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La Tuile a Loup

Zut! Just after I walked into La Tuile à Loup, the owner of the shop was presenting a customer with two cassoles that he’d retrieved from his store-room, to choose from. As the customer scrutinized each one, I also was eyeing them both longingly, with the same feeling that you get when you’re at a flea market and someone is holding something that you really, really want, and gently negotiating with the vendor. But there’s nothing you can do except wait for that precise moment when they set it back on the table and their hand unclenches the object. And it’s fair game, and ripe for the taking.

La Tuile a Loup

No such luck for me, as of the two presented, the guy took the one that I wanted. (The other one that was for sale was just like the one I have. Although thou shall not covet another’s cassole, I wanted the one, shown – that he bought – because it had straighter sides. And because greed is not a sin – at least in my book – I felt it okay to want both.)

La Tuile a Loup

After he left and I got over it (which actually may take a few weeks…) I starting talking to the charming Eric Goujou, who took over La Tuile à Loup in 2006. He was a collector, and customer, himself. When the owner retired, he bought the shop.

La Tuile a Loup

But it’s not just us that likes French pottery. A lot of visitors come to France, looking for handmade French poterie. And La Tuile à Loup is the place to find it.

La Tuile a Loup

When I went to Provence a few years back, I was with some pals from the states who wanted French pottery. But to be honest, it’s tough to find the real deal nowadays. Much of it is made elsewhere (often in North Africa, where people will work for less), and it’s hard to find a comprehensive range of truly exceptional pieces, especially all in one place.

La Tuile a Loup

Eric showcases artisan French pottery from all across the country; Alsace, the Camargue, Normandy, and Provence. Although they’re all one-of-a-kind pieces, the plates, bowls, and platters, could certainly be put to use every day.

La Tuile a Loup

Even Paris is represented, with shelves of dinnerware from one of my favorite potters, Sylvie Saint-André Perrin, who throws pottery in her atelier in the 14th arrondissement. Her swirly designs always mesmerize me. And if it wasn’t so fragile, I’d have a lot more of her pieces than the lone bowl that I guard with my life.

La Tuile a Loup

La Tuile a Loup

I saw a cake plate that I wanted, which was so beautiful, that I wondered if I’d have the nerve to cut a cake on it.

La Tuile a Loup

Speaking of cutting, Eric stocks slender knives from Couteaux Nontron made in the Dordogne, which were on the table at a restaurant where I’d had dinner just a few nights before. (Although tempted, I didn’t swipe mine.)

La Tuile a Loup

I also can’t resist gratin dishes. Any kind I see, I want. Especially the gorgeous round number that Eric hefted tempted me with.

La Tuile a Loup

And this oval, orange beauty was, indeed, hard to resist, too. I tried to reason that it’s perfect for presenting endive and ham gratin, or leeks vinaigrette. But resist, I did.

La Tuile a Loup

I did come home with a rectangular serving dish with a unique swirly pattern, and a few pieces of luminous blue and green pottery from the Camargue, a lesser-known region of France that’s recognized for its salt, rice and, curiously, pink flamingos.

La Tuile a Loup

Years ago, I was in Nancy and our hostess served Baeckeoffe, an Alsatian specialty which she described as, “…just a stew with meat and potatoes. It’s a very light dish.” (I questioned whether a meat and potato stew could be classified as “light.”) But when she lifted the lid off the baeckeoffe, the dish that is named after the stew, or vice versa (?), I vowed that I would buy one of those lidded casseroles and make one at home – light or not.

However because my pottery collection has spilled over from my kitchen cabinets and shelves, to my office – and even my bedroom, I haven’t picked up a baeckeoffe yet. (Although oddly, I still could have found room for that cassole that got away…) nor have I made the stew. But perhaps if I actually had the casserole, I would make it.

La Tuile a Loup

But at least I know where to find one, as well as all sorts of other beautiful handmade pottery, when I finally decide to.

La Tuile à Loup
35, rue Daubenton (5th)
Tél: 01 47 07 28 90
Métro: Censier-Daubenton

NOTE: If you wish to visit the shop, you can make an appointment. Call the shop (Eric, the owner, is fluent in French and English), or send an email, to arrange a visit.

