One of the nifty things about a blog is that you can easily revisit recipes and make revisions, while learning more about baking, and sharing those discoveries, as you go. When I wrote Ready for Dessert, I was able to update my favorite recipes, many created over a decade ago, and I had fun including the changes I’d made over the years.
Recently I got a message from a friend, asking about a brownie recipe from the book, and I decided to remake it to answer his questions. As I looked over the ingredient list, I thought it would be interesting to give a flourless version a try, swapping out the flour with a mixture of corn starch and unsweetened cocoa powder. And the result? A super-moist, fudgy brownie that used ingredients that most people already have on hand, which is another hallmark of a great brownie recipe.
This is a pretty amusing recipe to me because as I mentioned in the book, the first time I made it, it was a disaster and I blamed Robert Steinberg, who first gave me the recipe that this is adapted from. I made it, and the results were a grainy, broken mess – which I was sure to let him know about. After he scolded me for not following the instructions to beat the batter for a full minute to smooth it out, I sheepishly headed back to the kitchen and made it again.
And lo and behold, they came out beautifully; rich and dark, studded with crisp nuts and lots of deep chocolate flavor. I packed a few up for a friend who was taking a train trip out of Paris yesterday with her kids, and this morning I woke up to a note demanding the recipe.
One thing I did learn from making this over and over again is that one shouldn’t use an enameled cast-iron saucepan, which possibly holds heat too well, and the batter doesn’t emulsify and smooth out as effectively. So use a metal pan. Also I originally made them in a 9-inch (23 cm) square pan but decided I like the brownies better in a smaller pan so they’re a little thicker.
Curiously, in France, recipes often don’t call for pan sizes, and bakers, I suppose, are welcome to modify or create as they please. Or perhaps they’re just covering their bases and wisely leaving room for future inspiration.
For readers in the United Kingdom, there’s now a UK-version of Ready for Dessert.
Adventure Bread (Gluten-free)