David Lebovitz
circle  Home My Books Bio Chocolate Tours My Paris Schedule Recipes Links
corner Circle     corner
 
Search My Blog:

 

 

The Perfect Scoop

 

Tours
Click Here For Exciting Information About Upcoming Chocolate and Culinary Tours

 


Visit the Travel Blogs Ad Network and the Food Blog Ad Network to advertise here.

 

Categories...

 

 

Add me to your RSS:




 

Room For Dessert

 

  
  
Read My FAQs

 

Ripe For Dessert

 

Visit David's Flickr Page
www.flickr.com
This is a Flickr badge showing public photos from daveleb. Make your own badge here.

 

Archives
April 2008
March 2008
February 2008
January 2008
December 2007
November 2007
October 2007
September 2007
August 2007
July 2007
June 2007
May 2007
April 2007
March 2007
February 2007
January 2007
December 2006
November 2006
October 2006
September 2006
August 2006
July 2006
June 2006
May 2006
April 2006
March 2006
February 2006
January 2006
December 2005
November 2005
October 2005
September 2005
August 2005
July 2005
June 2005
May 2005
April 2005

 

Best Chef's Food Blog 2006
"Best Chef's Food Blog 2006"

 

The Independent
"The best food blog in the world"

 

The Wall Street Journal
"Blog Watch 2006"

 

About
"Top Ten Food Blogs" by About.com

 

WellFed.com Best City Food Blog
"Best City Food Blog 2005"

 

« Treats From 'My Island'
Main
The Goofus and Gallant of Chocolate »

Chocolate Tasting With Jacques Genin
line

May 9, 2006

I began our week-long Paris Chocolate Exploration tour here in Paris this week, starting with a private tasting with famed chocolatierJacques Genin, the elusive chocolatier who works out of his very small laboratoire hidden away in the 15th arrondisement. Ten of us, including Mort Rosenblum, crammed into his tiny workshop while he explained how he began his career, the methods he uses to fabricate and enrobe his chocolates, and divluged some of the secrets (I said some...) of his exceptional chocolates.

For well over an hour, we tasted everything from ganache-filled chocolates infused with exotic tonka beans, lively peppermint leaves, and fragrant (and expensive) Bulgarian rose oil. There were soft pâte de fruit made with elusive Charontais melon, fresh black currants, and fruity raspberry. All the while his staff worked around us, packing boxes of chocolates destined for the finest hotels and restaurants in Paris, including the George V and Le Comptoir. Some were destined for Chez David as well.


mintchocolate.jpg

Chocolates Infused with Fresh Mint Leaves


The best, unquestionably, were his caramels. No pun intended, but I really have a soft spot for caramel. Caramel is a combination of cooked sugar, usually with butter or cream added. But much skill is needed to get it just-so. The sugar needs to be cooked to the exact temperature. Enough so it's got a bit of a burnt 'edge' to offset the sweetness, and to give it a texture so it retains its shape with remaining toothsome but not tar-like and gummy. Jacques caramels were truly brilliant.
Each nugget was the perfect combination of sticky-soft and intensely flavored.

The first one we tasted was a bright-yellow caramel sharpened with tangy mango puree. We followed that with dark bitter chocolate caramels, oozing with the taste of buerre fermier, aka French farmhouse butter. When I'd reached my limit, which is admittedly high, Jacques stuffed my pockets with salted-butter caramels, which I ate this morning just after breakfast.
Is that wrong?


coffeecard.jpg

Cardamom and Coffee Chocolates


jacquesgenin.jpg

Jacques Genin and his chocolates...coming to a city near you?
Maybe...


Jacques Genin
18 rue St-Charles
Tel: 01 45 77 29 01
Not open to the public, but may sell chocolates if you stop by and get lucky. Advisable to call first.

Pain de Sucre
14 rue Rambuteau
Tel: 01 45 74 68 92
Sells Jacques Genin chocolates.

Update: I recently was in there (11/07) and found Pain de Sucre no longer carries Jacques Genin's chocolates and at present, there's no other outlets where they're sold in Paris that I know of.

Permalink

Comments
line

So, Chez David is a new hotel or restaurant? ! :)

Posted by Alisa at May 9, 2006 3:43 AM

I don't think anything wrong with eating chocolate after breakfast, I eat them for breakfast :) Tried pain de sucre but didn't get those, what a shame...

Posted by keiko at May 9, 2006 4:19 AM

Doesn't everyone eat chocolate for breakfast? The chocolates look devine and I'm just wondering whether the chap in the photo is smuggling a few chocs into his pocket?

Posted by Sezz at May 9, 2006 4:23 AM

seems like an instructive visit at a first class artisan.
thanks.

Posted by Eyal at May 9, 2006 9:39 AM

Before breakfast is OK too..These are little works of art. I love the sculptured effect on those Cardamom Chocolates.Unique.

