January 2008 archives

A Lost Weekend

I’m a deadline for a project and am panicking about it.

So…being a world-class procrastinator—what did I do this weekend?

hosed

A. I scrubbed the hose of my showerhead.

Inside the Boar Sausage

B. I contemplated the safety of a wild boar sausage some Roman friends brought me. There were some mysterious things in there that I couldn’t cut through as well, but I’ll spare you that footage. So far I’ve eaten one-third of it and nothing’s happened to me.

Yet.

I Hate Soup

C. I realized that I really like to make soup.

But later remembered that I really don’t like eating it.

Continue Reading A Lost Weekend…

Skip This Post If You Don’t Live In France

Pierre!

You were, like, so robbed last night on Star Academy.

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You rock…and the people who voted you off are complètement nul

Ten Tips For Making Caramel

Ice Cream

Caramel Ice Cream

If you think making caramel is difficult, it isn’t. In fact, when you made your toast this morning, half-asleep, you caramelized something! Enjoying a cup of coffee made from freshly-roasted beans, baking a cake or a batch of oatmeal cookies, grilling tofu, and chugging a beer are some of the other benefits we gain from caramelization.

I’ll be doing an upcoming post on making the perfect caramel, and here are some tips that’ll help:

1. Caramel is very, very hot. And very sticky. Keep a deep bowl of water with lots of ice in it nearby if you’re a newbie: if some caramel lands on your hand, plunge it right into the ice water immediately. And wear an oven mitt just to be sure when handling hot pots.

2. Use a much larger pot than you think if your recipe calls to add liquid to the caramel, since it will certainly bubble up furiously. Don’t be afraid to use a Dutch oven.

3. Use the heaviest gauge metal pot you have. Inexpensive or thin cookware heats unevenly, so drag out the most solid pot you’ve got. I don’t recommend non-stick coatings since high-heat can damage them and may release undesirable compounds from the finish. And if you use copper, make sure it’s unlined copper, or is lined with something that will withstand the high heat of caramelized sugar. Tin-lined finishes can melt and it’s almost impossible to get them re-tinned in the US.

Continue Reading Ten Tips For Making Caramel…

Menu For Hope Winner Announced, and More…

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The results are in!

The winners of this year’s Menu For Hope IV fundraiser have been announced over at Chez Pim. Head over and see if your name is on the list…the long list…of winners.

(I didn’t win lunch at Arpege, but if the winner wants to take me, I can certainly free up some time and pencil it in on my calendar.)

This year, a whopping $91,118 was raised, and if you’re the lucky winner of the KitchenAid Mixer, Ice Cream Attachment, and signed copy of The Perfect Scoop (prize EU17), get in touch with me so I can arrange to get you your prize!

Radio Interviews

I’m going to be giving a couple of radio interviews this weekend. You can find out details on my Schedule page. Listen in!

Fun Links

Here’s a few things from around the web that I’ve enjoyed this week:

Why we will always love the French.

Can the $11,000 coffee maker brew up a decent cup of Folgers?

I give it a month. Tops.

No, that wasn’t me lying on the floor of that goth bar with an empty glass of absinthe in my hand…

Makes me want to go back to Istanbul.

Saddest note of the week.

Another American chocolate-maker emerges.

And a favorite American candymaker is back behind her stove.

Paris’ dirty secrets are open to the public. And the lines are huge!

Take your first nude swim in Paris…it’s on the house!
(Link rated PG-13)

Are adding spinach to brownies and avocado to chocolate pudding ideas worth (allegedly) copying?

A billion dollars is a whole lotta carrot-flavored chapstick.

Getting to the bottom of your mixer.

Finally—a game where there aren’t any losers.

…now that’s my kinda game!

Beaufort d’été

When I was in Méribel avoiding the steep slopes waiting in line at the cheese coopérative, I wasn’t alone: the joint was seeing more action than all those gasp-inducing ski runs.

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And just about every person ordered a nice hunk of Beaufort. And since they were in front of me in line, being France, of course each person had to have a 5 minute conference with the saleswoman about how to cut it, where they wanted it cut, exactly how much to lop off, if the other hunk on the shelf was better than the one they were getting, did they have another one in the back?…etc…etc…

The person in front of me scared me a bit when he requested a chunk that were as huge as a baseball mitt. It barely fit on the scale!