La Tuile a Loup

La Tuile a Loup



    • Jess @ The Baguette Diet

    Wow, so gorgeous! I can’t believe I didn’t realize that French pottery was a thing?

    If I had the cabinet space (and wasn’t so clumsy) I’d be runnign to get that cake plate right now…

    • Jane

    David I, too, have a weakness for gorgeous hand made pottery and I am swooning at the sight of those gorgeously decorated bowls – the ones with the lemons on. And the colored plates. Divine!

    • Lisa Ernst

    This is truly art! Normally I don’t pay too much attention to pottery but many of these pieces are stunning.

    • Louise

    Hello David, fabulous post as always. I too come away from this beautiful shop wanting most things in it,and can never decide what I really need,only what I would like, so mostly follow the heart. Storage space is a pest ,but when I really covet a piece I try not to let that stand in my way!
    Best wishes Louise

    • Jessica

    You should check out japanese pottery if you like ceramics with an attitude and personality. Especially raku, but any hand thrown item, regardless of technique used, can blow you away.

    • Jenny

    Très jolie! Fell in love at first sight with the green and turquoise pottery.

    La Tuile à Loup added to my list of places to visit in Paris. Good thing the flight isn’t booked yet, need to prepare by clearing some space in the cabinets… Will head to a shop that usually carries Seville oranges when in season and make le vin d’orange while I dream of “my” green plates and turquoise mugs.

    • Lea

    How gorgeous — every single piece and I especially love the bowls with the swirly marble glazes. I could have that in my kitchen and no other dishes — what a find David and beautiful photography and colors. Holding and eating out of handmade pottery is an experience so different from mass produced dishes.

    • Rebecca @ Bring Back Delicious

    As I read, I started to wonder how many dishes you have at home and yup, this sounds about right: “spilled over from my kitchen cabinets and shelves, to my office – and even my bedroom”.

    I can’t imagine what these pieces must cost, but I’m sure the technique and artistry makes it worth a splurge now and then.

    • Mardi (eat. live. travel. write.)

    I wanted everything when we went to Poterie Not Frères a few years ago, came home with one lonely cassole. Will be checking this place out in March!

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I don’t know how you came home with just one! : )

    • Steve Martin

    LOVE those swirly bowls!

    • Mark

    Too true about finding the “real deal” in this country. While locating locally produced food products is still relatively easy, true French stuff for the home, for children, for life can be tricky. It is disheartening to find adorable little plates for our kids and flip them over to see the dreaded “Made in China.” I’ll have to check this place out next time in la capitale; thanks for the post.

    • Anne

    I would never have been able to walk out without that gorgeous round gratin. I imagine now I’ll spend the rest of the winter obsessing over it, impatient that I don’t have it. Gah!

    • Ken

    I am headed to Paris in May. Will I need to take out a small loan to buy most dishes here? I love every dish I see in your pictures and am trying to figure out how to carry them back to Canada.

    • Clara

    I covet that oval dish with golden yellow- orange interior. It looks like a perfect dish in which to present asparagus.

    • AngeK

    OMG! My weakness. Gorgeous colors and perfect shapes! Gorgeous colors and designs! Have I said that?

    • Elzbieta Gerla

    I’m heading to Paris is September and wonder if they ship…..or I will have to take a second suitcase, which may not be a bad idea. I think I will reserve the better part of a day for this shop.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Yes, he does ship. However it can be expensive if you want heavy pieces sent. But it is a possibility.

    • Mary

    I am still pretty bummed over not buying some pottery when we found a shop in the 6th, a few blocks north of Laduree patisserie. It was a tiny shop on the same side as Laduree, and featured pottery from the south of France. Stunning and rich in color. It was a bit pricey but hey, how many times can I expect to travel to Paris? For those of you headed over there, check it out. Run by a very feisty woman but don’t let her turn you off. Its great!

    • Gayle

    I recall stopping in to La Tuile à Loup years ago, before the current owner bought the shop. I bought a mug there, that I still love and use every day. I also remember leaving without a casserole I wanted *badly* because I didn’t have room in my luggage.

    I’ve since learned to travel with an empty bag to bring those treasures home….

