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I love my trusty DSLR camera, but it weighs a ton, and lugging it even around my kitchen when I’m baking means I’m not as nimble as I’d like to be. (I’m a baker, not a photographer, as several people noted regarding my previous post.) So I treated myself to a new camera and am getting to work on making the pictures here more casual. Once I figure out what all those dials, knobs, and levers on it, that is.

That doesn’t mean I’m going anywhere, although a photographer friend spent a few hours with me on the phone trying to figure out how to take a picture with it. So it might be a while before I get it right. In the meantime, I’m going to tinker around with it as I continue to dive into some of the wonderful cookbooks that have been waiting in the wings.

One at the top of my list, and cookbook pile, is by Martin Philip. He opens his book, Breaking Bread: A Baker’s Journey Home in 75 Recipes, with a confession that he started working on it with “no structure, no writing experience.” In doing so, he was free to go where it took him.

We corresponded before the book came out, when he asked me for a quote for the book jacket, and when the preview copy arrived, not only were the recipes and photos especially enticing, but when he writes (the book is divided into ‘chapters’ of his life), I can feel the passion in his voice prominently when he’s talking about baking. It didn’t hurt that he’s also the head baker at King Arthur Flour. But I like people who take different paths and that don’t necessarily follow what’s expected of them.

Those who want people to “stick to food” might be disappointed that his story begins in New York, where he worked in the world of finance. (If he “stuck to finance,” I wouldn’t have this great baking book in my hands, for example.) His path from banking to baking wasn’t straight, and who he is (like who we all are), is complicated, and compelling.

Baking is a more expressive than other types of cooking, especially bread baking, which is Martin’s specialty nowadays. Breaking Bread has several personal essays about his life, and how he got to where he is. I loved the slightly unorthodox mix of recipes in his book, which ranges from Molasses Pie and Butter Biscuits, culled from his childhood in the Ozark Mountains, to bagels, pain de seigle (rye bread) and chocolate-orange muffins, which reflect his time in New York City.

In addition to having worked in the world of finance, Martin was also a professional opera singer and an artist, as well as traveling to teach underprivileged, and people in under-served countries, how to bake. Thank goodness he didn’t stick to just one thing.

I haven’t been to the King Arthur bakery, but Martin’s breads look spectacular. Deep, earthy loaves, dusted with flour and grains, and baked bien cuit (well-cooked), just the kinds of breads that I crave. I don’t bake bread, but those of you who do, or want to give it a try, will be thrilled to have such a well-written book, with recipes in metric, volumetric, and ratios. (You go, Martin! That’s like writing three books…)

I had a few recipes bookmarked, but was most intrigued by these seeded crackers. The dough comes together easily, and you don’t need any special equipment, not even a stand mixer, to make them.

You can, of course, roll these in any shape that you want. I played with a few, from diamonds to circles, using a cookie cutter. It’s best to work with well-chilled dough and to roll the cookies on a wooden countertop if you have one, which help keep the dough from sticking.

That said, I’m rather partial to a little section of my kitchen where the countertop is stainless. (Put that in your Do As I Say, not Do As I do, file.) But like using my old camera, I’m used to working with it. It’s also by the window so I can look outside and wonder if I missed my calling as an opera singer, while I roll pastry.

[Anyone who has heard me sing probably already knows the answer to that one.]

Because the light changes every minute during the winter and quickly disappears by mid-afternoon, it was hard balancing the colors as things changed faster than I could figure out what dial to turn on my camera.

It didn’t help that I couldn’t stop from nibbling on the crackers, either dipping them into artichoke tapenade, which I ramped up with some basil, or just breaking one in half, and snacking on it. Is it just me, or do I break something like a cookie in half, thinking I’ll only eat half, but find myself circling back to the other half (sometimes, breaking that one in half), finally realizing that it’s hopeless and finish the whole d*mn thing, which I probably should have done in the first place?