Naturally when it was my turn, it took me all of 1.3 seconds to tell her what I wanted and I ended up with a nice-sized piece as well—albeit of a more modest size—and could barely wait until I got home and dug into my chunk.

Continue Reading Beaufort d’été…

Monday Night Pizza

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Every other week I’m forced to leave my modest little apartment because my housecleaner comes. I split since it’s pretty small and there simply isn’t room for the two of us to co-exist. So I leave and let her do her thing, whatever it is.

Oddly, it seems to take her an inordinately long time to clean it. A neighbor once told me she said my apartment was “…very messy.” But I don’t think that’s the reason, since I’m not really messy at all. I’ve seen messy, and my apartment ain’t it. Perhaps she’s been pilfering my chocolate stash and when I leave, she slips into my bed, flips on the tv for an hour or so, and armed with a nice box of assorted chocolates on her lap, takes une petite pause.

During that time, although I usually begin with lofty plans to spend those few hours at a museum or do something cultural, invariably I end up at the movies. This afternoon I went to see Gone Baby Gone, which was particularly devastating and quite a difficult film. Paris is a great place to watch a movie: usually people take them seriously and no one talks. After the film, there were plenty of sniffles as the whole audience seemed to have been as moved by the film as I was. When I left, I walked by my apartment, noticed the lights still on, and decided to stop in the little café I like to frequent.

Continue Reading Monday Night Pizza…

Trop Mignon!

I don’t know about you, but I’m a bit ga-ga over anything miniature.

And when it’s miniature Paris pastries?
I can barely resist…

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These are super-tiny replicas of some of the desserts and pastries from Pierre Hermé. I love the little details…they are just too cute—trop mignons!

You can order them here, and there’s even a contest to win a set as well.

(Thanks to Carol over at Paris Breakfasts for tracking these down halfway around the world.)

Paris Airport Transfers: Charles de Gaulle/Roissy

Bastille Day in Paris

Here’s a list of the various ways for visitors to get to and from the city of Paris from Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), where a majority of international flights arrive and depart from.

The airport is undergoing a much-needed renovation, so give yourself a bit of extra time to catch public transit and find your way around once you’re dropped off. They’ve also added an extra security stop (passport control) before you can enter the satellites and duty-free shopping area, which you need to pass before you get to the gate area, lounges, and x-ray screening.

Even though they’ve made the airport a bit easier to navigate, it’s still confusing and things aren’t always where you might think they’d logically be. On my last trip, a group of us loaded with luggage followed the signs to the airport from the RER station—which led to a solid brick wall. Ouch!

Depending on traffic, the ride can take anywhere from a minimum of 30 minutes to 1 hour or more. Because schedules, fares, and hours of service change frequently, I suggest you check the website of the mode of transit you prefer for the most up-to-date information.



RER Train

The RER is fast and economical, and doesn’t depend on traffic patterns so even if you’re traveling during rush hour, it pretty much runs on schedule. The RER B line, the one to Charles de Gaulle Airport, travels through some dubious areas on the outskirts of Paris and I’ve heard third-hand reports of pickpockets and trouble, but haven’t experienced any of them firsthand. As always when traveling anywhere, be cautious, but not paranoid.

If you have a lot of luggage, schlepping through the underground métro and RER stations can be a big hassle, especially when the escalators and elevators aren’t functioning. If you do take the RER, when you arrive at the airport, you’ll need to hop on the tram (Terminal 1) or a shuttle (Terminal 2) to take you to whichever terminal you’re going to. Make a note of that before you get on so you’re not fumbling with paperwork during the scrum to get off the train.

The stations in Paris where the RER line B goes directly to the airport are: Gare du Nord, Châtelet/Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg. Some of these stations are very big and bustling so give yourself extra navigational time. Trains go every 15 minutes, from around 5am to 11:40pm and note the ‘B’ line splits, so make sure the sign on the platform says that the train is headed towards the airport before you hop on.

Frequent travelers might want to invest in a carnet aeroport of ten tickets, good for going to-and-from the airport. You get a discount for buying ten at once, and they don’t expire so you can use them on future trips. They can be purchased at the cashier’s desk, or in the machines, by scrolling past the single airport ticket option.

Website: Ratp.fr
(Click on country flag for other languages)

Roissybus

Takes 45 minutes to an hour, and leaves from the rue Scribe and rue Auber, just across from the American Express office. From Paris, if you take the métro, there’ll be signs in the station directing you where to go when you exit the train.

