Behind the Scenes in Paris – Journees du Patrimoine

Hello – it’s Emily. For those of you that haven’t heard of me, I normally help David behind the scenes with some things on the blog. As a Paris local, I wanted to share with you a very special weekend that my family and I look forward to each year. I hope that you will get the chance to experience it too!

-Emily


Journees du Patrimoine 21-22nd September 2019

As a city that welcomes nearly 18 million visitors every year, Paris clearly has a lot to offer. With over 2000 monuments and more than 200 museums, there is always something to explore. But Paris also has many places where history is made and art and culture are celebrated, that simply cannot accommodate visitors.

Behind the beautiful doors across the city there are many secrets, gardens, passageways, and places of great interest are normally inaccessible to visitors. However, as the French take their heritage very seriously and in the spirit of liberté, égalite, fraternité (liberty, equality, brotherhood), once a year, doors across Paris swing open to let you in, behind the scenes, for a closer view of the beauty and history inside some of the most famous buildings in the world. 

The Journées du Patrimoine (European Heritage Days), were first organized by the French Ministry of Culture and Communication over 30 years ago and are now held on the 3rd weekend of September every year, in Paris, other regions of France, in addition to being adopted by other European countries as well. Activities range from an escape game in the Gare Saint-Lazare to a family treasure hunt in a tropical aquarium at the Palais de la Porte Dorée. Workshops, visits and guided tours are available (usually free of charge) allowing you to experience a different perspective by going inside many normally off-limits historic sites, iconic monuments and attractions. 

The only negative thing I can say about this special event is that there is too much to see and no way to do it all in one weekend. A new website available this year aims to help with that, giving real-time information on the attendance and waiting times for many of the major attractions, so you can better plan your time. Further information can be found here (in English, but the site is auto-translated, so some of the wording may be unusual). 

Places Not to Miss (many of these are only open to the public during this one special weekend).

1. The Élysée Palace

This is the official residence of the President of the French Republic and is considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Paris. During the visit, it is possible to tour the office of the President, the grand room where State receptions are held, the court of honor where the President welcomes his foreign counterparts, and the surrounding gardens. In previous years over 20,000 people have visited during the weekend, with waiting times up to 8 hours. From 2019 you can now register up to 5 people on their website, which will be followed up by an official invitation and a specific time slot. If you are planning to visit, it is advisable to take as little as possible; security is quite thorough.  

55 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
Métros: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Madeleine

2. Hôtel Matignon

The home of the Prime Minister, in the 7th arrondissement, is often cited as one of the most luxurious government buildings in the world, and is where many of the most important decisions in French political life are made. You can also explore the three hectares of outdoor space, the largest private garden in Paris. Expect long queues so take plenty of water as you may end up waiting in the sun, and September can occasionally still be quite warm.

57 rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris
Métro: Rue du Bac

3. Hôtel de Ville

Paris’ City Hall presents a series of workshops and exhibitions celebrating Parisian heritage. Visitors can tour its impressive reception rooms, the Council Chamber of Paris, the library and the Mayor’s office, followed by some barbe à papa (cotton candy) and a ride on the merry-go-round in the square outside.

3 rue Lobau, 75004 Paris
Métro: Hôtel de Ville

3. Bercy

In 2019 the Ministry of Economy and Finance (with 42kms, 26 miles, of corridors!), set on the banks of the Seine is celebrating its 30th anniversary and has devised a special program including demonstrations by their customs sniffer dogs, a tour of the beehives (rumoured to have needed to be replaced after the helipad was used during filming of Mission: Impossible – Fallout), a zip line over the main courtyard (from the terrace of the Hôtel des ministres) and abseiling along the building Vauban. You can finish your visit via the Door of Honor, the biggest door in Europe, consisting of 50 bronze panels adorned with sculptures representing the four seasons.

139 Rue de Bercy, 75012 Paris
Métro: Bercy

5. Bank of France

This is not your average bank. The Golden Gallery is truly impressive, and along with the ceremonial salons, is the highlight of this visit. Expect explanations on the manufacture, printing and authenticating of french banknotes and the history of currency and banking in France, presented in an engaging way.