So many questions to ponder. In the meantime, I’m working my way through Breaking Bread, eyeing the pain de mie, wondering if I can get one of his Pizza Napoletanas delivered, and admiring the Powderbrot, dense loaves of bread packed with pepitas, oats, millet, teff, and something called rye chops (cracked rye berries), and enjoying the stories, which crunching on these crackers…one seedy bite at a time.

Seeded Multigrain Crackers

Adapted from Breaking Bread by Martin Philip
Feel free to use any combination of seeds that you want. I made a mix that was mostly sesame, poppy, and flax, with a generous sprinkling of caraway, along with flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Other possibilities include cumin or fennel seeds, black onion seeds, and dried onions. Martin suggested a few different types of flour to add to the whole wheat and all-purpose flours. I used buckwheat, but he suggested, in addition to the ones I've listed in the recipe, millet or lentil flour. Although the recipe calls for instant dry yeast, I'm pretty sure you can use active dry yeast. Check here for more information on
.For baking the crackers, it's best to rely on visual clues rather than leaning heavily on absolute baking times. The crackers are done when they are well-bronzed across the top, so they may take more or less time than indicated. The edges or tips may get a little darker than the centers, especially if you're cutting them in diamond shapes, but they'll taste just fine.
Servings 50 crackers
  • 3/4 cup (90g) whole wheat flour
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (70g) all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup (70g) another type of flour, such as buckwheat, rye, or cornmeal (see headnote)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • big pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon dry instant yeast
  • 1/2 cup (125ml) water
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons melted butter, salted or unsalted
  • 3/4 cup (105g) mixed seeds, (see headnote)
  • flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • In a large mixing bowl, mix together the whole wheat, all-purpose and whatever other type of flour you wish to use, along with the sugar, salt, cayenne and yeast. Add the water and melted butter and mix until the dough comes together in a shaggy mass. Knead the dough with your hands a few times, either in the bowl or on the counter, until it comes together and is relatively smooth. Divide the dough in two, shape each half into a rectangle and place them on a plate. Cover, and refrigerate for one to two hours. (The dough can be refrigerated up to 24 hours in advance.)
  • Preheat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
  • Remove one rectangle of cracker dough from the refrigerator. (Leave the other rectangle in; the dough is easier to roll if well-chilled.) Place a good amount (about 1/4 cup/30g) of the seed mixture on a counter. Sprinkle with sea salt and black pepper and press the dough into the seeds. Turn the dough over and press the other side of the dough into the seeds. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough into a square approximately 12 x 12-inches (30 x 30cm), rotating and turning the dough over as you roll, to prevent sticking, adding more seeds (as well as a sprinkle of salt and pepper) when it starts to stick. Both sides of the dough should be well-riddled with seeds.
  • Cut the dough into crackers either using a cookie cutter, or into rectangles or diamonds with a knife, and place them on the prepared baking sheet. Gather any scraps and reroll those to cut out for additional crackers. Bake the crackers until well-browned across the top, about 8 to 10 minutes, turning the baking sheet midway during baking. Let crackers cool. Roll, cut, and bake the remaining rectangle of dough the same way you did the first one.

Notes

Serving: Serve the crackers along with a favorite dip, such as Hummus, Artichoke Tapenade, Eggplant Caviar, Baba Ganoush, Olive-Fig Tapenade, White Bean Dip, Tarama, or alongside a cheese platter, or with soup.
Storage: The crackers will keep in an air-tight container at room temperature for several weeks. If they lose their crispness, they can be refreshed on a baking sheet for a few minutes in a moderate oven.

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70 comments

    • Taste of France

    What do you mean, you’re not a photographer? I think your photos are amazing.
    This recipe will be a boon in my quest to eliminate (well, reduce) processed food. Not just the crackers, but that dip has my mouth watering. An excellent addition to apéro time.

    • Ann Milliman

    Wonderful post this morning, David. We have a home near Norwich, VT., where Martin bakes at King Arthur. You must visit KA next time you’re in New England. You’ll love the list of classes, the cafe and store. Bakers in my family have enjoyed courses there, and it’s where we buy all of our flours, etc. I’ll happily add Martin’s book to our cookbook library, which has many of your books, too.

