Here’s my address book for the most popular and some favorite places for ice cream in Paris. I update the list from time to time, and for the most up-to-date information, check out my Paris Pastry app, which lists over 300 of my favorite places in the city for ice cream, chocolate, pastries, and hot chocolate.
In addition to these glaciers, some of the pâtisseries make their own exceptionally-good ice cream which they’ll scoop up from freezers parked on the sidewalks outside during the summer. Some of the best include Kayser, La Maison du Chocolat, and A La Mère de Famille.
Many of the places keep curious hours, some of which I’ve noted. Most don’t open until mid-morning, and one, Deliziefollie, simply closed for the winter while Berthillon closes mid-July for the summer. I’ve listed phone numbers so you can call in advance.
Little needs to be said about Berthillion that hasn’t already been said. This most-famous of all Parisian glaciers makes what many consider the best ice cream in the world. Go see for yourself! I was a fan of their glace chocolat until I saw the light and switched to the chocolat amer sorbet, which has the deep intensity of chocolate but without the distraction of cream. Their Caramel Ice Cream is excellent, but I think the Caramel-Buerre-Salé doesn’t measure up to it. The fruit sorbets are excellent and the one made with tiny wild strawberries, fraises des bois, is worth the supplement.
Berthillon is served at many cafés in Paris, and other locations near the original also scoop it up, which is helpful when they’re closed. Beware of other storefronts nearby which some people confusing think serve glace Berthillon as well. (They’ll always display a Berthillon logo if they do.)
31, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile (4th)
Tél: 01 43 54 31 61
Métro: Pont Marie or Sully-Morland
(Closed Mondays and Tuesdays, the second half of July and all of August.)
Popular with tourists and locals, Amorino does quite the business, making delicate ‘flowers’ of gelato on cones. Interesting flavors include Bacio, the Italian-style ‘kiss’ of hazelnuts and chocolate and Amarena, candied sour cherries embedded in vanilla custard. Those of you who are lactose-intolerant can find digestive comfort in Amoriso which they say is made with rice and rice milk. Twelve boutiques in Paris.
31, rue Vieille du Temple (4th)
Tél: 01 42 78 07 75
Métro: St. Paul or Hôtel de Ville
More often than not, you’ll find me at Pozzetto, waiting from my scoop of sticky gelato in a cone being handed through the window to me.
While folks line-up a couple of blocks away at Amorino, for my money, Pozzetto is where it’s happening…it’s simply the best gelato in Paris. The pistachio gelato is made from bright-green Sicilian Bronte pistachios and the gianduja has the smoky-nuttiness of roasted Torinese hazelnuts. You can also get a real 22-second Italian espresso here too.
And yes, I counted.
39, rue de Roi de Sicile (4th)
M: St. Paul or Hôtel de Ville
21, rue de Lévis (17th)
Readers of The Perfect Scoop are familiar with my abundant fondness for Raimo (page 133.) I go for the décor, which is retro-modern—think lots of chrome, stainless-steel and leather. But aside from the fabulous design, the just-churned glaces are popular here, especially the fruit-based ice creams of summer, flavored with peaches, nectarines and melon. My favorite is fleur de lait, an icy-cold boule of light frozen cream. Worth making the journey to this neighborhood a little trip from the center of Paris.
(UPDATE: The original Raimo recently remodeled and the interior is no longer ‘vintage’. It’s still a fun place to go, but I prefer the take-out window instead, which they’ve installed next door.)
59-61, Boulevard de Reuilly
Tél: 01 43 43 70 17
17, rue des Archives
Le Bac à Glaces
Tucked away behind Le Bon Marché is Le Bac à Glaces, an unassuming glacier that boasts all-natural ice creams. You’ll never know what flavors you’ll find: I’ve seen avocado, mango, fig and blackberry. In many you’ll find little bits of fruit.
Le Bac à Glaces
109, rue de Bac
Tél: 01 45 48 87 65
This tiny shop sells gelato made on the premises. Since the owner’s from Torino, most of the ice creams are heavy on the chocolates (there’s 4 different types of chocolate made from various ‘crus’ like Manjari) and well as gianduja. But there’s also other flavors like Raspberry, Cassis (black currant), Coffee, Caramel with Salted Butter, Peanut Butter & Jelly, Pistachio, and a selection of sorbetti, which included on my last visit, lemon and watermelon. Worth a visit!
47, rue des Martyrs
Métro: Notre Dame de Lorette or St. Georges
(UPDATE: Carmella is now closed.)
A few other places:
If you don’t know Grom, from Italy, you should. Read about my Grom visit.
7, rue Montorgueil (1st)
Tél: 01 40 26 06 00
Métro: Les Halles
31, avenue de Saint-Ouen (17th)
Tél: 01 45 22 91 65
Métro: La Fourche
39, rue Cler (7th)
Tél: 01 45 51 25 30
Métro: La Tour Maubourg or Ecole Militaire
De Toffol Bénito
45, Rue Mouffetard (5th)
Tél: 01 43 37 88 07
1, rue Charles-François Dupuis (3rd)
Métro: République, Temple, or Filles du Calvaire
A newcomer on the scene, serving authentic Italian gelato. Opening hours vary. UPDATE: Mary is now closed.
Can’t Make It To Paris?…Churn it up at home!