    • mary susan

    I love this shop! Does he still carry the enormous, beautiful goose tureen?

      • Paula ungar

      We have stayed in biot innear villineuve
      Loubet . Boot has great pottery also Biot not boot is the correct sp.

      • Paula ungar

      We lived on rue de l, university for 4 years 26 rue de l’universite
      Next time we come will look at the store. Paula ungar

    • Anita Madison

    While I am glad for Eric that your column will do wonders for his business, I’m somewhat sad that my off the beaten path shop that I’ve been going to for years will now be crowded. The former owners were so lovely, but the first thing I said to Eric after he bought it was how nicely he had arranged everything. So much easier to find just the right piece. Will be back in April to add to my collection.


    • joan munger

    Your food blogs are awesome but this one makes my mouth water. I have been collecting pottery since the mid sixties and do all my prepping and serving in odd plates and bowls that I love. Oh to be able to wander through this beautiful shop. Thank you for sharing!

    • Suzanne

    Regarding those pink flamingos, when I first saw them I also thought “How silly, they are just ordinary pink ones.” Then something disturbed them and they took of to fly a little distance away. Incroyable!!! They have marvelous black feathers under their wings and it was awe inspiring. I’m glad I had already purchased the obligatory fleur de sel de Camargue as I could have stayed there all day, just watching take-off and landing.

    • IshitaUnblogged

    OMG! I love these… I wish I had more space than what I have right now, to stock up with these beauties!

    • Ilsabe

    Gorgeous!! Went to the website and was overcome with desire for some of the objects on the front page. Maybe I could get there this summer…

    • Katherine

    I want a cassole! I believe you posted a source once in the past, unfortunately, before I had discovered your blog, which I now follow religiously. If you ever find a source with enough cassoles to publish, I would be grateful.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Eric does sell cassoles however due to space, usually only brings them out in the fall, when people make cassoulet. But if you’re interested in one, he has them in storage and will happily bring them out. (He also mail orders them, although due to their weight, that increases the cost due to shipping fees.)

    • Deborah

    I think there’s a similar place on rue de l’Université in the 6è as well — but maybe not such a wide selection.

    • Susan Honeycutt

    Love reading about my favorite shop in Paris. La Tuile à Loup has been on my must visit list every time I make it through Paris. The first time I went there (back in the ’90’s) I was so overwhelmed that I had to make a list of everything I was lusting for, go back to my hotel to decide rationally what I would buy and make a trip back the next day to make my purchases. We still use the pottery I bought on that trip nearly everyday and my pottery addiction has not abated. We were there a few days after 9/11 and the original owner was so incredibly kind to us. We had to ship all of our purchases home (which I never do with pottery) and everything arrived in perfect condition.

    • Cecilia

    David, greed is not a sin when it comes to pottery because pottery is always shared with others when you use it – how is that for rationalizing an addiction. I would have made awful remarks about the one you wanted such as “it is so ordinary” and the other buyer may have put it down and after he left I would have bought it. Now that is a sin! I always make room for one more piece. I went to the website and everything is beautiful. I love French pottery!

    • Anita

    Glad to see La Tuile à Loup is still around! I went during my Parisian honeymoon in 2001 (shortly after 9/11). My mouth was agape when I walked in. The owner was impressed that I spoke enough “shopping” French — she asked me what I would like. I told her I wanted to take the entire store home. She smiled and said, “Oh, that can be arranged if you’d like!”

    I bought some very unique espresso cups (never used — solely for display), as well as some pitchers (also just for display — I’ve also been loathe to use them to put flowers (well, with water). Now I really want to come back for another Parisian visit! ^_^

    • Kathleen

    I bought two small Alsatian gratin dishes there, back in the 90s, that I still use all the time. So glad the shop is still going strong! My prized piece of French pottery was purchased in Biot, bought for me by my mom when I claimed it was too expensive: an elegant, dramatic, moss green oval platter. I treasure it dearly and hope I never break it!

    • Dana

    Si belle! I read this while sipping a café au lait from my one and only french mug.

    • Lydia

    Found this place once when headed to Rue Moufftard. Bought some beautiful bowls which I brought home in my carry-on, compulsively checking my bag…..they survived! Now it’s always a destination when in Paris. Outstanding pottery!

