen, b) The stunning view,…

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Rotisserie d’Argent

A stalwart of the “old guard” of classic Paris bistros has been revived. The reliable Rรดtisserie du Beaujolais, across the street from the Seine, had been remodeled and refreshed as Rรดtisserie d’Argent, the new name giving a nod to its famous cousin just across the street, the Tour d’Argent. [UPDATE: I posted this write-up in 2017, over six years ago (and pre-pandemic) and since then,…

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Panna Cotta recipe

Panna cotta is incredibly easy to make, and if it takes you more than five minutes to put it together, you’re taking too long!ย The result is a silky, custard-like dessert that pairs well with fresh fruit, a compote of baked fruits, or even just a spoonful of homemade jam. Interestingly, it’s become popular in Paris and nowadays, it’s just as common to see it on…

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Floating Island

When asked about my โ€œdesert islandโ€ dessert, it takes me about a nanosecond to respond, and I invariably reply that it’d be ล’ufs ร  la neige, otherwise known as โ€œSnow Eggs.โ€ Itโ€™s one of those classic French desserts that, even though Iโ€™m not French, I have a deep fondness โ€“ and a sense of nostalgia โ€“ for. When I order it in restaurants I am…

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Baked Marsala Pears

Because it’s one of my common pantry items, shortly after I’d moved to Paris, I went to the supermarket to get Marsala, to stock my larder. Much to my surprise, the supermarket didn’t have it. So I went to another, then another. Then another. Then I went to some liquor stores, where I thought for sure it would be on the shelf, but no one…

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Red Wine Poached Pear Tart

Some say that the French can be very narrow in their definitions of things, which is why traditional French cuisine can be so simple, yet spectacular; because the classics don’t get messed with. Other cuisines, however, do get modified to local tastes, like les brochettes de bล“uf-fromage, or beef skewers with cheese, at les sushis restaurants, popcorn available as salty or sweet (!?), and while…

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Orange Creme Anglaise

When I started working at Chez Panisse, there was something called crรจme anglaise on the menu…and my job was to make it. Of course, I had no idea what crรจme anglaise was โ€“ other than something with a funny name that I got in trouble for pronouncing wrong on several occasions. But I pretended I knew what it was when everyone was talking about making…

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