    • PF

    Nice recipe, with so may potential variations. I can see substituting lard for the butter, though. Not the nasty hydrogenated supermarket stuff, but we’re lucky to have a number of heritage breed pig farmers here who sell pork products locally.

    Plus now I want to buy the book.

    • Liz B.

    Longtime reader, first time caller, as they say.

    Just a note to let you know how much I appreciate your voice and work. I love to cook and bake but as a busy working mom I don’t often get to pursue this passion as much as I would like. Your posts allow me to indulge my fantasies of one day moving back to Paris and cooking full time. Your site is consistently a bright spot in my day. Please accept my thanks.

    • Hannah

    I will try and bake a guten free version of this! Yum!

      • Claudia

      Love the recommendations for alternate flours. Hannah, there’s a Bon Apetit seedy oat cracker recipe online that’s easily adaptable to gluten free baking.

      • Pru

      Can you post how you go with the gluten free version, please. Would like to do the same.

      • Em

      I’d LOVE to hear how you make a gf version, too. I’ll play around and see if I can find a gf way in the meantime and will share if I find a good solution!

    • Anne

    Thank you for this…I’d been on the fence about buying this book but you’ve convinced me. And I second the suggestion you make time to visit KA in Norwich–great fun, and a lovely part of the world.

    • Leslie Freeman

    You ARE a fantastic photographer! Not to mention a great writer and cook. I am nearly finished with L’Appart and have loved every word! What a great story and some darn good recipes as well. Thanks you, David. And yes, you need to visit King Arthur Flour in Vermont. So well worth it!

    • Timothee

    Quel appareil de photo?

    • Tom Conway

    HI David, on a side note, what model/make is your new camera?

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      It’s a Sony a6000 mirrorless. It’s more compact than my other camera, but the kit lens, I don’t think, is all that great and I should get a better lens. (Which I’m saving up for!)

        • Tom Conway

        Thanks David, I really appreciate it. I’m looking for a new camera and there’s a sea of equipment to swim through. Thanks also for your generous recipes and funny stories. Buddy and I are big fans.

          • David
          David Lebovitz

          Several photographer friends told me that mirrorless is the way to go. I was trying to decide between the Sony Alpha and the Fuji XT-2. The Fuji was nearly 3x the price and wasn’t as small, but I know a few professionals that have that one, and really like it. The cameras are a lot more compact (although the Sony is a lot more so, but as with anything new, there’s a learning curve.

        • Paul P Eggermann

        David,
        I also gave up my huge and heavy DSLR for a mirrorless Sony NEX-7, which is a precursor to the a6000. It didn’t take long to get used to the different controls. The kit lens is pretty good and you seem to be getting the hang of the different depth of field aspects. Keep up the good work.
        A bientot.

          • David
          David Lebovitz

          With my DSLR, I had to start using a tripod because the retina screens weren’t so forgiving on photos. But it was awkward and unnatural to have to set up a tripod while I was cooking. (And my camera almost got knocked over a few times when it got in the way of something I was pulling out of the oven or stirring on the stove.) The Alpha has image stabilization and a photographer friend told me I could push the ISO up to 1000 so I could shoot in the lower winter light of Paris. (I’m still experimenting with that. My first tests didn’t quite pan out as anticipated, but he’s an extraordinary professional photographer, so likely has the “touch.”) The non-kit lens is a lot faster so I may spring for that. Thanks for your encouragement!

    • Angela Billows

    You don’t know how much I’ve been meaning to get a recipe to make these crackers! There are lots of artisinal varieties to buy in the UK, but realised before Christmas, when I was buying cheese, that the French only eat cheese with bread, they don’t eat crackers! All they have is wierd cheezy things to eat with their aperos! Will get rolling tout suite! Merci

    • David
    David Lebovitz

    Leslie, Ann and Anne: Hmmm…sounds like we need to make a field trip! : )

    (And Anne, it really is a terrific book. The pictures are great and while there are a number of recipes for loaves of bread that are a little over my reach, there are a number of others, like this one, that are very straightforward.)

