March 2010 Archives

chervil salad1


You might have passed chervil by when shopping, thinking it was a wimpy version of parsley. The wispy, thin leaves don't look very tempting. And you might be tempted to overlook it, unaware of its powerful aroma that it lends to certain dishes. But if you've never had it, add a handful of chopped chervil to a salad. You'll wonder why you don't pick up a bunch more often.


chervil


Which was a position I was in last week, when for some reason, I saw nice bunches at the producteur stand my market for just one euro each, and decided to ask for them to add one to my basket at the last moment, before I paid. When I got home and unpacked everything, I was a bit stunned to see how huge the bunch actually was.

(I think I get special treatment, though, because I bring them cookies.)


vermicelli-like pasta moro pudding


I've had all three cookbooks from Moro in London stacked up in my apartment for about a year, and haven't made anything from them. They're very personal cookbooks, the recipes and photos invoking a time and place, with the food arcing between Moorish cooking and the foods of North Africa, along with the Middle East, nodding toward sustainability. I keep picking them up, leafing through them and looking at the lush, yet unfussy photos of food, but never tried any of the recipes.


orange flower water frying noodles


Their most recent book, Moro East, was the result of their growing their own food in their "allotment"; a place on the outskirts of London where 81 people tended their own gardens and foraged for foods. The book begins with the sad warning that by the time readers pick up the book, the bulldozers will have plowed the century-old gardens under to make way for the upcoming Olympics, in order to create a pathway between two stadiums.


French butter melting butter


One uses clarified butter (sometimes called 'drawn' butter) in places where you'll be frying something either for an extended period or over high heat. And for those times when you want the flavor of butter, rather than oil, you'll want to use clarified butter, which, unlike oil, can stand being cooked longer and to a higher temperature. Clarifying butter removes the milk solids and moisture, which makes this possible.


melting butter beurre doux


Many Indian cooks use ghee, which is similar, except it's usually been cooked longer to decrease the moisture and deepen the flavor, and sometimes is seasoned with tumeric, fenugreek, or another spice.

Berlin

103 comments - 03.24.2010
laugencroissants


A few things to know if you go to Berlin. Don't cross the street unless the crosswalk light is green (you'll likely get a scolding), hardly anywhere takes credit cards (cash works everywhere—and people are happy to give change), the coffee is great (so drink as much as you can, since you'll need it), and the city changes quickly, from being gray and bleak at one moment, changing into a sunny and inviting place just after you turn a corner.

Another thing to know is to remain on the constant lookout for laugencroissants, which I'll get to a little later.


schleusen krug berlin radio tower


I wasn't sure what to make of Berlin before I got there. I'd heard it was hip, perhaps a little wild, kinetic, and quite vibrant. I was only there for a few days, but I managed to ping from one side of the city to another, exploring the various districts and neighborhoods, and unlike a lot of other big cities, I found everyone to be relatively cool and not stressed out and frantic. Berliners seem to be trying to fit into their new skin, often appearing in different guises.

prunes and kumquats


Prunes are serious business in France and unlike Americans, it doesn't take any name-changing to get the French to eat them. Prune fans, like me, are partial to those from Agen, in Gascony, which are mi-cuit; partially-dried. Their flavor is as beguiling and complex as a square of the finest chocolate.


kumquats prunes in pot


Interestingly, the prunes cultivated in California are grafted from the same prunes grown in the southwest of France.

bleu de Termignon


One thing I've learned in France, is that if someone who's an expert tells you to eat something—you should eat it. (Except squid, of course.) When I lead tours, right before I place their hand on the bible, I make guests promise that if I tell them they have to try something, they will. It's not that I'm on commission, it's just I've sifted through a lot of stuff and it's not worth filling up on the bland when the extraordinary is within equidistant tasting distance.


bleu de Termignon


When my girlfriends Peggy Smith and Sue Conley, who make the wonderful cheeses of Cowgirl Creamery, were in town recently for the Salon du Fromage, they were surprised to be honored with a medaille along with an induction into the French Guilde des Fromagers.


cheese guild medal


I'd met Peggy way back around 1983, when I started working at Chez Panisse. She was a chef and I was a bit scared of her, standing over a large lamb carcass wielding a large, and very sharp knife, getting the beast ready to roast on the spit.