    • Linda H

    Beautiful pottery! Are you also ever tempted by the extraordinary French fine china–the Haviland, Bernardaud, or Limoges?

    • Paul Lambert

    We have a number of pieces from the shop. It is a regular stop each time we are in Paris. We use them all the time as the chips can can vouch for that. I see some new patterns since our last visit. Will visit this Fall. Thanks for the tour.

    • ron shapley(NYC)

    Dave……….I went to Le Fanion in the West Village today to check out their wares…………….I told the proprietress, Madame Claud Noel, about your blog on La Tuile à Loup…. She says her shop is better…… LOL….competition across the pond !!…Thanks Dave. Beautiful post.

    • Barry B

    I love La Tuile à Loup, which I discovered one year when I lived nearby for a month, and still like to go when I visit Paris. We have found a number of one-of-a-kind pottery pieces by local artists there, as well as the more traditional pieces. But another good source for French pottery, particularly if you live in France, so that shipping is less costly, is Souleo Pottery (formerly Terre e Provence). Check out their catalogue. And they are very helpful, as well.

    • Linda

    What a great shop David. I will have to visit it when I come back. I have been a potter for 35 years now, working in earthenware and I always visit local potters when I travel. The Poterie Not Frères is the real deal, authentic and beautifully made pots.
    Have you been to Bram in Sonoma Ca?
    Don’t know if you are aware of this book …it’s a beauty – The French Country Table Pottery & Faience of Provence

    • Dennis DiMuzio

    Try Atelier Vert online for cassoles and other pottery cookware. I bought a poelon, two different vinaigriers, a diable, and a daubiere. They’re all beautiful. However, the last time I purchased the French government had changed the shipping charges. The result was that everything nearly doubled in price! (I’m probably still going to buy a cassole.)

    • Suzy @ The Mediterranean Dish

    I can not decide which of the beautiful pieces you shared is my favorite. I went through the pictures a number of times, pausing and coveting–a lot!!! I will have to say I paused a little longer at the luminous blue and green pottery from the Camargue. Something about those colors takes me home to the shores of Mediterranean :-) Beautiful post, David. Thank you for sharing.

    • farmerpam

    Lovely, just lovely. Yet another place to put on my list for that “someday” trip around the world. Sigh.

    • Paula DeGrand

    What perfect timing, to read this post today and find myself swooning as much as ever over these colors and shapes that I’ve loved for years and years. They are inspiring my total kitchen and dining room redesign. Thank you.

    • Leslie

    I have a spoon rest that I bought there 2 years ago. I treasure it and wash it carefully by hand. It was expensive, but it takes me back to Paris every time I use it. Love your blog, David.

    • Fran Tunno

    Thanks David, now I have something else to lust over –absolutely wonderful pottery. Good reason to come to France.

    • Liz

    Get the cake plate. It’s lovely.

    • Tamsin

    Oh I love the green and turquoise dishes! If you’re planning a trip to the Lot area there’s a fantastic little poterie just outside the village of Caberets. It’s in a cave by the side of the road and they use beautiful speckled glazes. I keep my eggs in a red bowl with black flecks I bought there years ago, it reminds me of some lovely holidays every time I see it.

    • Daphne

    I covet those Sylvie Saint-André Perrin pieces, so beautiful. In the last picture, what is the small rectangular covered baker for? I’ve recently inherited one and do not know what to make in it as it is so small. Thank you for your advice, and also for your lovely and always inspiring posts!

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Those are for baking terrines and pâtés ~

    • Jody

    We have loved this shop through the years and always come home with treasures. Do they still have all the other items other than pottery from every region in France? One trip we purchased several very special table linens that were unbelievably gorgeous. Our large Christmas linen tablecloth and another long multi colored linen tablecloth from the south. If the shop still carries all of these types of regional handmade home ware items, I would highly recommend going! It’s a bit off the beaten track (we still remember the challenge finding it the first time) but well worth it.

    • Fiona

    Wonderful! That last photo of the marbled bowls is calling my name!
    David, if you are ever tempted to go to a Greek island, choose Sifnos – not only does it have a strong culinary history, but it’s a verifiable pottery paradise. So many ceramicists on one small island, making everything from rustic, to modern and sophisticated (check out Julie Tzanni’s work). Anyway, just a tip from one ceramics nut to another!

