10 top tips for visiting Cassis
Hello, Emily here, sharing my top tips for a visit to the Provençal village of Cassis, whose motto is “Qu a vist Paris, se noun a vist Cassis, n’a rèn vist” (“Who has seen Paris and not Cassis, has not seen anything”).
I definitely recommend adding it to your list of places to visit in France.
It’s hard to overstate how seriously the French take their holidays. Parents stay up until midnight to book ski-train tickets the moment they go on sale, summer houses are booked a year in advance and competition for days off in August, peak summer season, is fierce. There’s even a specific French expression faire le pont which means “to make the bridge”, and refers to booking a day or two off when a public holiday falls on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday, to take advantage of an extra long weekend.
Being a last-minute person myself I struggled to picture what I would be doing in a few weeks, let alone a few months, until someone explained the secret to me: they book ahead not only to beat everyone else to the best deal, but to have something to look forward to. Planning a summer holiday provides a glimpse of what lies ahead, to help get through the gray repetition of winter, and planning to relax takes the edge off the inevitable stress of everyday life.
And they were right. Last year, for the first time, I booked our summer break months in advance and I relished the fact that as 2021 began to strongly resemble 2020, and work stress built up (but not with you David!), I had my own little daydream, ready to lift my spirits whenever I needed. As I dashed to pick up the kids, and the perpetual feeling of always rushing and still being late seeped into every day, I knew that at some point in the future we would have time together with nothing to do and nowhere to be, free to count endless pebbles on a quiet beach.
We decided on Cassis for our trip as it fulfilled our main criteria: Easily accessible by train, plenty of sunshine, child friendly beaches and no need for a car (so we didn’t have to deal with haphazard French parking). After three and a half hours on the TGV (the French high speed train) we arrived at Marseille Saint-Charles train station, navigated our way through the summer holiday travel chaos, and met our pre-arranged taxi for the 45 minute transfer to Cassis. (There is also a local train connection which takes 22 minutes.) We booked an Airbnb rather than a hotel because we needed a kitchen and a washing machine, which conveniently doubled up as in-house entertainment.
After a quick look on a map to get my bearings I chose a place on the edge of the port, halfway between a small supermarket and a suitable beach, and easy to reach while pushing a stroller loaded up with groceries and tired children. On the day we arrived we were taken by surprise as a loud broadcast rang out over the port at dusk, announcing an elaborate fireworks display set to the dulcet tunes of Daft Punk, which was a nice welcome to town. We soon learned that there was live music every evening in the area, which gives a great holiday atmosphere but can go late into the night, so bear that in mind if you’re a light sleeper like my husband.
If you want to stay somewhere a little quieter, there are some stunning houses for rent up the hill by Les Roches Plates de la Presqu’ile, a popular area for sunbathing, and I have the plush Hôtel Les Roches Blanches bookmarked for a kid-free visit in the future (no washing machines there). The Château de Cassis, which sits up high overlooking the port, and is beautifully lit up in the evenings, also has a selection of charming suites available.
Our family was unprepared for how beautiful Cassis and the surrounding natural park was, and I can’t wait to return to explore more hidden coves, and sunbathe on the flat warm rocks that dot the coastline on our next trip.
Right now we’re in the middle of winter in France and summer feels very far away, so if you want to plan something to look forward to (and beat those Parisians to the punch), or just fancy daydreaming about a week in the South of France, my top Cassis recommendations are below.
– Emily
Bestouan Beach
Tucked away about a 5 minute walk from town, this pebbled beach is best visited in the morning before it gets too crowded. We laid out on towels spread over the hot pebbles, but you can also relax on the flat rocks at one end, or rent a lounging chair at Same Same restaurant, which overlooks the beach. Despite some uneven reviews online, we had a wonderful lunch there, enjoying fresh seafood and cold rosé (the drink of choice in the south, often served over ice), with quick and friendly service and a fun atmosphere. If you prefer a snack to eat on the beach, there’s a little place directly across the road from the entrance to la plage, where we picked up decent toasted sandwiches and cold drinks. The view is beautiful and the water is refreshing with barely a hint of waves, making it great for kids. Eavesdropping on the sunbathers around us confirmed that this beach is a local favorite
Market day
There’s something so special about a market in the South of France, with piles of baskets and straw hats (I bought one and promptly lost it in a gust of wind the next day), fragrant pouches of lavender, handmade soap and gorgeous fresh produce. One stall holder was selling nothing but perfectly ripe melons while another kept her herbs fresh in the trickling fountain in Place de la République. It’s there on Wednesdays and Fridays and we picked up everything necessary for relaxed apéro hours on the balcony, including a selection of olives, a garlic dip that I still think about (and regret not asking for the recipe), charcuterie and cheese to nibble on, courgette flowers which we stuffed with ricotta and mint and lightly fried in our little French rental kitchen, and a loaf of freshly baked sourdough from a charming local baker. Take cash with you as most stalls don’t accept cards.
Bouillabaisse
Early each morning some of the local fishermen sell their catch directly from the back of their boats in the port, which is the perfect place to gather ingredients to make bouillabaisse, the traditional Provençal stew, originally made by Marseille fishermen to use the bony rockfish they were unable to sell to restaurants or markets. Saffron, one of the key ingredients, is also readily available in town and it’s the perfect holiday experience to relax with a glass of wine while it simmers away on the stove (the name is a mix of the Occitan words for boil and simmer). You can find Julia Childs’ recipe for it here but if you don’t rent a place with a kitchen you can book into one of the many local restaurants (avoid anywhere with pictures on the menu as those places are geared towards tourists) that offer it, such as La Vieille Auberge or Le Grand Bleu. Be sure to check out the daily price before ordering as it can be up to €60 per person, depending on the daily catch.