caramelizing bananas


My recent banana windfall gave me the chance to play around a bit with various banana ice cream combinations. Although I loved the taste of this one, frankly, I wasn't sure I should post the recipe.


banana ice cream  banana ice cream & chocolate sauce


Since bananas are such a natural partner for coconut, I reasoned, "Why use milk or cream when there's coconut milk? So I reached for a can of it. Continuing with that train I thought, I had a bag of jaggery, raw cane sugar that's used in Indian cuisine.


organic bananas


I'd bought the husky, ultra-dark sugar up near the gare du Nord, in the Indian and Sri Lankan neighborhood, for no other reason than I was attracted to its rich color and the aggressive scent that wafted through the bag when I pressed it against my nose. When I moved to Paris, I remember people telling me to avoid that neighborhood, that it wasn't safe. But it's become one of my favorite quartiers, mostly because of the lively ethnic communities that have settled there. (As well as being the home to the Paris chapter of the Hell's Angels.)

caramelized shallot chicken


I'm always surprised when people say that they don't have time to cook. I mean, aside from reproducing, physiologically, we don't really exist on this earth for any other reason. (Unless someone knows something that they're not telling me.) Feeding ourselves is really our most basic human need.

Now if someone said, "I don't have time to clean up afterward", then I can totally relate. I spend at least 40% of my life standing in front of a sink, washing dishes. When people ask if they can come and help me test recipes, I always say, "Bring rubber gloves!" And that's the last I hear from them.


caramelized shallot chicken


This is one of my very favorite, go-to dinners. It's incredibly easy and there's hardly any dishes to wash; just toss chicken pieces in olive oil, vinegar, soy sauce, and shallots in a baking dish. Season with salt and pepper, and pop it in the oven.

organic bananas Banana & Chocolate Chip Upside-Down Cake


I'm happy to be taking care of two things with this recipe. One is that about a week ago, I was late to the market, arriving near the end, when everyone was packing up to leave. Scanning quickly to see what I could procure in a short amount of time, I passed by a stand where one fellow lorded over an enormous pile of organic bananas, and was hollering, "Un euro, deux kilos!...Un euro—deux kilos!"

Since that's roughly a buck for a little over four pounds of fruit, I stopped right there, and took as many as I could carry off his hands. And then, he threw another bunch in my basket after I paid. So I had a whole bunch of bananas...five, to be precise...which was great. But I was a little concerned about having what looked to be like around fifty bananas for just one person.


Banana & Chocolate Chip Upside-Down Cake Banana & Chocolate Chip Upside-Down Cake


Once home, as they started ripening during the week, seemingly all at once, a mild panic set in. So I called into service a recipe from my archives, one of my all-time favorites: Banana and Chocolate Chip Upside-Down Cake.

baking cookies


When I was speaking at the Blogher Food Conference last year, one of the organizers was telling us that on the last day of each month, she carries out what she calls E-mail Amnesty Day. On that day, she deletes all her e-mail in her Inbox, then issues an all-points-bulletin to everyone she knows that if there was anything important in there, to e-mail her again. She swore that it drastically reduced her e-mail and any meltdowns one might have trying to answer it all.

I thought that was an interesting idea, and when I looked around my apartment the other day, (which wasn't half as scary as my Inbox), I realized that I had a huge miscellany of half-bags and jars of stuff left over from various baking projects, odds and ends that I was saving, which I said to myself (at the time) that I'd certainly use in the future. And this weekend, I thought it was high time to do something about it and get rid of them all, to do an exhaustive, clean sweep and get rid of everything.


kit-kat bars ingredients for compost cookies


What also prompted the purge was when I read where Adam made something called "Compost Cookies", a recipe which includes anything you wish to dump in it, from chocolate chips to Fritos.


bergamots


Like Pistachio Gelato or Polenta Ice Cream, this recipe might fall into the category of "Things You Can't Make" for some of you.

Yes, bergamots aren't something one runs across everyday in the supermarket, or even at greengrocers. But mid-winter, depending on where you live, you just might get lucky and happen across some, as I recently did. Twice! (Although the second time took a bit of moxie.)


bergamot marmalade


There's conflicting information what a bergamot actually is, but it's definitely a member of the citrus family and most consider it to be a relative of the bitter orange, which might have been mated with a lemon at some point in its dubious past.

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