This is an inexpensive way to go at €9.40 and there are no staircases to contend with. Although unless you’re staying near the Opéra, you’ll have to take transit to get to the departure area in Paris, or vice versa. The other downside is that you’re traveling on surface roads and there may be traffic, especially at rush hour (although there are special lanes within Paris for buses.) Buses go every 15-20 minutes and run 5:45am until 11pm. There is a machine to buy tickets at the airport, or you can buy tickets from the driver.

Website: Roissybus

Air France Bus

These buses, called ‘les cars’ in France, depart from Charles De Gaulle every 30 minutes. Four various routes in Paris stop at Charles De Gaulle & Eacute;toile (Arc de Triomphe), Porte Maillot, Invalides, Gare de Lyon and Montparnasse. You can purchase tickets from the driver or the ticket booth in some instances.

The bus is inexpensive (around 15€) and relatively fast since they go on direct routes. They do travel on surface roads so travel time is subject to traffic.

Website: Les Cars Air France.

Noctilien Bus

If you arrive late at night, the Noctilien bus of Paris runs from 12:30am to 5am. You can get to the Châtelet, Gare de Lyon, Gare Montparnasse, Gare de l’Est and Gare St. Lazare using lines N120, N121, and N140.

Buses run every hour and the trip isn’t very rapid, so unless you’re really pinching centimes, my recommendation would be to spring for a taxi late at night.

Website: Noctilien

Semi-Private Shuttle

With these, you can pay in advance, online with a credit card, and you’ll be given a toll-free number to call which you do when you arrive at the airport. The operators and drivers usually speak English, but be sure to print out your confirmation with the number in case they don’t have it on record (which has happened to me.)

The best part of the shuttles are that they take you right to the front door of where you’re going. The downside is that you may end up cooling your heels at the airport waiting for others to arrive, or you may be the last to be dropped off in Paris, depending on where you’re going. The cost is usually close to 24€ for one person, with economical discounts for two or more. (You can tip the driver around 2€ if you wish.)

A few I’ve taken are Bluvan and Yellow Airport Shuttle. You can search for others online. One I’ve had particularly good luck with is Bee Shuttle which offers a “First Class” shared option, promising only two stops.

Taxi

You can get a taxi from the stand at the airport, although there can be a line waiting. In general, the fare to CDG is between 35-55€ and there’s a surcharge for each piece of luggage. Drivers will only take 3 people maximum unless they have a van.

From Paris, you can hail a cab although they’re technically not supposed to stop anywhere except at taxi stands, which are listed in your handy Guide d’Arrondissements. Since cabs can be scarce, especially in bad weather or during busy times, the hotel can call you a cab. Be aware that in Paris, the meter starts when the driver gets the call, so don’t be surprised to find a few euros on the tab when they show up. There is also a minimum charge in Paris. (You can scope out the cab stand near your hotel the night before, although see if it’s well-occupied which will give you an idea of availability the next day.)

Or better yet, get the phone number of a good driver you might have come across during your stay. Most drivers have mobile phones. A typical gratuity is 5%, or 10% for particularly excellent service.

You can also call G7 taxis direct or order one online. Their website has an English-speaking phone number and G7 also has over 100 wheelchair accessible taxis available (with advanced notice.)

Les Taxis Bleus has a bi-lingual website as well, and you can find more information here.

Private Driver

It’s possible to hire a private driver who’ll meet you as you exit customs. After a long overseas flight, it’s a nice luxury to have someone waiting for you with a sign with your name on it to take you right to your hotel or apartment.

Prices for drivers range from 75€-90€ per trip, although some apartment rental firms and hotels charge 4 or 5 times that for personalized service so it pays to check around. Since many drivers have their own vans, they can take more than 3 people and lots more luggage, which can mitigate the higher price. A typical gratuity is 5%, or slightly more—although it’s not required.



Note: Prices are subject to change and are noted just for informational purposes. Best to check the websites of the various operators for the most up-to-date information.



Links

General information about Official Roissy (Charles de Gaulle) Airport Transfer Information

Secrets of Paris Guide to Paris Airports

Top-rated Paris Travel and Dining Guides and Travel Necessities

Official RATP Website of Paris Transit (Multi-lingual)

Paris Trip Tips Transit Guide

10 Insanely Delicious Things You Shouldn’t Miss in Paris

More of my Paris Travel Tips