    • Oonagh

    Ooh, finally some pottery porn, thank you David!

    • Shari Greenman

    It doesn’t seem like their website is up and running to sell which is disappointing. Since I’m not getting there in the near future, you might let them know that many Americans love reading your blog and we also love shopping! Their business might increase if they have this interest.
    Love all your stuff David.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Many websites in France aren’t really set up for direct sales for a variety of reasons – one is that it’s a challenge to do online sales and run a shop, since it’s very expensive to have employees, people who take care of orders, customer service, and shipping – and most small businesses can’t afford it. That said, Eric is super-responsive and if you send a message through his website with an inquiry, I am certain he’ll respond as he loves what he does, and his pottery, of course.

    • Hillary

    How lovely! It looks like you must have had quite an enjoyable time there, arranging everything and photographing it (and the proprietor is obviously quite enthusiastic and generous with his wares). And I’m surprised to see how many readers have been to this shop!

    • KJA

    Beautiful colors, shapes, designs but …. the lustre makes me question if they are lead glazes. I purchased gorgeous, luminous pottery in Lebanon and discovered that it was a lead glaze. Dangerous.

    • anna@icyvioletskitchen

    these are so beautiful! such colors. i have the envy.

    • Sharyn

    Gorgeous gorgeous pottery! If you fancy a visit to Lyon is September, there is a wonderful pottery fair held every year in the old part of the city which features handmade pottery (hundreds of stalls) from all over France, Les Tupiniers du vieux Lyon. I stumbled across it by accident the first time but have made 2 further trips specifically to buy some pottery. I now have some wonderful pieces of French pottery that I have carted halfway around the world and use every day. I think this is the official website:

    • Martie

    Beautiful, gorgeous pottery. I am from South Africa and visit my daughter, who lives in Beynes, just outside Paris, at the moment. She gave me a signed copy of “The Sweet Life in Paris”, some time ago. A book I enjoy and read and use every now and then. Love your Blog.
    Martie Manley

    • Fran

    I keep thinking I will run into you some time when I come to Paris, and last week must have been close.

    I never come to Paris without shopping in Tuile a Loup. I would rather pay a little more money for something truly grand that the same amount on loads of baubles.

    this store is wonderful, and so is Eric.

    Not only does he ship, he will also pack things you are hand carrying home with such care that they are guaranteed to arrive safely if you exercise reasonable caution.

    Over the years I have hauled back large and small bowls, varied serving pieces and just this year purchased my first swirly piece. I also fondled that same cake plate as you did, but already had 3 other pieces.

    I so admire your photos which are often made more beautiful by the serving pieces you use. whenever you post about stopping by various flea markets and this or that divine little object I want to stop everything and cruise around the south shopping for pottery.

    I’m starting to covet those gorgeous little baskets he carries as well.

    Thanks to both you and Eric for collaborating in bringing us the best and most beautiful.

    And PS, if you haven’t been yet, Miznon is just ripe for you to photograph and post on those gorgeous roasted cauliflours!
    Bonne Anee

    • Querino de-Freitas

    What wonderful pottery…….i could live in a shop like that….we have not anything like that in the U.K. pity!! but the have that special quality,,,like their wardrobe,or cooking an extra something which is hard to define…….They have it…….thanks for the showing me such an eye-opener……Querino de-Freitas…….xxx

    • Michele H.

    Holy cats, those marbled blue plates…and the rabbits on their website. I hate it when I can actually feel self-control leaving my body. Nothing like shopping when you pay with a credit card, covering the total with one hand while signing with the other, so you don’t see the damage you just did to your bank account!.

    • Nicolette

    It is a grey day in N.Y.; expecting some snow but like you my various French pottery pieces surround me with warmth and an explosion of colors. Everyday I eat off my plates decorated with a shepherd tending his sheep on a hillside landscape and when I bake in my different casserole pieces I always think the food tastes better! This beautiful pottery feeds the soul as well as the tummy! Thank you for this wonderful blog….I think they would call you an enabler!! And there is ALWAYS room for one more piece de resistance.

