Recipe Links

Cookies and Candies

Lemon-Glazed Madeleines

Chez Panisse Gingersnaps

Friendship Bars

Candied Peanuts

Butterscotch Pecan Cookies Cups

Chewy Oatmeal Raisin Cookies (low fat)

Seaweed Cookies

Dulce de Leche Brownies

Very Chocolate Cookies

Chocolate-Almond Buttercrunch Toffee

French Chocolate Macarons

Caramel Corn

Mesquite Chocolate Chip Cookies (from Heidi Swanson)

Coconut-Chocolate Macaroons

Supernatural Brownies

Candied Cherries

Pralined Almonds

Giovanna’s Maple Creams

Pineapple Coconut Cookies

Chocolate Biscotti Recipe & Marshmallows Recipe

Pain d’amande

Chocolate-Covered Caramelized Matzoh Crunch

Cakes

Devil’s Food Cake

Banana Bread

Gateaux aux kakis/Persimmon Cake (en français)

Carrot Cake, French-Style

Chocolate Idiot Cake

Banana Loaf Cake

Absinthe Cake

Individual Chocolate Cakes

Kugelhof

Kouign Amann: Breton Butter Cake

Chocolate Orbit Cake with Crème Anglaise

Sour Cream Cheesecake

German Chocolate Cake

Banana-Chocolate Chip Upside Down Cake

Chocolate Cherry Fruitcake & Christmas Cake

Chocolate Soufflé Cake

Almond Cake

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Ring

Fruit Desserts

Polenta Crisp Topping

Red Wine-Poached Rhubarb

Baked Nectarines and Cherries

Tropical Fruit Soup

Persimmon Bread

Quick-Candied Cherries

Strawberry Granita

Apricot, Cherry, and Frangipane Tart

Summer Pudding

Warm Fig and Raspberry Tart with Marsala Sabayon

Baked Apples with Fresh Ginger, Dates, Almonds and Rum

Apricot Soufflés

Berry Cobbler

Warm Compote of Summer Fruits

Orange and Cardamom Upside Down Cake

Ice Cream and Custards

Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream

Easy Chocolate Ice Cream

Plum Kernel Ice Cream

Chocolate Mousse

Goat Cheese Custards with Strawberries in Red Wine Syrup

Espresso Granita Affogato

Chocolate Ice Cream (agave-sweetened)

Pistachio Ice Cream (Gelato di pistacchio)

Candied Bacon Ice Cream

White Chocolate Sorbet

Strawberry Frozen Yogurt

Blood Orange Sorbet

White Chocolate & Fresh Ginger Ice Cream

Roquefort Honey Ice Cream

Butterscotch Pudding

Panna Cotta

Mocha Flan

Vanilla Ice Cream

Tarts
Chez Panisse Almond Tart

Savory Dishes

Rosemary, Sage, Garlic and Sea Salt Rub

Vietnamese Caramelized Pork Ribs

Marinated Feta with Herbs in Olive Oil

Salmon Rillettes

Homemade Kosher Dill Pickles

Korean Pancake (Pa Jeon)

Spreadable Tuna Mousse

Summer Tomato Salad

Carnitas

Kig Ha Farz: Breton Buckwheat Dumplings

Haricots Tarbais: French White Beans

Duck With Prunes in Red Wine

Moroccan Preserved Lemons

Spicy Pretzel and Nut Mix

Lamb Tagine

French Green Lentil Salad

Cocoa Nib and Spiced Lamb Sausage pizza

Sui Mai: Chinese Pork and Shrimp Dumplings

Chocolate Mole

Zuni’s Pickled Red Onions

Fresh Shelling Bean Salad

Confit of Tomatoes

Panzanella; Tomato and Bread Salad

Marion Cunningham’s Raised Waffles

Aunt Millie’s Famous Kugel

Cosmopolitans & Nibbles

Fig and Black Olive Tapenade

Olympic Seoul Chicken

Kimchi and Kimchi II

Extras

Spicy Glazed Nut Mix

Elderberry Syrup

Buckwheat Crepes

Seville Orange Marmalade

No-Knead Bread

Shallot, Beer, Prune, and Cocoa Nib Jam

Homemade Cottage Cheese

Chouquettes

Bicerin

The Best Chocolate Sauce

Parisian Hot Chocolate: Chocolat Chaud

Dulce de Leche, Confiture de Lait

Vanilla-Poached Quince

Cherry Jam

Pâte à Choux: cream puffs

Wittamer Hot Chocolate

Making Caramel

Moroccan Preserved Lemons

Although it’s possible to buy citrons confits at Arab markets here in Paris, making Moroccan Preserved Lemons couldn’t be easier and they taste far fresher than anything you can buy. I insist on foraging through the mounds of lemons at my market in pursuit of the smallest citrus possible (which I don’t recommend doing here, by the way, unless you know the vendor pretty well.)