Cinema under the stars
In summer the local cinema regularly holds their Cinéma sous les étoiles (Cinema under the stars) evenings on the far side of the port. They set up an enormous screen and comfy seating so you can relax in the balmy weather while catching a film. It’s the perfect way to practice your French i.e. there are no subtitles. If you like popcorn it’s BYOP.
Sunset at le Bistrot de Nino
As the sun goes down in Cassis it reflects beautifully on the Cap Canaille, the highest sea cliff in France, which is famous for its remarkable reddish glow which intensifies as sun sets and the sky changes color. The best place to take in the view is at one of the outside tables at le Bistrot de Nino. Order a glass of local rosé (it’s what everyone else will be drinking) and admire the little sailboats a vendre, while your children sip on a diabolo menthe.
Wine tasting
It’s a common misconception that crème de cassis, the specialty liqueur made from blackcurrants, is made in Cassis, when it actually originated in Burgundy. However the Appellation d’Origine Protégée of Cassis does produce close to 1 million bottles of wine a year, with the whites the most renowned and making up 75% of the total production.
To celebrate the wines of the region, there are two wine festivals each year: Cassis Fête Son Vin in mid-May and Les Vendanges Étoilées (The Starry Grape Harvest) in September. A handful of the wineries can be visited on foot from town and have some of the most picturesque views you will ever see in a vineyard. Clos Sainte Magdeleine, Clos d’Albizzi, Château Fontcreuse and Domaine du Bagnol all offer tours but call ahead to confirm opening times and to see if reservations are required.
Ice Cream in the port
After dinner is the perfect time to pick up an ice cream, while the weather is still warm, families are out and about with kids up late and everyone is in a holiday mood. There are quite a few ice cream options but we particularly liked Maison Casalini (where my one year old daughter tried her very first ice cream last summer) and Amorino.
Le Petit Train
If there’s a little tourist train in a seaside town, you can be sure I’ll be on it. My family rolls their eyes and reluctantly follows me, but in the end everyone ends up enjoying it. The petit-train in Cassis starts in front of Le Grande Plage, the major beach behind the port, and winds up in the hills behind town, past stunning pastel coloured houses and glorious views. It’s also a nice way to get the lay of the land and pick up a little local knowledge along the way thanks to the on board commentary.
Hike to the Calanques
What drew me to Cassis in the first place was my friend’s photos of the Calanques (narrow, steep-walled limestone inlets) on instagram and I couldn’t believe the stunning cliffs and turquoise beaches were just a few hours away from where I lived.
Knowing how hot it would be in the middle of the day, my teenager and I set out to hike the trail to Calanque d’En Vau at 6am, while most people were still tucked up in bed (except my husband, who was definitely up and looking after the littles). We were almost immediately rewarded with breathtaking sunrise views as we approached Port Miou, a magnificent narrow harbor that’s one kilometer (about 2 miles) long and has about five hundred ships anchored at any one point.
A short but rocky walk took us on to Port Pin, a popular swimming beach surrounded by tree-lined cliffs, which is accessible for families (but not strollers) and would be a gorgeous place to spend the day.
From there, the trail to Calanque d’En Vau gets increasingly steep and at one point we were sure we had made a wrong turn as we scrambled down incredibly steep rocks, and I quietly pictured what my husband would say when the search party found us. But we were on the right track, and arrived just before the sun hit the small cove, with high cliffs towering on either side, and immediately refreshed ourselves by diving into the cold, clear water (don’t be surprised if the fish try and nibble your feet). By the time we hopped out and set up our towels the sun was streaming in and the water changed to shades of blue that I will never forget. On the hike back (take the option signposted ‘scenic route’ on the way back for the best views) we passed a few people who were regretting their footwear choices (you definitely need to wear running or hiking shoes) and the path was increasingly crowded. As we reached the entrance to the national park people were streaming in, and we were very happy with our choice to go so early.
Take a backpack with plenty of water and snacks as there is absolutely nothing on offer along the way, and bear in mind the track is often restricted, or closed, in summer due to the risk of wildfires; it was closed a few days while we were there so don’t leave it to the last day in case it becomes off-limits. There are also talks about implementing a ‘visitor pass’ system where you would need to book your hiking slot in advance for access so check with the tourist office if you’re planning a trip. I’m not one for strenuous activity but I cannot recommend this hike enough, and would even consider doing the two day long coastal walk from Marseilles to Cassis, stopping to sleep under the stars along the way.
Boat Trip
If you’d rather see the calanques from the sea then there are regular boat trips leaving from the port that visit 3, 5, 8 or 9 of them. Again I recommend going early as you will want to sit outside to take in the best views, shade is not guaranteed, and the boats can be very busy (there are also private tours available but that was out of our budget). Suitable for families and people with reduced mobility, the boats are a great way to access the outstanding natural beauty of the area (we did it twice).
There are also kayaks available for rent and it seemed like a very popular option, but we didn’t get the chance to try them out as our little kids can’t swim properly and don’t listen to instructions. So we gave them another ice cream, ordered more wine and waved as they paddled past.
Have you been to Cassis? Please share your thoughts and recommendations in the comments below for my next visit.