    • Aimee

    Beautiful photos! I’m afraid I would break one if I bought a collection lol, but it’s nice to look from afar.
    xoxo Aimee

    • Joni

    Another wonderful! I look forward to them and I always learn something new. They make me want to jump on a plane to Paris!! Thanks

    • Anne

    Argh, this is like throwing chum to a shark! I want it all! Your timing couldn’t have been better as I’m flying to Paris friday evening from NYC. Though my bank account will not thank me, Tuile a loup is now added to my ever growing list and will be fighting for space in my luggage. Reading your blog is my lunchtime treat at work and a huge thank you for transporting me out of my cubicle a few days each week.

    • Matea

    Beautiful dishes! I could probably spend hours in that store! :)

    • Jennifer

    It all looks so beautiful! I will definitely be checking this place out. Merci!

    • Minna

    Absolutely gorgeous. We moved to the Bay Area in Cali about four years ago and I noticed that out here, everyone loves white plates or the simplest designs, like Heath Ceramics. Maybe better for showcasing California cuisine? But I love pops of color in my pottery, although I now own white dishes and serving bowls.

    • ClaireD

    I know this is a horribly politically incorrect question, but does the gentleman that runs this store speak English? I’m dying to go here when I return in May but my French is terrible.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Eric speaks perfect English and there’s no problem chatting with him in either language. He’s fluent in both.

    • Mike B

    My wife and I visited his shop on our first trip to Paris in October, 2013. We purchased a gratin, which ended up being our only “large” souvenir of the trip. I brought it home in my carry-on bag. We’re always afraid to use it for fear of breaking. But, we use it anyway. It’s especially impressive when loaded with a mound of aligot. The shop is truly a gem. And he speaks English, as I recall.

    • Millette

    Absolutely loved reading this post. Thank you!

    • Linda Danylyshyn

    Where can I purchase those wonderful slim table knives in the US. Or is there a web site for Couteau in English. My high school French isnt helpful in reading a French web site.

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    Linda: Check out my post: How to Find Items Mentioned on the Site for some tips, using the name of the knives (Nonton) to help. Eric does ship (and speaks excellent English), however you’ll need to factor in overseas shipping costs.

    • Connie A.

    I had no idea there was such a shop in Paris. Now I don’t have to go back to Provence after all! I’ve made a note of the address and just hope it is open in August. If not, I’ll have to stay longer.

    • Dan Thompson

    Bonjour, David,
    The store’s name: ‘The wolf’s tile’ in English?

    • Darina Allen

    Love, love, love, this pottery, Darina

    • Sharon

    Every piece pictured is gorgeous!

    • Natalie @ In Natalie’s Shoes

    Oh, how beautiful the pottery is! I don’t know how you were able to resist buying the store out! Definitely adding to my list of places to check out on my next Paris trip.

    • Jill Faber

    Our favorite shop in Paris! We have been buying from Eric for years and eating and drinking from these beautiful pieces make food and coffee taste better!
    They are works of art but every piece is used regularly and improve life. Eric ships and over the years never a break.

    • Amy Lillard

    Next time you come south plan some time in Uzès and then my former village of Saint Quentin la Poterie. 19 different potters (they prefer the term céramiste) all styles from traditional to very modern. It’s definitely worth the trip if you love ceramics!

    • Judy Wilson

    David, I have been a lurker for years. I am a potter and was in France (Paris and Provence) back in 2000. It was amazing. Some of my prized possessions are the pieces of pottery I bought in Paris and Provence. They are so beautiful. Thanks for sharing this with all of us. I look forward to every post! Judy

    • sean

    This is all very believable. Beautiful.

    • Moyra Elliott

    If you want the best earthenware in the South of France – find Jean-Nicolas Gerard. He makes wood-fired slip decorated earthenware, loose and casual and entirely original. He uses the French tradition of slip on wood-fired earthenware (Terre Vernissee) mixed with his love of colour derived from a birthplace in the Congo.
    He is in the village of Valensole, near Grasse.

    • Barbara Romeo

    Went there the week after I saw your write up and bought the cake plate and the baeckeoffe! Mentioned you to the owner.
    Thank you for letting me know of this beautiful shop.


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