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I’m not gluten-free, but I am a bread-lover. (fyi: I also like boulangeries, too.) And am happy to come across any kind of bread packed with grains. But I don’t think all bread needs to have wheat in it. Other grains and starches – from buckwheat and rye, to cornmeal and rice flour – all make excellent breads, in the right hands.

Chambelland gluten free bread bakery in Paris

In addition to being The City of Light, Paris is also The City of Bread, yet another boulangerie has opened. But Chambelland is making breads without gluten. And the one I bought, riddled with seeds, was terrific.

Chambelland boulangerieChambelland boulangerie

The dense quarter-loaf was made with a combination of buckwheat and rice flours. The baker told me they’re milled in a dedicated moulin (mill) in the south of France. Because these kinds of flours don’t lend themselves to free-form loaves, the breads are baked in molds. And for those missing the traditional baguette, while you won’t find them here, the various breads offered are baked in slender molds, because everyone – even those avoiding gluten – deserves crust.

Chambelland boulangerie

I asked if they had plans to make croissants and other viennoiserie, and the baker replied that they were primarily a boulangerie, so they were focusing on the bread for now.

(Incidentally, the word boulangerie gets its name from the boules, or balls of dough, that bakers traditionally kneaded, shaped, and baked.)

Chambelland boulangerie

They are, however, making some lovely little pastries, such as lemon tartlets mounded with meringue – one of the best lemon tarts in Paris, gooey walnut tarts, and individual bittersweet chocolate cakes. I’m also mad for the housemade granola bars.

Chambelland boulangerie

Chouquettes, and almond and pistachio financiers are represented, as well as gâteau week-end, or simply, cake, other names for pound cake, in franglais.

Chambelland boulangerie

For those who want a bite to eat, the café serves an outstanding lunch, featuring their house-made bread, which you can enjoy at a table in the Parisian square, when the weather is cooperative.

Chambelland gluten free bread - paris bakery

Chambelland Boulangerie
14, rue Ternaux (11th)
Métro: Parmentier, Oberkampf

Open Tuesday to Saturday, 9am to 8pm, Sunday 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday.

UPDATE: In 2018, Chambelland published a book (in French) with many of their recipes in it, including the bread. The cookbook, Une Autre Idée du Pain is available at the bakery, independent bookstores, as well as on Amazon France.

Chambelland boulangerie

Related Links

Josey Baker’s gluten-free Adventure Bread recipe

Helmut Newcake (Gluten-free bakery and café)

Noglu (Gluten-free restaurant)

Adventure Bread (Gluten-free bread recipe)

Gluten-Free Brownies

Gluten-Free Eating and Dining in Paris

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33 comments

    • Ed Battle

    Question: how did you organize your book tour? I assume a professional events girl/guy at your publisher booked it months in advance–but how did you/they come up with the mix of stores, restaurants, and other venues? Previous success with a venue? Good relations with a local? I commented to you at the Montana Avenue (Santa Monica) signing that I was amazed by your energy in hitting so many places all over the country with all the plane rides and car trips in between. You averred that many years in a pastry kitchen was good preparation…

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Hi Ed: Book tours are normally arranged by publicists (although sometimes, the authors do it..) for publishers or they hire freelance publicists. The venues are selected based on a variety of things, including places that are interested in having an author come, like bookstores, restaurants, and culinary schools & shops, and often have a known record for hosting good events to maximize the time.

    • CoffeeGrounded

    I did some recipe testing involving gluten-free baked goods. I was amazed at how easy they were and how very tasty, too. Most were made with nut flours, dense in nutrient value and calories. Yet, oh so yummy!

    Sadly, gluten free items do not have a long shelf life, but I found that by slicing what I needed, and then freezing the rest, they held up well in the freezer….just don’t forget about them, and use within a reasonable time (my guess is, within three weeks, but I’m no scientist).

    Bread, I could sing praises all the live-long day, I could also become a rather, Large Marge… ;)

    • Lisa

    While I’m not GF I always appreciate a solid gluten free alternative to the breads and pastries we all know and adore. Any chance you’ve come across a decent gluten free pâte brisée in your travels?

    • amy

    Wow, this is a big deal for Paris! Those seedy loaves and wee green financiers do look divine. I’d be interested to hear what the locals think.

    • Angel Reyes

    I’m with you on this one. I love bread, and I love gluten (there it is, I’ve come out). But I still think there’s a place for other flours to make bread, cakes and other pastries. The more variety in our diets, the better the outcome (we consume more nutrients, we enjoy more flavors, and we have more fun).

    • J.S. @ Sun Diego Eats

    Even though I think the gluten free fad has gone a bit too far as only those that truly have gluten sensitivities will benefit from a gluten-free diet, I like how it has encouraged people to bake with alternative grains and with new/creative methods.

    Although some baked goods (especially those that need some chew) like the baguette will always be better gluten-full there are delicious pastries and breads that can be perfectly delicious gluten-free: the Tartine cookbooks have many examples of these!

    • babs

    Thank you so much for the recent posts regarding gluten-free bread and the additional links above. As a recently diagnosed celiac, the thought of traveling in Paris as gluten-free has seemed very challenging from a food perspective. No more croissants or brioche – amongst many other things? I really appreciate the recommendations for my next visit!

    • valerie

    Thank you for this recommendation, David! We are traveling to Paris this summer and one of our girls has a wheat allergy — not an easy thing to have when you’re traveling through the baguette capitol of the world. It’s so nice to have options. Love your blog!

    • janet harris

    Thanks for continuing the Q&A, David! We loved the 92nd St Y talk–but it was great to read all the questions/answers.

    • Cyndy

    David, can you place the boulangerie from Oberkampf metro station/blvd Richard Lenoir?