Posted by Carolg@PB at May 9, 2006 11:26 AM

I guess I can't call myself a true chocoholic until I've done this tour, eh?

I suppose I could combine this with a quick trip to Belgium to enjoy a waffle w/ chocolate poured on top.

Ahh... memories!

Posted by Warren at May 9, 2006 11:37 AM

Oh I am beyond jealous!!! Looks fantastic!

~Dianka
http://na-zdravi.blogspot.com/

Posted by Dianka at May 9, 2006 12:32 PM

I really like Mort Rosemblum's book! Am very jealous that you got to visit his laboratoire and stuff your face with chocolates!

Posted by Anita at May 9, 2006 2:32 PM

Is there anyway we could get these chocolates in the states or anything like them?

Posted by Justin at May 9, 2006 3:33 PM

Do you have the best life EVER? Do you?!

Yes, yes you do. Oh, if only someone would stuff me to my limit with dark chocolate and salted caramels! But I shall live vicariously through you. Eat away.

Posted by Jennifer at May 9, 2006 5:55 PM

chocolates after breakfast are NEVER wrong. chocolates FOR breakfast are never wrong either. :)

Posted by barbie2be at May 9, 2006 8:29 PM

What I would give for a salted caramel made with French butter! The postal system stinks in France, so I couldn't get some nice chef who lives and blogs there to send me some and airfare is too expensive.

Once you've had sea salt caramels, you're spoiled for plain old Brach's that's been sitting in that supermarket bin for who knows how long.

Posted by Jeff at May 9, 2006 8:46 PM

Uh, yeah, one more thing. Pain de Sucre wouldn't happen to have a website, would it? French is not my thing and the only "Pain de Sucre" I could find features two very scantily-clad women on the homepage. http://www.paindesucre.com/

Perhaps, in France, bikinis and choclates go together?

Posted by Jeff at May 9, 2006 8:52 PM

I can't believe how gorgeous those all are! And, am I insane or are those leopard spots on the chocolates above the peppermint ones?

Posted by katie at May 10, 2006 12:42 AM

Oh, I am so jealous! Both the cardamom-coffee and chocolate infused with mint leaves sound divine! I know you probably already know, but you have a fabulous job :-)

Posted by Tanvi at May 10, 2006 1:18 AM

Chocolate at breakfast wrong? You had it for medicinal reasons, right?

Even the BMJ is saying dark chocolate (100gm a day?) is GOOD for your health. Of course they are only copying the old guys, who knew that.

I thought you might like some historic justification, so here is a medicinal chocolate remedy from 1672 (when chocolate was a drink, not a solid confection). It is from:


The American physitian, or, A treatise of the roots, plants, trees, shrubs, fruit, herbs, &c. growing in the English plantations in America describing the place, time, names, kindes, temperature, vertues and uses of them, either for diet, physick, &c. : whereunto is added a discourse of the cacao-nut-tree and the use of its fruit, with all the ways of making of chocolate ... (1672) by W. Hughes.


After describing how to prepare the “Cacaos”, he tells how the Spanish Physitians” adapt the powder to treat a range of different conditions.

"To strengthen the Stomack much debilitated, there is put in Achitote, or rather Saffron; in Fluxes, Cinamon, Nutmegs, or a little Steel-powder: for Coughs, Almonds, and the Oyl of Almonds, Sugar, or Sugar candide: for a Phlegmatic Stomack, they put in Pepper, Cloves, &c. And thus the Spanish Physitians especially endeavour to make a Composition, or alter their Chocolate according to evey distemper, making it both the Physick and Vehicle for all sorts which ought rather but to be used as Aliment."

So - was your excuse a Stomach that needed strengthening, or a Phlegmatic stomach?

Posted by The Old Foodie at May 10, 2006 6:25 AM

Thanks for recommending Mort Rosenblum's book--I'm in the middle of reading it. Wonderful writing, and extremely informative and drool-worthy (as was your post).

Posted by mary g at May 10, 2006 9:46 AM

There is NEVER a wrong time to eat caramels or chocolate.

I too am jealous beyond belief at the generosity of your chocolate friends. I adore the leopard chocolates (even without ever having tasted them)!

Posted by Grommie at May 11, 2006 7:46 PM

what a perfect match for your shirt.

Posted by sam at May 15, 2006 3:32 PM

« Treats From 'My Island'
Main
The Goofus and Gallant of Chocolate »

David's Amazon Store

 

David Lebovitz
Photo courtesy of
Christopher Hirsheimer

 

BlogHer Ad Network
More from BlogHer
Advertise here
BlogHer Privacy Policy

 

The Great Book of Chocolate

 

 

  
Subscribe to Receive Periodic Email Updates from David
enter your email address
   subscribe
   unsubscribe
 
  

 

 

 

 
Corner       corner
     

homemy booksbiochocolate toursmy parisschedulerecipeslinks

© 1999 - 2008 David Lebovitz, All Rights Reserved