    Hannah: If you do, let us know how they turn out…and what you did.

    Liz B: Thanks. I like writing and shooting pics for the blog although blogging has changed in the last few years, and people perhaps have different expectations. I enjoy sharing recipes and writing here, and glad you do, too.

    • Rosemary

    I won a week cooking class at King Arthur’s Cooking School, it has a café with wonderful breads and rolls. While I was at class, my husband ate lunch there everyday, and gained 5 pounds. If Martin supplies the breads for the café, this book is a definite purchase. Thanks!

    • Molly F.C.

    Hi David. I love your photography! I appreciate spelling bleu cheese as exactly that too but I digress. Pardon this question if an answer is found in your blog. Is there a particular frozen puff pastry that you like? I’ve made my own a few times with mixed results. I don’t care for the grocery store brand whose initials are P.F. because it tastes chemically to me. Maybe there’s something wrong with my palate. Thank you!

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Thanks! I think I am a holdover from the 70’s and 80’s, when it was cool or sophisticaed to say bleu cheese :)

      I don’t have experience with frozen puff pastry in the U.S. People like Dufour, but I haven’t tried it. I think they sell it at Whole Foods, but not sure.

      (A while back Serious Eats did a post/taste test on the best frozen puff pastry, comparing it with P.F.)

      • Jane

      I use Aussie Bakery puff pastry from Whole Foods and it is FAR superior to PF !

    • Allison J

    Hi David, Your photos are quite lovely!
    When a photo brings out a strong desire to bake the item, it’s done it’s job, and yours definitely do. I totally agree with Molly on the Bleu issue. Frankly, I would tend to ignore those who love to criticize.
    Any hints on your ingredients for the avo tapenade? Thanks!

    • Deepti Bhogle

    These look perfect! Will try these this weekend!

    • Terry

    I love your photographs, too, and I have been thinking about finding a good home made cracker recipe for a week – you’ve nudged me into making these now. Thanks!

    • Pam Stoesser

    Ceux-ci ont l’air délicieux! Je vieux les faire!

    • Deborah

    I agree with many other commenters – your photos are wonderful (and nearly always make me hungry).
    I too break crackers and cookies in half – but I do so I don’t wolf down the whole thing *quite* so quickly. Not sure if that actually works, but it’s what I do…

    • Karen Gilmore

    I can’t believe you’ve never been to King Arthur Flour before! The shopping! the eating! the classes! You could teach a class there, it’s an amazing place. When I lived in Boston I would drive there a couple times a to buy their flour in 50 lb sacks. ( at least that was my excuse)

    • Cheryl Sassman

    David, I’ve read your blog and bought your books for years and never comment, although I enjoy reading all of them. However, seeing the metal dish with two handles in this post, leads me to ask a question; I bought mine in the US at an antique store and it’s stamped “Made in France”. I love it and want to know more about it, if possible. Also, I just finished reading L’appart this weekend and enjoyed your story of renovation in Paris.

    • Marsha

    Thanks for the candied citron recipe. If you are in SFV, come over for some free citron fruit.

    • Mardi (eat. live. travel. write.)

    For someone who claims to be still learning how to use their camera (I bought a mirrorless – Fuji – a couple of years ago and love it!), these are pretty darned good photos! Also, now I want crackers. Oh and that cookbook.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      As with most cameras, it’s usually about the lens, too. The technology has gotten better over the years but the learning curve is usually steep. I know my “old” camera very well, but am starting from zero again. (The other secret is to have good light. Paris has lovely light, but it changes, and goes away really fast, in the winter.)

    • Cyndy

    These look delicious. Next we expats need a home recipe for Carraway Rye Triscuits!

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      We’d have to learn how to weave all those strands of whole wheat : )

        • Cyndy

        Ha! You’re right. Also, the final answer to Jeopardy a day ago was Triscuits. The clue was that they’ve been around since 1903 and part of their name is derived from the fact that they are baked three times.

