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One of my favorite things to do in Paris is just wander around, often in neighborhoods that aren’t really known for anything special. There’s always something interesting to find; shops specializing in vintage hairbrushes and combs, or locksmiths for doors installed only during the reign of Napoléan III.

And of course, I’m usually on the lookout for food, and am especially keen when I come across a shop specializing in candymaking or chocolate. If I get lucky, I discover some little treasure, often in the most unlikeliest of places.

Le Furet Tanrade was opened in 1728, and it’s still one of the sweetest little chocolate shops I’ve found in Paris. Sure, their chocolates aren’t nearly as sleek or refined as their Left Bank counterparts, but I appreciated their handmade charm all the same. Especially the petits dark squares filled with a crisp morsel of mint fondant cloaked in brusque, dark chocolate. And the chocolates filled with caramel and feuilleté were certainly as delicious as those found in swankier boutiques.

One chocolate that piqued my curiosity was flavored with chanvre, a word I wasn’t familiar with. Although I’ve been previously familiar with the green leaf embedded atop the chocolate in my younger days, she offered a sample since she was having difficulty explaining exactly what was inside.

But then, in that little shop, I learned my Word-For-The-Day: the ganache was infused with hemp. So should you find yourself near the Gare du Nord or Gare d’Est, and need to pass a bit of time (or want try to get a bit of a buzz)…or if you just want to take a journey to a less-visited quartier of Paris, Le Furet Tanrade certainly makes a tasty stopping point.

Le Furet Tanrade
1, rue des Méssageries (10th)
Tél: 06 99 41 61 31
Métro: Poissonière

UPDATE: Le Furet Tanrade recently moved to a smaller location, on the rue des Méssageries. So some of the chocolate and items mentioned here may not be available while they are in the process of adapting to the new address.

For the latest on Le Furet Tanrade, and other pastry shops of Paris, check out my Paris Pastry Guide app, which is updated frequently and lists over 300 of the best Paris pastry and chocolate shops. The guide is also available for Kindle and as an e-book, compatible with Android and other devices at the Paris-Pastry website.


    • Barbara

    This gives new meaning to the phrase ‘chocolate high”!

    • David

    Barbara: I got a message from a nice young man in the US who was ‘experimenting’ making chocolates with le petard (which is another way of saying Mary Jane in French.) I declined, since if La Poste managed to get that delivery to me, I’m afraid it might be followed by a visit from Les Gendarmes!

    • barb

    ah, but david is it the ‘good stuff’ lol? most hemp oil here in the US positively states on the label that it’s THC-free.

    now i suppose this takes the magic brownie recipe up a notch.

    • Homesick Texan

    I bet that was Alice B. Toklas’s favorite chocolate shop!

    • Nan

    Have you been to Hervion Chocolatier in Vincennes? I don’t know if it’s okay or great, I was there with a Paris-born friend who assured me it was especially wonderful. I like chocolate but am just starting to learn. Thanks for your edifying posts!

    • Steve

    I think I wandered into this place once. I do not recall seeing chocolate there but they had some very interesting and slightly unusual confitures. I remember liking one that was named ‘Sous le Soleil,’ although I cannot quite recall what was in it. It had an extra something though (not hemp!).

    • Alisa

    I have been to this place a few times…did you read the clippings on the windows about the owner? He once staged a small rebellion in his shop window, sat there and refused to eat, or something like that. It has been about 2 years since I read it all. And although I have yet to try them, he makes savory éclairs, which have piqued my curiosity.

    • David

    That’s pretty odd…I’m not sure I believe you.

    A French person going on strike?

    • avital

    I positively like the way you talk about Paris…
    That you seem to know even better than us poor parisians lost in the “metro boulot dodo” routine…
    G. Bless U.

    • Alisa

    why would I lie? Wierd stories are ALWAYS true – who could make that stuff up? :)

    • Kyle

    First off, I’m currently reading your book ‘The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious – and Perplexing – City’ and it has me very excited to return to my favorite city :) Your anecdotes and keen perception of the Parisian way of life are humorous, but spot on. So, great job! I might even get brave enough to try a recipe or two.

    My question concerns chocolatier’s and/or patisseries in Paris. I am an Assistant-Director for my university’s Paris programs we bring to Paris in July and I am searching for a unique activity to do with the students to replace the ballet that we were not able to secure reasonably priced tickets to. Have you ever heard of a chocolatier or patisserie giving tours? I’m sure this is a very un-Parisian-like thing to do, but it was worth checking into as I’m sure it’d be a memorable and unique experience for the students.



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