31 rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs, 75001 Paris
Métro: Palais Royale-Musée du Louvre

6. Académie Française 

The French Academy is the French council for matters pertaining to the French language. Established in 1635 the Académie consists of forty members, known informally as les immortels (the immortals, which gives you some idea how important they are). The body acts as an official authority on the French language and have the task of preventing the Anglicization of the French language, responsible for creating new French words such as ordinateur (computer), logiciel (software), and courriel (e-mail).  You will have the opportunity to visit the famous Coupole, the halls of the five Academies, its two libraries, the main courtyard, and its new auditorium.

23 quai de Conti, 75006 Paris
Métro: Odéon

7. Sénat

The Sénat is the upper house of the French Parliament. Housed inside the Palais du Luxembourg, it represents the territorial collectivities of the Republic and French citizens living abroad. Under the watchful eye of the Republican Guards, you can tour through the impressive galleries and stop by the desk of Gérard Larcher, President of the Senate and first in the line of succession to the Presidency of the French Republic, making him the second most important man in France.  

15 Rue de Vaugirard, 75006 Paris
Métro: Odéon

8. Assemblée Nationale

The National Assembly, on the banks of the Seine, is the lower house of the Parliament of France. This is the chance to visit the Palais-Bourbon where members have been sitting since 1798 as well as the Hôtel de Lassay, seat of the Presidency of the National Assembly, including access to the Salle des Séances and the Library. 

128 rue de l’Université, 75007 Paris
Métro: Invalides or Assemblée Nationale

9. Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Headquarters

A visit to the OECD provides the opportunity to discover the historical past of the organization and its role in international cooperation in facing global challenges. During a visit to the conference center, the garden and the castle, visitors are able to discover how the OECD is helping to shape the future, from space technology transfers to the potential of blockchain.

2 Rue André Pascal, 75016 Paris
Métro: Avenue Henri Martin

10. Kering

One for fashion lovers, Kering, home to labels including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen, invites visitors to discover the hidden gardens of the former Hôpital Laennec and enjoy artworks from the incredible Pinault Collection and creations from the Balenciaga archives.

40 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
Metro: Vaneau

Bonus: Foreign Embassies

The Embassies of Sweden, Hungary, Italy, Austria, China, Finland, Chech republic, Switzerland, Brazil, Afghanistan, and Portugal are also open with special events celebrating their own national heritage. Check their websites for times and events. 

 

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11 comments

  • September 19, 2019 3:04pm

    I have been to the Banque de France. I was amused by the very proper older couples, likely residents of the 16e, who got on all fours to examine the undersides of the antiques.
    Did a guided tour in the Marais another time. Some amazing stuff is hidden away. Tour members (French) got into arguments with the guide about which king did what. The French know their history! Yet another time saw the room on Place de la Concorde where Marie-Antoinette awaited the guillotine. Reply

    • Emily Cunningham
      September 19, 2019 7:14pm

      Sounds like you have seen some of the best history France has to offer! Reply

  • susan gortva
    September 19, 2019 5:22pm

    that library, and ceiling. very thoughtfully done Reply

  • Allison S
    September 19, 2019 6:10pm

    What a great and informative post for those of us who aren’t in France! (And wish we could be) Possibly you can write additional posts sometime? Reply

    • Emily Cunningham
      September 25, 2019 11:13am

      Hi Allison, thanks for the lovely words and the encouragement! Emily Reply

  • MargC
    September 19, 2019 7:56pm

    Thank you David and Emily for this timely reminder of the Journées du Patrimoine I will be in Perpignan so I have some extra special things to do that I didn’t expect. Reply

  • BarbaraD
    September 20, 2019 5:16am

    Emily, I love your writing! Can you tell us a little about your background? Where did you grow up, etc. Reply

    • Emily Cunningham
      September 25, 2019 11:12am

      Hi Barbara, Thanks for the kind words. I am originally Australian (from Brisbane), then spent 11 years living in London before I moved to Paris, married a French man and the rest is history! We have two children and a little sausage dog and live in central Paris. Emily Reply

      • BarbaraD
        September 25, 2019 8:39pm

        Wow! That is so cool. I’m so happy you answered. Thanks. Reply

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