        I’ll buy the box while in the US!

    • gfy

    I love homemade crackers! Taste so much better and wholesome ingredients only! These look great. I am tempted to use homemade blend of ‘everything’ spice, like the kind on bagels!

    • Elizabeth McCrary

    I thought everybody knew the calories leak out of broken crackers (and cookies, and my cat’s kitty treats – at least that’s what I tell her – and, and, and … )

    • phyllis

    One time I got on a jag to make crackers. I think I was moving and had to get rid of the varieties of flours because everything was going into storage first. Packing was so stressful that making crackers every nite was therapeutic. They work really well with no leavening, no yeast or baking powder. I liked making them in a sheet on a pizza stone then breaking them up by hand. They’re very forgiving too. Flour and water and a drizzle of oil and 10-15 minutes in a hot oven and you’ve got crackers.

    • DH

    Why is yeast called for, but no proving of the dough? What is the purpose of the yeast if it doesn’t make the dough rise? Thanks!

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I was wondering that myself and sent a message to Martin, and will report back. My take is that baking in a professional bakery, he reaches into the yeast tub and sprinkles a little in to give it a bit of a “lift.” The dough is sort of proofed for a few hours in the refrigerator, but doesn’t rise. Sometimes people use a little baking powder in crackers to give them a lift instead.

        • Martin Philip

        Hi all! Thanks, David for the excellent blog (including the gorgeous pictures!).
        I think the yeast does give a little boost–if the dough is mixed with a DDT of ~76F (that’s the target dough temperature after mixing) fermentation will begin and carry on until the temperature drops. I would guess that a chemical leavener could work–or, one could even swap out a portion of the flour and liquid, and use sourdough culture for another flavor option. Crackers are such diverse and wonderful vehicles for flavors and seeds–even the GF route is possible.
        Happy baking!
        Martin Philip

        • DH

        Thanks so much David!

    • Patricia

    Just made these crackers. Excellent recipe and very easy. I used a mixture of flax, sesame, black onion seed, fennel and cumin seed. Thanks David for the recommendation,want the book now.

    • Fiona Isaacs

    Quick question – which whole wheat flour brand do you buy in Paris. My husband gets bring me back some from Waitrose in the UK but i need a good source here. Many thanks
    PS we both really enjoyed your L’Appart!

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      Fiona: I don’t buy a specific brand but I get my whole wheat flour from a natural food store, like Biocoop or Bio C’ Bon.

      (Glad you liked the book, too!)

    • sillygirl

    When we are in Paris we go to Carrefors (? spelling) and get the seeded crackers they sell since there is no way I can make my own recipe in a hotel. I think they are in the Bio section – haven’t seen them hat the Monoprix. Also saw them in San Sebastian.

    • Diane

    Thank you, David, for your thoughtful commentary and for making it so easy to print the recipe! Looks like this weekend will be crackers!

    • Hannah

    There’s a very similar version of that artichoke tapenade on Smitten Kitchen! I make it often when having guests over (so easy and it stores well). I secretly hope there are leftovers which I heat up with tomatoes and more garlic, toss with spaghetti, and top with tons of pecorino or parmesan. Delightful! I also think these crackers look super great and will be trying them.

    • witloof

    This recipe looks great. I am always looking for treats that will travel and stay good for a few days.

    All of the seeds suddenly made me very homesick for Berkeley and SemiFreddi’s seeded baguettes.

    • Gabrielle

    These look so good, seem like fun to pull together, and I’ve been thinking the last few days that I need to make myself some snacks. Plus crackers. Who doesn’t love em? Talk about timing!

    • Sylvie

    Great pictures and looking forward to trying the recipe.