But you may be lucky to have a friend with a lemon tree and they’re probably more than happy to let you take a few off their hands… although none of my friends in Paris seem to have lemon trees growing in their apartments, unfortunately. And if you live where Improved Meyer Lemons are available, by all means feel free to use them instead of the more common Eureka lemons.

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I like to finely dice preserved lemons and mix them with sautéed vegetables, such as green beans, fava beans, or to elevate lowly rounds of carrots into something interesting and exotic, perhaps tossing in a few cumin seeds as well. They’re also good mashed into butter with some fresh herbs, then smeared on top of grilled fish or a nice hunk of caramelized roasted winter squash. And I’ve been known to sneak some into a batch of tapenade, as well as adding some finely-chopped little pieces to a batch of lemon ice cream too!

In addition to their ability to multi-task, there’s something comfortable and nice about having a jar of vivid lemons on the kitchen counter to keep tabs on their progess every morning, like a flowering Amaryllis bulb or a family of Sea Monkeys coming to life. I’m keeping a vigilant eye on my lemons daily, noticing how much juice they’re giving off, how soft they’re getting, and enjoying how they gently deflate and nestle themselves against each other as they settle nicely into the corners of my vintage glass canning jar (which I barely rescued from the clutches of some madame at a flea market last summer.)

Continue Reading Moroccan Preserved Lemons…

Something I Miss About San Francisco

One of my friends from San Francisco sent me the local paper the other day, which was dated just before the last election.

In my district, there was an election for Supervisor, the person who would represent my district in City Hall.

This year there were three candidates vying for that position.
Each was profiled and interviewed:

The first was Bevan Dufty, the current Supervisor, who describes himself as “addressing neighborhood concerns and successfully shepherding projects” that were helpful to the neighborhood, including renovating the local library and upgrading accessibility on the city-wide transit system.

The second candidate was Alix Rosenthal, who was the President of the San Francisco Elections Commission and vowed to vigilantly fight the problems plaguing the city at their root cause, including protecting neighborhood schools from closure and pledging to work tirelessly for inclusionary housing.

The third candidate described his qualifications for public service as “bisexual and vegetarian.” His current occupations are “escort, masseur, and exotic dancer” and he vows to repeal leash-laws and deter violent crime by “letting people carry handguns for self-defense.”
An effective Supervisor he said, should “throw fun, free office parties” as well as dress in drag occasionally, and “take the right kinds of drugs.”

His name is Starchild.

I wonder who won?

Yoga Classes In Paris

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(Please note that this list was recently updated in 2013. However prices, addresses, and policies are subject to change. You may wish to visit the website or call the school for additional information.)

If you feel the need to work off that croissant au beurre you’re likely to indulge in every morning or the daily éclair au chocolat you’ve been treating yourself to each afternoon, for visitors to Paris that practice yoga, there’s plenty of places scattered about the city with classes all day long so you can downward-dog all that buttery richness away.

You’ll find most of the yoga studios in Paris tucked away in old courtyards while others are sleek and modern. In my experience, you’re less-likely to find a ‘power yoga’-style class which feels like a heavy-duty workout in Paris as you’ll find in many US cities, but it probably best not to overexert yourself too much…after all, you’re on vacation!

Most yoga classes in Paris are Vinyasa or Ashtanga-style, with lots of variations. Of course, classes are in French (although some schools do have English-language classes), but more teachers speak some English and if you regularly practice yoga, you should be able to follow along.

Here’s a list of a several studios that are centrally located, with some notes about their classes and styles. Most studios require regular students to pay a cotisation annuelle, an annual fee, although they waive it for short-term visitors. Please note that class prices are the current rates, and you should check the individual studios web sites for updates. If you like to have water handy, it’s best to bring a small bottle along with you.

Most yoga studios in Paris don’t offer showers or towels. Expect to pay more than you would for an individual class in the US, although most places offers series of multiple classes, which is worthwhile if you plan to be in town for a while. Mats are available, but changing rooms in most of the places are non-existent, so be prepare to ‘see-and-be-seen’ (and believe me, I’ve seen everything)—so don’t be shy!

Continue Reading Yoga Classes In Paris…

Happy Birthday!