    • parisbreakfast

    Grainy bread is sooo hard to come by in this town.
    Usually all the grains are plastered on the outside and none inside…so frustrating.
    Must try this one for sure.
    Thanks carolg

    • Erica

    Do you think you could some day publish a recipe for a bread like the one pictured in your first photo?

    • Joyce

    David,

    I’m a celiac who also loves good food. I can’t always eat the food you write about, but I still love checking out your blog (just bought two of your books). Thanks for mentioning gluten free options. For many of us, GF is not a fad – just a fact of life. It’s always encouraging to read about delicious food that my kids and I can enjoy. Another reason to visit Paris!

    • Gluten-free Karen

    As a Celiac of 7 years, this article just about killed me. Guess I have to schedule a trip to Paris!

    • Kiki

    the first photo alone kills me – THIS is the kind of solid and God-sent bread I adore… We are just back from UK where in Totnes we had the first tastes of home-made, totally natural and seed-packed ‘compact’ bread loaves, heavy, tasty, and one slice gets you going for a long stretch of the day.
    a most wonderful post – gorgeous photos as ALWAYS – you’re a treat for us!
    thanks a lot – I just hope to be in that area on a day they are open…. I would fill my rucksack with a few kilos of them because they tend to keep super well in the freezer. Are the bakers also from a Tribe? The ones in Totnes came from the Taunton region and they look quite scary with all those beards and very long hair – but honestly, they could walk around naked as long as they sell their forbidden good-tasting food!

    • Estelle

    David, that bread looks awesome. I don’t like what I’m finding in gluten free breads. Most are tasteless.
    I too would love to have a recipe for a bread like the one pictured in this post.
    You’d be doing a lot of people a huge favor if you could find the time to experiment.

    As usual, love your posts.

    • Ellen A.

    Isn’t the bread depicted just a simpler version of Josey Baker’s nut bread (May 9, 2014)? That one is gluten free as well, and would be compact with just a bit fewer nuts and grains.

    • Katie

    Thank goodness for more GF options here for those of us with Celiac diaease and thank you for always checking them out. But why must all of the good bakeries be across the city? I’m dreaming of one on the west side of Paris… Anyone interested in starting a GF bakery over here?! ;)

    • François

    Hi,

    At Panifica, for gluten-free, we have a real bread 100% organic buckwheat (sarrazin), but on the other hand all our breads are made slowly with sourdough, which promotes taste, conservation and digestability. I’m always happy to share our views and bread experience gluten or no gluten.

    • Helena Spurr

    Yes it is great to know about boulangeries baking and selling gluten free bread but we need recipes to be able to bake at home.
    David would you be kind enough to one day publish one?
    Francois@Panifica – You say you are always happy to share your experiences. Well I would love to hear yours. :)

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I just published a gluten-free bread recipe two weeks ago – Adventure Bread – do give it a try!

      • François

      Ok David, here’s the recipe for our organic buckweat bread:

      1000g organic buckweat flour
      350g buckweat sourdough (150g flour; 150g water, 50g old sourdough, 3hrs ferment @ 25°C)
      800g water @ 40°C
      24g salt
      3g yeast

      Place in a well greased mould

      60mn rise @25°C
      Bake for 45 to 60mn at 240°C; after 30mn you may remove from the mould.

      Have fun and do share you experience on our Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/PanificaParis and even better come visit us!

    • Andrea

    Thank you for this write-up! I went this morning and enjoyed a browkie (part brownie part cookie). I brought some bread home to enjoy this evening too. I feel fortunate to live in the 11th with so many fantastic and nearby gf choices with Chambelland, Helmut Newcake and Thank You my Deer.

    • Cyndy

    @andrea, where is it, exactly? We lived across the street from the Richard Lenoir metro stop; going back this year. I wasn’t familiar with the street name, but we used to shop on Oberkampf a lot.

      • Andrea

      @cyndy, just off oberkampf as you are going up towards parmentier from boulevard richard lenoir. 14, rue Ternaux, right beside a toy store.

        • Cyndy

        Thanks so much, Andrea.

    • Dorota

    Just went there. Bought the nut tartelette and some chouquettes for my colleagues. They didn’t even notice the difference with chouquettes from across the street. It’s all really delicious !
    There’s another gluten free bakery / restaurant in the neighborhood : Thank you my deer http://thankyoumydeer.com/site/
    It’s also worth a try

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    Dorota: I like that café, too!

    • Britney

    Thank you tremendously for this post. I have allergies to wheat, soy, and eggs, so visiting places can be very difficult. I appreciate that you write nice things about gluten free baked goods, because so many have a bias going into to trying anything gluten free. It’s a shame. Can’t wait to try these next time I’m in Paris!

    • Susan

    David–
    First, it was such a pleasure meeting you at your 92nd St Y chat on your book tour! I’m loving the book and just don’t know what to make first – problems, problems!

    Second, I was literally diagnosed LAST WEEK with (as?) celiac, and have been so upset about things such as travel, because I love to visit food halls, markets, bakeries etc. So Paris was a place I was so sure I’d never be able to return to–so I thank you for writing about this boulangerie! That first photo makes me so happy (and hungry=have you seen the awful GF breads, or what passes for bread, in the US? Feh. And they literally charge about 8 dollars a loaf.) Now I can look forward to a trip to Paris!

    • Jennifer

    There was a comic recently who was just brutally criticized for a gluten-free biscuit joke online — perhaps this post could have saved him a bit? (Although, he is generally accurate…) Beautiful work.

    • Carole

    I enjoy reading about the gluten-free bread options, but am having lots of difficulty finding GF protein options. Have not seen gluten free cheese since Germany. Surely French coeliacs do not ALL have to become vegetarians?

A

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