    • Parisbreakfast

    Thank you for this! I once tried to use the ingredients off the Carrefour cracker package…quelle disastre. The French don’t seem to care much for crackers or seeds, except as outside decoration on bread…I have yet to figure this out since they love everything ‘croustillant’. Loving L’Appart! Your 1st apartment is like where I live.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      What’s interesting is that there doesn’t seem to be a catch-all word for “crackers” in French. The closest I’ve seen are biscuits apéritif, but sometimes they’re called biscuits salés. But often they’re just called les crackers, too
      : )

    • Linn

    I recently discovered the little round organic Mary Gone crackers made from brown rice, quinoa, and seeds and have found copy cat recipes online but haven’t tried them yet. I have made a few cracker recipes though and like them so much better than store bought. Elizabeth Prueitt has an interesting recipe in Tartine All Day that I’m dying to try too — after I make yours. Thank David!

    • Linn

    Does anyone know the shelf life of Dr. Oetker instant yeast? I can’t find an expiration date on the package.

    • Evelyn

    As perfect as the recipe sounds, I have to try adapting this to be GF, or risk my husband feeling left out!

    • Karen

    I lived in Norwich some 14 years ago. My apartment was literally across the street from King Arthur. Absolute heaven! I won’t tell you how much weight I gained from my daily visits.

    • SusanS

    I made these yesterday with cornmeal as the 3rd flour, plus sesame and poppy seeds, and they are (or were; they’ve all been eaten) very tasty, especially with a smear of goat cheese. It’s important to bake them until they’re about the color or David’s photo or they’ll be tough, but you can put them back in the oven to bake a little more and they’ll be fine.

    • Patricia

    Loved the story, the book (already bought) and the photographs. My son went to chef school in Montpelier, VT and we took a road trip to KA. I bought 20 pounds of flour because it wasn’t available in Kansas in 1999. I was pulled over by airport security and my bag examined (pre terrorist days) was deemed too heavy. When I said it was flour. The guard asked where are you taking this flour? I said Kansas. He laughed and said don’t they have enough wheat out there in Kansas? I replied probably Kansas wheat in there, but it’s all in the mix. He shook his head. He, a native Vermonter, had never heard of KA and I had. Now you can get KA flour everywhere, including Walmart.

    Have you heard of the novel Sourdough? It’s a giant Valentine with tongue in cheek about the intersection of San Francisco food craze and technology…and, eventually true love baked up! A fun read.

    • Cece Noll

    The crackers look great but I was constantly distracted by the fresh, green artichoke tapenade!

    • Gavrielle

    These look amazing! I love Martin’s suggestion to swap sourdough culture for the yeast, and thanks also to the commenter who makes crackers in a sheet and then breaks them up – I’m going to try both.

    • Mary McC

    Oh, guidance please—how thin should I try to make these? I had some very thin ones and then there were ones just a little thicker that puffed up in the middle, so clearly there’s a sweet spot.

      • David
      David Lebovitz

      I didn’t measure the thickness/thinness, but rolled each half to the dimensions in the recipe, which will make the dough the same thinness as mine. With all those seeds, it’s likely each cracker won’t be the same thickness (mine weren’t) and I like when some puffed up – those got extra-crispy!

    • Caroline

    David, what’s the purpose of the yeast in this recipe? It doesn’t get a chance to raise the dough.

      • Caroline

      Oops sorry. I see the answer above.

    • Moni

    Very tasty! Love them and they taste just perfect!

    • Patricia Davis

    Thats amazing I posted some sourdough crackers not to much before this post. They do look lovely with yeast too.
    Patricia

    • P Davis

    Sorry I posted information not on your policy. I assume you can delete it. This policy information should be available before posting. thank you.

    Okay to post related information and links in the comments. Anything that adds to the discussion, it’s more than welcome, including people trying the recipe or discussing similar recipes. The comment policy is noted/linked just above the comment entry field, where it says ‘please read the comment policy.’ :) – david

      • James

      My crackers were too dry. The dough was like a hockey puck and nearly impossible to roll out. The seeds did not stick, and they could certainly use more oil. I’m going to add 1/4 c water and delete butter and use 1/2 c olive oil. Also didn’t enjoy the large pinch of chili. I do enjoy heat but this just seemed unnecessary, perhaps I just like my crackers more neutral.

A

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