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C’est mon anniversaire!



No-Knead Bread Recipe

Since the year is just about over, I thought I’d better conclude my thoughts and shares my notes on the now-infamous No-Knead Bread that swept around the world with such force and bravado that I starting calling it ‘The Nail In The Lo-Carb Coffin’.

Although I don’t really keep up on the various diets du jour, when the No-Knead Bread starting flaring up on blogs and web sites worldwide, it seemed that once again another fad diet had delightfully gone bust. And I didn’t want the year to end without letting you know how my final loaf actually turned out…

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So for the past few weeks, everyone out there seemed to be having the time of there life stirring up batches of carb-rich, yeasty dough, and baking the soft mounds to crunchy perfection in their brand-new Le Creuset pans. While I’ll admit there’s nothing like the thrill of pulling a puffy loaf from the blistering-hot oven and tipping the loaf onto a cooling rack, or the thrill of buying a new piece of Le Creuset, I discovered the bread has one fatal flaw:

It tastes like nothing.

In fact, it was so flavorless that I could barely eat it.
To get to the point where I had an edible-looking loaf, though, I’d spent weeks roaming through Parisian health food stores learning about French flours, quizzing experts and friends, making metric conversions, and immersing myself in all the interesting, and mostly kind comments that many of you left at my original post. I stirred & scraped, slapped & tapped, and dusted & draped, all in an effort to pull the best, tastiest, most bakery-perfect looking loaf of bread I’d ever imagined proudly out of my humble little home oven.

That’s what I had anticipated.

Continue Reading No-Knead Bread Recipe…

Marion Cunningham

I was an incredibly fortunate young man when I was starting our as a cook way back in the early 80’s. At that time, there were few celebrity chefs, there were no television networks entirely devoted to cooking. And the glossy food magazines had articles by people like Richard Olney and Paula Wolfert, instead of following Bobby Flay around Manhattan looking for babes and BBQ.

Our culinary heroes back them were people who actually wrote their own books and cooked because it was their passion. Working at Chez Panisse, I was extremely fortunate to meet a lot of those people in person, including Jane Grigson, MFK Fisher, Maida Heatter, Julie Child, James Beard, and the aforementioned Richard Olney. Most of them are now gone, but there’s one person who is the last of the great, classic American cooks around: Marion Cunningham.

Our first interaction was when she came barreling in from the dining room, racing through the kitchen of Chez Panisse with her grey ponytail bobbing behind her, looking for the person who’d make …”that divine Butterscotch Ice Cream.” Fortunately that person was me, and for the next 15 years or so, I could reasonably be accused of bribing Marion whenever she came in with anything involving caramelized sugar; from salty Caramel Ice Cream (we both like it far before it was fashionable), to classic American Lemon Meringue Pie with an extra-deeply broiled topping I’d make just for her.

She loved them all.

But Marion was not a sugary-sweet person, in spite of her deep love for the stuff.

Continue Reading Marion Cunningham…

What Do You Do With A Drunken (French) Sailor?

There’s a style of writing, called “The Confessional”, where the writer talks about their personal life, often in great detail. Sometimes the stories may include spouses or partners. Other times, there might be scenes of intimate family gatherings. Or in extreme instances, they could involve, say, drunken French sailors. And on a less-titillating note, cats for some reason frequently show up as well.

I don’t write like that for several reasons: a) Because I don’t have a cat, b) Because my apartment is too small for anything very exciting to happen, and c) I’m a good boy.

(That is, unless you count that weekend when I first moved here and a friend shared the secret for having beaucoup de relations internationaux.)

Oh-la-la! C’est magnifiq…

Oops. Sorry. I digress…

So I’m ready to admit who I’m sharing my apartment with right now. I thought the time was right to let you all in on it, since it’s gotten to the point where I can no longer contain myself.

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I’ve had this big, hairy hunk lying around my apartment for the past few weeks, and let me tell you, this is the best piece of meat I’ve ever had around here.

Jamón Ibérico is the most delicious ham in the world, cured from black-footed pigs which forage around the forests in Spain, snorting up wild acorns, which gives the meat has a distinctly nutty, earthy, yet robust flavor. The ham needs to be hand sliced, and ultra-thin, s’il vous plait, which is rather difficult since the meat is moist and for some reason (which I don’t remember from high-school biology) the pig leg has a bunch of wavy bones and joints that curve in more directions than a French driver does navigating around the Arc de Triomphe.

Continue Reading What Do You Do With A Drunken (French) Sailor?…